DIY Poly motor mounts

[dillirk]

Thought this might come in handy for us low budget guys.

http://importnut.net/motormount.htm

I've never used the window weld they recomend but I immagin its the same urithane I use to install windsheilds. If so you can get a tube from ur local auto glass shop for half the price. We use Pro Grip made by Safelite that we sell for $4 a tube. Most urithanes are about the same there is a cheep one that is realy hard but I can't think of the name rite now.

[hondamanlxi]

mantis88lx swears by that stuff! And as long as his cars are faster than mine, i do too!

[AccordEpicenter]

yeah ive done that, 2 of my motor mounts were broken like the ones in the pictures and the window weld worked great. I broke the front mount so now im just gonna weld threaded rod over the mounts to make them solid...

[86LXItooFAST4me]

damn, and that is a HARD FORMING polly?

[carotman]

I used that kind of setup with my B20A... I still have the stock worn out front mount tough.

That stuff is really stiff. My engine makes the car shake at Idle.

[AccordEpicenter]

no its not hard, its pliable like silicone.

[dillirk]

yeah ive done that, 2 of my motor mounts were broken like the ones in the pictures and the window weld worked great. I broke the front mount so now im just gonna weld threaded rod over the mounts to make them solid...

I wouldnt do that to all of the mounts. My dad did that to is mini stock and he started breaking the mounts and his trany case. he ended up using solid mounts on the motor and a hocky puck mount for the trany. he even broke a grade 8 bolt on his cross member once. He said it sounded like a 12 gage going off. I guess you need some flex and vibration damping to keep things from falling apart.

[danronian]

I really need to do this to the front and rear mounts on mine. Both of them are empty of fluid and just flop around making the whole car vibrate like hell, I can't imagine actually having functioning harder mounts would make the car vibrate much more at all. After I read that article I realize that I have lots of wheel hop when pulling out so maybe this mod will help my two-year-old half shafts live a full life.
Considering torque monster v8s often use all poly mounts and sometimes all solid mounts I would bet are accords can deal with these slightly-harder poly mounts.

[A20A1]

http://www.mr2sc.com/websites/tech/SolidMounts1.htm#overview

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1168043

They said the 3m stuff isn't as good as the mc masters...

I wonder if I could finally mold bodykit peices... or does this stuff melt styrafoam. Maybe I'll jus coat the inside of the foam with a layer of sealer or ceramic paint.

Maybe I can use it to make stationary light housings. even though I like my flip ups... and I could redo my round tail lights.

[NXRacer]

There are a lot of diff ways to make solid motor mounts. This helps if you have problems with wheel hop during burnouts and takeoff's.

mike - im sure fiberglass would be just as good for your plans. and it would be a LOT easier to form and mold.

[A20A1]

Fiberglass is too expensive over here.

[carotman]

I have a solid side and rear mount but still got insane wheel hop during takeoffs... maybe the front mount is to blame tough.

[system-f]

you can get that polyurethane at home depot or Lowes. I used the light tan stuff on my front and rear 89 prelude mount.. It was very solid stuff, but gave just enough. The engine did transmit vibration to the interior more, but I didn't have to worry about it coming loose.

I've been play around with the black roof sealant polyurethane from Lowes lately. It will take at least 4 days to cure in a motor mount, but it seems super strong.

[danronian]

The front would be easy...just poke a hole in where the oil is supposed to fill it and instead fill it with the sealer and your done after a few days of curing. If I can't get the stock height one in, this summer i'll be making a poly front bushing.