Wierd timing belt experience

[md21722]

When I purchased my '88 Accord last month, it ran okay but I was advised to change the TB as a precaution. This was my first Honda TB.

When I tried to line up the motor to TDC, I had a problem. With the cam marks level with the cylinder head, there was nothing in the inspection window. By moving the cam slightly (so the mark on the cam gear closest the front bumper was "down" a little) I could get it on the 3 tick marks. I thought this meant the timing was a tooth off.

When I put the belt back on, I set it up so when the cam marks are level with the cylinder head the pointer is at the 'T' mark.

I set ignition timing so its reads 24 BTDC with the car warmed up (fans) and vacuum advance connected.

Did I mention this was also my first gas car that I worked on (previous were diesels). I removed my PCV valve during this procedure to replace it. At first I didn't realize my missing PCV valve would be a problem when I tried to time the car (diesels don't have it, and there is no throttle plate). So I tried adjusting the timing forward and backward a bit and it would revv at 3000 RPM and die. When I put the dizzy all the way up it even cut out immediately and I smelt like something electrical burned up for an instant. Then I put a piece of tape over the hole for the PCV tube and boy was there a lot of vacuum! But I was able to time it and idled okay. I installed a PCV valve from AutoZone.

Now, the car pulls strong, but as I rev it under some load, it seems like it stumbles a little? The car revvs very freely and gets 30-32 MPG on the freeway. Before the TB it got a solid 31.6 MPG.

I am wondering if you all think I have a timing problem, vacuum problem, or electrical?

Thanks,
Brian
'88 Accord LX 224Kmi

[Immeraufdemhund]

hmm you have the carbed version. I have never been able to get those things to run well. I got soo sick of it i switched it to fuel injection. .....maybe you could be the first to make this thing diesel injection.

with your new pcv did you retime your vehicle? Cause that's what it first sounds like. The burnt electrical smell might be the vacuum advance wire. Does it miss at all in any of the rpm ranges?

oh yah this car does NOT like low rpms...unlike your diesels. if you have a 5spd rev it up to 3.5 before you shift. some like 3, but i think you get better clutch life out of 3.5. It sounds a bit weird revving your engine up that high, but it's ok.

with the possible vacuum leak (the whole freaking 10 miles of hoses) you can painstakingly go threw each vacuum line and spray it with carb cleaner with the car running. If it raises it's idle a bit change that hose.

report back. and welcome to the board.

[md21722]

Thanks for your reply.

After I put the PCV valve in I checked the timing, and once again after I had driven it on the freeway for a good while. It was still within the marks, but I set it at 24 BTDC.

I notice the miss/stumble between 2000-3000 RPM. It might do it at other rpms, but I haven't noticed. I'm not afraid to revv the motor once it warms up. I shift at 5000+ when accelerating on some of the steep freeway entrance ramps to quickly get up to speed.

[Oldblueaccord]

Thanks for your reply.

After I put the PCV valve in I checked the timing, and once again after I had driven it on the freeway for a good while. It was still within the marks, but I set it at 24 BTDC.

I notice the miss/stumble between 2000-3000 RPM. It might do it at other rpms, but I haven't noticed. I'm not afraid to revv the motor once it warms up. I shift at 5000+ when accelerating on some of the steep freeway entrance ramps to quickly get up to speed.


Might check to see if your vacuum advance is working properly.

wp

[md21722]

Might check to see if your vacuum advance is working properly.

wp

I read and then ignored the vacuum advance instructions in the manual. How do I know what 4 BTDC is? Can I "estimate" the position relative to the "T" mark? My timing light doesn't have an advance dial. Should I buy one that does?


Brian