So working on a motor rebuild...

[Doward]

Couple of questions...

What would you all expect to pay, for an A20A/5spd combo, running or not? Carb'd, efi, whatever, I don't care - just want a spare engine/tranny to rebuild.

As far as the actual rebuild goes, if I have to do any machine work, that will be done. Are the stock pistons just cast? What kind of power can the stock bottom end take?

I'm thinking either -

A) Rebuild it all, regrind cam + header/mandrel bent 2.25" exhaust, Weber 32/36 on top

or

b) Rebuild it all, stock cam, T3 45trim @ 6psi blow through Weber 32/36. How does the Weber do, in a blow through setup?

BTW, I can get rebuilt Holley 5200 (rebadged 32/36, from what I hear) through AZ for $110, no core ;)

[FyreDaug]

Around here the junkyards are wierd for prices, some of them check everything out, do compression tests and get all the information about engine condition before you buy it, some of them pull it only testing if it works or not.

Put it this way, I bought a parts car for 400$CND, its a fully functional car only rear driver side frame damage, still drives a straight line too. Its got less km on the motor than I do, less rust and a good interior. I paid $500 for the car, and junkyards wanted 300 for engine, 200 for tranny or 450 for both. Some ranged as engines for 125 (bad compression needs a rebuild) or 400 for a good one.

For EFI think about $50 more, 5spd are usually cheaper around here. Think about 300 bucks ish.

Stock bottom end should be good for about 300hp, the crank is forged/nitrated so its probably good for 450-500. I dont think the pistons are super good, the engine was meant to last, not make power. Thats why the bottom end is good and the pistons are durable for the power they make stock.

As for your options:

A) That would be my suggestion, its a good relaible build and im sure itll outlast the car if built right.

B) If you dont know a whole lot about F.I. I wouldnt bother, its not the best engine to be turboing unless you have the money (not knockin the A20, but bang for buck its best for a motor swap IMO) I wouldnt put a turbo on a carbed engine, first mod for bang for buck would be to convert to FI if you didnt already buy one. Gives you much more options.

Another thing to consider is nitrous, best bang for buck there. Reliable on the street and built to last a good shot when you want it. This is what Im doing, fully built engine just NA specs, with a bottle strapped to it equivalent to the horsepower it puts out in the first place.

[Doward]

*chuckles* I'm well versed in turbos... I've built the only turbocharged 2.8 '88 Camaro running around ;)

What I was wondering, is how the Weber holds up to turbocharging... is it a solid float, stock? Do the throttle bushings leak, or are they pretty sturdy? I think I'm going to pick up the Haynes Weber techbook. Quadrajets have always been my thing (helped build a turbo Pontiac 400 with a QJet), so Webers are new to me :D

[AccordEpicenter]

i think they were o ringed... not sure. I bet you could do it, im just not sure about the weber carbs and what mods youll need to do it right. You might need only an FMU (FMU's work ok in carb setups)

[Doward]

I'd HAVE to use a rising rate fpr... otherwise ,I'll blow the fuel back out of the bowl :)

[Doward]

Hmm.. here's another question - what accounts for the increased hp of the fuel injected accord? Bigger cam? Better intake/exhaust? Increased compression ratio?

All of the above? :)

[phrenology]

Hmm.. here's another question - what accounts for the increased hp of the fuel injected accord? Bigger cam? Better intake/exhaust? Increased compression ratio?

All of the above? :)

Well with EFI you can do alot more depending on your ECU and if its chipped ect. Search the EFI tech section for more help. Cams, intakes, and headers will always help too.

[phrenology]

Couple of questions...

What would you all expect to pay, for an A20A/5spd combo, running or not? Carb'd, efi, whatever, I don't care - just want a spare engine/tranny to rebuild.

As far as the actual rebuild goes, if I have to do any machine work, that will be done. Are the stock pistons just cast? What kind of power can the stock bottom end take?

I'm thinking either -

A) Rebuild it all, regrind cam + header/mandrel bent 2.25" exhaust, Weber 32/36 on top

or

b) Rebuild it all, stock cam, T3 45trim @ 6psi blow through Weber 32/36. How does the Weber do, in a blow through setup?

BTW, I can get rebuilt Holley 5200 (rebadged 32/36, from what I hear) through AZ for $110, no core ;)

Haha thats cool. I'm kind of doing your option A for now. I have a complete rebuilt A20A3 block with an A20A1 carbed head and intake. I was gonna go with my rebuilt dual DCOE 40's but I'm more concerned with good mileage and reliability until I get to CA. If I was gonna stay in FL I'd say fuck it and do the DCOEs but I gotta worry about CA emission standards and gas prices so I have a brand new Holley 5200 (jetted for 2.0L) (which is basically a weber 32/36 licensed) going ontop of my A20A1 carbed manifold with minor port work done to it.

Once I get settled in CA I'm looking at either doing the DCOE swap or ITBs EFI conversion with a small turbo for my Rally setup, it all depends on how much I wanna get invested in my car and if I race it. If you are gonna turbo/SC I would do DCOEs on your A20 becuase you have more flexibility with jetting and DCOEs are built up for racing. You can set them up for draw through or pressurized boost too just watch your jet set. Buy a true Weber book not the Haynes generic book and read up if you're not familiar with Weber performance or racing carbs. Good luck on your build.

[AccordEpicenter]

doesnt mike (a20a1) have a similar setup phrenology? I think seans' hit over 230hp with the stock engine before... im probably just under him, but its all in the tune.

[Doward]

*IF* I decide to turbo it, it'll only be like 6psi, from a small T3. I'll probably throw my ZT-2 on it, and set the jetting for 14.8-15.0:1 idle/part throttle cruise, with approx 12.8:1 AE, and 12.5:1 under boost, WOT (richen the secondaries).

Of course, that implies that the secondaries on the 32/36 ARE adjustable. I've got more research to do, to find out! :)

[FyreDaug]

You say you will cap off at 6psi, but build the engine to handle up to 12, just so when you DO want it (which you will want eventually, its inevitable) you wont blow yourself up.

[Doward]

Nah, it's the wife's car. I figure 6psi of turbo will add more power than any headers/cai/etc. :)