Discussion , Non-traditional Remote Mounted Turbo Systems

[toastyghost]

The first few posts are a little off topic, read on to get to the parts about remote turbo systems.




One great way to increase your performance is with 800-lb chrome wheels. :D
Seriously though here's a few ideas:
If you're going to have to custom jimmy-rig an intake you might as well make it a cold air intake instead of short ram. The performance gains are nominal with either but CAI is a little better because it extends to the wheel well or behind the headlight where it can get cool outside air instead of hot engine bay air.
The Pacesetter headers themselves are ok from what I've heard. The only complaints I've read about them were that the thermal coat peels and consequently performance gain starts degrading. That's not a major problem, just get Wal-mart paint stripper spray.. I forget exactly what it is, search the board for "wal-mart" or something to find the thread. Use the stripper to take the black coating off (cheap Pacesetters on NOPI) then spray your own high-temp thermal coating on them.
Someone was talking about they were running a 30 shot of nitrous with a cheap kit they found.. which would be ok except they were advancing their timing when they should have been retarding it. So ask that dude where he got his NAWZ kit (again use search to figure out who the fuck that is, I'd do it for you but I'm lazy). Then if you're going to use it I think they said retard ignition 1 degree.. this prevents the NAWZ from detonating and hurting the engine.
Hmm.. cheap performance...
Oh yeah, another thing you might want to look into is possibly making a "junkyard dog" turbo kit out of parts from salvage cars. The old Saab 900 T should have a lot of what you need to do this. You'll want to get the turbo itself, the coolant feed/return lines and the oil pan tap piece, and probably can use the downpipe and flange from the intake manifold. The flange will have to be broken and re-welded to a custom manifold. I was reading somewhere that a dude built a low-boost turbo kit good for maybe 80 hp (?) or so on a budget of about 600 bucks, by hitting his local salvage yards. Gains = 80 on stock internals, pretty damn sweet if you ask me.
That's all I can think of at the moment.
Good luck! Smoke dem damn Eclipses!!

[Twisted 87lxi]

Speaking of turbos, I heard that you need some sort of "approved" sticker on your turbo if it has been specially modified in any way in order to show that it is street legal, is this from the DOT or what? Or is it not even true? (I don't know turbo's) Anyone?

[1988starter]

Here is an idea for those of you who don't want to build a manifold
http://i.b5z.net/i/u/1473169/f/Press/STS_THP.pdf

[MIK3]

Interesting, however, I wouldn't think it would be as effective being that it's located where it's at. That, and hell, there goes 4 grand if you ever have something hit the bottem of your car, heh. Cool concept either way.

[1988starter]

I thought the same thing at first but look how high it is It would be hella hard to actually scrape it besides If it was me I wuls fabricate a small cage to protect it.

[Dutchboy]

I think that its a good idea if you cant fit a turbo under the hood!
PLus when your racing people on the street and they ask you how the heck your car is so fast and you pop the hood and show them that its just "stock" then theyll be very confused and taken by the shear power of your stock looking car and engine when theyre running a hopped up little civic or some pocket rocket.
I love Turbos!! good to see new ideas coming out!

[88accordhb]

manifold turbo is soo much better. it's closer to intake mani, you wont need all that long charger and ic piping and yah if you hit something,there goes the turbo.

very interesting tho

[smufguy]

in 2003 SCC featured that turbo system. It was proven to be worthwhile for trucks and suvs, but it was just too much work and only smaller turbos can be used. This is the same concept of the underhood turbos, but only with low boost and very unefficient method. They ran another article in the following month, critizing it.

[NXRacer]

i saw an installation of one of those on a camaro. I thought that a system like that wouldnt make boost for shit, but from what i understand, its pretty close to a manifold turbo and much easier to install. It is a lot more of a PITA to route pipes and stuff.

personally, i wouldnt want to worry about an expensive and somewhat fragile turbo getting crapped on all the time by being under the back of the car.

[danronian]

If I were to install one on a street car I would probably mike a protrusion in the trunk area so it would actually be at about the level of the trunk floor. It sounds like a great idea and all but I couldn't see having something like that hanging beneath your car, it seems like a great idea for a race car, but not a daily driver. I can't see them selling well to the normal person with a SUV or big pickup b/c can you imagine how fast that thing would get trashed going off-roading!

[b8er]

its a neat idea yes, its been out for awhile yes,its about the only way you'll get a turbo on a car with a small engine bay yes, but the downside i see is that a turbo runs off the exhaust gass' and heat from the engine, thats what actually turns the blades , as far as i know, and from what i can see , the farther away the turbo is from the exhaust manifold i worse its gonna perform or the more lag your going to have, and as we all know lag is the number 1 downfall for a turbo and for me i just wouldnt use it, there would be to much lag for and like some of you guys have said before if you do happen to scrap a rock or anything along those lines its pretty much toast

[NXRacer]

turbo's do not run off hot hot gasses, its the exhaust that turns the compressor wheel. The only problem i can see is that it'll take a longer time to spool the turbo since the exhaust has such a long time to go before it enters the turbo. Doing a muffler turbo would eliminate the need for an intercooler.

[smufguy]

turbo's do not run off hot hot gasses, its the exhaust that turns the compressor wheel.

its true, but the efficiency of the turbo does depend on exhaust gas temperature as their decline in temperatue with time reduces their velocity leading to bad spool time. Which u did mention after. Thermal efficiency is what all turbos fight to maintain because of their exposed exhaust housing. Thats why vendors sell wraps for turbo housing, mainly the exhaust housing to prevent heat loss and also reduce underhood temperatures via radiation. But like we all said, this set up in the scc and turbo mag blow, they might make pretty much the same power, but putting them on the graphs, and looking at their efficiency, it would not be the same or even preferable.

[b8er]

"but the efficiency of the turbo does depend on exhaust gas temperature as their decline in temperatue with time reduces their velocity leading to bad spool time"


this is what i was tring to say, not the gasses but the exhaust gas temperatrures, sorrry about that

[nismoracer99]

wut about rain?? wouldn't it get sucked up into the intake, and also water get on the turbo, making it corrode?

[Robs89LXi]

Actually, exhaust gasses travel very fast. Crank up your car, and see how long it takes to exit the tailpipe; it is almost instantaneous, and that is at idle. Heat does not matter too much either, as it is pressure differential accross a pump that tells it's efficiency. With the exhaust of the turbo now being a very short distance, you greatly reduce the exit pressure, thus requiring less inlet pressure to have the same efficiency. This is of course for the hot side, and when speaking of spool time, that is what you are concerned with. Conversely though, the opposite could be said for the cool side. With a much longer charge pipe, one would expect more back pressure on the compressor side of the turbo, thus hindering it's rotation, but this is where a properly sized turbo will help. Pressure in the charge pipe will be almost instantaneous also, especially if it is sized/routed correctly. Our cars have good low end torque, which would help the initial spooling process, then after that, the boost will do the rest. True, this will not be a great setup for instant boost from idle, but then again, who doesn't rev up their engine before dropping the clutch?

[snow_man_20]

wut about rain?? wouldn't it get sucked up into the intake, and also water get on the turbo, making it corrode?


Yeah i was thinking rain and puddles too. Turbos are hot and i don't think cold water would be good on it. It would almost have to be a summer only ride, hot and dry. And a CAI filter every 1000 miles.

[g2driver]

Why do you all say a muffler and a tip? Wouldn't a tip if anything, restict exhaust flow?

[bobafett]

i doomed myself in this thread. my best 1/4 mile time IS a 16.6 lol

[Micah 89LXi]

why dont you be the first of us to get one of these
http://www.ststurbo.com/home its a remote mounted turbo....turbo is something like 200degrees cooler because its under the car at the back...they have a universal kit for $3k thing is i dont know if our cars can take 5psi boost stock...but this is an option i dont think anyone has discussed or considered..as i just found out about them..but just look at the dyno's and vids...they are insane..and even if it just made 200 bhp with 5psi of boost..do some engine beefing and you could take it up more...and even if not..200bhp for our cars would be nice and quick..oh yeah no need for a lot of the electronics in this kit...it takes out the need for a turbo timer and all that and its supposed to have almost no lag

[Micah 89LXi]

have you guys heard of or tried this?

http://www.ststurbo.com/home its a remote mounted turbo....turbo is something like 200degrees cooler because its under the car at the back...they have a universal kit for $3k thing is i dont know if our cars can take 5psi boost stock...but this is an option i dont think anyone has discussed or considered..as i just found out about them..but just look at the dyno's and vids...they are insane..and even if it just made 200 bhp with 5psi of boost..do some engine beefing and you could take it up more...and even if not..200bhp for our cars would be nice and quick..oh yeah no need for a lot of the electronics in this kit...it takes out the need for a turbo timer and all that and its supposed to have almost no lag..plus they make a kit for the integra..and im thinking...mod???..the universal kit would probably work...FI only of course..all u do is run the piping...and an oil return line for the new oil pump and wire it..it supposed to take like 3 hours to install and 2 hours to take it off...i dont know//but im thinking its a viable option for anyone really serious about making a sleeper

[Justin86]

http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=44974

[gp02a0083]

yah ive seen it and they use liek in chevys the inner rear wheel well for the intake and tey give ya a cone filter with a filter "sock" it is im pressive being the pipe lengths on chevy's and trucks , makes me wonder with our 3 g's being very short in comparson that it might creaate some decent #'s

ive also heard that they make a injection of some sort to cool in intake air

[mr eff]

i don't see how running any amount of boost WOULDN'T require engine tuning... i want to believe, but it sounds too good to be true. "bolt on turbo" -- psh!!

[ICEMAN707]

i've been wondering of doing that for sometime. now that article i read on HCI magazine about it proves my theory that it works. but i wouldn't buy that kit. $4000??? yeah right. for that much money i can build it myself cheaper. just get a reground cam, i get to keep my dc header, apexi afc, 1g dsm turbo injectors, FPR, walbro pump or chevy camaro v8 fuel pump, msd coil and ignition box, ractive 3-core wires, ngk plugs, ball bearing turbo, custom piping with ceramic coating, b-series high-flow intake manifold (edelbrock victor x maybe), etc. etc.

i'm thinking of using two small twin turbos from the mitsu 3000gt vr4's, mazda rx7's, or nissan 300zx's for fast spool up and big boost.

[bigal004321]

i have seen on of those rear mounted turbos... i really dont know if the idea is such a good one...

If you think how turbos work it makes more sense for them to be at the hottest point...

since it takes the super hot air from the exhaust and it leaves quickly to spin the turbine in the turbo causing the fresh air into the car a x psi....

also think why would u want one under the car??? think about it u would need some sort of oil sender to send oil all the way back there and road condidtions say u hit a bump fuck there goes my 5k turbo smashed to bits

This is just my opionion

[mr eff]

heat doesn't increase the velocity of the exhaust, just the volume.. pv = nrt. so you really don't "lose" any turbine-driving power from having the thing mounted back there.

however, sending the charge for a few feet seems as though it would cause lag. also, you're right about the oil, you'll have to figure out a way to make that work.

i dunno, i'm intrigued, it sounds like a decent set up to add without having to rearrange the engine bay extensively. there's pros and cons to any modification

[FyreDaug]

The exhaust gasses are also more dense at the rear as it cools down, so the exhaust stacks up on itself and it would spool quicker. I think anyways

[Justin86]

or even run twin :D

[ICEMAN707]

justin why are you always smilin' bro? lol. is this what you did to your "tasha" and it works?

anyways, back to topic.

i was thinking of changing the downpipe on my dc header to connect to the turbo. either have the turbo located in the battery location OR that extra space between the transmission and the firewall right below the brake proportioning valve. sorta like the setup for my previous 93 probe gt turbo kit:

http://www.twmotorsports.net/img/turbo/probemanifolds001.jpg
http://www.twmotorsports.net/img/turbo/probemanifolds007.jpg

with a remote setup, you save space and the turbo will last alot longer since it will be exposed to cooler exhaust temperatures.

[w00tw00t111]

FyreDaug is right. Think back to chemistry class. The colder air is the more dense it is. So there for the more dense the air is before it hits the actual turbo the less the turbo has to do to compress/spool up. Seeing as though some of it's job is already done. I have really really considered this option seeing as though I want to keep my a/c *stupid Houston >(* The biggest problem is the time that it's gonna take for the compressed air to go and reach the intake. The air would have most definatley lost some of its velocity. The only thing that might happen is lets say you program it for 8lbs of boost once the air reaches the engine bay it might have dropped down to 6lbs. So, you would probably have to just account for that. Lag should increase but depending on how the whole system is set up it might not make that much of a differece. Turbo and fuel maps should make a big big difference on how much lag you experience. Also, the mistake that I see a bunch of guys making is their choices in wastegates. I read an article in turbo *i believe* which showed a duel stage wastegate. Us guys go really cheap on those components and seeing as though it was about 500 buckaroos it's out of most budget guys range. The thing that is so awesome about it is the fact that it completely elimates any lag what so-ever *as quoted by Turbo* Basically what happens is you set a really boost level for the first stage so that the turbo reaches it immediately then while your reaching higher and higher rpms it starts building more and more pressure which eventually will push you into the second stage. This is an extremely simplified explanation but, if you want all the technical jargon I can try to dig up the article and scan it for y'all. HKS I believe are the designers of it.

[bigal004321]

right thats what i was trying to say fyre... seems like alot of money on a setup that wouldnt be the most efficient.. not too many people have the setups i was shocked when i heard of it on this guys car i saw...

also one of the cool reason for the turbo is to show people it right? with one of these u would have to be like crawl under my car to check it out.. mind the dirt its good for it :P

[A20A1]

heat doesn't increase the velocity of the exhaust, just the volume.. pv = nrt.



How would you factor in the added volume of running a longer pipe from the manifold to the turbo.

http://www.7stones.com/Homepage/Publisher/Thermo1.html

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[w00tw00t111]

heat will increase pressure obviously but cold will increase volume. In an engine you want more volume not more pressure. But when people talk about psi = pressure per square inch they just forget that the whole reason that you have a turbo is to cram more air into a given amount of space. You want to increase the volume of air not necissarily increase the pressure. B/c as every body knows the more air you have in a given chamber the more fuel you can have and more fuel+ more air = bigger explosion and bigger explosion = more power.

[smufguy]

the rear mount turbos are for engines of higher displacement, like a V8 or a V6 with a 3.5 and up. This is because the there is somethign called boost lag that is associated with longer pipes. Air is not stationary in those pipes and they have the move around. So the rear mount turbos for a 4cyl, 2.0 is not gonna work to the expected level (dont ask me if the motor is build and what not, its just not gonna work).

Higher the temperature, greater the potential energy. As the temperature decreases, the energy of the gases lowers because heat energy is just as any form of energy and once you decrease the energy everything associated with it decreases, as in the pressure and velocity. Think of it as a pressure cooker, when the water in the cooker is cool, there is not much steam or pressure, once it starts to heat up and boil, u see a lot of steam, higher pressure and higher velocity. The same with the exhaust gases, higher the temperature greater the work potential of those gases, even tho there is only so much the exhaust gas temperature (EGT) can go up to before it starts to act negatively on the parts. This is not basic physics but its basic thermodynamics and part of heat laws.

and higher the temperature and dense the gas can never be true even in a controlled volume. so its a bad way to think at it frye. The reason behind it is what i stated in my above paragraph. Its not the dense of the gas, its the greater potential energy and work force of the gas. the way you guys are looking at it is by comparing the charge air being dense and getting more power. LIke Mike (a20a1) has tried to say many times before, colder exhaust gas is not a good worker. Its not gonna make your turbo spool up any faster, to be honest with you, its gonna make your turbo spool up very slow. So stop giving and aiding with wrong and mis informations before you start supporting and promoting it. Its better someone with a thermodynamic of fluid properties and a physics background verify these things before you go and do something irrational.


Final words on the rear mount turbos, dont even attempt, cause if you do, Ill be one of the first ones to laugh at your ass (you here is anyone, no-one in particular).

[A20A1]

The exhaust gasses are also more dense at the rear as it cools down, so the exhaust stacks up on itself and it would spool quicker. I think anyways


I'm just thinking there will be a drop in velocity cause of the longer pipe, but the expansion from the extra volume would cool the exhaust and supposedly the cooler exhaust with their different turbo specs works. But I don't like the idea that the exhaust is moving slower... it may build pressure but isn't it pressure both ways.

If heat effects density... isn't less dense gas easier to move so the velocity would be higher?

[A20A1]

the rear mount turbos are for engines of higher displacement, like a V8 or a V6 with a 3.5 and up. This is because the there is somethign called boost lag that is associated with longer pipes. Air is not stationary in those pipes and they have the move around. So the rear mount turbos for a 4cyl, 2.0 is not gonna work to the expected level (dont ask me if the motor is build and what not, its just not gonna work).

Higher the temperature, greater the potential energy. As the temperature decreases, the energy of the gases lowers because heat energy is just as any form of energy and once you decrease the energy everything associated with it decreases, as in the pressure and velocity. Think of it as a pressure cooker, when the water in the cooker is cool, there is not much steam or pressure, once it starts to heat up and boil, u see a lot of steam, higher pressure and higher velocity. The same with the exhaust gases, higher the temperature greater the work potential of those gases, even tho there is only so much the exhaust gas temperature (EGT) can go up to before it starts to act negatively on the parts. This is not basic physics but its basic thermodynamics and part of heat laws.

and higher the temperature and dense the gas can never be true even in a controlled volume. so its a bad way to think at it frye. The reason behind it is what i stated in my above paragraph. Its not the dense of the gas, its the greater potential energy and work force of the gas. the way you guys are looking at it is by comparing the charge air being dense and getting more power. LIke Mike (a20a1) has tried to say many times before, colder exhaust gas is not a good worker. Its not gonna make your turbo spool up any faster, to be honest with you, its gonna make your turbo spool up very slow. So stop giving and aiding with wrong and mis informations before you start supporting and promoting it. Its better someone with a thermodynamic of fluid properties and a physics background verify these things before you go and do something irrational.


Final words on the rear mount turbos, dont even attempt, cause if you do, Ill be one of the first ones to laugh at your ass (you here is anyone, no-one in particular).



Thanks for posting that.

[NXRacer]

if its not any cheaper then building your own, they why do a remote turbo setup? it is less effecient then a standard turbo setup. the only reason this would be a good idea is if you dont have any room in your engine bay for a turbo setup, which isnt a problem in our cars.

I saw one of those setups on TV or something and it was installed on a new camaro. Seeing how the engine bay in those things is really retarded, i could see how that would be a better option then a standard turbo setup, but kinda pointless on an import that has a TON of extra space.

just my $.02

[ICEMAN707]

i just like the idea of working with what i have. keeping my dc header instead of paying $500+ for a custom turbo manifold. plus like i said, with a remote mounted turbo, it's less likely to be exposed to extreme temps and eventually lead to failure.

[A20A1]

heat will increase pressure obviously but cold will increase volume. In an engine you want more volume not more pressure. But when people talk about psi = pressure per square inch they just forget that the whole reason that you have a turbo is to cram more air into a given amount of space. You want to increase the volume of air not necissarily increase the pressure. B/c as every body knows the more air you have in a given chamber the more fuel you can have and more fuel+ more air = bigger explosion and bigger explosion = more power.

Hypotheticly if there is no pressure gas would just sit in the pipe and the turbine would not spin at all.

A question for both setups rear and front for a 4cylinder motor.

1) How much gas is expelled on the initial firing of the engine
2) How hot is the gas expelled?


I know it's not the temp that makes boost but you have to consider more then the density of the air before the turbo. Do you think a 4cyl is up to the task no matter how dense the charge is.

A denser gas charge is harder to move and you'll increase the motors pumping loss even though you are increasing efficiency by adding a turbo and pressurizing the intake charge. Even then the length of the charge pipes add losses, from friction and weight.

One thing I do like is less heat in the engine bay since that effects a whole lot of things. But putting a turbo near a gas tank... I've had problems with excessive fuel vapor by simply putting an exhaust pipe too close to the tank, I dunno. I hope they sheild the tank real good.

I don't believe the part on the STS site about not adding a header... if you have a restrictive cast manifold from the factory a header would help, a street header, not the large tube high performance headers ment for N/A.

[NXRacer]

turbo's are meant to handle and work with extreme heat. Its one of the working properties of a turbo. As long as you have a correct setup installed, the turbo will last a lot longer then the motor will. Esp if you add an oil cooler and stuff that helps keep the turbo temp down even more.

[Accordtheory]

That squires turbo sytem is sort of an interesting idea. At first, I totally wrote it off as half assed bullshit, but then after spending like half an hour on their site, I am impressed. They are right as far as the volume of exhaust gas driving the turbo is the same, but heat=volume=velocity=more energy..a conventional system IS more efficient. However, what difference does it really make? They are still putting down some damn good numbers. But for a car like an integra, I would do what all those guys on honda-tech.com are doing and use something like a top mount turbo header and a big ass sc61. I also find myself wondering how hot the rest of the exhaust system gets, and I don't like the idea of that long ass intake tubing.

[ICEMAN707]

i was skeptical of a remote mounted turbo too until i read this article:



....mounting the turbocharger and
related hardware somewhere dse
in the car, like at the rear of the
vehicle, can be out of necessity
and can drastically minimize
the installation complexity due
to the fact that it's easier to
install.
Naturally, considering such
a setup raises a number of
questions; that's to be expected.
What about potential turbo lag
and pressure drop that would
normally be associatedwith
lengthy turbo plumbing from
the turbo to the throttle body?
How do you lubricate the turbo
with it located so far away from
the engine? How much power
would this kit develop? How
does the boost control work? All
of these, and perhaps others,
are relevant questions, and we
had the same questions when
we first learned of such a
unique product. Heres what
we've learned.
Squires Turbo Systems
(STS) was founded by Rick
Squires in January of 2003, and
it designed and patented the
remote-mounted turbo system.
Squires identified both the need
and the opportunity to use the
benefits of turbocharging in a
much friendlier turbo environ-
ment, and STShas done this
for both cars and trucks. Using
his 20 years of forced induction
experience, a: Squires and his
group developed the STS
Remote Turbo System so that
anyone, regardless of their
application, could experience a
gain of up to 60 percent in
horsepower without additional
or major modifications to the
engine. We thought that this
would be an ideal case and not
every installation would realize
such gains, but one of the reasons
the STS Remote Mount
Turbo System is said to work so
well is because one of the more
detrimental elements to performance
is removed from the
equation: heat.
For starters, having the turbocharger
mounted outside of a
hot engine compartment where
airflow is impeded as a result of
being cramped and nestled
between and behind radiators,
shrouds, gussets and engine
accessories can make it increasingly
difficult for a turbocharger
to operate. Naturally, this does
not make for such a turbofriendly
environment. And this
is especially true when compared
to an install where the turbo has
adequate room and is surrounded
by cool ambient air.
Remember also that unless the
turbo is fed cool outside air, this
is the same environment as a
turbocharger airflow drawn and
processed through a turbo compressor:
hot air going in and
hotter air going out, even with
an intercooler. Cooler air will
also extend the life of the oil, and it is engine oil
that lubricates the turbo bearings.
The unique patented oil system STS developed
also uses the oil from the engine just like a
conventional engine-mounted turbo, but this
system incorporates an;lectric oil pump
mounted underneath the car.An adapter is
installed at the oil filter source, and after the oil
cools the turbo bearings, pressurized oil returns
to the engine via a specially modified cap with a
quick-disconnect fitting at the valve cover. Oil is
cooled on its way to and from the turbo since it
must now travel underneath the vehicle where
the oil line surface is subjected to cooler air. The
same is true for the intake piping from the turbo
to the throttle body. This may seem confusing to
some tuners since most ~nstall plans have been
devised to make intercooler piping as short as
possible (to minimize turbo lag). This train of
thought now differs, as air traveling through IS
feet of intake tubing should make for a turbolag-
prone engine. At least that is the natural
conclusion and has been the result of past experience.
The length of the intake piping can and
does contribute to turbo lag, but this is not the
only conn-oiling factor. as the design of the turbine
itself has a great effect on such delays and,
by design, helps offset lag. Considering that the
air charge still must travel from the turbo to the
throttle body. a properly sized turbo can have
minimal lag. or so we are told. In fact, Squires
compensates for the 2s-percent loss in exhaust
volume associated with a remote mount system
by employing a carefully designed turbine for
each application.
The other question asked by people who are
first exposed to such a system is generally in
regards to intake air temperature. How is this
air cooled. and does it differ from a conventional
design? With the STS turbo system, nearly 90
percent of the intake piping is exposed to the
ambient air underneath the vehicle. and this
exposure acts as a sort of intercooler but with-
out the pressure drop. With an
ambient air temperature of 60
degrees Fahrenheit, the air temperature
at the turbo outlet is
approximately 175degrees. This
cools to a more reasonable temp due
to its journey through the inlet
tubing. The intake tubing is
treated with an HPC coating
that dissipates heat, further aiding
the cooling of the intake
charge. The exhaust piping is
also coated with HPC, which
helps it to retain the heat necessary
for proper turbo operation.
Driving Impression
We drove this system, and
found it to perform exceptionally
well for its intended use. For our
driving impression, we experienced
the performance of the
STS turbo system installed on a
'00 Acura Integra Type-R. Of
course we were skeptical, as the
first thing on our minds when
we climbed into the seat of the
STS-equipped Integra was that
there was no possible way that
the car could respond nearly as
well as an engine-mounted
turbo. We figured the throttle
response would be dampened,
but we were wrong, as power
delivery was almost immediate
with little to no lag. The driving
test consisted of a drag-style
launch from a standstill through
a short straight section and then
through a couple of chicanes
before heading into a long
sweeper. The course was
designed to put the car and the
turbo system through an "extreme case" pace
to exhibit the overall operating characteristics
of the STS turbo system. When launched
from a standstill, the boost in the Type-R
came on quickly, and the car pulled strong all
the way to redline.]ach shift placed you
smack in the middle of the power band
where boost would build quickly-and it
did.
As we drove the car through the chicanes,
the throttle was modulated, and the
engine responded as quickly as you toyed the
throttle. This removed any doubts of dampened
engine (throttle) response, and we were
pleasantly surprised. Heading toward the
long sweeper, we were able to test the linearity
of the STS turbo system by allowing the
turbo to build boost by rolling on the throttle.
Again, the STS system delivered the
goods just fine by building boost at a linear
and predictable manner and without the
unpredictable (Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde)
response of some engine mount systems.
The STS system produced torque reminiscent
of a high-output V-6 (at least thats
what it felt like), and torque delivery was virtually
seamless-the engine continued to
pull until redline, and it did this consistently.
We ran out of road long before we ran out
of power.
Needless to say, from our limited experience,
the STS turbo system rocks when it
comes to power delivery. And the rearmounted
turbo system allows you to enjoy
all the great sounds associated with boosting
an engine without it being drowned out by a
loud, obnoxious silencer (the turbo replaces
this piece of equipment). This setup will get
you noticed, as its just loud enough to raise
the eyebrows of fellow onlookers but not law
enforcement.
Since none of the pollution control
devices that come with newer cars need to be
removed or modified during this installation,
theres no worry about the legality of
such a system. The STS turbo system is
mounted after the catalytic converters, and
since the turbo acts as a muffler, theres no
worry about noise pollution. The STS turbo
system is 50-state CARB legal (CARB
exemption pending), which is good news for
those of you who live in a state where smog
testing is performed. The STS turbo definite-
Iyexceeded our expectations and shattered
any preconceived notions we had about such
a system. And what impressed us the most
was the power output of the STS-equipped
Integra Type-R; with the wastegate set at 10
psi, the engine produced over 300 hp at the
wheels.
The STS turbo system produces great
power and performs better than imagined,
and one of the most appealing aspects of the
system in addition to its performance is its
simplicity. A capable technician can install
the STS turbo system in approximately 4-6
hours, which is a terrific turnaround when
turbocharging a vehicle. Initially, STS only
had applications for select trUcks, sport utility
vehicles, F-body platforms and the new
Pontiac GTO, but by the time you read this,
STS will have kits available for Honda and
Acura applications. Imagine this system
installed in a lightWeight Civic hatchback
with a built engine, ported head and a set of
hot camshafts. It would be a force to be reckoned
with, thats for sure.
STS also offers a variety of upgrades that
will help elevate the level of performance of
its system: methanol injection, GT Turbo
upgrade, intercoolers and CARB-Iegal modifications.
This rather unique turbo system
may possibly be the solution for newer vehicles
that aren't friendly to forced induction
due to their complex fuel systems or
overzealous emission control units. As STS
expands its offerings in the sport compact
market, more tuner enthusiasts who were
previously ignored by mainstream turbocharging
specialists will be boosting with
the best of them. With a price tag in the
$4,000 area, the STS remote turbo system is
competitively priced with many mainstream
systems on the market, only this is one very
unique system.

[ICEMAN707]

rather than have the turbos hanging under the rear of the car, put them in the trunk so they wont be exposed to the elements like rain and dust.

haha imagine running twin turbos in your trunk, with plumbing from underneath. cut out some side scoops on the side trunk panels to cool the turbos even more and ram air for the intake. enclose the turbos with custom heat insulated removable metal boxes/enclosures with only the intake inlets sticking out into the trunk each with cone filters. this in itself will defy all the myths of turbo intallation.

imagine two blow off valves going off in your trunk (although you'd want the BOV close to the throttle body). but regardless, that's gotta be a sight to see and hear. not to mention along with your trunk relocated battery and a NOS bottle or two. what next? remote electric powered a/c as opposed to pulley powered? :lol:

[A20A1]

turbo's are meant to handle and work with extreme heat. Its one of the working properties of a turbo. As long as you have a correct setup installed, the turbo will last a lot longer then the motor will. Esp if you add an oil cooler and stuff that helps keep the turbo temp down even more.



"The exhaust piping is also coated with HPC, which helps it to retain the heat necessary for proper turbo operation."




"And what impressed us the most
was the power output of the STS-equipped
Integra Type-R; with the wastegate set at 10
psi, the engine produced over 300 hp at the
wheels."


Those are good numbers but I assume it's not a stock teg B18C5... or if it is not many people own a B18C5. I also don't know what RPM the 300hp came at and what the rest of the HP and TQ curves looked like.


In no way have I said the STS doesn't work... I'm trying to point out specific areas that might need more attention. There is more then one way to skin a cat as they say. It's good to have information about these things so you can weigh your options.




I'd rather keep the turbo cool as well as the engine bay but still retain heat inside the exhaust pipes leading to and from the turbo. The only reason for keeping the turbo cool as possible would be to help the compressor side of the turbo keep the air cooler. As long as the turbo is far from the radiator and intercooler you're not reheading the intercooled air with the turbo being so close.

I wouldn't mount the turbo as far back as they do, but I woudln't want to butt the turbo near the radiator or any other part of the motor.
I would install the turbo where the battery was and carefully plumb the upper radiator hose.

The plumbing for the charge pipes would be simmilar to most front mounts and may even be shorter... the down pipe would be longer to connect to a full exhaust system but thats after the turbo and it doesn't matter as much.

[ICEMAN707]

i guess the only way to find out is to try. marioburke is installing his turbo at the downpipe so we'll see how that goes.


I am gonna go a rear motor turbo first to see if it works. there are various reason behind this I do not feel like discussing at the moment

go mario! :rockon:

[Accordtheory]

the squires system does have a significant advantage when it comes to smog legality, I'll definitely give it that..

[NXRacer]

veewwwyyyy veewwwyyyy intewesting

[PikesPeak3G]

rather than have the turbos hanging under the rear of the car, put them in the trunk so they wont be exposed to the elements like rain and dust.

haha imagine running twin turbos in your trunk, with plumbing from underneath. cut out some side scoops on the side trunk panels to cool the turbos even more and ram air for the intake. enclose the turbos with custom heat insulated removable metal boxes/enclosures with only the intake inlets sticking out into the trunk each with cone filters. this in itself will defy all the myths of turbo intallation.

imagine two blow off valves going off in your trunk (although you'd want the BOV close to the throttle body). but regardless, that's gotta be a sight to see and hear. not to mention along with your trunk relocated battery and a NOS bottle or two. what next? remote electric powered a/c as opposed to pulley powered? :lol:
Ive been contemplating doing just that on my LXi just for R&D. Also instead of running an oil line all the way back to the front of the car why not a remote tank with a pump just dedicated for the turbo, also in the trunk area. Then you could also run an oil cooler if you wanted or use a different viscocity oil. Just thinking outside the box.

[ICEMAN707]

yeah a separate oil tank and pump would be a good idea. no hot and dirty engine oil going into the turbo. keeps it cooler and cleaner.

also the reason i pick the 2 twin turbos from 3000gt's and 300zx's is cus they are smaller and spool up faster despite the long exhaust pipe to the back. and with two of them working together, boost pressure should be pretty good.

[bigal004321]

see two turbos are good in a good way.. but if you look at all the fast cars out there they always upgrade from twin turbos to one big turbo.... single turbos are good for the low end and twin turbos are good for high end....

plus i heard that the most effiecnt turbo is one that is glowing red since it is gettting those hot atoms going threw very fast thus turning the turbine that fast.....

[FyreDaug]

single turbos are good for the low end and twin turbos are good for high end....

Isnt that backwards?

[86AccordLxi]

Yeah, I think it is.

Alex

[justin89]

Yeah, I think it is.

Alex
it is backwards but it all depends on how you stage the twin setup.
:deal:

[ICEMAN707]

normally the stock twin turbos on the 3000gt's and 300zx's are there versus a big turbo because of turbo lag. two small twin turbos will spin much faster and produce the same boost result when they work together as a slightly bigger single turbo. UNLESS you get a super huge turbo like a t78/t88, then you get more results but it takes a fully built 6 or 8 cylinder engine to spin those with little to no lag.

i dont see how a remote turbo couldn't work. you might get good boost, you might not. it all depends on your piping and turbo size choice. you could have your freeflow piping bottleneck from 2.5" to 2.25" to 2" to increase the exhaust velocity spinning the turbines faster. as the boost kicks in, the more exhaust velocity develops from the increased combustion. it's like a chain effect. of course a good intake and exhaust system is key: cam, Edelbrock Victor X IM (or any good aftermarket brand), freeflow or no cat, headers, polished/ported head and IM, bored out/porter/polished throttle body, etc. etc. ....also the fuel and spark upgrades needed to support all that increased airflow.

anyways, for a remote application, a small turbo is the way to go. to get more boost, you simply need to run twin turbos...or 3 (lol)...with all that space in the back, why not?

particularly good are hybrid turbos like a t3/t4. a big turbo probably won't spin fast enough that the only way IS to have them mounted right at the exhaust manifold exposing them to hot engine conditions. shit, if you can get small stock turbos cheap enough from junkyards, you can try running 3 :lol:

either on fork Y-split:

0---\
0---->----
0---/

or along the pipeline in a staged setup: -----0--0--0

of course with all those turbos your car would sound like a turbine jet engine :lol: that's a lot of intake and exhaust piping, oil lines, and vaccum lines for the wastegate actuators to run though. or if you have turbos that have coolant lines, that's additional too.

[A20A1]

Too much pressure.
>

Well I've looked and looked for a definative answer to reversion and everyone seems to be floating aound the same area but not in the same way. So I'll try to make some sense of it.

They say exhaust gasses can either be pushed or pulled into the intake via reversion.
The problem is which is it or is it both under different circumsances?
The timing of the events differ slightly also.

We know it's a pressure difference between the intake, cylinder, and exhaust. But also the valve timing and tuned length of the header and intake.

Some argue that reversion is the Intakes fault while others say it's exhaust, and then there are those that say it's both.

Some say it's a positive pressure that causes reversion while others say that the negative returning wave is the reversion wave, but they offer no explanation on how this adds to scavenging, though some say that it is the reflected wave off of the closed exhaust valve that creates the scaventing.

What I've read and come to understand the negative wave as the expansion wave, which is supposed to move exhaust gasses opposite the direction the wave travels in, thus it creates a suction, this is the scavenging wave.

So when if at all does this positive wave come into play, I don't think it does unless it's a refelcted positive wave from a muffer baffle or a cone in the exhaust pipe with a decreasing diameter. Since a positive wave would push gasses back towards the cylinder.
Supposedly a reflected wave from a closed exhaust valve will still be negative and so it will flow gasses in the opposite direction that it travels in. So if the reflected wave travels away from the exhaust valve, that means it draws exhaust gas back towards the cylinders.
I could be wrong though.

Most agree the reversion takes place on the upstroke as the intake valve is opening and the exhaust valve is open (Overlap Period). This is when you want the scavenging wave to meet so that it daws out all the gasses.


http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?p=537346

anyways, turbo pretty much negates the pressure waves, but I tried to add some things on why heat is important, in the last post.

Make corrections where needed, I'm pretty tired so I didn't double check my post.

[Justin86]

justin why are you always smilin' bro? lol. is this what you did to your "tasha" and it works?


Well I'm a crazy mo fo and you can never tell for sure. After taking a look over some of the new semi trucks and their twin set up got my gear turning. If you have seen one you know how they are set up but watching the boost gauge on these huge things climb up to 58 PSI is sweet. :birthday: So what I could to is run 2 T3's in seires have something that is caple of making 25PSI easy and still have fast spool up. Of corse this means i need to go with a fully built bottom end and trans which i haven't done YET. ;)

But think about making 400hp and not to have to worry about the huge lag from the todays typical huge turbos

[PikesPeak3G]

Just Another outside the box thought. How about the turbo being mounted just in front of the trunk where the fuel tank is. The tank being removed would open a space where the turbo would be tucked out of harms way, it would allow a straight shot of exhaust from the header with little or no bends, the oil can still come from inside the trunk where obviously the racing fuel cell would be(which would probably be lighter), and it would facilitate setting up a high flow electric fuel pump. The exhaust gases would also be flowing hotter if thats a the point someone was trying to make before. Just food for thought.

[Robs89LXi]

I think there is some confusion here about twin turbocharging and sequential turbocharging. Basically, twin turbocharging uses two turbos in parallel, such as in a V-engine arrangement where each turbo is supplied by it's own bank of cylinders (in a V-8, four cylinders go to one turbo, while the other four supply the second). Sequential turbocharging uses two turbos also, but they are set up in "series". However, it is not what people think, where the first smaller turbo boosts up quickly, then supplies the second one so it can boost. In sequential turbocharging, after the first smaller turbo hits max boost, it's exhaust gas supply shuts off, and the exhaust flow now powers up the second bigger turbo. Another way is to have the gas from the first turbo shunted through it's wastegate when it reaches max boost, so it then supplies the second one. Bottom line though, is that it is not the boosted air from the first turbo that powers the bigger one, but rather the same exhaust gas, just now already up to speed enough to bring the bigger on to boost. So you see, just hooking two turbo's up in line is not sequential turbocharging. Now, is that as clear as mud? :)

[Robs89LXi]

As for reversion, read here (if you can):
http://personal.riverusers.com/~yawpower/techindx.html

[Accordtheory]

Robs89lxi, thanks for.. clarifying this thread a little. I didn't even know where to start. :ugh:

..so there is some type of valve on the intake side of the smaller turbo that closes once it's exhaust supply has shut off (..since air will flow backwards through a non spinning compressor)? how do they connect all these valves and collectors in an aerodynamically acceptable way?

maybe that is why sequential systems are never used for max power applications, like a 1000whp supra..

[Robs89LXi]

Exactly. The complexity of valves, added weight, and extremely narrow tuning range make sequential systems very hard to work with, much less fabricate. With the advent of ball-bearing turbochargers, better intercooling, and sophisticated engine management now, turbos are able to spin to much higher RPMs, thus stretching the boost range (efficiency), and negating the need for more than one turbo.

[Robs89LXi]

Oh, as for STS; I've contacted them several times, over about a year span of time, and they have still done absolutely nothing with that Acura project. I think their principle of a rear-mounted turbo is fairly sound, but I'm not sure it will be very good with four cylinder application. I just don't think we can move enough volume of air fast enough to get a very efficient turbo. Until someone tries it though, I guess we will never know.
Just do what I plan to do; mount the turbo on the back of the block. First, I'll have to install a remote oil filter system to get it out of the way, but once that is done, there will be plenty of room for a turbo. I've already test fitted one from a Ford T-bird Turbo Coupe, and it fit just fine. A regular header design would now be possible, just turning up a bit behind the engine, and of course ending with a T3 flange. I'll get to keep my A/C :rockon: , oil lines will be a breeze, cooling for the turbo from air beneath the car will be nice, if you are not planning on running an intercooler, plumbing will be real short, and best of all, I'll get the stock "sleeper" look :devil: .
To each his own though.

[Accordtheory]

that's an interesting idea. I advised another member on this forum to do something similar to that, use the stock manifold and mount the turbo wherever, maybe at or near the battery location, but the rear mount might actually be better. I'm curious to see a picture of it, that sounds like it could qualify for major sleeper status.

p.s. Do you know if anyone makes a variable a/r ratio turbo big enough for 600whp yet? That is where the future is.

[gr3k0sLaV]

For people who've done their own manifolds, where did you source the flanges from? or did you cut up your own ones?

How difficult would it be to mod our factory manifolds? could it support the extra weight or not?

[Accordtheory]

don't even bother. just remote mount the turbo.

[A20A1]

Maybe you could weld a flange to the cast iron manifold... use an LX manifold, the 3 bolt flanged down pipe port could be used as the wastegate exit and you can weld the turbo flange on the front surface of the manifold, that would keep the turbo from hitting the beam below the manifold... hopefully the wastegate is small enough to fit.

http://www.3geez.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4478

That sharp turn in the exhaust isn't the best for flow though.

If you have good welds it should support the weight, there is a heafty bracket about midway down the manifold that bolts to the block.

This way will probably hit the radiator though.. so whatever you do you're running into space issues.
.
.
.

.

[gr3k0sLaV]

don't even bother. just remote mount the turbo.

I' don't understand this remote mounted turbo concept.

I might try and find an old manifold and take a look, anything is worth considering.

[A20A1]

The difference is the turbo size and the extra expendature from running longer exhaust and intake pipes... put you should properly heat coat them to keep your system efficient. But you do have limitless space in the rear.

REMOTE TURBO
STS ( SQUIRE-TURBO-SYSTEMS ) (http://www.ststurbo.com/home)
* With a properly sized turbo the remote mount system can offer many benifits; Cooler Turbo, Oil, and Engine Temperatures are some of the benifits.
They do offer a coating for the exhaust pipes to retain as much heat as you can from the header all the way back to the turbo, this will retain thermal efficiency.

[gr3k0sLaV]

The difference is the turbo size and the extra expendature from running longer exhaust and intake pipes... put you should properly heat coat them to keep your system efficient. But you do have limitless space in the rear.

REMOTE TURBO
STS ( SQUIRE-TURBO-SYSTEMS ) (http://www.ststurbo.com/home)
* With a properly sized turbo the remote mount system can offer many benifits; Cooler Turbo, Oil, and Engine Temperatures are some of the benifits.
They do offer a coating for the exhaust pipes to retain as much heat as you can from the header all the way back to the turbo, this will retain thermal efficiency.

Hmmm, only issues though is longer piping for the turbo to intercooler.

[gr3k0sLaV]

The remote turbo setup looks interesting, done some research.

Basically the systems run straight off the factory exhausts after the cat.

Problem though what about heat loss between the engine and the cat? or is it something that header wrap could fix.

---

From what i've understood--

1. Turbo is mounted at the back and is attached straight after the cat.
2. Air intake is directly under
3. No intercooler seems to be necessary since much of the air is cool betweenm the turbo and intake.
4. Electric oil pump is used to run oil to and from turbo.

So this system appears to simplify things. Although i'd be guessing header wrap straight fro mthe header to the turbo would help.

Also for those wanting mid-low boost, be better off keeping the facoty exhaust to keep exhaust velocity up rather than using 2 1/4 exhaust piping?

Still the system looks more DIY friendly.

[gr3k0sLaV]

Just an update I made a contact today, some importer setting up a new business specialising in conversions, halfcuts, turbo's, actually everything .

$200 AU for T25 turbo with no shaft play, used but otherwise great condition.
$300-500 for custom intercooler
$400-500 for custom turbo manifold $400 for manifold or $500 for manifold with coating.

Microtech aftermarket ecu $1500 approx for that sensors and coils.

The price I can get a manifold and turbo sounds very interesting.

My major questions are
a) how much can our stock injector & Fuel pump handle. I actually have a set of brand new Injectors from a 6cyl Turbo car, might post some photo's of 'em got the sitting around doing nothing. Wonder if I can make use out of them.....

just see if i can fit them in the accords manifold

[gr3k0sLaV]

Injectors I got are

Bosch 0-280-156-123 can't find any info on 'em though

anyone got any suggestions on where I might find info

[Accordtheory]

i didn't mean remote mount the turbo in the middle of bumfuck egypt, I meant keep it in the engine bay, maybe behind the engine under the intake, or off to the side where the battery is. By the way, a t25 is way too small..

[gr3k0sLaV]

Behind the engine could be done, looking at it last night, you'll have you work around limited space getting the exhaust piping around the drive shafts. Where the battery goes isn't a dumb spot, i've seen it done on homemadeturbo somewhere.

T25 maybe a little small, but would provide decent low end boost which is what i'm after. - Why do you think it's too small?

[Swap_File]

Why do you think it's too small?
From looking at some turbo maps here http://not2fast.com/turbo/maps/ and using the calculator here http://www.turbofast.com.au/turbomap.html a T3 looks to be a pretty good match for a A20.

Their applet to automatically choose a turbo does pick the T25 for low boost, but if you do the math by hand the T3 seems to work out better, but then again I haven't ever ran a turbo in my Honda yet, I have just been doing research. My long term project is to build a MegaSquirt (hopefully UltraMegaSquirt) ECU, install a EDIS ignition system, then install a T3 Turbo (moving battery to trunk, and putting it in that area). I currently have an automatic transmission, but I do have a manual sitting around.

I did look at some of the non-garrett turbos, but in general the garretts seems to be the easiest to work with. They seem to be easy to find in junkyards, easy to find flanges for, they have lots of documentation, and lots of people have used them.

Actually, if I remember right, the GT28 map seemed to look the best on paper (no idea how it would work in the real world), but I doubt I will be finding one of those in a junkyard.

(Edited for spelling)

[AccordEpicenter]

i talk to aaron weir of weirRacing, he will custom make any flange you need, send him a gasket. I got mine from BMC racing but they are slow as fuck

[3G Jester]

sometimes speed of production is worth it for a good part. did sean use an old GM turbo or something like that? what about using something from a jy....you could even get a good hack at the manifold.

[2old_honda]

i talk to aaron weir of weirRacing, he will custom make any flange you need, send him a gasket. I got mine from BMC racing but they are slow as fuck

Aaron Weir is the man! He made my dcoe manifold. his stuff fits perfect.

[lostforawhile]

i just watched rides and they have something i forgot all about,the under car turbo,it mounts right in the exaust stream,and the pressurized air goes back up front. no intercooler,no trying to fit it under the hood,no special exaust manifold. i've seen these before i forgot about them. you run two oil lines back up front. i would worry about oil pressure but you could run a seperate small dry sump with a belt driven pump very easy. i will try to get the name of the company if i can i will watch it again. this could be adapted to nearly anything on wheels. :)

[Robs89LXi]

That is exactly what I'm doing with mine. Stock exhaust manifold, short mid pipe w/ t3 flange, turbo mounted at rear of engine.

[lostforawhile]

no,this one goes under the car,like a muffler. at the back.

[mykwikcoupe]

holy mother of lag. think of the amount of pipe youd have to pressurrize before you even got decent boost. Better run a really small ihi 5

[Robs89LXi]

Okay, you are talking about the Squires Turbo Systems (STS) setup in the rear. Yeah, they have been working on a kit for the Integra forever, but never have finished it. I don't think that setup will work well on a four cylinder engine. Just not enough volume available to make good boost.

Mounting on the back of the engine will not have that problem, and as CKE mentioned, there are several advantages to it. With all I've got going on in life right now though, it will be awhile before I get there, but like I said, that is the plan.

[A20A1]

It's interesting that STS doesn't have a kit yet, you would think if it was easy it would be done a long time ago. I'm sure they are having some setbacks.
Untill they come out with the kit I see no reason to try and beat them to the punch with their own system. A turbo closer to the engine would be okay, but not as far back as the muffler on a 4 cylinder.

[lostforawhile]

the system i saw on rides was for a four cylinder,it seemed to work well, i assume they have adjusted boost pressure for the length of the pipe,this is a great idea for a car with no turbo parts available, or no room for one, it also reduces your underhood temp. they said the turbo ran like 500 degrees cooler. the turbo unit was attached to the muffler. it might cause oil temp problems but with a seperate dry sump system for the turbo you wouldn't have those problems. you could run that with a dedicated oil cooler for the turbo too.

[hot-87-hatch]

I saw that RIDE also. INteresting idea. Another problem I anticipate along with the oil routing would be the lag induced by the turbo having to pressurize all that plumbing. ANy thoughts?

[snoopyloopy]

how many of you are familiar with the sts turbos (http://www.ststurbos.com)? they sell turbo kits that basically replace your muffler with a turbo. how well do you think something like that would work on our cars? i know everyone has been concerned about things such as exhaust gas temperature being pretty low and other such concerns. anyone have any experience with a set-up like the sts?
here's how it looks from underneath on a new mustang gt.
http://i.b5z.net/i/u/1473169/i/mustang/mustang%20twins.jpg

[sinisterfuzzy]

well i dont know, but that'd be pretty freakin sweet if they're was something like that for our cars

[A20A1]

If sized right it should be fine, meaning turbo, and piping.
Be prepared to run about a 2"-2.5" exhaust pipe ceramic coated inside and out from the header back. And a Turbo Specially geared towards the remote mount system, if you have a header already you can run with it. This had all been talked about before... I'll merge the threads.

[snoopyloopy]

I saw that RIDE also. INteresting idea. Another problem I anticipate along with the oil routing would be the lag induced by the turbo having to pressurize all that plumbing. ANy thoughts?
have a seperate oil pump to pump oil to the turbo is what sts does. it's an electric pump about midway between the engine and turbo. and does anyone have any pix of the underside of our cars that are pretty good size and thorough in what they show?

[87preludeA20A3]

The only thing i have heard about these setups were that they wouldn't work for a four cylinder because of the exhasut pulses... Not enough power behind them to spin the turbine.... Which leads to major lag... But you cought my attention so now i think i'll have to try it for R&D...

[ghettogeddy]

so if we could put them there y cant we do it were the flex tube is

[Accordtheory]

I am going to use the factory tri-y gsr manifold on my b series as part of a top mount setup with my holset..

It'll probably be another 6 months before I get around to that..hopefully not though

[AccordEpicenter]

are you just gonna do an up pipe from the manifold to the turbo? Ive seen that done before. Ive seen the remote mounted turbos done before on a camaro with good results, but i think efficiency wise youre best off going underhood off the manifold like traditional setups. Going remote mount does work but i feel its a tradeoff, plus all that work you saved by going remote mount catches up with you when you have to figure out how youre gonna work turbo oil supply out.

[sinisterfuzzy]

The only thing i have heard about these setups were that they wouldn't work for a four cylinder because of the exhasut pulses... Not enough power behind them to spin the turbine.... Which leads to major lag... But you cought my attention so now i think i'll have to try it for R&D...

i just looked at there site and they have whole kits for Civics and other 4 cylinders. and then with this set up the only thing custom needed would be piping right?

[87preludeA20A3]

Do you have a link to that info you got Sinisterfuzzy..???? Post those so we all can read and see...