PDA

View Full Version : Broken pedal assembly.



pendejo
02-17-2005, 12:33 PM
After replacing my third clutch cable in a year, my clutch finally engaged and disengaged like it should. Well, less than 24 hours of driving and I go to push in my pedal and noddadammnthing. Got to looking at it today and on the pedal assembly, there is a bracket that looks like it is welded to the "main pedal shaft"(the bar that all the pedals ride on). Well, the clutch cable is supposed to feed through a hole on this bracket but the bracket is broke. When you push the pedal in, it just pulls on the bracket and doesn't move the clutch realease arm. My question is, should I just pick up a new pedal assembly from the Junk yard, or have mine rewelded? Also, how difficult is this damn thing to get out?

AccordEpicenter
02-17-2005, 01:30 PM
its a bitch to get out, you have to drop the steering column and all that shit... plan on it taking hours.

pendejo
02-17-2005, 01:58 PM
Lovely :uh:

Strugglebucket
02-17-2005, 04:02 PM
you can do it without dropping the steering column but i would not recommend it.

some other things that help are unbolting the fuse box so you can move it around some (you'll need a long socket extension to reach the bolts), and pulling out the gas pedal from the bracket before you remove/install it.

AccordEpicenter
02-17-2005, 05:43 PM
imo its easier to drop the steering column then to fuck with everything else

HostileJava
02-17-2005, 08:11 PM
It's definetly easier to just drop the stearing column, you can rig it so that don't need that, I think YK86 rigged his when he first did his auto to manual swap before he swapped the whole pedal assembly in.

YK86
02-17-2005, 11:48 PM
Yeah, I had the clutch cable clamped. Didn't work all that well but I had no choice at the time. I then made my own stopper bracket but that required putting in a metal plate at the firewall, cutting the clutch cable steeve shorter, then putting the end back onto the shortened sleeve, and using the "new" firewall stopper to hold the cable end. After another member did the swap and replaced the pedal assembly, I ran out and did the same as well. I always assumed the assembly was welded to the firewall/frame.

Getting the assembly out of the donor car is easy since you can move whatever you want out of the way and alot of cars are missing seats or the dash is gone etc etc. But putting it in your car is the tough part since you have to do it with care and with a ton of stuff getting in the way and not much room. Good luck. It'll probably take a couple hours to get everything installed and adjusted properly.

pendejo
02-18-2005, 01:43 AM
I was thinking of rigging something up to hold the "stopper" to the firewall, but I'm afraid the actual cable will rub on the edge of the firewall and break, not to mention put more stress on other parts related to the clutch assembly. Thanks for the tips. I'll just drop the column, sounds easier that way. So rewelding is a no go?(probably cheaper to just replace it huh?)

89 Accords Rock
02-18-2005, 04:32 AM
Ive done that all when i did my auto to standars swap. Easy without removing the steering column.. Just take a day and you can get it out and the new one in,.

pendejo
02-26-2005, 10:22 AM
OK, I finally had a little free time in the daylight today to start to work on it. I removed the long bolt that the clutch pedal and brake pedal ride on, and the clutch pedal comes right out. My question now is how do I get that big bracket out? It looks like it is spot welded to the firewall, am I missing something here?

AccordEpicenter
02-26-2005, 11:53 AM
take out those nuts that you see that seem to go on studs that go thru the firewall, plus theres a few bolts near the steering column.

pendejo
02-28-2005, 02:06 PM
89 Accords rock, how did you get it out without removing the column? I've got it loose, ready to pull out but it is getting caught on the fuse box and steering column. The 17MM nut that holds the column to its bracket is not wanting to break loose, is it perhaps reverse threaded?