Removed Secondaries and Clean Intake manifold

[smufguy]

Today i decided to clean the inside of my intake manifold and get some new gaskets on it and in the process remove my secondaries and its diaphram. Also i had to change my Carb dist bracket to the efi Distributor bracket to sturdy up my efi dist. Once i opened up the intake manifold, it was horrible inside. gave it a spray of the regular Carb Cleaner and all that gunk shit just came out. The only thing i can think of is that the Blow up is getting worse or it just caked up inside. Also the valvetrain was pretty damn clean for a motor with 194K miles on it. I was suprised that it was much cleaner than the pics i have seen here or in the junkyard. Here are the pics

Valve train after i opened the valve cover, pretty clean except for the dark oil

http://img123.exs.cx/img123/6154/00000527ry.th.jpg (http://img123.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img123&image=00000527ry.jpg)

Removing secondaries, Dirty

http://img123.exs.cx/img123/2746/00000541kn.th.jpg (http://img123.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img123&image=00000541kn.jpg)

Removed Secondaries and Cleaned

http://img108.exs.cx/img108/5109/00000598nh.th.jpg (http://img108.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img108&image=00000598nh.jpg)

Dirty second half of manifold

http://img123.exs.cx/img123/2792/00000533lr.th.jpg (http://img123.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img123&image=00000533lr.jpg)

Clean second half of manifold

http://img123.exs.cx/img123/199/00000571rz.th.jpg (http://img123.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img123&image=00000571rz.jpg)

Clean Top half of manifold

http://img123.exs.cx/img123/3746/00000583ul.th.jpg (http://img123.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img123&image=00000583ul.jpg)

[myaccord7]

looks good

[HondaBoy]

if you've never cleaned those parts before, i'm thinking those are original parts off the efi doner car, then that is quite clean. seeing that it has that many miles, its pretty clean for its life span. do you notice any better performance after the cleaning? maybe things like better throtal response?

[smufguy]

thanks for the comment. The motor is my old one from my carb car, the intake was from the junkyard. The inside of the top half was coated with cacked up blow by near the cyl 1 and 2 ports. the throttle did seem a lot smoother since i did clean the sensor tip of the IAT sensor also. More than anything, i mean the difference in power was not obvious and could be close to nill, but having the plate not be there, defenitely has to do something with the way air goes into these ports now.

[A20A1]

you should have removed the shaft too and then filled the holes with QUICKSTEEL or JB-WELD

[Strugglebucket]

you should have removed the shaft too and then filled the holes with QUICKSTEEL or JB-WELD
the whole assembly comes out together. you can remove the spacer and then bolt the manifold back up without it, i think that's what he did.

[smufguy]

the whole assembly comes out together. you can remove the spacer and then bolt the manifold back up without it, i think that's what he did.

lol, i knew someone would say that. Well i tried it and it wont fit the IAC was big enough to hit the manifold leaving about a quarter of an inch or space. Look at this pic u know what i am talking about. so unless someone disables the IAC and removes it from the manifold, the top half would not go flush with the bottom.

http://img129.exs.cx/img129/9436/00000551nw.th.jpg (http://img129.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img129&image=00000551nw.jpg)

i could have removed the shaft too, but for the extra hassle and what not, i figured why? its not gonna make it any more different. so i just left it there.

[Strugglebucket]

why'd you remove the butterflies anyway? they do a pretty good job of helping out the low end. i've got a rev switch wired to mine so they open at 4k insteak of 5k.

[smufguy]

why'd you remove the butterflies anyway? they do a pretty good job of helping out the low end. i've got a rev switch wired to mine so they open at 4k insteak of 5k.

i removed them becuase it did not do anything to me, i did not notice any change in the car (literally) with it operating, and not operating. with a stock set up these make power at 5500 and torque at 4k, and those hp and tq numbers are not big to start with. And to add to that, me not finding any difference in it, i decided to get rid of it. I drove to the threater today and seems like its a lot smoother now. I dont wanna say its because of the absance of the butterflies, but it could be because the insides are clean? i dont know, but i just like to clean and its fun to have something thats clean on the inside even tho no one sees it, And also i cleaned the intake ports before they went on the car last year (but i know its cacked up now).

ps: i also ran the car with the pcv hose to the Intake manifold detached and blocked off and it ran the same. :rolleyes:

[AccordEpicenter]

Smurf maybe they werent working in the first place. For real its a huge night and day difference youll lose tons of power down low

[smufguy]

Smurf maybe they werent working in the first place. For real its a huge night and day difference youll lose tons of power down low

it was jason. We applied vaccuum to it and it closed. maybe i dont notice it when im driving it like a dick, but it when i was driving normally before and now, it just feels like the car revs up smoother with it disabled.

[AccordEpicenter]

usually when they dont work the solenoid is fuxored... the only way to see if they work is to look underhood and see if the vaccuum actuator for them is sucked down, if it is, it should open at 5k rpms.

[smufguy]

usually when they dont work the solenoid is fuxored... the only way to see if they work is to look underhood and see if the vaccuum actuator for them is sucked down, if it is, it should open at 5k rpms.

what solonoid? mine was connected to the Manifoled directly. i dont see any electrical connection on the on the diaphram.

[AccordEpicenter]

the way the factory setup works is that it has a vac line that runs from the intake mani to the mystery box and the mystery box has a solenoid in it, and it switches the vac line going to the actuator for the secondaries...

[smufguy]

the way the factory setup works is that it has a vac line that runs from the intake mani to the mystery box and the mystery box has a solenoid in it, and it switches the vac line going to the actuator for the secondaries...

hmmmm i gotcha. so possibly i wired it up wrong. Then like u said, the solonoid possibly could have just taken a crap. Now that u said that, i remember just leaving one hose out from the emissions box when i redid my vacuum lines.

[AccordEpicenter]

oh yea there is a vaccuum tank in that system somwhere (looks like a charcoal canister) yeah when i fixed mine the solenoid was majorly flaky

[Strugglebucket]

the vacuum hose off the diaphram actuator is #13 which connects to the vacuum hose rail (if you're using it). then from the other end of the rail #13 goes to the black box, where it is connected to a solenoid. the other hose connected to the soleniod is #12 which exits the black box and then goes to a vacuum canister (as epic mentioned), from which it continues on to the rail (the section of #12 between the canister and the rail has a little filter on it) and finally exits the rail and connects to the intake manifold.

the solenoid has two wires connected to it: black and yellow. the black wire is constant +12 and the yellow wire is the switched ground which actuates the solenoid. i don't remember if the ground is normally open or normally closed.

[AccordEpicenter]

you should have ground as soon as you turn on the key, and you should still have it as long as the engine is below 5k rpms. After 5k the ecu turns it off by killing the ground