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Versanick
06-22-2005, 06:35 PM
So after a lot of playing around, I had to start the car (the starter is on a switch, wired with common speaker wire) to get the ECU to blink the 8 flashes. The key had to be turned on AND the car running. I didn't know that part.

Anyway, 8 flashes is what it gives me, a few seconds after the car starts up every time. as known, jdm b20a, gude race cams, and a million other things... my problem is that I think (this is Josh's car) that the distributor, I thought I remember him saying, was from an 86-89 integra. which is fine. vacuum advance, and the right outputs.

now upon research, that particular distributor is supposed to have a blue wire and a brown wire for TDC (as well as two other different colored wires for CYL,). The blue wire is to correspond to the blue/white wire that goes into the pj0 ECU and the brown wire is to correspond to the blue/orange wire that goes into the pj0 ECU. The problem is that, at the distributor, there are ONLY two wires coming from it. There is a blue one, and a black one with yellow line.

So not only is there not four total wires (two CYL and two TDC), there aren't even any corresponding colors to either other than the blue one.

I took pictures of the distributor (and my motor, and car, yay) and will post pictures of it tomorrow when I get home in Buffalo, to load them on my computer. If anyone knows where I'm supposed to find wires to plug into my ECU for TDC, let me know. I'm running so rich, I have to change the oil every few hundred miles, and I can't floor it from idle without stalling out (the plugs get SOAKED in gas and whatnot).. I need to be making some more power leaning it out and need to be not getting 12mpg.

help!

peace
paul

carotman
06-22-2005, 07:06 PM
In fact, the Integra distributor doesn't have any TDC or CYL sensor.. It looks like an A20A1 distributor.

The TDC/CYL sensor are located on the Exhaust cam on the Integra. If you use the Integra distributor, you need to use the TDC/CYL sensor from the 86-87 Integra as well.

Versanick
06-23-2005, 05:18 PM
So I'm assuming this is indeed an a20a1 distributor, which I had no idea could work (with the b20a cams being marked differently, I assumed)... my timing seems to be just fine at this point. Maybe what I should have will depend on what my cam position sensor is... those are the second two pictures:
http://home.stny.rr.com/versanick/burythetach/distributor1.jpg
http://home.stny.rr.com/versanick/burythetach/distributorwires.jpg
I think these wires are similar (if not the same) in color to those from an 86 integra's. Is this the integra unit on my exhaust cam, or is it something different? Or is it not identifiable?

The first picture is a picture of the sensor itself, the second one is of the wires up close..
http://home.stny.rr.com/versanick/burythetach/camsensor.jpg
http://home.stny.rr.com/versanick/burythetach/camsensorwires.jpg
I thought these were both 86+ integra units. But if my dizzy is an a20a1's, should I assume that this cam position unit is from a different car than the integra's, as well? Whatever the case, the TDC sensor of those wires isn't happening.

And will the fact that my exhaust cam is advanced 10 degrees affect the exact timing of the opening and closing of my fuel injectors (based on the Haynes manual says these sensors do)? Or is that not really that much of a difference to make any kind of impact on the actual performance of the car?

The Haynes said that a malfunction of these (and the function of them) heavily affects how the fuel injection operates...
sorry for the 56k death

peace
paul

and thanks for the help carotman. you're the man.

thegreatdane
06-24-2005, 07:23 AM
Your distributor is not an a20a1 distributor, that would never fit, it's most likely from the 86-89 integra, along with the two sensors on your exhaust cam.
Does the code 8 appear if you set the exhaust cam at 0 degrees?

Versanick
06-24-2005, 10:50 AM
No matter where my exhaust cam is, the same code is thrown. 0. 10. -10. 8 flashes.

I was asking about the exhaust cam timing as a general thing... as in, asking why exactly the TDC and CYL inputs have to do with fuel injection timing.... that's less important than exactly what's wrong though. Do I just look for a new "cam position sensor" or "cam sensor" for an 86-- integra?

thegreatdane
06-24-2005, 10:59 AM
If you have access to a scope you can connect it to the TDC sensor and see what it reads.
I think you can test the sensor by measuring it's resistance or voltage too. Look in the shop manual from pauls site, the one with the B20 engine added, and see what the sensor needs to read.
Check the wiring to the ecu, check the sensor plug for poor connection and so on.

Versanick
06-24-2005, 07:54 PM
So as it turns out, the two wires on the bottom of the four in the cam sensor connector, were so deteriorated that they weren't properly connected. So after Chuck, Joe, Al, Mike, and everyone else wired it back together how it should (maybe mostly joe? I don't know. you don't know them. what am I talking about?)... the car started and didn't throw a PGM-FI light like it always did (until minutes later, which is a code 12 that probably isn't related to the problem.)

Still running as rich as noon is the day. My bid is that the fuel pressure regulator isn't operating at all (stuck closed?)... because having it connected to the idle thing (no possible way to get proper vacuum) didn't make any difference from being where it was supposed to (on the manifold itself, the butt end).

I'm going to think of what a proper new thread for the post is, and where to post it. I have to decide if my big problems are electrical (tachometers reading insane random readings, 8k, 0k, hitting rev limit, etc) or mechanical (vacuum from cams, some sensor just not there or hooked up right, ignition needing a recall, running rich... ugh).

Thanks for your help so far.
this will be a journey.

thegreatdane
06-25-2005, 02:37 AM
Code 12 is your EGR system. Running rich could be your O2 sensor gone bad.

firealhrdcor
06-25-2005, 10:42 PM
Chuck here (Versanick's friend)

the o2 sensor is brand new so no luck there I dont think.

The car has an MSD 6AL box along with a blaster 2 coil. The stock tach is hooked up as it was from the factory as far as I know, and the AutoMeter tach is hooked up via the 'tach output' from the MSD box. They are rarely in sync, but quite often they will both start going completely haywire. I mean in less than 5 seconds while driving @ a constant MPH the tachs will bounch uncontrollably from 1k-8k and anywhere in between. When this is happening the car bogs like crazy (like if an o2 sensor is not working properly/at all). So I think there is an issue with where the tachometers are getting their RPM reading from, otherwise both tachs wouldn't have the same symptoms simultaneously.

So I guess my question after all of ^^that^^ bs is, where does the stock tachometer get its RPM reading, and do any of the symptoms above sound like a bad...

1. Distributer?
2. Cam Sensor?
3. MSD Coil 2?
4. MSD 6AL box?

(Leaving all options open here)

??

Thanks for any help/input!

Peace,

Chuck