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Shaggsbud
08-08-2005, 05:05 PM
Alright, I like the system I have and dont' really need to change anything on it, but I still wanna get some better subs. I'll explain what I have and then you all can make suggestions on what to buy...if you want to...

Via a misfortune of my friend (his car was stolen and his subs were punched with a screwdriver since the robbers couldn't get them out of the car.), he signed over his 4 year warranty plan to me that he got for his 2 12" sony xplod's and attempted to help me get some new ones in exchange. Of course the policy covers everything except damage due to theft... So, after a bit of talking with a manager, he told me to go to the audio section and pick out a box/sub combo or whatever I wanted and he'd give me a deal on it. I proceeded to said department and picked up a (and this is the name of it) Dual 2 12" sub box that was quad ported and had the see-through plexiglass front. Stores price: 149.99 Took it up to customer service where the manager was waiting and he cut the price in half for me!

The subs are 1100 watts peak combined...and I'm running a 1800 watt amp into them...(not even running 3/4's power to them) So, theres room for improvement. I'm of course just wondering what you all think I should go with...

Also on a side note, my trunk is completely dyno-matted.

bobafett
08-08-2005, 06:28 PM
sell the subs and buy a cam? heheh

i dont get what u are asking, dont u alread have an amp, and now new subs. what else are u looking to change?

Shaggsbud
08-08-2005, 08:14 PM
I guess I worded that wrong...I plan to replace the subs that came with the box with new ones that can handle my amp at a higher (closer to full power) level. And I'm asking what should I go with since I'm not completely up with all the new subs out there..

Acid X
08-08-2005, 10:08 PM
Dual = crap. Their subs sound horrible. Go for something MTX.

Shaggsbud
08-08-2005, 10:11 PM
Dual = crap. Their subs sound horrible. Go for something MTX.

:rofl: They sure sound good to me...but like I said, I have my trunk dyno-matted, plus my amp is completely configurable...so I'm kinda cheating/making them sound bigger than they are...

Plus at half price for the setup...as long as they've lasted me, they've outdone themselves.

Wish I had a method to get spl readings...

FyreDaug
08-09-2005, 03:02 PM
Bah I hate mtx, and wouldnt recommend them. Im sure they are good subs, but Ive had problems with them in the past. But for 150 bucks (or 75 in your case) I doubt they would be able to handle even 500w. Dont be fooled by big numbers, a Thump! sub at 1000w rms and 2000w peak doesnt sound as loud as my single Alpine Type R running only 200w right now. My recommendation is buuy 1 good dual coil sub, dont bother with 2 subs. Just get 1 good one, wire it to 2ohms and get yourself a good amp. I bet you anything it would sound much better and louder and cleaner than the crap you are running. Especially with Dynamat. I have the same stuff, and its awesome

Shaggsbud
08-09-2005, 03:18 PM
Bah I hate mtx, and wouldnt recommend them. Im sure they are good subs, but Ive had problems with them in the past. But for 150 bucks (or 75 in your case) I doubt they would be able to handle even 500w. Dont be fooled by big numbers, a Thump! sub at 1000w rms and 2000w peak doesnt sound as loud as my single Alpine Type R running only 200w right now. My recommendation is buuy 1 good dual coil sub, dont bother with 2 subs. Just get 1 good one, wire it to 2ohms and get yourself a good amp. I bet you anything it would sound much better and louder and cleaner than the crap you are running. Especially with Dynamat. I have the same stuff, and its awesome

Lol, that would be quite a sacrifice for me....going from 2 subs, to 1...and a different amp...when the one I have works fine....and all I have to do is change out the subs in the box...I'm not dissing your advice or anything, I'll keep it in mind, but I doubt I will go out and just get rid of my current box and amp....


I was also thinking about audiobahn, something like AW101Ts

FyreDaug
08-09-2005, 04:41 PM
Believe me man, you could have 10 of those subs, and 1 good one would still probably sound better.

Take it from a guy who builds all out audiophile carputer systems, you get what you pay for.

No offense but have you heard a good system? My first system when I was 16 was pretty cheap, paid like 200$ for a sub/box/amp installed and it sounded good, then I learned more and put more money into something, some tuning and dynamatted everything and there isnt even any way to compare the 2.

I dont care if you have 2 subs, or an amp already. What is the name of the subs? Who makes em? Thump, sony, MA Audio etc are super cheap and are built crappy, thats why they are cheap.

Why do you think people spend 500+ on a sub? Well most people do it because it sounds good, alot of people are after SPL, and you can get good pressure out of any large displacement sub because the pressure you feel is mainly caused by how much the sub moves (along with sound waves, obviously). Trust me, if you think a 150$ system sounds good you are wrong.

If you havent heard a good system meaning a good sub, a good head unit (or carputer) and a good amp that doesnt clip worth about 1000$ then I cant blame you for thinking it sounds good.

I dont mean offense in this post, but you always get what you pay for. Unless its stolen, then its different :p

EDIT: Sorry to keep rambling on, but what about the box? Whats it tuned to? Why 4 ports? You can overport a box and it will sound like crap, the tighter the box (or bigger in some cases) the better it can hit low freq's, but best case scenerio the person building the box knew the subs were crap, and tuned it to the freq that doesnt distort for those subs, in that case, you would need a new box with new subs. Infact I would probably get (or build yourself, its not hard) another box anyways. Again, no offense, not trying to start a flame war or anything, I just have confidence I know what I'm talking about

87DXHatch
08-09-2005, 06:55 PM
Believe me man, you could have 10 of those subs, and 1 good one would still probably sound better.

It all depends on the install. I would be willing to wager that I could take several "crappy" subs and make them sound better than a couple MTXs or RFs or whatever else you crazy kids are running nowadays.

Take it from a guy who builds all out audiophile carputer systems, you get what you pay for.

Not always. The install makes up 60+% of the equation.

No offense but have you heard a good system? My first system when I was 16 was pretty cheap, paid like 200$ for a sub/box/amp installed and it sounded good, then I learned more and put more money into something, some tuning and dynamatted everything and there isnt even any way to compare the 2.

I dont care if you have 2 subs, or an amp already. What is the name of the subs? Who makes em? Thump, sony, MA Audio etc are super cheap and are built crappy, thats why they are cheap.

Sony and MA Audio aren't terrible, but they are ridiculously overpriced for the amount of performance you get.

Why do you think people spend 500+ on a sub? Well most people do it because it sounds good, alot of people are after SPL, and you can get good pressure out of any large displacement sub because the pressure you feel is mainly caused by how much the sub moves (along with sound waves, obviously). Trust me, if you think a 150$ system sounds good you are wrong.

Sweet Jesus... people spend $500+ on a sub for many reasons: 1) They're too stupid to get it elsewhere for cheaper; 2) they are looking for something to compete with; 3) they're looking for something to sound really loud; or 4) they're looking for the epitome of sound quality, or possibly SQL. You can get good "pressure" out of ANY sub, even 6.5" ones, it all depends on the install. I've seen video of a guy hitting 150.X db with two 6.5" woofers. However, retaining any sound quality is a different issue. If you're feeling anything BUT the sound waves the sub generates, or the incidental seat resonances caused by the sound waves, there are major issues with your install. The amount of money you spend on a sub is nothing compared to how you have the box designed. Though this isn't the point in this particular circumstance, because the box is designed horribly, I just wanted to make this clear.

If you havent heard a good system meaning a good sub, a good head unit (or carputer) and a good amp that doesnt clip worth about 1000$ then I cant blame you for thinking it sounds good.

Replace all of the above with "good install, money non-withstanding."

I dont mean offense in this post, but you always get what you pay for. Unless its stolen, then its different :p

EDIT: Sorry to keep rambling on, but what about the box? Whats it tuned to? Why 4 ports? You can overport a box and it will sound like crap, the tighter the box (or bigger in some cases) the better it can hit low freq's, but best case scenerio the person building the box knew the subs were crap, and tuned it to the freq that doesnt distort for those subs, in that case, you would need a new box with new subs. Infact I would probably get (or build yourself, its not hard) another box anyways. Again, no offense, not trying to start a flame war or anything, I just have confidence I know what I'm talking about


The tighter the box the better it can hit low freqs? What? Boxes can be "tight?" Unless you meant how well the box was designed/built, in which case I would agree.



The sub/box combo you got is the bandpass combo from BestBuy. Simply put, it's shit. If you like it, or like the way it sounds, by all means, don't spoil yourself and seek out something of higher quality. However, if you want to have better quality sound, I would suggest ditching the whole setup; putting any other subs in there other than the Duals will most likely not end up sounding good.

If you want any suggestions or have any other questions, feel free to PM me.

Shaggsbud
08-09-2005, 07:37 PM
Even IF I ditch the box, it wont be happening for a while, I just was wondering if you all had any suggestions for good subs to handle an 1800 watt amp...in a dynamatted trunk...I don't wanna shatter windows, or make ears bleed...so, suggestions....yes, the subs I have are crap...but for what they are, they sound fine...

And as far as what the box is tuned to...no clue...I can tell you what my amp is tuned to...or what in succession I have my system set to...for the amp lvls I'd have to go look in my car...

sometimes I wish it was a hatcback....but then I kinda dislike 2 doors :P

87DXHatch
08-09-2005, 07:40 PM
What's the RMS of the amp? What brand? I missed that part in your first post. My guess is that it puts out no where near 1800 watts.

Shaggsbud
08-09-2005, 07:44 PM
What's the RMS of the amp? What brand? I missed that part in your first post. My guess is that it puts out no where near 1800 watts.

Pyramid 4 channel stereo stable to 2 ohms bridged..1800 watts total..

RMS for each channel would make it 225 watts

87DXHatch
08-09-2005, 08:05 PM
Man oh man... I don't get how Pyramid gets away with such flagrantly fraudulent advertising. RMS by definition should be exactly half of the peak power, but none of their amps are that way. You actually have a 225 watt amp, not 1800 watt.

Like I said, if you're content with it, don't change anything. Really, the only reason to have a system is to make yourself happy.

Shaggsbud
08-09-2005, 08:14 PM
lol... I must have my math wrong then....225 rms x 4 channels.....

87DXHatch
08-09-2005, 08:20 PM
I think more than your math is wrong... Pyramid amps do not put out what they're rated for. If you paid more than $70 for that amp, you got ripped off.

Vanilla Sky
08-09-2005, 08:21 PM
simple. they measure at a relatively high frequency for a very short period of time under overvoltad and heavily cooled conditions. you can make a 200 watt amp put out as much as you want. in no way is it ever going to be a proper signal (not clipped all to hell) at that power. to me, those amps are only good for thier aluminum heatsinks (for scrap), the connections, and a few of the parts that are soldered on like some of the larger capacitors and the MOSFETS.

halxi
08-09-2005, 08:22 PM
Trust me, if you think a 150$ system sounds good you are wrong.


Sorry, but no. You are wrong.

What sounds good and what doesnt sound good is a matter of OPINION. I heard his setup and it sounded absolutly perfect for what he spent, and theres nothing wrong with that.

87DXHatch
08-09-2005, 08:29 PM
I think you could get better parts (maybe not the heatsinks) at Madisound or other places... pyramid amps are pretty crappy.

Vanilla Sky
08-09-2005, 08:38 PM
i never said i was going to buy one. if i wanted some parts, i've got parts bins.

Shaggsbud
08-09-2005, 08:49 PM
So getting back on track, I need suggestions for subs!!

*Edit* This is the amp I currently have Here (http://www.teptronics.com/pb1860.html)

88accordalltheway
08-09-2005, 09:36 PM
haha, it seems like everyone is saying how crappy dual is...well i guess i sould put my two cents into this thread since i DO work with this brand at best buy as well with other brands on a daily basis(and sell the exact sub/box combo Shaggsbud bought)....

First of all, id like to say this, dual is not crap.

These subs on the correct amp definatly sound better than most other subs for the price/sound ratio. Of course there not going to last that long if you push them, but then again, you can pretty much expect the same from most good brand's low end products ...its dual, an off brand, but that definatly does not make them crap. A lot of their product has the potiential to last.

Would i put dual in my car? yea, i was about to put ten dual 10 inchers in my trunk.
Would i use a dual amp/deck? no, but there is nothing wrong with their drivers(subs and speakers)

Hoenstly, im getting sick of hearing how everyone on this forum shuns low end brands(car audio wise). Until you tried them all, its really not your place to talk trash on them. A lot of that stuff is mean for stock upgrades, and in 95% of cases, it is an upgrade.

Shaggsbud, id say for your subs, try alpine type E, infinity refrence, pretty much anything with a nice cone, rubber surround, somthing that has the qualities of a product that is going to last long. Also try to fine the rated rms and the (real) max wattage of your amp and match that to the subs as close as you can. Let the rms power have more of an effect on your decision over max watts. Dont let large magnets, chrome, lights, or flashy high wattage attract you. Try to read as many online reviews as you can.

87DXHatch
08-09-2005, 10:09 PM
Which store do you work at? I work at the flagship in Richfield, MN, #281.

Shaggsbud
08-09-2005, 10:27 PM
Shaggsbud, id say for your subs, try alpine type E, infinity refrence, pretty much anything with a nice cone, rubber surround, somthing that has the qualities of a product that is going to last long. Also try to fine the rated rms and the (real) max wattage of your amp and match that to the subs as close as you can. Let the rms power have more of an effect on your decision over max watts. Dont let large magnets, chrome, lights, or flashy high wattage attract you. Try to read as many online reviews as you can.


Yeah, I'm not one to just buy a name...or something cause it looks cool.. I got 3 seperate opinions from workers at best buy before I purchased the dual box...and I've been happy with it ever since...not to mention that they let me carry over the 4 year service warranty/plan thingy...

87DXHatch
08-09-2005, 11:25 PM
Just for your future information, many "associates" at BestBuy do not know anything about the products they sell. I don't even work in the Car-Fi department and I know more than everyone who works over there, to the point that it's saddening to try and talk with them about ANYTHING car audio related.

Anyway, as long as you're happy, I say awesome.

Vanilla Sky
08-10-2005, 01:57 AM
Just for your future information, many "associates" at BestBuy do not know anything about the products they sell. I don't even work in the Car-Fi department and I know more than everyone who works over there, to the point that it's saddening to try and talk with them about ANYTHING car audio related.

Anyway, as long as you're happy, I say awesome.


i agree. i don't consider myself to have a great knowledge of car audio, but try asking about TS parameters or anything like that at BB. they're worse than the local shop here which seems to think that cone sag is nonexistant in an up/down firing driver.

HaShfIeNd
08-10-2005, 04:10 AM
rofl @ dual.. seriously.. i have a friend that has those... before accidently blowing the first pair without even powering them very hard (defective?) he finally got it setup in his car.. i was actually unimpressed, of course i'm sure its a matter of tuning and what not but those things didn't hit very hard at all and he had a decent kenwood amp... my kicker comps, and little 150 watt rms phoenix gold kick the shit out of them and they are being powered weak compared to what they can handle.. heh... quality over quantity..

87DXHatch
08-10-2005, 07:29 AM
i agree. i don't consider myself to have a great knowledge of car audio, but try asking about TS parameters or anything like that at BB. they're worse than the local shop here which seems to think that cone sag is nonexistant in an up/down firing driver.
It's funny, I'll ask the guys in my Car-Fi department what the xmax of a sub is, and they'll be like "huh???"

(Psst, cone sag has almost zero bearing (and zero audible effect) on a woofer in a straight up and down install. ;) Same thing goes for having a passive radiator facing straight backward... accelerating and decelerating has no audible effect.)

Vanilla Sky
08-10-2005, 07:33 AM
but it can cause unnecessary harm in a driver that's a bit older and placed with the cone up. of course when the suspension is loose enough for that to happen, you'll have already replaced the driver. it IS a factor that should be considered, though.

87DXHatch
08-10-2005, 07:39 AM
Heh, I was going to mention in my previous post, "unless the driver has an extremely loose suspension, and is very old." If this is the case, I don't think you should be putting it in a car, and thus, it isn't something that should be considered in 95% of installs.

The suspensions of most subs are way more than strong enough to handle the fairly light moving masses of the cone/former assembly, whether you have them facing backward, up, down, sideways, or any direction.

88accordalltheway
08-10-2005, 07:50 AM
Just for your future information, many "associates" at BestBuy do not know anything about the products they sell. I don't even work in the Car-Fi department and I know more than everyone who works over there, to the point that it's saddening to try and talk with them about ANYTHING car audio related.

Anyway, as long as you're happy, I say awesome.
...Which store do you work at? I work at the flagship in Richfield, MN, #281.
well, i do agree with you to a certain point. I am one of three guys that work on the floor, and can say i know more than the other two, and thats why they are training me in the install bay right now.

But still, its not fair to say that the guys at best buy know nothing. I would say the guys in the bay know double the amount they guys know inside. I use to think the same exact thing before i worked there, even thought that the small audio shop guys were way better, but in truth, best buy IS better.

The small audio guys rip you off so much, use shitty wire, dont warrant anything(not even the work), and if they mess up your car, your fucked. At best buy, you have an oppertunity to buy a 4 year warranty, so if you ever blow the speakers/deck/amp, you can just trade them out. Sure, the price can be a little above the audio shops, but everything is warranted. The labor is guarenteed for life. So if you dont feel comfortable buying your speakers at BB just because the average joe usually buys from us, you can go to your shady little audio shops.

i work at store #114 fullerton cali, and we're a ray, bb for b, and lab store.

Vanilla Sky
08-10-2005, 07:58 AM
yeah. with modern hi-fi and automotive drivers, it's not really a big concern. that still doesn't mean it doesn't happen. i think sag of 5% of XMAX is acceptable. most drivers fall WELL within this "rule."

FyreDaug
08-10-2005, 08:32 AM
Originally Posted by FyreDaug
Trust me, if you think a 150$ system sounds good you are wrong.




Sorry, but no. You are wrong.

What sounds good and what doesnt sound good is a matter of OPINION. I heard his setup and it sounded absolutly perfect for what he spent, and theres nothing wrong with that.

Maybe it sounds good to you, but trust me, its mostly in the matter of equipment that will make it sound good. This is assuming you know how to install (as I've assumed previously, but not mentioned it) You could build a good box for a $25 1000w sub, put a $279 amp to rated at 200w and it would sound like crap and you would blow it, then you would get a good sub of atleast 150 bucks rated for about 300w, and it would sound a million times better. You cant even compare the quality of 2 subs when they are priced like that. You can think I'm wrong all you want, but Ive never had a complaint with any advice people have asked me on the job.



EDIT: Sorry to keep rambling on, but what about the box? Whats it tuned to? Why 4 ports? You can overport a box and it will sound like crap, the tighter the box (or bigger in some cases) the better it can hit low freq's, but best case scenerio the person building the box knew the subs were crap, and tuned it to the freq that doesnt distort for those subs, in that case, you would need a new box with new subs. Infact I would probably get (or build yourself, its not hard) another box anyways. Again, no offense, not trying to start a flame war or anything, I just have confidence I know what I'm talking about


The tighter the box the better it can hit low freqs? What? Boxes can be "tight?" Unless you meant how well the box was designed/built, in which case I would agree.

Yeah thats a much better way of saying what I was trying to. And by tight I meant smaller, higher density of air to move through a smaller port and what not, the more resistance for the sub to move the better the low freq's will hit.


*Edit* This is the amp I currently have Here

*sigh* all I have to say MSRP: $278.00Teptronics: $119.99 (Savings 57%)
Holy bad godamn advertisement batman, that probably retails for 100 bucks, they sell it for 120, and say it msrp's at 278. Bullshit.


2 Ohm Stereo Stable/Bridgeable into 4 Ohms

That amp wont run a 2ohm load for a sub if you bridge it anyways.


I've seen video of a guy hitting 150.X db with two 6.5" woofers.

I have a large doubt in my mind he passed 120 with 6.5's, if you have that video Id love to see it

87DXHatch
08-10-2005, 08:49 AM
Maybe it sounds good to you, but trust me, its mostly in the matter of equipment that will make it sound good. This is assuming you know how to install (as I've assumed previously, but not mentioned it) You could build a good box for a $25 1000w sub, put a $279 amp to rated at 200w and it would sound like crap and you would blow it, then you would get a good sub of atleast 150 bucks rated for about 300w, and it would sound a million times better. You cant even compare the quality of 2 subs when they are priced like that. You can think I'm wrong all you want, but Ive never had a complaint with any advice people have asked me on the job.



Yeah thats a much better way of saying what I was trying to. And by tight I meant smaller, higher density of air to move through a smaller port and what not, the more resistance for the sub to move the better the low freq's will hit.



*sigh* all I have to say MSRP: $278.00Teptronics: $119.99 (Savings 57%)
Holy bad godamn advertisement batman, that probably retails for 100 bucks, they sell it for 120, and say it msrp's at 278. Bullshit.



That amp wont run a 2ohm load for a sub if you bridge it anyways.



I have a large doubt in my mind he passed 120 with 6.5's, if you have that video Id love to see it

This post cements it for me. You don't understand how vast the role of the enclosure plays in the entire install, nor do you realize how price means almost nothing as far as performance goes.

A smaller box most often does NOT play "tighter," in fact it plays exactly the opposite: louder, boomier, sloppier. Most mainstream subs are designed to play in larger boxes (T/S parameters can show you this) but the manufacturers know that most of the kids that will buy them will not put them in large boxes; they will put them in small boxes, making them louder and peakier than a large box would, and thus "better." When you put a sub in a larger box, you lower the alignment, or QTC, of the enclosure/subwoofer system. The lower the QTC, the more control the amp can exhibit over the woofer, due to less compression from the air.

Also, when you port a box, you DEFINITELY don't want to go small box, or small ports. The smaller the ports, the more port noise you will have, and the less overall gain you will acheive from porting it. Though you obviously want to tune it properly, you do not want to make the ports small.

The guy who hit 150.xx dbs with the two 6.5" subs had them in a horn-loaded enclosure that was big enough to house a pair of 15" subs. I don't know if you've ever heard of Nate Munson, but he hit 170.x dbs with a SINGLE 10" WOOFER. It's NOT about the driver, it's about the install, like I've mentioned several times before.

Ludi Mali
08-10-2005, 06:47 PM
..The small audio guys rip you off so much, use shitty wire, dont warrant anything(not even the work), and if they mess up your car, your fucked.

lol you must be going to some shady audio shops. The shop I go to uses all quality install materials, warrents products for 1 year (retards not withstanding) and work for 2 years. Plus its a lot cheaper than BB. You just have to look around before you give them your money. I'll give you the fact that the guys in the install bay at BB usually know what they're talking about, but the sales people are usually retards.

Shaggsbud
08-10-2005, 07:05 PM
It's NOT about the driver, it's about the install, like I've mentioned several times before.


Thank you...and how many of you out there have tested or even heard my model amp used in a vehicle?

FyreDaug
08-10-2005, 10:14 PM
Alright yeah, reading over what I said before I was either unclear or wrong in some spots.


A smaller box most often does NOT play "tighter," in fact it plays exactly the opposite: louder, boomier, sloppier. Most mainstream subs are designed to play in larger boxes (T/S parameters can show you this) but the manufacturers know that most of the kids that will buy them will not put them in large boxes; they will put them in small boxes, making them louder and peakier than a large box would, and thus "better." When you put a sub in a larger box, you lower the alignment, or QTC, of the enclosure/subwoofer system. The lower the QTC, the more control the amp can exhibit over the woofer, due to less compression from the air.

Also, when you port a box, you DEFINITELY don't want to go small box, or small ports. The smaller the ports, the more port noise you will have, and the less overall gain you will acheive from porting it. Though you obviously want to tune it properly, you do not want to make the ports small.

Your right, I had that totally opposite.

And yes, believe me, I do know how much of an effect an enclosure has. And there is absolutely no denying that a good sub in a shitty box could sound worse than a bad sub in a good box. Its just I was making a general assumption that the box/install was done right, and comparing the sounds of subs in the same environment. As I mentioned many times before.


Thank you...and how many of you out there have tested or even heard my model amp used in a vehicle?

Alright you got me there, personally no I havent tried it. But reading over the specs I donno if that would be a good amp to power a sub. They make mono block amps for a reason, but yeah its not doing any BAD by using a 4 channel amp for it. But what about 2ohm loads? Crossover freq's? Im sure its probably a decent amp, I guess Im going overboard flaunting about how much better better stuff is, when I guess in the end, its fair game depending on the user.

But again, I must state that when I was arguing about cheap sub vs quality sub they were in the same controlled environment, only to make the argument valid.

XBoom135
08-29-2005, 08:39 PM
Mb Quart is a bit expensive, but well worth the $$$. Not that that you asked, but some nice tweets really sweeten the deal. For $100 at the most you could add a pair of Memphis tweets. I've had my pair for a few years and they still sound as good as the day I put 'em in. Less expensive subs? Audiobahn 12's. Take your pick based on buget and 'Needs." Happy hunting.

Shaggsbud
08-29-2005, 08:42 PM
Mb Quart is a bit expensive, but well worth the $$$. Not that that you asked, but some nice tweets really sweeten the deal. For $100 at the most you could add a pair of Memphis tweets. I've had my pair for a few years and they still sound as good as the day I put 'em in. Less expensive subs? Audiobahn 12's. Take your pick based on buget and 'Needs." Happy hunting.


Finally, a good answer to my question, albeit that there are others, but this one is basically all I was looking for :) ty ty, I did ponder on Mb Quarts and I think I just might save up to buy a pair...but I'll have to think about adding tweets....

lostforawhile
08-29-2005, 08:45 PM
i did a test once on one of those amps once,i ran it into a 2 ohm dummy load,with input signal just below clipping, it lasted five minutes before the amp started smoking. pyramid is the biggest joke since sparkomatic. remember those the self destructing audio products. i think kmart used to carry them. i remember one where you could get a "400" watt system with four speakers for like 80 bucks.. the eq knobs on the head unit were glued on and didn't do anything. It only had fast forward on the tape deck. :lol:

XBoom135
08-30-2005, 07:45 PM
haha, it seems like everyone is saying how crappy dual is...well i guess i sould put my two cents into this thread since i DO work with this brand at best buy as well with other brands on a daily basis(and sell the exact sub/box combo Shaggsbud bought)....

First of all, id like to say this, dual is not crap.

These subs on the correct amp definatly sound better than most other subs for the price/sound ratio. Of course there not going to last that long if you push them, but then again, you can pretty much expect the same from most good brand's low end products ...its dual, an off brand, but that definatly does not make them crap. A lot of their product has the potiential to last.

Would i put dual in my car? yea, i was about to put ten dual 10 inchers in my trunk.
Would i use a dual amp/deck? no, but there is nothing wrong with their drivers(subs and speakers)

Hoenstly, im getting sick of hearing how everyone on this forum shuns low end brands(car audio wise). Until you tried them all, its really not your place to talk trash on them. A lot of that stuff is mean for stock upgrades, and in 95% of cases, it is an upgrade.

Shaggsbud, id say for your subs, try alpine type E, infinity refrence, pretty much anything with a nice cone, rubber surround, somthing that has the qualities of a product that is going to last long. Also try to fine the rated rms and the (real) max wattage of your amp and match that to the subs as close as you can. Let the rms power have more of an effect on your decision over max watts. Dont let large magnets, chrome, lights, or flashy high wattage attract you. Try to read as many online reviews as you can.

Dude. I was rockin' some crapp-ass deck that I don't even remember the name of, three blown wal-mart or worse speakers, and an legacy II amp with two 12's that were so pathetic they didn't even have a brand on them. An that was in a '76 Grand Fury. My first car. Now I'm not saying I'm a snob or aristocrat of some sort. But to have evolved from such a setup to what I have now? No, I can't say they're the same. But when I was 14, that was THE SHIT! Now, I cringe in my past ignorance. But I can say to that I loved the hell out of that "system" because it was all I had. And I didn't know any better. Now I believe its true that you get what you pay for with most audio equipment. But you also only need pay for what will suit you. That system worked then. This one works now. Its all up to the one who has to listen to it. And stay away from those Legacy amps, they make scary volcanic lightshows when they go.

lostforawhile
08-30-2005, 08:05 PM
oh i had a pyramid,in my dodge aspen,it had an inline fuse but the circuit board caugt fire igniting my dash. didn't do much damage though. i had a fire extinguisher because the engine had the habit of catching fire on a regular basis. it leaked 3 quarts of oil a day. :bowrofl: i don't care how broke you are sparkomatic was shit not the shit. :lol: who else glued on fake knobs.?