Another engine rebuild thread... check it out [Archive] - 3geez.com

bobafett

06-07-2005, 03:48 PM

well this isnt so much of a question thread or anything, just a place for me to keep track of my plans, and update it as i aquire parts etc...

Heres the plan:
My motor has 263,000 hard miles on it, and it smokes like a crackhead while driving i can sometimes see smoke trail out the back as i get to higher rpms too; so I think my valve guides and possibly rings are starting to complain.

mods i have now:
Delta 272 cam
DC Sports Header
2.5" High flow cat
2.25 Catback exhaust
MSD Plug wires, and coil, and msd 6A module (would like 6al for the limiter function, but i can live without it)
Cold air intake
lame 4g map sensor mod

anyway, its a decent start...

rebuild strategy
i want to make a little more power with the car this time around, so i am gonna spend a bit more money to "do it right" and get some headwork done while i am at it.

head
- buy lowtek's 8000rpm valve springs
- titanium retainers
- forged valves

OR

- try rjudgey strategy of using exhaust valves/springs on the intake side, and getting custom exhaust valves and springs made.

- get intake bored to accept TB
- get head matched to the b16 intake
- 3angle valve grind
- port the head out!
- talk to delta about a bigger cam than 272

bottom end

- king tri-metal main and rod bearings
- high volume oil pump
- high volume water pump?
- bored .040 cause the block had some scarring.
- eagle h-beam rods
- diamond forged pistons (havent decided on target compression ratio
- balancing and blueprint the rotating assembly.

misc

- i havent found one, but that adjustable cam gear may be neccessary..
- the whole bit is going to be cryo treated and hopefully that will help me out! im not paying for much of the cryo treatment. my stepdad is using the a20 as a guinea pig! :) heehe
- shooting for 160-170whp NA with this... i am a little hopefully. but i think those are convservatively realistic numbers. also im considering turboing it, since i'll already have so much into the setup. on the other hand its a hardcore daily driver, so i may go high comp NA, just for longevity's sake. :)

----------------------------
mods purchased so far for the project

$150 - lightened flywheel
$130 - AEBS b16 intake manifold
$285 - BBK 68mm throttle body
$270 - Spec stage 3 clutch
$370 - b18ab non-vtec rods
$125 - prelude tranny
titanium valve seats
dual wound high compression valve springs
forged valves all around
high flow oil pump

-----------------------------

Busted_Blue

06-07-2005, 04:54 PM

sounds good. I'm curious how are you going to access all these parts? especially for the head.

With those mods I think an ACT HD-SS is good enough for your application in terms of clutch kit. It is an organic street disc. I think they go for about 300bucks or so, just shop around.

bobafett

06-07-2005, 05:01 PM

well wayne, lowtek, on this forum, bought a shit load of parts to turbo his accord, but now he is going with a corolla lol.

he has those parts i listed: forged valves, high compression dual springs, titanium retainers, and toga/toda (cant remember what the brand is) oil pump.

really the only parts im worried about getting are the cam gear and the premium bearings, i know u can find high flow oil pumps, plus my buddy has one i can buy from him.

ps i might run a 55-75 shot on here if the motor feels good and strong..

thanks for the tip on the clutch. phrenology also recomened a www.zoomclutches.com clutch... about the same price... :)

as for the pistons, u can order them in the .030 sizes...

im not sure what u think im gonna have trouble finding, hopefully i can round most of this stuff up.

i think most of the cost will just be machine work.

rebuild kit (with pistons rings etc) $400
clutch $300
springs/retainers/valves/oil pump $500
flywheel $150
cam gear, if i can find one $150ish?

machine work??

port work on head
valve grind
shave head

block decked
bore and hone for new pistons
balanced bottom end

if anybody knows where i can find the bearings i would appreciate that info...

bobafett

06-07-2005, 05:06 PM

ok, i checked out the clutch... it will hold 200ft/lbs, thats plenty, even witha 55shot, i doubt i would be at 200 ft/lbs. :)

act lists it at 385, maybe i can find it cheaper somewhere online though

Strugglebucket

06-07-2005, 09:34 PM

horsepowerfreaks.com has it for $262. that's where i got mine.

bobafett

06-08-2005, 05:54 AM

ACT HD00 - 262
ACT HDSS - 326

lol

carotman

06-08-2005, 01:16 PM

Sounds good!

Instead of shaving the dead, you can get it welded inside to raise the compression.

Strugglebucket

06-08-2005, 11:29 PM

ACT HD00 - 262
ACT HDSS - 326

lol
whoops. :uh:

Low Tek

06-09-2005, 12:43 AM

bobafett

06-09-2005, 07:48 AM

Low Tek

06-09-2005, 08:42 AM

yeah ill look into it...

i bought my flywheel the other day, so thats the start...

chris said u had a water pump too in that jumble of parts, is that true?

also your gasket set is the felpro one right? does it have the blue head gasket? i think i remember reading somewhere that that was a decent one to have...

I had a water pump, but I sold it on ebay for $25 - I can get you a good deal when you are ready

yea the gasket set is felpro, I would have to look to get the color.

phrenology

06-09-2005, 08:50 AM

yeah ill look into it...

i bought my flywheel the other day, so thats the start...

chris said u had a water pump too in that jumble of parts, is that true?

also your gasket set is the felpro one right? does it have the blue head gasket? i think i remember reading somewhere that that was a decent one to have...

I'll find the website for you. You should try a water pump made by CAT that's what I used. It's all aluminum so its lighter and the bearings are real strong. Anyone else try one of these? They make them for A20s.

bobafett

06-09-2005, 10:55 AM

very cool.

do you know where i can find better bearing than what i would normally find?

also i can get a good deal on waynes gasket kit, but where can i buy the rest of the parts and not end up with an extra gasket kit? or would it be best to jsut buy the whole complete rebulid kit (with pistons, rings and everything) and then use the better gasket, and better bearings and stuff that i buy seperately?

bobafett

08-01-2005, 03:05 PM

OK, got a big update for the accord build:

i ordered a AEBS B16 intake manifold, after a lot of research it's definetly going to be the way to go.
also ordered a 72mm-70mm tapered billet throttle body. the intake manifold is only large enough to go with 65mm tb, so i will have to open that up a bit. :)

i dropped my spare motor off at dan hall performance, and they checked out the block....

they are certain they can bore it out .040 and it will work (the scarring wasn't too severe) and after decking the block and shaving the head, it will bump up the CR a bit. also they have a stock OEM honda piston that will raise the compression up to 9.3:1, so im hoping to have CR of around 9.5:1.

they are going to have to find some good bearings, clevite doesn't make their tri-metal ones anymore, so they have to track down another source... also im gonna have another cam made from delta, and this one will be shooting for a poewrband of 4000-7500 rpm. ;)

i think thats all the updates i have for now. i will keep this thread up to date though.

bobafett

08-01-2005, 05:14 PM

also im gonna look into the diamond piston / eagle b-series rod combination depending on how much it will run me, and how long it will take to get them in... :)

5spdaccordlxi

08-08-2005, 04:03 PM

also im gonna look into the diamond piston / eagle b-series rod combination depending on how much it will run me, and how long it will take to get them in... :)
sounds like a hot setup man.... i think if i were you i would have chosen to save my money and drop an sr20det into your 240.....but thats just me

bobafett

08-08-2005, 04:34 PM

sounds like a hot setup man.... i think if i were you i would have chosen to save my money and drop an sr20det into your 240.....but thats just me

nah im intercooler pipes and a downpipe away from boosted KA24ET setup.. low boost for now... the car is already setup with full suspension and everything. just need to finish the A20 project before i dump more money on the 240 :) im not an sr fan. to me thats teh same thing as putting a B in an accord. im more about building the stock platform.. meh... oh well..

Versanick

08-08-2005, 07:51 PM

if you're getting new OEM pistons, I'd ask them if they can find hypereutectic pistons for the car. hyper-eutectics that fit my jdm b20a were exactly the same price as OEM pistons, but are MUCH harder. many race shops use them as frequently as forged pistons. they don't break.

I wouldn't spend my money on some performance water pump. water pumps are cheap, and if you burn one up, they're not hard or expensive to replace. you can do it yourself without much trouble or time.

the race shop can probably improve the performance of your oil pump.

and my race shop guy says that OEM honda bearings are some of the best bearings you can find. he has clients that race SCCA and when he builds their b16s that rev to 11k++, he uses honda bearings, and massages them for about an hour and a half, which he says makes them properly lubricate and work great right from when they're put in.

b16 manifold would probably be a huge improvement. I would assume that since the head ports on b16's are much better than the a20's, that port matching it would be a boon to performance in some way, no matter what... sounds awesome.

and I definitely wouldn't buy a clutch that's so expensive unless you aren't very good at driving stick. Even if I had a 300hp turbo accord, I'd buy stock clutches to the day that I die. When there's a jolt in the drivetrain, I want the clutch to be what takes the pain, and not my transmission or anything else. http://www.dialaclutch.com has ultra-inexpensive OEM clutches. I'm using an a20 plate on my 200hp+ b20a, and as I know how to take off only revving 1200rpm, and having the clutch pedal released completely before I give throttle after shifting, the clutch is hardly worn. and that's including constantly racing the engine and going to the drags on friday nights, and so on.

but as you like... good luck with the motor, sounds like it's going to be great. I had mine built with the intention of having to never rebuild it for the life of the car. getting the rods shot peened and polished are good procedure too. they're decent forged rods anyway...

bobafett

08-09-2005, 11:04 AM

after the shop looked around at the parts, i just have to make sure that the eagle rods for B18AB have enough room to open up the pin end .040 to make room for a 21mm wrist pin. if they do have enough meat, im going with diamond pistons with 1.2mm rings (good for n20 or boost) and forged h-beam rods.

as for the clutch, im still not totally sure, since i have never used anything but OEM, but im gonna have bit more power, and i plan on abusing it. but ur right i would rather cahnge clutch than transmission parts! :) ill take another few looks around before i buy ...

the ports on b16 are definetly bigger, and with the huge TB and headword im planning on, it should flow really well. shop wants about $650 to port match the manifold to the head, the tb to the manifold, do a valve grind, and work the bowls... not too bad i dont think...

bobafett

08-09-2005, 06:33 PM

UPDATE:

ok well i just ordered a couple more parts...

Spec Stage III Clutch (http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/price/Honda/Accord/SPEC/Clutches-Flywheels/Clutch_Kits/part/Honda_Stage_3_Sprung_(X-Pad_Disc))

and

Integra B18A LS Non-VTEC Rods (http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/price/Acura/Integra/Eagle/Engine/Connecting_Rods/part/H_Beams_4340_Forged_Chromoly_Steel)

:D

rjudgey

08-11-2005, 09:39 AM

Yeah but if you get a cheap OEM clutch they fall apart, if you buy a nice Organic sprung hub it won't break the tranny and will last 50K+ miles, the pressure plates and disks from quality manufacturers are so much better, i've had every clutch under the sun and nothing compares to the Clutchnet one i know have, the valve springs are pocketed in the disk and will never fall out unlike all the others which just have nasty bent bits off steel to hold the springs in, this is by far the weakest area of all the OEM and other high performance Clutch Disks.

As for for the headwork try not to concentrate too much on making the ports bigger, you need to work ont he valve seat shape and getting the air around the valve stem as easily as possible, and also if your running a B16 inlet manifold with a Huge TB i would seriously consider changing you valves to larger ones you can go upto 33mm on the inlets and upto 38mm on the exhaust valves, this will give you the increase in flow to actually work with the inlet manifold and the size of the ports that you will have once it's all matched up, camshaft wise i'd go no less than 285 degree with 11mm lift more ideal would be 290 degree duration on the inlet lobes 11mm lift and 295/300 duration with 12.5-13mm lift on the exhaust will take a little work to get that lift you'd have to machine the valve spring seat down a bit so that it sits a bit lower or just limit it to 11.5-12mm lift this setup would work well with N/A engine and should scream upto 8.5-9K rpm.

bobafett

08-11-2005, 09:48 AM

interesting rjudgey! u seem to have some experience in building these, ive seen your comments in a lot of threads.

can u tell me where i can find the oversized valves? im already getting a set of forged valves, but i think they are stock sized. if i can get oversized valves for a good price i would certainly love to do that...

hate to be a newb, but the camshaft numbers dont mean anything to me, i just assume that the higher the numbers (lift, duration etc) the more aggressive the cam profile...

my delta cam is a 272 (degree i assume) but i dont know what the lift on it is...
i need a totally streetable cam profile, i daily drive this car 100 miles a day commuting, would your 285 degree + cam work with a daily driver street driven car? i WAS actually planning on running a more agressive cam, and i know i would have to do some machine work to get a more agressive one to work, which is fine. the machine shop is going to be really really busy with my shit anyway, so i dont have a problem shelling out more money for that work... my concern is PURELY drivability...

but yeah hook me up on info about those valves and more info on the cam and whatnot.. (also i have a newb q, would stock retainers and springs work with oversized valves? cause i was gonna buy those good springs, and Ti retainers from low tek)

rjudgey

08-12-2005, 03:06 AM

Well i drove around with a 285 duration cam in mine a for quite a while, yeah idles lumpy but it was okay, if you really not sure 280 duration should be fine maybe go with 280 degrees on the inlet and then say 290 on the exhuast or 275 inlet and 285 exhaust give you a few more hundred rpm's at the top end as well as nice torque curve, the valves ont he exhaust side are forged allready they are some of the best valves money can buy allready, only other is titanium, i can get valves made up from stainless steel about £15 each, I originally used old exhuast valves and machined them to fit in the inlet side of the head, this way you could use the existing exhaust valve springs and platforms which are stronger than the original inlets especially if you have Prelude exhuast springs they are seriously strong. I have about 8 heads so had plenty spare!! Had the guides remachined to the same stem diameter as the exhaust valves and they popped straight in, if you go to my cardomain site you'll see the complete head with exhaust valves installed with exhaust springs attached as well, the only downside was that the exhaust valves and ports were restriciting the flow cause i'd jumped up so much on the inlet side.
Even with a low cam spec such as 280/290 with 11mm lift with 33mm inlet valves and 37/38mm exhaust valves you should see massive gains in flow and power the extra noise the engine made from doing this mod was really noticeable a lot louder. With carbs this mod is good for about another 15-20bhp even more with a better camshaft, but you really need to make sure your getting the right amounts of fuel in or you'll run really lean and start melting pistons.
You only need massive head mods to accomodate a camshaft with 290-300 degree duration with more than 11mm lift so anything less than that you should be fine.

bobafett

08-12-2005, 08:26 AM

ok, yeah that is something i will definetly look into. i like the idea of using exhaust valves on the intake side. and just buying a different setup for exhaust valves and springs. where did you find the setup for your larger 37/38mm exhaust valves, and which springs did u use?

im only looking to take this motor to 7500, i woudnt be opposed to 8000, but that just seems to be pushing my luck... have you played with custom pistons, and changing the compression ratio at all? im thinking of jumping up to 10:1. but honestly I'm not sure how to address the tuning on all this. i dont think SAFC will cut it... i think obd1 swap and a cheap standalone like uberdata will be the way to go! then that presents me with a whole pile of other issues! :(

anymore suggestions? i really appreciate the comments so far!

rjudgey

08-12-2005, 08:58 AM

I'd check out Megasquirt all in one package that works very well, can be made up yourself if your good with electronics. You can get a FSE boost valve which is also a adjustable FPR, then you just have to look at bigger injectors etc. Not too hot with injection but learning more working with my B20A.

Justin86

08-13-2005, 05:16 PM

well you all ready know my opinion, we all just want to see this project done. :D I'll keep working on the OBD-1 swap and hopefully can get everything sorted out and get a good basemap for the A20.

bobafett

08-14-2005, 09:12 AM

according to jason who wrote turboEDIT, an obd0 pm6 (90-91) civic SI ecu would be the best choice, cause it still has electronic dizzy control... :) just a thought. wouldnt solve our dizzy problem, but it would make the ecu install a lot more straightforward! :) now i just need to find a pm6 pinout and compareit to a20

EDIT: i just read your reply to that in the obd1 thread...

yeah your right that wont fix the dizzy problem, but i wonder if u can just use any electronic advance dizzy. i thought this was the case, which means its the same issue we would face with obd1. the only reason jason thought the pm6 would be a better choice is because the eCU's might be easier to find. your right that we are gonna have to tune the hell out of a map for a 1.6 civic 16valve compared to a 12valve 2.0 liter.. :)

i have an accord .bin file, but i think its the one sean used with the GM ecm project, and dont think it would be helpful on a regular honda ecu. if u want it i can send it to u, maybe it would be a place to start

hmm i guess i really need to decide on a fucking ECU before i start trying to get too far in my plan

Justin86

08-14-2005, 10:44 AM

yea and I tried running the OBD-1 civic PO6 and it ran way to lean. If you can get the dizzy mounted, everything else should be good and I'll try to get you a good basemap. The PM6 ECU are a dime a dozen so you won't have any problem finding the right stuff. I'd like to look at the one Sean has to see the tables, maybe i can make it work.
Also I have the pinouts for ya. ;)

bobafett

08-23-2005, 02:32 PM

well the motor stuff is alllll at the shop now. im going to stay with stock valve setup, and use all waynes shit...
i could have stepped up to some huge intake valves, but there is no room to go larger on the exhaust side.. so since there is already 2 intake valves, theres not much point in opening them up, it will cause shit loads of resistance on the exhaust side.

so instead they are going to just port and polish everything up, and just make the stock stuff work really efficiently. :)
im gonna go with ARP main studs just so that nothing flinches at 8000rpm, but other than that, once we get it balanced, the whole fricken thing is ready to go.

the only other things i know of that i have to buy are pistons and ARP main studs, she already got the king bearings in for me (fucking sweet trimetal ones). after that its just ponying up for the machine work and all the shit they have done! im gonna have to start setting cash aside, since just the port work on the head and all the parts im bringing them (intake manifold, throttle body, head) will run me like $600, and then whatever i will owe them for boring and decking the block, shaving the head ,and balancing and assembly. :)

anyway the ball is rolling and picking up speed, i dont see any potential hold ups, as long as the pistons show up on time, lets say i get them in a month, i dont see any reason why the motor couldnt be ready in another month (2 months away, not too shabby!!!

thats my update yo...

NXRacer

08-23-2005, 04:54 PM

didnt sean say once that the A20 heads flow just as good as a B16 head?? kinda hard to believe, but its food for thought.

as for a clutch, you should hit up Friction Specialties out of portland. Hatchbackracer got a 500hp clutch for 100 bucks, including pressure plate. I had called them a few months ago and the guy that runs it just went into the hospital with a stroke, but i talked to his wife a month or so later and she said he was doing really good. I havent called them lately, but it sure wouldnt hurt to try. Maybe we can get part numbers from Chris and take them down to the shop. The problem with FS is that they dont have a computerized inventory so all the part numbers and prices were in the dude's head. . . . .

bobafett

08-23-2005, 04:56 PM

haha man where have u been, ive been posting pics like crazy in the accord pics section. i already bought a spec stage 3 6puck clutch!

bobafett

09-11-2005, 11:54 AM

ok, new motor update:

the tb port matching to the intake manifold is done, the port matching of the intake manifold to the head is done, the head is ported and polished, now all that is left to do up top is to finish up the valve grind, and get the guides in place.

as for the bottom end, its all balanced, and the crank is turned, just waiting on the specs for the pistons (stiiiiiiiilllll) so i can order them up.

oh and the ARP head studs are on there way, but not installed yet...

so thats where im at. gotta get the pistons in so they can punch the block and then i just gotta get a couple peices cryo'd and its time for assebmly. ( and i gotta get a different cam hehe)

bobafett

10-31-2005, 04:02 PM

another update:

damn people at diamond racing and at my shop have talked me into 8.5:1 CR, so i can throw down up to 20psi of boost. :D also going with 84mm bore, 3.3050" i think... which is basically .050 over :) im getting some sweet chrome steel rings, and now the search is on for a .050" thick headgasket, does anyone have any suggestions? cometic doesnt have a part number for the a20, does anyone know a place where i could get one custom made?

anyway, once i can find a headgasket that will actually work, and have a larger bore diameter, and thicker material, then i can have them build the pistons. :D they are gonna cost $520 or less with the good rings and pins too. :) not too shabby overall...

so thats my update. anybody with advice for how to get f22a dizzy onto the a20 should share with me! we are wondering just what needs to get mangled!

Low Tek

10-31-2005, 07:17 PM

so much for goin all motor eh!! lol
I tried to call you bout a week ago..

bobafett

10-31-2005, 07:35 PM

yeah i wanted to go higher CR, and keep it all motor fun before i boost it...

but i was planning on boosting anyway, so i would have to tear the motor apart and use different pistons anyway, so i guess its smarter to just do it this way...

the sad part is how slow its going to be while its NA with only 8.5:1 CR... just means ill have to organize my turbo stuff sooner. :)

Acid X

10-31-2005, 10:56 PM

Bah, i wish i had money to spend like that.

bobafett

11-01-2005, 10:05 AM

yeah its a lot of money, but its my decision to spend money on the accord, cause ilove it, and its that ,or buy a different older ish car.... i cant afford the car i want (02 wrx) right now, so i would have to settle for crx or 4g or 5g accord, and i honestly like the 3g better.... so instead of spending 5 grand on a different car.... ill just put it into the accord lol...

anyway as alex can attest to, its the first 'real' car project that im ever going to follow thru with....

boost my accord by building extra motor: failed
build my 240 and boost it and build 2nd motor: failed
build my accord cause my old a20 is dying: *** MISSION IN PROGRESS ***

its just gonna be alot of fun to show everyone what the a20 is really capable of... accord epicenter has inspired me, cause i know this car is just gonna friggen RIP when its turbod. :) :)

Justin86

11-01-2005, 06:09 PM

boost is our friend I'd more then willing to help anyone out in their search.

phrenology

11-01-2005, 06:21 PM

another update:
now the search is on for a .050" thick headgasket, does anyone have any suggestions? cometic doesnt have a part number for the a20, does anyone know a place where i could get one custom made?
anyway, once i can find a headgasket that will actually work, and have a larger bore diameter, and thicker material, then i can have them build the pistons.

PAECO will make you a custom headgasket out of copper or other materials...those guys suck to deal with though. The said they could do a
.050 because they only list a .02 and a .07 I think. They will ask you for a stock headgasket...those bastards still have mine so I know they have at least 1 A20 template...I dunno give it a shot I think it was like $200 for a copper one. :dunno:

bobafett

11-01-2005, 06:23 PM

80 from cometic :)

gfrg88

11-01-2005, 08:32 PM

man i cant wait to see this engine up and running, its gonna be awsome :rockon:

bobafett

11-01-2005, 08:35 PM

likewise!!! :)

Justin86

11-05-2005, 08:20 AM

oh same here :rockon:

88Accord-DX

11-05-2005, 08:55 AM

Post some pics as you come along with it. We get enough hype on H22's around these parts. LOL

bobafett

11-05-2005, 09:09 AM

what all do you want pics of?

i posted pics of my rods/clutch/flywheel(ithink) i posted pics of the head, i have a couple pics of the assembled head, but none with the intake manifold and throttle body on it... i have a pic of the motor with the damn f22 dizzy on the cam, but no way to mount it! heheh lol

you fuckers have me all concerned that im boring it way too much, but honestly the diamond guys said to get the BITCHING rings, that will handle any power adders, i would need to step to 3.305 final bore. :)

because of the 8.5:1 compression, i think that 14's might be out of reach NA, but i know i will be knocking on their door... once boosted it will be as fast as i want it to be... 20psi will not be a problem with the parts i have. its just amatter of if the axles and tranny would like it. with justin(88) and johnny-o's experience, i think axles and trannies will definetly hate me.

88Accord-DX

11-05-2005, 09:24 AM

what all do you want pics of?
Pics of the engine on the final stages would be cool. Anyhow, why isn't you dizzy not able to mount on it? You still using "Top Seal" rings? I think there is a limit on boring out cylinders so the walls aren't too thin between bores. Hope you didn't exceed that value.

bobafett

11-05-2005, 09:46 AM

yeah ill make sure to get a shit load of pics once the pistons come in and we start to make real progress on it. :)

im not sure what brand of rings, they are not honda rings, they are chrome steel top ring, and the rings are 1.2 1.2 2.8 whatever that means (sorry im seriously new to engine rebuilding, this is my first time)

as for exceeding the limit on the bore, we will find out. u guys make me very nervous, but my gut says, nobody has really done it, and they are all taking other peoples info as facts. i have never heard of a 3g going more than .040 so as far as i know, its all speculation that .050 is too much.

if it turns out to be too much, i will use my other block, order another set of pistons, and use my stock headgasket and stock bore. i will still have all the components of a built motor, i will just need a new set of pistons and a smaller bore on my extra block. its would be a shame, but really not the end of the world

88Accord-DX

11-05-2005, 09:59 AM

I think you should be ok with .050 thousandths of an inch. What is the deal with the distributor not working for you?

bobafett

11-05-2005, 10:16 AM

well it fits onto the cam fine, obviously, but mounting is goingt o be a nightmare, and the clearance between that and the thermostat housing and thermostat housing stud, is like 1mm lol which means no room for a nut... :( ad we will have to grind the dizzy body away, to leave room to move the dizzy. :)

it will fit, but we are going to have to get creative. :)

AccordEpicenter

11-05-2005, 12:13 PM

shit son, what cam are you gonna use and whats your final list of head mods? I second the Clutchnet reccomendation, i still run the sprung 6 puck and dual diaphram pp. Heavy pedal, but big holding power. The quality is wonderful. I put the clutch kit side by side with the spec clutch i had (and smoked) and the quality of the parts was much better (and the clutchnet cost LESS) it was also better driveability. My personal opinion is that you should stick to a stock compression ratio and stock bore etc and let the boost do the work, but the headwork is a great idea, im just not sure about a monster cam on boost (just dont know... im hoping to see your guys' experiences). Youll have more power at 9.3:1 and better driveability in and out of boost with the better compression ratio... but the copper headgasket or MLS or whatever you can find is good insurance at big boost, even though the stock headgasket is a pretty good piece. Sounds like you have one hell of a project coming together though. Im personally thinking about a bigger intake mani/tb and maybe a different cam because i know i can make much more power than i am now, even on the stock bottom end. You can have driveshaftshop make you a set of axles too (might cost you $500 or more)

bobafett

11-05-2005, 02:53 PM

heres the final setup...

i have stock cams, 272 and 282 cams, i am gonna run 282 while NA, its gonna be a little while until i have all my shit together and can afford to run boosted... unless justin wants to sponsor me and build me all that shit for cheap... :D

when i boost ill probably stick to either the stock cam, or the 272, i cant see the 282 being allll that great for boost. but it might be good , ill probably be tuning on the dyno anyway once its boosted, so i can figure all that out...

anyway head mods:

70-68mm bored billet throttle body
AEBS B16 race intake manifold (opened up to 68mm intake, and port matched to head)
forged valves all around
high compression valve springs (built to handle 8500)
titanium retainers
3 angle valve grind
port and polished head
CAM (who knows which one ill use)
DC header will be on the exhaust side for now

also getting cometic copper gasket and have arp bolts holding that shit on there...

as for the clutch, the spec stage 3 is supposed to hold 260 ft lbs, which spec clutch did you use? i have heard nothing but great things about the clutch specialties clutches, so if/when i toast the spec clutch i will certainly look into it. :)