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View Full Version : Rear drum brakes help please!



md21722
03-13-2005, 02:38 PM
I consider drum brakes one of my biggest weaknesses when it comes to working on cars. Pulling and engine is easier than dealing with those pesky springs!! The drum brakes on my Honda aren't working correctly. I fought to get the shoes and springs off in ways that weren't very nice. What is the recommended tool to remove the spring?

Do I follow the shop manual and start with the lower return spring? Anybody have a picture or can describe the best tool to remove these springs?


TIA

Immeraufdemhund
03-13-2005, 02:59 PM
there is this cup shaped hand tool that sorta locks (pressure lock) the plate on the spring. They say you can turn the plate and pull the pin out, but i usually have to move the pin with my hand then take off the spring. As for the other springs that hold the shoes yah starting on the bottom and working your way up has been a helpful tip. It takes a bit to get used to them and do it quickly and easily, but just take note of were everything is and how it is oriented in relation with other parts. ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS put the adjustor as low as it goes when up put it back on. It makes life so much easier.

SteveDX89
03-13-2005, 03:03 PM
The Haynes manual says to remove the hub in the middle. That makes it so much easier. You can slide the whole shoe assembly off and then disassemble the springs, etc. off the car. Then you put it back together and slide it back on as one unit again. That will probably save 15-20 mins. per side.

Immeraufdemhund
03-14-2005, 05:33 AM
yah, that's a good tip. I sometimes forget that i dont have a car lift no more, and the easy way is no longer just put the car up in the air more. Guess working out in the cold does affect things....hehehheheh

smufguy
03-14-2005, 07:01 AM
all i used was a flat head screw driver. Took me an hour to figure one side when i chagned them damn shoes for the first time. The other side took only 10 mts. They are not hard, but if its the first time. Its gonna be a while. Its a bitch tho.

md21722
03-14-2005, 08:53 PM
i was just checking the manual and it talks about a hub unit bearing. does this mean when the bearings go, EVERYTHING is replaced so there is no need to think about setting bearing preload, no dealing with grease or seals?

if that's true, I belive removing the hub may be the easiest way. :)

thanks

88Accord-DX
03-14-2005, 10:33 PM
i was just checking the manual and it talks about a hub unit bearing. does this mean when the bearings go, EVERYTHING is replaced so there is no need to think about setting bearing preload, no dealing with grease or seals?

if that's true, I belive removing the hub may be the easiest way. :)

Yes, that is true. There is no bearings to replace. The hub has pressed in bearings, sold as entire unit. No pre-load settings, they should be greased. Runs about $80-$90 a side.

md21722
03-15-2005, 09:09 PM
Had trouble figuring out how to "preset" the self adjusters. I tried to do it manually by turning the drum until it started to drag. But I don't have a good tool to do it from the inspection hole. I kept having to remove the drum and moving the wheel. Anybody have any suggestions or photo of a tool they use?

After serveral braking applications, the adjusters finally kicked in and my parking brake is now fully engaged at 10 clicks instead of 16. Both original adjusters were froze up. Fortuantely the adjusters on my parts car moved freely. I cleaned them up with a wirewell and applied antiseeze.

Thanks,

Oldblueaccord
03-15-2005, 11:17 PM
Had trouble figuring out how to "preset" the self adjusters. I tried to do it manually by turning the drum until it started to drag. But I don't have a good tool to do it from the inspection hole. I kept having to remove the drum and moving the wheel. Anybody have any suggestions or photo of a tool they use?

After serveral braking applications, the adjusters finally kicked in and my parking brake is now fully engaged at 10 clicks instead of 16. Both original adjusters were froze up. Fortuantely the adjusters on my parts car moved freely. I cleaned them up with a wirewell and applied antiseeze.

Thanks,

Yep thats how I do mine adjust it until you cant get the drum on and then back it off a few clicks. I set my E-brake to hold on 4 clicks when the drums are adjusted properly. You find out that the self adjusters suck and its just easier to adjust your brakes every 3 to 6 months to your liking.

There is a a special Honda tool to do it with the drums on have to search. I thought I'd seen one at pep boys but thats been forever.


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