more problems with my lx-i

[gsus]

okay so i fixed the problem that i had posted in another thread (http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?p=496074#post496074) earlier... only to come up with another problem :(...

just a little info on the car before i continue on... this car had been sitting for months without being run because it had a god awfully fucked up clutch & shit for brakes... so i got the car for $200 and fixed those problems(new clutch, turned flywheel, new brakes, rotors,& drums).... then i had to fix the bearings because it was scary as shit trying to turn... then i actually was able to drive the car without much worry aside from the clutch break in period. the braking issue was fixed by my dads mechanic. well the car runs allright up till about 2500 rpm's - 3000 rpm's then the rpms just drag past that at WOT. so i tried a tune up (spark plugs (bosch +4's), new wires, & air filter - so far) and it still runs the same :(. so this wednesday i plan on changing the oil, oil filter, gas filter, cap & rotor (dont know how hard that will be but im gonna try it anyway. its bit different from my other car, the mr2)...

^^^ any input on this topic would be appreciated :), i've posted this before, but more input would help (http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=41696)

now to the current problem that just popped up :mad: ...

after getting my car started today.. i adjusted the clutch so that it would not grab way at the top anymore (which i did and is much better now)... but soon after i drive it around the block to see how it feels, when all of a sudden it sound like my car is farting at lower rpm's!!! and it will continue to far throught out the 1500 - 2500 rpm's (either revving up or revving down). and it sound like its coming from the rear seat area of the car.... anyway do i need a new exhaust system (cat back)? or could it be the silencer (if it has one that is)? if so how much do new exhausts run for for my car (its a coupe)

thanx for any input in advance,
-gsus

[Moodybluesr]

While you are doing that maintainance on wednesday you should also think about doing your:

PCV valve
Valve clearances (and valve cover gasket)
Ignition timing
Check for and replace worn vacuum lines
Clean out EACV

You can do searches of this site to find out more information about any of these.

Anyone else have anything to add?

[gsus]

just out of curiosity, is there a possibility that it might be my TPS sensor that is holding my car back? or could my exhaust in anyway, affect my car?

and as for the exhaust how is that monza exhaust that is sold on ebay? or should i just stick with oem? (i dont plan on doing anything to this car really, just want it running right)

thanx, for the advise Moodybluesr... i'll look into those

-gsus

[gsus]

a few more questions.... how hard is it to change the fuel filter?
and how do i go about cleaning out the EACV? is that by/on the intake manifold?
thanx again,
-gsus

[danronian]

For the fuel filter you just need a couple of wrenches to get it off. It is on the firewall below and to the right of the black vacumm box.

[gsus]

cool thanx man, hopefully i can get this all done within an hour on wednesday.

now who know how to clean out that eacv (electronic air control valve - right?)?

[Moodybluesr]

The fuel line bolts on the fuel filter are often pretty stuck on there so make sure you take those off before you remove the filter from the firewall.

The EACV is attached to the intake manifold; it sits just behind the fuel rail and has a 2pin connector on it. Actually i just looked up some info on the Accord EACV and it doesn't have coolant running through it like most Hondas do so you won't have to clean it... my bad. :D

The only reason you should have to mess with it on this car would be if you get a code 14 on your ECU.

[gsus]

The fuel line bolts on the fuel filter are often pretty stuck on there so make sure you take those off before you remove the filter from the firewall.

The EACV is attached to the intake manifold; it sits just behind the fuel rail and has a 2pin connector on it. Actually i just looked up some info on the Accord EACV and it doesn't have coolant running through it like most Hondas do so you won't have to clean it... my bad. :D

The only reason you should have to mess with it on this car would be if you get a code 14 on your ECU.

cool i guess that one less thing i have to worry about, especially since im not getting any codes :).

now one more question... how many vacuum lines does tha accord have that should take a look at? and could they cause the rpm drag?

[Moodybluesr]

The fuel injected Accord doesn't have too many; when I had my LXi I just bought a few feet of each size and cut new hose for the whole engine bay, just to make sure I cured any leaks. A vacuum leak probably wouldn't cause a problem to the degree you are describing but replacing them is cheap, easy, and definately won't hurt.

[gsus]

thanks alot man, you're knowledge is beyond me for the accord, its engine looks so complicated compared to my mr2 :(.... im sure i'll figure it out though
thanks again,
gsus

[gsus]

ok guys... i changed the fuel filter and the car seems a bit more responsive above 3k rpm's but its still lacking the power! :mad: all the vacuum lines looked fine... so i left them alone.

is there any chance that the fuel regulator is what is messing up my car?
how would the PCV valve affect my car?

thanks
-gsus

[gsus]

also... could a faulty distributor cause this???

[FyreDaug]

Have you adjusted timing?? ***

Because if the timing is too retarded it will cause bad power at that RPM. Also check to make sure your vacuum advance lines going to the distributor are functioning properly. I broke my advance when I was doing my timing (dont ask) and I didnt notice at first. If that sucker is loose it wont advance timing enough during higher rpms. And if it doesnt it will give shit for power. Believe me I know, and I think I had the exact same problem you are describing. Since the advance piece is just plastic and held on by 1 screw and it snapped, its jimmy rigged to sit in its place to properly advance the timing. If your hoses arent good there, or if something is plugged it will cause this. I believe this problem to be timing. Not sure about the farting sound though.

[FyreDaug]

And yes, a faulty dist could cause this, but the problems would be a little different and probably more of them, and it wouldnt idle right. First thing though, do your timing!

[syclinsam]

it sounds like you may have already done this or at least burned it all out, but is the old gas out of the system?

i agree with the timing and checking you distributor / cap. Although a bit different, my parents own a camaro rs and that would do the same lag and drag at higher rpm, new plugs, wires, and cap solved the problem.

good luck and keep updating

[Robs89LXi]

Your '89 LXi has dual stage intake. Check to make sure the second stage is opening.

[gsus]

And yes, a faulty dist could cause this, but the problems would be a little different and probably more of them, and it wouldnt idle right. First thing though, do your timing!

how hard is it to do the timing?



Your '89 LXi has dual stage intake. Check to make sure the second stage is opening.

how do i check the dual stage intake?


thanks
-gsus

[Robs89LXi]

Look in your old post:
http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=41696

[gsus]

Robs89LXi - oh man i totally missed that post... thanks i'll check that tomorrow :)

[Blkblurr]

How many miles on the car. It could be a clogged cat. This would limit your power drastically at higer rpms

[gsus]

the car has about 175,XXXmi... anyway to check if the cat is clogged?

[Blkblurr]

None that I know of.

[gsus]

well i changed the pcv valve today... which did nothing:(.... but its done

Robs89LXi - im assuming the dual stage intake is working if it didnt act any different with my crossing the vacuum hoses?

i was thinking maybe it could be my timing (which i have still to figure out how to do that), the distributor, the coil, the tps sensor, or the fuel regulator?

any ideas on how to narrow any of these down?

also if it helps, i've come to realize that for some reason when you are not trying to push the car it gets up to speed with little or no hesitation (but i can't be driving slow all the time - my 0-60 is probably like 16seconds)... but once i try to punch the throttle it hesitates & the car seem to jerk back and forth. i've also tried droping the car from 4th to 2dn (within acceptable rpm range)... but the car still struggles!
anyway... if you guys can think of something else that may be messed up please let me know

thanks
-gsus

[gsus]

also... do you guys know if that black bar that seems to be connected from the firewall to the engine (engine mount?), next to the intake mani..... is it supposed to move freely?