what should i do while the accord is in pieces?

[kaymo]

well, im going to have to do it. I have to take the accord off the road. no worried tho its only to fix it and make it better :)
I have to replace the front and rear crossmembers, which is alot so I've decided to pull my whole motor while i'm at it to check on things.
I'm considering finding a prelude SI tranny... i read somewhere someone did this swap and it helped performance. does anyone have the gear ratios? i'd like to see them. im putting in much needed new struts in the front. I would like to lower while im at it aswell. installing security system, foglights, cool air intake. I am looking for suggestions as what else i should take a look at while everything is out. what yall think??

kaymo

[SteveDX89]

The Prelude gear ratios are in the FAQ section, I believe.

[Vanilla Sky]

replace all of your suspension bushings and rebuild your steering rack... change your motor mounts... rebuild you brake calipers in the frond and put in new rotor and pads in the front, and get new shoes and drums for the rear... replace the rubber brake lines and flush the old fluid out... paint the engine bay and underbody... repair any rust you have under the car with metal... that should be a long ways into making the car new again...

[smufguy]

i have already mentioned it when they posted the stupid FAQ that the accord ratios were way offf. they are nothing but the samen damn lude Si ratios.


Si Lude:

1- 3.181
2- 1.842
3- 1.250
4- 0.937
5- 0.771
FD 4.066


86-89 accords with (A20)

1- 3.181
2- 1.842
3- 1.250
4- 0.937
5- 0.771
FD 4.066

I dont know why its not fixed yet. :uh:

[AZmike]

Take anonther look.

http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=165

Third, forth and fifth are all different.

[smufguy]

Take anonther look.

http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=165

Third, forth and fifth are all different.

umm.... i did mike. I have referred two sources and joe has it wrong for the 88 lxi. They are the same.

[danronian]

Change all front bushings that appear worn and both ball joints if they have any play, replace all motor mounts since they suck to do with the motor in, I wouldn't do the brakes in the front since if they are fine they are easy to do with the car together. I would replace all those stupid little coolant hoses b/c I did all but two and they are not easy on the arms with the engine in the car. Painting the engine bay would be a good idea. I also wouldn't mess with the rack since they often never go bad, unless you converted to non-power assisted. THis would be a good time to remove the A/c and/or cruise if you want to do that. Also flush out your radiator and heater core real good with some water so that it doesn't clog up your new hoses. I figure your going to do this, but in case your not I would suggest replacing all those engine gaskets that leak tons off oil all over the ground. Paint and de-ding the oil pan and replace it if it is rusted out like mine is. If you have any left over money it would be a good time to install a header.

[POS carb]

I did the swap from auto to manual and ended up getting a dx tranny b/c it wasa the only one with less than 200k on it, here's what I feel:

1st gear is plenty short, even though the dx has an economy final drive, it runs out of breath quick in 1st

2nd should be a little shorter to match the motors "powerband" (ahem cough lol cough) and 3rd should be a lot shorter if you change 2nd gear

4th is cool but if it could be raised a few tenths it would be perfect for top speed/ 1/4 mi racing, it'll max out around 5k before the carbie motor wants to die

5th should be left alone and used for nothing but cruising (no accelerating/decelerating) because the gear whines a bit and is obviouly not the best design based on other 3geezer's feedback but with it's OD gearing and lower final drive it is good on gas

the good thing is that it was mostly bolt on and it probably waighs 50-80 lbs less than the hondamatic
hope this helps your decision