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racerx
01-07-2005, 03:02 PM
Ok, this kit has the alarm, remote lock/unlock, and remote start.

I've hooked up the system to the lock and unlock wires, and now as I look at the diagram, I notice that I now need to hook up 2 wires to a (+) and (-) "Door Pin Switch".

What is this, and where is it located? Which wire(s) is (+) and which is (-).

Also, I don't suppose I could actually use the remote trunk release without an actuator, eh?

EricW
01-07-2005, 03:33 PM
Ok, this kit has the alarm, remote lock/unlock, and remote start.

I've hooked up the system to the lock and unlock wires, and now as I look at the diagram, I notice that I now need to hook up 2 wires to a (+) and (-) "Door Pin Switch".

What is this, and where is it located? Which wire(s) is (+) and which is (-).

Also, I don't suppose I could actually use the remote trunk release without an actuator, eh?

If the door pin switch is to see if any door opens then use the dome light and yeah you are going to have to get a actuator for the trunk but its worth it.
Heres the link to the solenoid that I bought. I only had to drill one hole and i didn't use the bracket that came with it I used two hose clamps instead.
Trunk solenoid (http://www.directed.com/security/access/oaccess.asp)

racerx
01-07-2005, 04:18 PM
right, thanks alot!

TJ89Accord
01-07-2005, 10:10 PM
You don't need the positive door pin wire, only the negative. And you need an actuator. Anymore questions feel free to ask! Here is a wire chart for your car.

12V white, white/black + ign. harness, fusebox
STARTER black/white + ign. harness, fusebox
IGNITION black/yellow + ign. harness, fusebox
ACCESSORY yellow and blu/wht + ign. harness, fusebox
SECOND ACCESSORY none
TACHOMETER blue 2 pin plug from distr.
POWER LOCK green/white - DKP or mod. under pass seat
POWER UNLOCK green/red - DKP or mod. under pass seat
PARKING LIGHTS + red/black fuse box in dr. kick
PARKING LIGHTS - none
DOOR TRIGGER black/white - above fusebox *1
HEADLIGHTS red/white (low beam) + at light switch
WIPERS blue/yellow - at wiper switch
LF WINDOW UP/DN red/yel - red/blu A at drivers door motor
RF WINDOW UP/DN blu/yel - blu/grn A at drivers door switch
LR WINDOW UP/DN yellow - yel/grn A at drivers door switch
RR WINDOW UP/DN grn/yel - green A at drivers door switch
TRUNK/HATCH PIN green/black - under left side dash
HOOD PIN none
TRUNK/HATCH RELEASE none
FACTORY ALARM ARM none
FACTORY ALARM DISARM none
HORN TRIGGER blue/red *2 - at steering column
BRAKE WIRE green/white/slvr dot + at brake sw.
LOCK MOTOR none non none
UNLOCK MOTOR none non none
DISARM DEFEAT none non none
DISARM NO UNLOCK none non none
DOME SUPERVISION none non none
SPEED SENSE none non none
SUN ROOF OPEN/CLOSE none non none
SUN ROOF LIMIT none non none
LF SPEAKER none non none
RF SPEAKER none non none
LR SPEAKER none non none
RR SPEAKER none non none
RADIO 12V none non none
RADIO GROUND none non none
RADIO SWITCH none non none
RADIO ILLUMINATE none non none
POWER ANTENNA none non none

Notes: *1 In a two-wire harness wrapped in vinyl tubing above fusebox behind coinbox. also found the same color in a green plug to the right of the steering column. *2 High-current ground. Use a relay when interfacing with this circuit.

racerx
01-08-2005, 02:30 PM
I'm having problems "tricking" the system into thinking that the trunk is closed. Should I just feed a positive charge into the trunk wire, or maybe ground it, or what?
the remote keeps saying that the trunk is open... actually, this whole thing is fucked up, but I'm trying to solve one problem at a time...

TJ89Accord
01-08-2005, 05:57 PM
Why does it think the trunk is open?

racerx
01-08-2005, 06:41 PM
yeah, but i found out now that it's just in a disarmed mode.
now i can't get it to arm, or the siren to go off, or anything...

TJ89Accord
01-08-2005, 09:50 PM
In valet mode? Usually just put the key in, turn it to ignition and hold the valet button, or flip the switch. Is the LED solid all the time?

Hey what brand / model is it? That would help a little more.

tim

racerx
01-11-2005, 09:13 AM
this is an alpha guards ag-95s. supposed to be one of their best models...
Anyway, I'm going to take it to a shop and see if they can't figure the d^&*ed thing out. I've had my wiring checked by my dad, and also by one of my neighbors who is pretty much a genious. (my friend's dad).
Both agree that I have the right setup, and everything SHOULD work... but doesn't.

The only thing they can say about the door locks is the possibility that the wire taps I'm using aren't connecting right, so I'm going to take them off and solder them together. Also, they think that the wire that's supposed to sense the oil light is loose and that would explain why none of my dummy lights are working...
So I've got to check that too...

But then I'm just taking it to "Drive-In Auto Sound". We'll see what they say.

Also, the guy who sold me this POS is not responding to any of my e-mails. There's a warranty with this item, but there is NO CONTACT INFORMATION!!! Anyway, I'm really pissed. It's been days since I've heard from this f-er.

Therefore, my best advice to everyone out there is:
DON'T BUY AN ALPHA GUARDS SYSTEM!
and more importantly, DON'T BUY FROM www.worldwide-export.com !!!!

snow_man_20
01-13-2005, 06:04 AM
ALARM PROBLEMS SUCK!!!!! :banghead:

racerx
01-13-2005, 02:00 PM
i completely agree. well thank god the guy told the manufacturer about the problem and they're supposedly going to get into contact with me.

do you think they'll compensate for some of the money spent on attempting to install it?