idle or lack thereof

[numbnuts231]

Heres the deal. I replaced the engine in this car (87 accord) and it refuses to idle hot or cold. you start it, it revs to around 2k for 4-5 seconds then dies.
If you pump the gas pedal realy fast the car will run up to 2k for a few seconds and die again. if you floor it it dies immediatley. if the choke is half closed it will idle fine. i have checked numerous times for a vacume leak and nothing is found. checked the idle mixture valve and it opens and closes fine.
i dearly love these cars but am running out of patience with this one! :mad:
Any advice?

[smufguy]

what about the idle stop screw? was it adjusted before? Did u just replace the motor or did u swap out the carb too? My car used to do that when i had a carb was because the carb was just flooding too much and i had to open up the hood and then put a piece of blocker on the butterfly to keep it idling alright.

[numbnuts231]

what about the idle stop screw? was it adjusted before? Did u just replace the motor or did u swap out the carb too? My car used to do that when i had a carb was because the carb was just flooding too much and i had to open up the hood and then put a piece of blocker on the butterfly to keep it idling alright.
Really what is happening is a lean idle situation. if i hold the butterfly closed it will idle fine. when i bought the car the intake and everything else was in the trunk. (bought the car for $10) there was an a18 block in the car but no head. i bought an import engine with 25000 miles on it and put it in with the carb and intake that was in the trunk. the engine i bought had no manifolds in it. but supposedly the car ran great when it was taken apart, due to a bad main bering, from a SERIOS oil leak.(spent about three days cleaning up oil residue) Thanks for the post though.

[A20A1]

Booster venturi might be loose

Did you check the float level

Also make sure that the air jet controller is hooked up to the correct ports on the carburetor... if letter A B and C are not in the right port or if you send manifold vacuum to one of the ABC ports on the carb by mistake... then gas can be diverted and cause problems.

Make sure nothing is clogging the vent tube on the carb that lead into the float chamber.

If the carb is old and used there is an internal vacuum source for the choke puller that may be leaky

other then that maybe a manifold gasket or carb gasket might be leaking.

PCV valve can also cause a vacuum leak.

also double check ignition components... ground wires... make sure the wires are hooked up in the right order... not that I think you'd do that.

[racerx]

how can the pcv cause a vacuum leak?! i thought it just went straight into the intake manifold.

[numbnuts231]

thanks for the help A20A1 will check all that. just did a new intake gasket,
and the float level is ok but i was spaying carb cleaner around and the thing will idle if you spray around the back of the carb. but there is no hoses off.
should you be able to visibly see fuel spraying in the primary at idle? i know with a larger engine you can. i dont think this car will take that much fuel to idle though. thanks again :dunno: Where is this "Boost venturi" you speak er..type of located? :dunno:

[numbnuts231]

well i checked everything but all is ok aside from a lost screwdriver (fell in the oil trough on the lift) but still no idle just starts , dies - starts, dies if you hit the gas and open the secondaries the thing takes off but if you only open the primaries it will die. should there be fuel coming out of the booster venturi at idle?

[A20A1]

Do you have the ground wire to the thermostat hooked up and also the one to the valve cover?