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View Full Version : 3g takes for ever to get up to speed, and braking problem...



gsus
02-17-2005, 10:27 PM
okay so i've had the accord running for about a month or so, but just recently started breaking in the new clutch. it seems like it drags when i try to give it gas at lower gears. the rpms rise great until a bit after 3k rpm's... after that it just drags!!!! what could be wrong?
-i changed the sparkplugs - bosch platinum +2's
-i got new plug wires
-i changed the air filter
-yet to change the cap and rotor... but could that really be the problem?
-yet to do an oil change (previous owner put mobil 1 synthetic oil 10w30, should i continue with that?)

also when i start the car up in the mornings (its pretty cold over here) its struggles to turn on... sometimes have to try twice to start the car.

as for the braking issue.. when im driving slowly it sounds like the pads are rubbing against the rotors... have yet to look, but i need to know what to look for. when i'm braking the rubbing/scraping gets louder along with a "clanking" sound as i am braking.. the harder i brake the louder... what could that be? axle? calipers?rotors?

do our rotors bolt on to the knuckle or do they get held in by the rim?
thanx in advance
-gsus

ps - sorry if any of this seems unclear (its 12:30 and im falling asleep at the computer) if you need me to clear things up or add anything that will help you guys help me let me know!

danronian
02-18-2005, 07:04 AM
For the lag after 3K:
Possibly a half-clogged fuel filter, or injector(s). The filter is cheap and easy to replace and you could try that chevron fuel injector cleaner I here people on here raving about or the lucas fuel treatment that I personally believe works great (it looks like honey, I was skeptic at first).
It could be your distributer cap/rotor, Just undo the three screw/bolts holding it on, pop it off and look for any white or green corrosion, there probably will be, you can clean it off with some sandpaper (220 grit) until you get a new one (they are about $15-$20), but if there is no huge deposits and all of the contact points look smooth and not gouged it should be fine.
As for the synthetic oil, if your car has any visibly leaks, I wouldn't run it. Synthetic and part-synthetic get used alot faster if your car has any blow-by or leaks. Mine usually uses about 1/2qt per 3k mi. and when I tried high-mileage part-synthetic it used 1.5qts. Now I use the high-mileage conventional oil (10w-30), since that stuff has the additives that swell the oil gaskets a bit which makes your car leak a little less oil.
FOr the brake issue:
The pads should always be rubbing your rotors slightly but they shouldn't constantly be making noise. If the car hasn't been driven for a month or so you should take off the front wheels and sand off the build-up or rust on the rotor with some 120-220 grit sandpaper. If that is not the case it could possibly be a seized caliper on one or both of the front wheels, if this is the case when you get out of the car after driving for ten minutes the brake will probably be smoking and/or will smell like burnt brakes. YOu will also notice that a seized caliper will heat up real fast so you can also try the touch test on them after you drive to see if one is alot hotter than the other. But before blaming the front brakes it could also be your wheel bearings in the front or back grinding, or in the front it could be the half-shafts. If your boots are ripped on the CV boots on either shaft that could be the culprit, or if when you make a sharp right or left turn you hear a clicking, that would also mean one or both of the cv joints are shot. The grinding could also be the back brakes since if the rubber plug gets knocked out on them they will often get rusted and will squeek and grind whenever you brake. TO check them just take the wheel and drum off and see if there is a buildup of rust inside the drum, if so sand it off, and while your at it look at your pads in the back to see if they are cracked, if so that might point to a seized wheel cylinder on that wheel or it could just mean you brake too much. If there is any brake fluid leaking under the boots of the rear wheel cylinders, it should be replaced.
Our rotors have set screw that hold them on the hub, which are a bitch to get out, and then they are held on by the rim nuts.
If your brake pedal is pulsing while braking that could point to warped rotors due to them being too thin and old or because you have a seized caliper.

gsus
02-18-2005, 08:00 AM
danronian, thanks alot for that informative response! :)

i'll check everything out tonight, the funny thing is that some of the stuff up front is pretty much new... new rotors, new front bearings, new drums, new clutch. hmm guess i'll just have to take them back if they are messed up in any way, thanx, i'll let you guys know how everythiing turns out. that way you guys can help me from there :thumbup:

POS carb
02-20-2005, 08:39 AM
you probably have poor fuel delivery (clogged filters or injectors, bad pump)
also oyu should make sure that dual-stage intake you LXi people have works properly, disconnect and plug the vacuum line going to it and hook direct engine vacuum to it, test it out, see how it feels after 3k

danronian
02-20-2005, 02:21 PM
you probably have poor fuel delivery (clogged filters or injectors, bad pump)
also oyu should make sure that dual-stage intake you LXi people have works properly, disconnect and plug the vacuum line going to it and hook direct engine vacuum to it, test it out, see how it feels after 3k
Hmm, I never though of that, but my car really lags from 2500-3500 RPM and I was thinking it was an inefficient and old o2 sensors but maybe it is the 2-stage intake, since the car is really rich up until that point and maybe it should be opening up earlier and it isn't. (I say the thing about it being rich because I pulled the plugs out one night and they all were wet and smelled like gas which leads me to believe the problem is the car is super-rich at those crappy peforming RPMs.)

mouchyn
02-22-2005, 05:54 PM
check those spark plugs, too. see if they're fouled out. I know bosch plats are terrible in honda engines. I only use NGKs