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View Full Version : Sanity check before I do a clutch



md21722
04-03-2005, 04:29 PM
I have had numerous "issues" with the clutch. I am 95% sure I need a clutch. The other 5% says junk the car ;)

When I got it,the clutch engaged at the VERY top of the pedal. NO free play. Adjusted to add free play. Then free play seems to change sometimes!

Adjust by the book, 1/4" at the release arm. Haha! Then its hard to switch gears. Also... lets say I get it into reverse. Push in clutch, then let it back out again, then push clutch... give it gas with pedal down, car rolls backward! then almost impossible to get it out of reverse.... works same in 1st gear.

Cable was replaced with no improvement.

Only way to make it shift into gears easily is to take almost all play out of release arm (then it engages at the pedal way high and is very annoying).

Can't find anything wrong at the pedal side. No adjustments right?

Does not slip (unless cable is adjusted so there is NO play at the pedal).

So far... does it seem like I need a clutch/pressure plate/release bearing?

I wonder if this could be related to my "thunk" when I let on/off the gas or if that is a diff or axle problem? Also get some intermittant vibes but the suspension is tight.

Maybe I need axle & clutch?

Thanks,

shepherd79
04-03-2005, 05:02 PM
well, since you will be replacing clutch, you may as well get new axels.

md21722
04-03-2005, 08:11 PM
Well I checked the suspension again and the left side ball joint has some play in it. Either my alignment guy missed it or it just recently happened. I guess that could explain some of the vibrations.

I will take the tranny out and inspect the clutch parts and report back.

Oldblueaccord
04-04-2005, 05:53 AM
Well I checked the suspension again and the left side ball joint has some play in it. Either my alignment guy missed it or it just recently happened. I guess that could explain some of the vibrations.

I will take the tranny out and inspect the clutch parts and report back.


if the pedal is high and needs that to shift right then yeah your clutch is bad. It sucks but that how they work.


wp

md21722
04-04-2005, 06:49 AM
Hopefully it will be solved with clutch, pressure plate, and release bearing.

How does the tranny come out of these cars and how much does it weigh? I have the front of the car on jackstands. I have the FSM. Will the tranny come out okay and stay on my floor jack with a 4" plate or do I need a tranny jack? I am worried the tranny jack will be too high and not allow enough room to get the tranny out from under the car.

Does the flywheel NEED to be replaced or resurfaced or is it generally safe to use "as is" unless it looks really bad?

I have a rear main seal I can put it, anything else I should inspect while the trans is out?

I hope this solves my "thunk" too. I could rebuild the suspension while I'm at it, but I don't want to put money into it until I know the clutch solves the issues. One thing at a time.

BTW: This is my first clutch job.

Thanks,

shepherd79
04-04-2005, 07:30 AM
the tranny will come out just fine. I like to remove the rear mount and it twist the engine back and down a little. this way it will slide out easier.
when you get to flywheel. check for any cracks or anyother damage. if it is ok. take 100 grit sand paper and said it in circular motion. it will remove glazin of the flywheel.
if you remove the flywheel, make sure you torque it down to specs with torque wrench. use good one that clicks and not those gay ones with arrow pointing.

mouchyn
04-04-2005, 09:54 AM
i would resurface the flywheel. It only costs $30-$40 at a local parts store and it will ensure a proper mating surface with your brand new clutch. Removing it also affords you a opportunity to clean up that side of the block and check for leaks and stuff.

If you have some extra dollars to spend on the car, take the flywheel to a machine shop and have them machine off a few pounds while you have it out of the car. If you just shave a few pounds off on the back side (side that faces the engine block), you won't damage anything. To get one resurfaced, machined down, and spin balanced shouldn't cost you more than $100 total. It makes a pretty big difference in throttle response and acceleration. Just make sure you tell them to extend/keep the timing marks. I machined those off on accident when i did my first one. oops. lesson learned.

md21722
04-04-2005, 07:32 PM
any suggestions on removing the speedometer gear components?

and does the entire torque arm assembly need to come out, or can I just undo the bolt under the air cleaner and the two bolts that hold the brackets to the block/tranny?

otherwise i got all the axles and other stuff out of the way, only a few clutch housing bolts to go :)

-brian

md21722
04-08-2005, 04:24 PM
New clutch is installed. It was the original clutch ... at 230Kmi!! Rivets on clutch wore a groove into the pressure plate. Springs were loose and disintegrating. No wonder I had a few issues with clutch engagement and thunking with the gas pedal!

mouchyn
04-08-2005, 04:26 PM
New clutch is installed. It was the original clutch ... at 230Kmi!! Rivets on clutch wore a groove into the pressure plate. Springs were loose and disintegrating. No wonder I had a few issues with clutch engagement and thunking with the gas pedal!

was the flywheel ok?

md21722
04-12-2005, 07:36 AM
flywheel looked good enough.

SteveDX89
04-12-2005, 08:05 AM
Good to hear it's going well. You should notice a def. difference in clutch engagement and driveability.

mouchyn
04-12-2005, 08:47 AM
if you didn't get the flywheel surfaced, you still might run into some slippage problems a few thousand miles from now. If you do notice that, don't freak out and think the clutch is roasted already. just find a stock replacement fly, have it resurfaced, possibly lightened some, and put it on.

you really shouldn't ever replace the clutch without resurfacing the flywheel. you're just asking for uneven clutch wear, slippage, etc. it only costs $20-$30 and it pretty much ensures good clutch performance for the life of the clutch. call it cheap insurance.

Vinny
04-12-2005, 08:54 AM
Even better just pick up a flywheel with a lifetime warranty like I did. 40 bucks or so at advance auto parts and you never have to wrry about resurfacing again. You just swap it out for a new one each time you change the clutch :D

mouchyn
04-12-2005, 09:12 AM
Even better just pick up a flywheel with a lifetime warranty like I did. 40 bucks or so at advance auto parts and you never have to wrry about resurfacing again. You just swap it out for a new one each time you change the clutch :D

damn, i didn't know they would replace it like that? I thought they would only replace 'em if there was a problem like chipping, breaking, balance issues, etc...

wow. yeah, there's no reason not to have a fresh, clean, balanced flywheel when you change the clutch, now!

Vinny
04-12-2005, 09:16 AM
If it needs resurfacing then it must be out of balance :D lifetime means lifetime