A/C troubleshooting help

[jman123]

On my 89 LX...A/C does not come on. The A/C light on the console lights up, but no condenser fans and compressor clutch does not engage.

I started the troubleshooting procedures in the shop manual (thanks to Paul for the manual). All fuses are OK, I ground the pressure control valve connector - and the fans run/ compressor clutch engages...
I get to step 6 as indicated but it does not detail which connector I should test next (as seen in pic below) - the part diagrammed is a mystery.

http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/1569/page28os.th.jpg (http://img103.imageshack.us/my.php?image=page28os.jpg)
http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/3033/page33hc.th.jpg (http://img103.imageshack.us/my.php?image=page33hc.jpg)

Any ideas on what step I should do next? Or have you experienced the same thing?

[Oldblueaccord]

Low on feon. Compressor wont come on if your to low on freon.

Possible wire problem with the switch but I doubt it.



wp

[paso100]

Low on feon. Compressor wont come on if your to low on freon.
wp

Same thing w/ my AC. I just got the system recharged after not using it for more than a year and that's what the mechanic told me, too. I asked about using an R12 replacement and he said it's not a good idea, but mainly because he didn't want to mess with different systems in his equipment. Bit the bullet and paid $200 for R12 recharge. At least it's cooooold.
Also, he said he detected no leaks but warned me small leaks won't show up w/out a dye test. He said if there's a small leak it might blow warmer in a month or two.

[Blkblurr]

Compreesor will not come on if it's low on freon. The pressure from a bottle of freon is enough to get it to trip the pressure switch.

[Blkblurr]

deleted

[jman123]

I checked around on R12 recharge - $215 was the cheapest, and $275 the most - ouch! No tongue, no lube, no reach around :uh:

Man, I think I may do the Enviro-Safe alternative...I see that lots here have done these with no trouble. I have this sneaky suspicion that the valve cores are shot and the source of a leak - easy enough fix for $8.50 each.

I still cannot figure out what that connector is that the Service Manual references in Step 6. I wanna rule out electrical problem, but $50 w/shipping for the R12-ES go can't go wrong. If you can help with that step I'd appreciate it!

[Blkblurr]

I think It's the pressure switch connector for the AC charge level.

[jman123]

And just to make sure I understand the way this works...I can be dumb sometimes :dunno:

The pressure control switch/valve will shut down the whole system if pressure is too high or low...right? As long as I don't have any other electical issues, all should be good after the charge.

I ordered the Enivro-Safe from http://autorefrigerants.com/
3 cans of R12-ES + 5 oil testers + an oil charge can for $38 + shipping.

I'm getting R134a valve cores and caps + the can tap w/gauge for $20 at Napa.

With this product you do not have to drain/replace the existing oil, but figured I might as well while I'm messing with it.

$60 ish for everything - I'm almost sporting wood since I coulda paid $200+ now, then just to recharge it again later.

J

[Blkblurr]

Sounds lilke a good plan. I save people lots of money by doing their systems instead of them going to a shop or dealer. Once you get it running put some of the leak dye in to find your leak if you still have one. My guess is the hose that goes into the condensor core is leaking. You should replace the o-rings if it is.

[superdesi]

I ordered the Enivro-Safe from http://autorefrigerants.com/
3 cans of R12-ES + 5 oil testers + an oil charge can for $38 + shipping.

I'm getting R134a valve cores and caps + the can tap w/gauge for $20 at Napa.
J

Why are u getting R-134a valve cores when your stock cores are regular R-12. When you actually install the refrigerant, post back the results.

BTW, did you consider any of the other alternative refrigerants out there?

[Blkblurr]

The cans of R12 or R134A have the same threads. the connetors used to put the refrigernet in are mostly available in R134A would be my guess

[superdesi]

The cans of R12 or R134A have the same threads. the connetors used to put the refrigernet in are mostly available in R134A would be my guess

Not True. R-134a cans uses ACME threads while genuine R-12 cans uses a connector that pierces the top of the can with a special connector (no threads).

[nswst8]

"Foolish person" The threads on both R-12 cans and R134a cans are the same. I use the same puncture adapter for R134a that I used on R-12. I should know I was around when you could still buy R-12 for $2.49 a can.

[Blkblurr]

"Foolish person" The threads on both R-12 cans and R134a cans are the same. I use the same puncture adapter for R134a that I used on R-12. I should know I was around when you could still buy R-12 for $2.49 a can.

Ditto

[Oldblueaccord]

Ditto


himmm

http://www.epa.gov/ozone/snap/refrigerants/fittlist.html

i do remeber the puchture tops myself but im pretty sure they made 134 cans /cylinders totally differant. So you could NOT just screw in the wrong can. That be to easy. I can't find my old r-12 hoses atm but if i do maybe ill shoot a picture and post em.

Probably need a little sticky archive action on this subject its a good one.


wp

[Blkblurr]

I didn't have to buy new can adapters to use R134A. That's how I know. Mnay years ago the R12 cans had the type of puncture tops your refering to but they changed them because the old style leaked easily after you punctured it.

[jman123]

Replaced the R12 H and L service ports (valve cores) with R134's.
The old ones had almost no o-ring left (factory originals it appears) with no obvious leaks througout the rest of the system.
Added some oil and the Enviro-Safe refrigerant and cold air!
At www.autorefrigerants.com they have these great oil testers for $.97 each...wow it really helped in gauging things with the oil. They really have everything you could need for eco-friendly alternatives to basic auto products - and they're cheaper!

For $58.00 total...all is well with my A/C system!
Just wished I had tackled this one earlier in the summer.

[superdesi]

Jman, did you evacuate the old R-12 before adding the Enviro-Safe? How well did those "oil testers" work? Did you install the regular or industrial ES?
Exactly how many cans did you install and did you use a pressure gauge.

Big upppps to you for installing E-S. I have a case of it.

[jman123]

I only had less than 1/4 of oil remaining, but did not evacuate the old oil.
Per the Enviro-safe website I did not need to since their product is 100% compatible with the old oil and R12/R134 additives. Don't rat me out!

My guy with the gauges dropped off the face of the planet (always happens when its time to work on MY stuff)...so I was forced to guesstimate....since the system was completely empty...vacuumed it down to 0 psi - followed instructions just as on the can.

Added 2 and a small amount of 3rd can of the regular Envirosafe. Blows now at 42 degees with outside ambient of 87 degree. I hope to get a set of gauges on real soon to see how close I am. From other posts here...I should be about right on. I'm just happy to know that the system works and that it blows cold.

The oil testers work just like advertised...shows condition and quantity.
The old stuff was in the OK range and added slowly until after 3 tests it showed full. I bought 6 testers, used 4 and they proved very useful - highly recommended!

[Blkblurr]

I only had less than 1/4 of oil remaining, but did not evacuate the old oil.
Per the Enviro-safe website I did not need to since their product is 100% compatible with the old oil and R12/R134 additives. Don't rat me out!

My guy with the gauges dropped off the face of the planet (always happens when its time to work on MY stuff)...so I was forced to guesstimate....since the system was completely empty...vacuumed it down to 0 psi - followed instructions just as on the can.

Added 2 and a small amount of 3rd can of the regular Envirosafe. Blows now at 42 degees with outside ambient of 87 degree. I hope to get a set of gauges on real soon to see how close I am. From other posts here...I should be about right on. I'm just happy to know that the system works and that it blows cold.


The oil testers work just like advertised...shows condition and quantity.
The old stuff was in the OK range and added slowly until after 3 tests it showed full. I bought 6 testers, used 4 and they proved very useful - highly recommended!
Good job! I still can't believe these old systems can still work that good. My numbers were similar for vent temp and ambient temp.