I think something is wrong

[erics86dx]

Well in the past three weeks or so my dx has been acting stupid lol, but seriously usually in first gear when I give the normal amount of gas pressure it will go for like 2 seconds, nosedive, almost die and then jolt forward at like twice the rpm i was pushing. It happens in second gear ever so often, and Its pissin me off, I almost got in a accident today cause the dam thing stopped and did its lil nosedive, the guy probably thought i was fuckin with him or somethin, its embarassing as hell, well any idea as to what the problem is let me know, it would be greatly appreciated

[88Accord-DX]

That is something on newer cars with the idle air control & TPS (throttle position) sensors throw a code on. There are several things that it could be since your car is a 86 carb. model. Your throttle linkage could be sticking somewhere at the carb. or other places. There could be a vacuum that is weak & not opening up a particular valve that needs to open up. It could be your fuel/air mixture is off a little. Do a timing check to make sure it is in time.

Sounds like the cylinders are getting to much gas to them at first & stumbling & as the air flow is good to them (cylinders) then it kicks in & revs up. I can't give an accurate thought on it w/o looking at it. Some diagnostic tools are needed to do a vacuum test & what not. Have you tested for any codes yet?

The carburetor might be acting up with some weak vacuum from a particular sorce.

[erics86dx]

thanks for the info ill check on her tomorrow before work

[A20A1]

Yeah check the vacuum for sure since so much depends on it...

What could lean the mixture
Lack of fuel from the accel pump not working right.
Lack of fuel because the solenoid at the back of the carb is faulty
Lack of fuel from a clogged or weak fuel pump
Lack of fuel from a loose booster venturi
Lack of fuel from a low float bowl setting
Lack of fuel from clogged jets and carb passages

What could richen the mixture
Power valve open from lack of vacuum or it's just stuck
Too high a float setting
The choke not opening fully
The charcoal canister dumping gas fumes into the primary barrel


Ignition troubles
There is also vacuum that could be weak to the vacuum advance diaphragm. You can always check the timming and make sure that when you remove the line it drops to the normal mark and when you plug the vacuum advance back in that it raises to the appropriate mark.
Bad connections grounds
Fould or old plugs
cap rotor


Vacuum also needs to go to you secondary diaphragm... there is a thermovalve operated vacuum bleed that keepd the secondary from coming on when cold.
The thermovalve should shut itself off and stop bleeding vacuum once the car is fully warm... but you need to make sure your coolant level is full and thermostat is working cause that can effect the operation of the thermovalve.

There are also thermovalve connected to choke operation... again it needs coolant to operate.