Honda wont start

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I have a 87 Accord that I am trying to get going again after it sat for 2 years in my backyard. I put a good battery into it and it started and ran for about 30 seconds and then died. I then drained the gas tank and put fresh gas in the car , put on 2 new fuel filters, also put in new plugs and wires. I sprayed carb cleaner in the throat of the carb. When I tried to start it again It churned , but no firing at all .
I pulled out a plug and had my wife turn the engine over a couple of times.
I got spark and fuel .
Does any one have any suggestions as to what is the most likely problem of no start ? Thanks. Dave.

[Magny]

if u get spark and fuel, the only thing i could think of is 180º out of phase on the rotor. if this is the cause u need to find TDC (top dead center) on cylinder #1 and set the rotor to the #1 cylinder wire. then try it. But a mental note, dont try turning the car with a wrench while the battery is connected. Disconnect it first, then use a wrench and find TDC, set everything, then connect the battery and try it.

[A20A1]

Vacuum lines may be worn or leaking creating a vacuum leak. Have you checked the PCV valve?

Is the weather cold?

How is the coolant and oil level?

Did at any time you disconnect a ground wire from a wire harness/loom that connects to the thermostat housing?

Is the distributor interior in good shape? any oil/residue/build-up inside the cap?

[[email protected]]

if u get spark and fuel, the only thing i could think of is 180º out of phase on the rotor. if this is the cause u need to find TDC (top dead center) on cylinder #1 and set the rotor to the #1 cylinder wire. then try it. But a mental note, dont try turning the car with a wrench while the battery is connected. Disconnect it first, then use a wrench and find TDC, set everything, then connect the battery and try it.

The car started and ran ok for 30 seconds ,then it stalled and wouldnt re-start. I did not remove the distributor. Could the rotor have gotten 180 out of phase ? Thanks, Dave.

[Magny]

it is possible if the rotor is old, they can crack and easily slide around, but then again it wouldn't really cause it has a key inside itself. looks like a d when you look inside the shaft hole, so it only goes on one way. sometimes when it is out of phase it still could start, because of the excess gas in the cylinders not being fully exhausted out of the motor. but then again i could be wrong, but i have seen some cases like this happen. for instance, my brothers 65 mustang. we tried startin it over and over, and when we got it to start, it stayed on for a bit then stalled right out. Kinda like urs. so what we did is, checked over everything, and when we checked we checked twice just to make sure we didnt miss anything. so when we got to the dizy, we opened it up and looked at it. we also took the #1 spark plug out to see if the cylinder was up. it was, but the issue is that the rotor didnt point directly to the #1 wire on the dizy. thats how we found out that it was 180º out of phase. we set everything to TDC(or close enough in our case) and closed it all back up. once we cranked it, it started up in a breeze. ran great thereafter. but still u got it to run so u know u are getting fuel, and also a spark, but it just could be possible that it is out of phase. check it just to make sure, if it is right, then we could take it further along the lines to see if we can get ur car started, and fully running again.

*EDIT* but since u are also gonna be in there, check what A20A1 suggested too, just to make sure.

[[email protected]]

Hello , thanks for all your help.
This weekend I got a new distibutor cap and rotor and put them on. When I did that , I realized I had put the plug wires on wrong before. I put them on 1-2-3-4 instead of 4-3-2-1 .
The car started and ran rough for about 30 seconds. Pumping the accelerator pedal helped it keep going.
I sounds as if its not getting enough gas , although earlier when I pulled a plug and cranked the engine fuel came out the cylinder.
I didnt try the positioning the #1 cylinder TDC yet , although I will. Also I bought a new PCV valve .
Do you know if the PCV valve goes in the valve cover or in that u-shaped hose on the intake manifold , under the air cleaner ?

If the TDC is O.K. and put in a new PCV valve , and still get the same problem , and there is still no start , what is the next thing to check ?

I have a Haynes manual , from that I think I should check fuel supply , is that right ?

Thanks, Dave .

[Magny]

well u are sayin that fuel comes out of the cylinder, so fuel is being supplied, what could be the next thing to check is your ignition coil. that might be the prob for not givin enough spark or no spark at all, so looks like your chance to upgrade to MSD blaster coil. but if all goes well after installing everything and checkin the TDC, then u could consider changin the coil for good sparkage.