Power Steering Gearbox

[nutmeg_runner]

Age old debate do I sell it or do I fix it? I found a puddle of power steering fluid under the right tie-rod boot of the steering gearbox yesterday. After reading past posts I learned that following the manual's advice "replace seals" is probably a waste of time. Honda wants $700 for a new rack, best price parts place $160, and junk yard $80. The car has body rust especially rear wheel wells and is leaking oil-probably from pulley-end seal so I doubt it is worthwhile to spend much on it. Need to know how involved is changing the gearbox/rack? Are the directions in the shop manual accurate? The manual says to use a special ball joint remover to disconnect the tie rod from the steering knuckle. Is it possible to disconnect the tie rod from the gearbox without removing it from knuckle(or is the tie rod included with the rack)? Mike said the install was difficult-would he elaborate? I would think the removal would be harder (the header pipe nuts come to mind).

[BlueBead]

the tierod ends aren't that bad if you have a long prybar (mine is 4ft). or you can bang them out with a hammer if you are replacing them.
I heard that the rack ios a bitch.. I'm pulling my engine today, so the PS rack will be soonish too

[nutmeg_runner]

Interesting, how did you leverage the tie rod from the steering knuckle? I have a gear puller but I don't know if there is enough of a lip for the claws to grab. The hose at the leaking end is fine. It appears to attach to the dust boot with a small clamp like the coolant/reservoir hose. The power steering fluid level is only down about 1/8 inch so I may have time to sell the car if I choose that option. Good luck pulling the engine-you are braver than I.

[Blkblurr]

You can buy a tie rod puller from Harbor freight for about $10. Autozone will lend you one. It's the easiest way.

[Blkblurr]

For me the question would be: How much do I like the car? and How much would it cost to get something to replace it?

[nutmeg_runner]

Although I like the car I see the writing on the wall. I have already bought its replacement, 6G EX-L, but it is too nice for this grease monkey.

The tie rod looks like it just slips into the knuckle, if pressing with the gear puller does not work I guess a little hammer action might. If I am buying the gear box from another store I would feel uncomfortable borrowing the tie rod tool from AutoZone but if desparate I would get over being uncomfortable so thanks for the suggestion.

Did you replace your gearbox with a manual one?

[Blkblurr]

No, I still have the original one. The company I work for builds machines that put rack and pinion gears together then tests them before they are put into cars.

[nutmeg_runner]

Okay, now I remember your excellent lecture on the linking of the lines and capping off the rotary valve for those who wish to get their exercise sitting down. Are there brands of rack and pinions to be avoided?

[Blkblurr]

Not really. The ones I would avoid are the remanufactured ones from Mexico. I put some test equipemnt in a Ford plant there and I was shocked at the poor quality of work comming from that plant. They rebuld most brands at that plant and most of them come from dealerships.

[nutmeg_runner]

Thanks for the tip. Wonder how to tell where a rack has been remanufactured though?

[Blkblurr]

It should say on the box it comes in.

[SHURIK]

Get A New Rack From The Rekers And Put It In U Will Need A Impackt Gun To Undo The Bolts Cause Ther Realy On Thier And U Shold Make Out Just Fine

[BMS]

For the tie rod end, you just get a large pickle bar from a parts store for fairly cheap. It looks like a big two-prong fork, and you wekge it inder the rod end. Then with a large hammer you hit the end of the bar, and it's shape will force the rod end out of the fitting. Although it looks like it will just slip in and out, it won't. In the maintenence manual it does say to use a puller, but I think that the pickle bar is cheaper and faster.

[nutmeg_runner]

Thanks for the tips. I was able to push the tie rod ends out easily with the gear puller. So I guess I am going to do the change. The pipe fittings look like they might be a challenge. I did get the flare nut wrenches so I hope that helps. Is it necessary to support the engine when I remove the center mount? I think I could get a jack under the transmission. If I drain the power steering fluid as per the manual instructions will there be much left in the gearbox?

[nutmeg_runner]

Removal went pretty smoothly, only lost one nut for the B pipe bracket. Needed to use heat on two of the four head bolts. Flare nut wrenches made the control unit line removal a snap. Is the install going to be tricky?

[nutmeg_runner]

Finished tonight and even found the missing nut in my tool box. Tip for future replacement measure the end to end distance, mine was 138.1 cm on both the original and the junkyard one so I am confident that I set the tie rod ends the same as they were. I measured across the top to the ends of the tie rods with the tape resting on the dust boots and control unit(back side of pinion). The rods were straight front to back but hanging down to the level surface. With the rods straight the measurement was less but that was to hard to standardize. So far it has taken nearly 30 oz. of PS fluid. I am not exactly sure as I just dumped what was left in an open bottle plus nearly two more 12 oz. bottles. I enjoyed this repair as it was straightforward without much in the way of surprises and I even got to clean the underside pretty well.