damper fork bolt frozen

[jayshonda]

I did all of the suspension work on my 89 LXI (upper lower balls, springs, strut, etc), but didn't do the 1/2 shaft even though I knew it was probably bad. I hoped some grease and a split boot would suffice. I was wrong, it's clicking and clunking pretty bad around corners and I am taking it easy. The CV would probably fall apart if I hit the gas around a corner.

The reason I did not do the shaft is the damper fork bolt was frozen. I was able to get the nut loose, but the bolt wouldn't turn no matter how much rust eater i sprayed on. I put some muscle (and fat) on it and it felt like the head of the bolt would break off. Trying to bang it out doesn't work cause the fork and rubber bushing absorbs the impact.

So, do I get out the 3/4" breaker bar and and 6' pipe to break it off, or is there a easier way? Also, if I break it off, is the bolt a stock bolt or a honda type part?

Thanks

[carotman]

The bolt is a dealer only part. It has grooves so it will not seize in rust..... turns out it didn't work.

Here is a good way to remove the frozen bolt. This process was described by markmdz89hatch originaly on this thread http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=16728 Make sure you check that link. It has a really good description on how to do it. In fact, this should be in the How-To section.

Here's what needs to be done basicaly

1- Go to the hardware store and buy like 20 washers. In fact, get as much washers as needed to cover the entire bolt length. You can use anything else that will act like a big thick washer.... markmdz89hatch suggested a big socket which is a great idea.

2- Spray some rust penetrant on the bolt itself. It might not do much but it will help.

3- Break (or cut) the head on the bolt using any way you want. Make sure you do not damage the bushing too much.

4- Install 2 or 3 washers on the other bolt end and screw the nut back on it. Tighten the nut until you reach the enf of the threads. This will basicaly pull the bolt out of the bushing using the fork as a vise. Once you reach the end of the threads, remove the bolt and install a few more washers.

5- repeat the process until the bolt comes loose.



Il you just need to replace the CV joint, you do not need to remove the damper fork at all. You can just take apart the inner joint of the halfshaft and slide it through the damper fork to remove the old shaft. Do the same for the new shaft and you're done. This might be easier than just pulling out the fork.

[jayshonda]

excellent, i didn't know that the inner part of the shaft will come apart. i thought it was like the outer end, which is a major pain. if that works, i won't have to mess with the bolt at all.

thanks





The bolt is a dealer only part. It has grooves so it will not seize in rust..... turns out it didn't work.

Here is a good way to remove the frozen bolt. This process was described by markmdz89hatch originaly on this thread http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=16728

Here's what needs to be done basicaly

1- Go to the hardware store and buy like 20 washers. In fact, get as much washers as needed to cover the entire bolt length.

2- Spray some rust penetrant on the bolt itself. It might not do much but it will help.

3- Break (or cut) the head on the bolt using any way you want. Make sure you do not damage the bushing too much.

4- Install 2 or 3 washers on the other bolt end and screw the nut back on it. Tighten the nut until you reach the enf of the threads. This will basicaly pull the bolt out of the bushing using the fork as a vise. Once you reach the end of the threads, remove the bolt and install a few more washers.

5- repeat the process until the bolt comes loose.


Il you just need to replace the CV joint, you do not need to remove the damper fork at all. You can just tahe apart the inner joint of the halfshaft and slide it through the damper fork to remoce the old shaft. Do the same for the new shaft and you're done. This might be easier than just pulling out the fork.

[carotman]

Yup, make sure you get another boot clip or try to salvage the old clip if you take the tranny side joint apart. There isn't much room to work under the car and it can be a pain to put back on.

[jayshonda]

Yup, make sure you get another boot clip or try to salvage the old clip if you take the tranny side joint apart. There isn't much room to work under the car and it can be a pain to put back on.

[carotman]

yeah, that the clamp for the boot

[buds302]

i wish i would have thought of that last yearwhen i changed my axles. i said the hell with it and drug out the good ol fashoined oxy/acetelene torches and cut the entire rear control arm out and replaced it!

[Blkblurr]

On my front damper, I did the grinder thing. cut the bolt head off and used a drill to remove the rubber bushing material. I used a saw to cut the remaining steel shell out of the control arm. I then used the grinder to cut a groove in the new bushing steel outer shell so that it would get smaller when I pressed it into the control arm. Put the new carriage bolt in with anti seize on it and was done. It took me an hour per wheel after I figured out how to do it.

[jayshonda]

when i take the inner shaft apart from the inner cv, will the shaft slide out? or do i have to take the boot off and pull the snap ring inside the spider?

or, do i pull only the larger inner boot ring and slide spider and roller from inside the cv housing?

I'm looking at the diagram on the cd, so if you can reference the same, we will be on the same page.

[carotman]

Pull the larger ring and everything will come out. The inner joint is only held in place by the boot.

[jayshonda]

did it today, not a problem. i was surprised when I looked a the old shaft. it was way past clicking and all the way to clunking. I thought there would be parts crumbled in there. i was thinking of taking the outer apart and seeing what was going on, but i don't want to take a bath in grease. it's in the box and headed back to get my core charge tomorrow.

no clicks now, no clacks or clanks or clunks acccelerting around a corner. even spun the tires a little with the wheel turned. no noise at all. i think if i had done that before the cv would have exploded.

i also replaced the radius rod bushings while i was at it. what a difference in steering, no pulling to the left under torque. i've done so much to this car i hope the next owner appreciates it.

[carotman]

Glad you could avoid to remove the damper fork.

I guess I should replace my radius rod bushings too. They didn't seem too worn but they stillate 16 years old....