low RPMs get too much fuel

[HondaBoy]

ok, well first off i've done the stage 1 vacuum line removal. also, i did the manual secondary. so i know i have to not punch it really when taking off or i'll get a bog somewhat. anyway, i thought i'd fixed it, but nah i didnt. lets say its at idle, and i give it enough throttal to open the secondary. with doing that it seem like it sprays too much fuel, but just in the secondary barrel. that sucks for taking off, sometimes if i'm not careful i'll make it stall. remember also its automatic transmission. i've helped the problem out with flipping the air cleaner lid, so it usually gets enough air so it doesnt bog. but sometimes it doesnt. with the air cleaner lid put on the correct way, it doesnt get enough air and has problems pretty bad below 3000 rpm. i had discussed this problem previously, but didnt really get any hints on what it can do to overcome this thing with too much fuel below 3000 rpm. otherwise, it does great and i suppose this extra fuel does help my top end out some. anyway, i was wondering if any of y'all that have done the vacuum line removal have this little problem? it may just be something i have to live with which i suppose i can. its not a huge problem. seems like it could use some more air though. supercharger would be nice, but of course impractical in the sense of getting it to work right. just a thought though. could this just be my carb malfuntioning? like the jet is over doing its job? oh, another thing, i've noticed that as its gotten hotter outside it likes to stall like right after i've just started it cold, when the choke plate has opened. i usually dont take off until its opened and settled the idle.

[FyreDaug]

Well removing the vacuum lines and converting to manual secondary is a big problem, the secondary doesnt open until 3200rpm or something, so if you dump too much fuel in youll bog, and thats exactly what your doing. Try building an intake for it. It'll cost you 50 bucks at most and it will free up the intake restrictions so youll have more air to mix with all the extra fuel you are dumping now.

Other than that I donno, I doubt leaning out the idle will help much (if any at all)

[Ruckus187]

I am having problems with my vehicle idling low and stalling whenever I stop and/or slow down to make a turn. I have to put it into neutral and rest my foot on the gas to keep my engine at or above 1000 RPM's , meanwhile braking with my left foot. It is such a disappointment as I had just bought the thing on Monday of this week. It started doing it yesterday ( Wed. ) when I got off the highway and stop at the light it just down right stalled and I haven't been able to get it to idle normally since. This morning after I started it, it shot up to 3000 RPM's to warm up and when I tapped the gas to get it to idle regularly it went down to 2000 RPM's. However, after I got it into Drive it went to just above 1000 RPM's and was idling normally until I had it on the road for about 4 minutes and then at the very next light it stalled and I had to start the whole juggling act between neutral, left foot on the brake, and the right ridding the gas. MY question is this : What can I do to get it back to idling as it should be ? Do I need to tweek something on the Carb ? What can I do ? Thanks - Ruckus

[FyreDaug]

Ruckus, try spraying carb cleaner in the carb first. Then check for vacuum leaks, when its at 1000 with your foot on the gas is it an erratic idle or is the engine speed staying constant?
Also, you can try adjust the idle speed itself, maybe its dropping too low for your warm speed idle.

[HondaBoy]

that just sounds like its a vacuum leak from one of the hoses on the carb. doesnt sound like much else. probley is just a simple vacuum line, with the emissions crap still on it will act up like that. oh, and as for my problem, i thought of adding a hood scoop in front of the carb. maybe fab up a sheet metal intake of some kind, sort of like it is now. you know, a boxey shape to it. i'd like it to be a little smaller though so i'll have to look at what filters i can adapt to a new design. probley a small round one like V8 air cleaners have, then make it a ram air style so its funtional to get fresh air in instead of hot engine bay air.

[Ruckus187]

Ruckus, try spraying carb cleaner in the carb first. Then check for vacuum leaks, when its at 1000 with your foot on the gas is it an erratic idle or is the engine speed staying constant?
Also, you can try adjust the idle speed itself, maybe its dropping too low for your warm speed idle. The engine speed stays constant while my foot is on the gas, but when I remove my foot the engine idles erratically. Not too bad but it's still rough.

[shepherd79]

i had the same problem on my carb when i removed all the lines. removed the choke and converted to manual secondary.
i couldn't get the bog out.
this is what i did.
if you look at the carb, you will find that it is made out of 3 slices. top part, middle part and bottom section.
between middle and bottom section there is plastic spacer. i just added another one from my spare carb and it fixed the problem.

[A20A1]

I've always had trouble with not enough fuel...

If you do stage 1 make sure you keep the air jet controller and the power valve hooked up correctly.

Vacuum secondary may be better for you.

The mechanical secondary can be adjusted very slightly.

Did you remove the EFE screen?

When you remove more vacuum lines you're more likely to run rich so you may want to port the carb some. Porting will let in more air and reduce turbulence... if you reduce the restriction in the venturies and boosters venturies you'll pull in more air but less fuel. Don't port the throttle bore. Like Shepherd said the carb is in 3 parts. The base of the carb you can remove and you just work on the middle and top hat section when you port.
Don't port too much at once... try smoothing out any sharp edges or protrusions/restrictions in the barrels first before trying to increase the venturi bore diameter itself.

[A20A1]

Check the idle speed, keep it low.
- Disable vacuum advance (both)... if you see a significant drop in idle rpm don't run #25 advance if the idle is too high.

What you want to do is try and close your Primary throttle plate, it may be open too far and it is causing you to bog... you want to set the throttle position with the throttle stop screw, but first you may need to lower the idle and A/C boost screws. If you close the thorttle more you might get rid of the stumble off idle.

ONLY IF YOU HAVE LOW IDLE PROBLEMS.
Try a different means to gain back idle RPM if your idle drops too low after you feel you've set the best throttle position without the vacuum advance. Try adjusting the distributor advance or supply direct manifold vacuum to the vacuum advance #25 port.

[HondaBoy]

hmm, porting the carb is something i thought about. i'd probley just start with smoothing out the bore because i dont wanna screw things up. what would you recommend using to smooth or port the bores? i have a small rotory tool that i use to polish metal and stuff. has a max rpm of 19000 rpms. i have soft polishing wheels, but i'd expect to first use a sanding type i guess. i'd expect that this will maybe help out that secondary port? as for now, i havent really fixed this problem of the low end bog. it does only last a second, but i'd rather not have it. i put a pressure gauge on and it had a jumpy pressure reading and at higher rpms it would spike up and down quite a bit. i added a pressure regulator and have fixed that problem. i'd think that could have created somewhat fast wear on the float needle. now its pretty smooth and doesnt spike up. i used brass fittings to connect the fuel lines in and out of the regulator and pressure guage. those work great. no leaks.

[A20A1]

the float needle is some kind of rubber it doesn't seem to wear out too fast even if you increase the psi.

[HondaBoy]

OIC, i had replaced the float needle when i rebuilt the carb. the old one didnt look bad though. do you think adding the pressure gauge and regulator was a good idea? any benefits you think i'll see?