Arg, damnit! (Driveshaft problems)

[FyreDaug]

Alright, both my shafts were fucked so I got new ones a while ago, never could get the pinch fork bolt out so I left em for a while. Time came and I had to replace them today, so heres my situation.

At first I could get the damn pinch fork bolt out, so I got pissed off and just ripped the suspension off the parts car (all bolts came out fine) and got everything ready, just pull the suspension apart again on the driver car and just replace everything. Well it wasnt that easy. The lower control arm to chassis bolt was siezed realyl good. At first it wouldnt turn and I was breaking 17mm sockets and then it started to turn, really tough. So I kept at it, then I noticed the metal was being bent on the bolt head side when I unscrewed it, so it was bending the metal it was siezed to.

Finally torched the shit out of it and used the BFH and got that out. Got the new shaft in the transmission and noticed that the rod that connects to the front of the car to the lower control arm (cant remember the name, toe rod?) was loose and was probably causing my wandering car. Fixxed that and started building the suspension again with the shaft in place. Got everything together except the sway bar and the ball joint. I was going to pop the ball joint in, tighten everything up and hook up the sway bar again, but the hub doesnt line up with the lower control arm to put the ball joint back in. Even with the BJ all the way bent over it still didnt line up. And yes the shaft was all the way in the transmission. We popped it out and put it back, same thing.

My shafts are slightly different, the one I pulled out had a thicker shaft, but both ends were the same. Only the driver side one was thicker. I pulled the driveshaft thats going into it now from the parts car (86, mines 87, haynes says they are the same shaft from 86+) and the passenger one I got from a JY.

The problems I have right now is I cant get the damn balljoint to seat on the driver side because its off. I measured the shafts and the old one is 1/8th inch longer (maybe thats just the way I was measuring that threw it off, because the shaft was still through the pinch fork, so I measured the same way on the new shaft going in, still within 1/8-1/4inch. Which still fits within the haynes limits. Another problem is the balljoint that I just put in new <1000km again (mechanic did it) is siezed on the passenger side and cant get the fucker out. I dont really wanna torch it, and theres no way Im using a pickel fork again, the main reason the BJ's were replaced.

So, someone please help me figure out why the bj wont line up with the lower control arm. I'll try hooking up the sway bar and trying again, but I dont see how that would affect it.

PLEASE HELP this has already taken 8 hours today with all the siezed bolts and frusteration.

[FyreDaug]

Heres some pics of what I mean

Shows the shaft being out too far (http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/808000-808999/808617_25_full.jpg)
The whole assembly, showing the new shaft (http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/808000-808999/808617_26_full.jpg)
This is actually trying to show how the balljoint is off from the hole, but you cant really see it (http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/808000-808999/808617_27_full.jpg)
The complete old assembly with the old shaft (notice its size) (http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/808000-808999/808617_28_full.jpg)

[ShimriC]

are you sure the axel is in hooking up with the differential,.? i had the same problem when i had to take if off just to change my alternator,. make sure u pack it with axel grease. o and make sure ur car isnt in gear if its straight drive.

[FyreDaug]

The cannot go in any further, the metal part is holding it back from going any further. It looks the same way the old shaft did in the trans right now. And now its raining, so I cant do shit anymore.

[carotman]

I bet that your car is a 5 speed and the parts car is auto....

[Blkblurr]

Measure the length of the old shaft to the new one. You probably have the wrong shaft.

[FyreDaug]

They are both 5spd, only diff is 1986 parts and 1987 mine. And I did measure them, the new one is 1/8-1/4th inch shorter, so there is no reason this should be happening.

[Rendon LX-i]

yeah u got a Auto shaft. I saw that right away. U see that 5 speeds are a little Ticker as u showed the old one. Then i see your new one in and its alot skinner. I would take your old one in and your new and and tell them. DO U SEE SOMETHING WRONG lol. Thats got to be it

[FyreDaug]

No thats not possible, I pulled this shaft from the parts car, its a 5spd, and it drove. And the car the pass one came from a 5spd aswell. I know not to get an auto shaft.

What the hell!

[88Accord-DX]

If I remember right, there is a freaking snap ring on the shaft where it goes in the transaxle.. Did you hit the end of the axle hard enough to push it in all the way?

[modu03]

you only have two possibilities...

the shaft is not all the way in the tranny. i've had to get a hammer out and force those things in before.

or, the shaft is not all the way in the steering nuckle. sometimes you have to force those in too.

the axles didn't change between years, so if it came off another 3g 5speed, then there is no reason it should not fit... that axle doesn't look like is't gonna last much longer anyway. you should buy new axles... autozone + pepboys cost about $50... or napa (better quality) go for about $90...

[FyreDaug]

I was told 135 + 20 core for 1 axle. I said fuck that and bought used ones, good enough for now anyways.

The axle is all the way in, you can tell when its in because when you pull on it out it stays in, also I said it looks exactly like the old one did before I pried it out. Its in.

If I have to, I'll go to a wrecker and spend 20 bucks on a different one, theres this one part on the axle at the inner CV I should show you a picture of, it looks strange and I think the shaft might be "stretched" per say. But it still measures shorter.
EDIT: And the axle seems like its in good shape, its all dirty and shit from trying to force it in place.

[FyreDaug]

I just sheared off the head of the bolt that connects the lower control arm to chassis. It was being a real bitch and wouldnt turn. I heated it for damn near 20 mins, soaked it in penetrating oil, then heated it again and I thought it was moving when it turned a little bit, one more turn and it sheared the head off.

Now what do I do? I still cant get the fucking ball joint out of the control arm either.

EDIT: But the driver side is all done, the inner cv was stretched, that was the problem. I just pounded it back into place and its fine, everything lines up perfectly.

[FyreDaug]

Well because something else on this car is siezed (before was balljoints, fucked them up real good trying to take em out, had to spend 160 to replace them) I have to get it towed to a mechanic. I dont have oil in the trans right now and Im missing a suspension to chassis bolt I cant drive it.

I hope its not going to cost too much to drill the bolt out and maybe I can just pay the guy for shop time if I do the rest myself. Aslong as he pulls the balljoint out and drills out that bolt it shouldnt take more than hour. Hopefully keeping all the costs today under $100. I bought anti sieze that I used on every bolt I took off the driver side, and im going to soak all these other bolts in the same shit whenever they get off.

ARG this pisses me off.
Not a problem with the parts car, no, every thing comes off fine, its all easy to remove, only problem was 1 ball joint was siezed. It took me 15mins to strip the axle and all suspension components from the parts car. It took me 7 hours yesterday and close to 3 hours today trying to replace suspension components and drive shafts. Godamn canadian roads and salt

[carotman]

If it sheared off, you're in deep shit. That's one of the WORST bolts on the car. It's even bitchier than the spring perch fork bolt because you do not have access to the other side of the bolt. The only part visible is the head. That bolt doesn't have little grooves in it like the perch bolt. This means it's all seized from the years.

There are 2 solutions to this

1- Cut the lower arm in 2 to expose the bushing. Cut the bushing in 2 and you will be left with the bolt only. Remove the bolt with a vise-grip

2- Cut the bolt between the rear X-member and the lower arm. The lower arm will come out and you will be left with a tiny bit of bolt. Drill the bolt and try to remove it with a bolt extractor. Then, just buy a new bushing.

The 2nd solution is cheaper but might lead to ther problems (like not being able to remove the rest of the bolt...

I have a picture of the 1st option if you want to see them.... it's not pretty hehe

[FyreDaug]

Id like to see anything to help out, and the mechanic can try either of these solutions. Aslong as the bolt comes out and I can put a new one in one way or another I'll be fine. I need this car fixxed within 6 hours to go to work, I doubt thats going to happen. Tow trucks are all booked this morning so I have to wait an hour to get the truck here

[carotman]

You can't drive the car like this and it won't be fixed in 6 hours for sure (sorry to bring the bad news). Putting side load on the lower arm with the wheel on might damage the X-Member if it moves too much.

Here is how I cut the lower arm and bushing to get to the bolt.

I then cut the bolt in half and was able to remove it with vise grips.

I did the other way on the other side (cutting the bolt on the other side of the lower arm) but it was a pain to insert the bolt extractor.

[FyreDaug]

I know I cant drive it, I got it towed to the place thats 1.3km away. He said by tomorrow. I have my gf's car for tonight

[modu03]

now what do I do? I still cant get the fucking ball joint out of the control arm either.

you need a tool called a pitman arm puller... it looks like this (adjustable + non-adjustable types: http://www.jcwhitney.com/wcsstore/jcwhitney/images/imagecache/10015539.gif

if this doesn't get it out nothing will... i have had to use it everytime i have removed my balljoints. the one pictured is like $26, but you should be able to find a cheaper one. i think i paid $12

[FyreDaug]

I paid about 12 for mine. It sucks, I bent it. My mechanic used an air pickel fork, no problem. :(

[FyreDaug]

Well $220 some later I got it fixxed. Everything that I got done includes:
Both drive shafts, both front struts, both lower control arms, better bushings for both sides on the sway bar and tightened radius rods. My alignment is a little off, but I think its because the radius rods were loose. I'll grab new bushings tomorrow and throw em and and try the alignment myself. Its wont be perfect, but hopefully I can fix wheel offset

[Oldblueaccord]

Well $220 some later I got it fixxed. Everything that I got done includes:
Both drive shafts, both front struts, both lower control arms, better bushings for both sides on the sway bar and tightened radius rods. My alignment is a little off, but I think its because the radius rods were loose. I'll grab new bushings tomorrow and throw em and and try the alignment myself. Its wont be perfect, but hopefully I can fix wheel offset

Radius rods should only effect the caster setting. thats the least one to worry about. Use NEW nylock bolts on the ends. Double nuts ,locknuts wont cut it. Dont ask me how I know this. :cool:

wp

[FyreDaug]

Well the wheel is a little to the left when I drive straight, and when I let go when its at that angle it goes pretty much straight. I dont think Ive ever owned a car with perfect alignment. And I am not spending 50 some dollars to get it done right now, I need a tank of gas, and thats close to 50

[POS carb]

the a/t shafts are a tad longer on the inputs (where they connect to the trans) than the 5-speed ones. An a/t shaft will pop out on a manual trans after a few days

if the ball joint doesn't line up, you need to adjust the radius rod which connects the lower control arm (2 14mm bolts) to the front frame (1 deep socket 17mm nut) those rods are adjustable length. Your parts car had a shitty alignment apparently

[FyreDaug]

You didnt read the rest of the thread did you POS_carb