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lostforawhile
08-14-2005, 10:38 AM
:mad: has anyone found a list of aftermarket brake rotors for our cars? my stock ones suck and i'm tired of having to replace warped rotors. i warped another set yesterday. :mad:

Rendon LX-i
08-14-2005, 11:24 AM
U can get Powerslot....I got those coming.....Went intown to a Fastlane Motorsports and the they hooked me up 130ish.....U can get those man...Sloted

lostforawhile
08-14-2005, 12:30 PM
do they mailorder?

bobafett
08-14-2005, 01:01 PM
i just put on some EBC sport rotors

they are slotted and dimpled. so far so good, but i havent had them on for 500 miles yet! but the price was right. $50 on www.tirerack.com

Strugglebucket
08-14-2005, 05:08 PM
brembo makes slotted rotors for our cars as well. i think only the front, though. powerslot makes the rears.

lostforawhile
08-14-2005, 06:01 PM
I didn't know brembo made rotors for our cars still. that's cool. I don't have rear discs anymore so that doesn't really matter. I had brembo discs on my 81 civics very good brake parts. as a matter of fact it had 83 civic s calipers on my car and they were factory brembo. very rare parts. i sure wish they had kept using brembo instead of Tokico. i will def check into those. while we are on the subject, i had heard that the 89 brakes were different then the earlier brakes. i had found a good set of sedan calipers almost new, but they wouldn't fit on my 86 hatch even though they were 86. i have some 89lxi hatch calipers in my junk and they look the same as my 86. did all the hatches have the bigger calipers? that would follow with honda's tradition of the hatches being the performance cars. that might explain why some of the aftermarket brake parts don't fit. not trying to go off topic or anything.

Strugglebucket
08-15-2005, 03:29 AM
the '88-'89 lxi/sei had bigger brakes. as far as i know all models '86-'87 were the same.

*edit* wait. i think you might be right. the hatches had the larger brakes through all years? some parts sites list it that way but others don't even bother to list a 3-door designation.

lostforawhile
08-15-2005, 01:53 PM
come to think of it i think i replaced one of my calipers with one from an lxi. i know the sedan calipers wouldn't bolt up. that means if you switched the spindles from a hatch to a sedan you could have bigger brakes. does anyone know if 90 accordd rotors will fit? i found the drilled and slotted rotors for a 90

Strugglebucket
08-15-2005, 02:35 PM
'90 accord rotors will not fit. different bolt pattern, different offset, different diameter.

lostforawhile
08-15-2005, 02:55 PM
i thought the bolt patern was still 4x100 i know my wheels are from a 90 integra and they bolt right up. i wonder if that one might fit they have the same ones for that year. i had a thought i will look friday at the junkyard i know the early legend was very sim. i wonder if the brakes for the v6 legend might bolt on. wouldn't hurt to check. there are wierd parts interchanges for these cars, for example the 4 wheel disc brake integra from 89 has the same master cyl. as our cars. i checked and the part numbers are the same.

Strugglebucket
08-15-2005, 04:49 PM
yeah, the 1st gen legends are nice because they're 11" rotors and they have the same offset as the accord. but they still have a different bolt pattern (4x114.5 i think) and even if you redrilled them you'd have to figure out a way to space out the calipers. i'm almost certain that the entire hub from the legend could be swapped though, just not sure if the axle splines are the same.

i'm kind of working on a weird brake setup that would get you 11" rotors fairly easily without having to make custom brackets for the calipers but i won't know for sure until i try it out and i'm lazy so it might be a week or two.

lostforawhile
08-15-2005, 05:28 PM
that bolt pattern is for 5 lugs, the four lugs should all be 4x100 i'll compare a couple of them and see but when i looked it up on the acura site the odball pattern was listed for the 5 lug

lostforawhile
08-15-2005, 05:31 PM
yeah, the 1st gen legends are nice because they're 11" rotors and they have the same offset as the accord. but they still have a different bolt pattern (4x114.5 i think) and even if you redrilled them you'd have to figure out a way to space out the calipers. i'm almost certain that the entire hub from the legend could be swapped though, just not sure if the axle splines are the same.

i'm kind of working on a weird brake setup that would get you 11" rotors fairly easily without having to make custom brackets for the calipers but i won't know for sure until i try it out and i'm lazy so it might be a week or two.
from looking at my acura tech book it looks like the same spindle assembly the caliper brackets might bolt right up.

Strugglebucket
08-15-2005, 06:11 PM
they will, but they're the same exact brackets as the accord. the difference is in the hub:D

lostforawhile
08-15-2005, 06:29 PM
darn,i thought it might be in the caliper bracket. have you ever looked at a pic of the accord suspension and the legend suspension from underneath? they're freakin' the same! i'm looking at the two pics side by side and they are identical. i'll bet the hub swaps out. oh yea the 89-90 sedan and coupe rear suspension is also identical to the ones on our cars. i can't believe i haven't noticed this before.

Strugglebucket
08-15-2005, 07:59 PM
are you sure about the rear suspension? there was talk about that before as an alternative rear disc swap since the se-i is kind of hard to find. but i think the legend was different, like it had a huge trailing arm or something.

lostforawhile
08-15-2005, 08:05 PM
they look pretty close to me now i'm talking about the sedan and coupe 89-90 it looks the same in the pictures only way to tell is to go to the junkyard. don't want to get too off topic here. i'm def going to look at those front pieces to see if they can be swapped. I would love to have those big disc brakes

Strugglebucket
08-15-2005, 08:11 PM
it's still on topic, they make slotted rotors for the legend, too;)

89accord_lxi_coupe
08-16-2005, 05:03 AM
i'm probably gonna have to get my rotors either turned or replaced. which is the cheaper alternative in a ballpark estimate? i'm sure i'll have to do the pads as well, but i was just curious about the rotors. i'll more than likely take it in to get it worked on, though i don't relish the idea. if it weren't for the possible rotor problem i'd just go to my dads so we could do the brakes together, he has more experience. also, when you buy replacement rotors do they normally come 2 to a box or do you buy each seperately? thanks for the info fellas, don't think i took this of the topic to much.

bobafett
08-16-2005, 05:44 AM
rotors turned is probably cheaper. but oem rotors are so cheap its almost better to go new... seriously... ask at like schucks or baxters or autozone. there like 22 a peice! probably 15 to turn them... i would go with new

and they always come 1 rotor to a box. but unless they are slotted they dont have specific left and right part numbers (at least i dont think so, but my EBC's do)

89accord_lxi_coupe
08-16-2005, 05:53 AM
sorry guys,
my other question is; how difficult is it to replace the rotors? there is no how-to on this, i searched. there are listings for putting disc rotors on the back, but not to replace the fronts. that might actually be a good how-to to have up here, just incase somebody needs to look it up. autozone has rotors for like $17 and the pads aren't a bad price either. i've got school starting on the 29th so i'd like to get this done. i'd rather not be driving up to class and my brakes go screwy on the many up and downhill areas of the road i take.

lostforawhile
08-16-2005, 06:07 PM
rotors turned is probably cheaper. but oem rotors are so cheap its almost better to go new... seriously... ask at like schucks or baxters or autozone. there like 22 a peice! probably 15 to turn them... i would go with new

and they always come 1 rotor to a box. but unless they are slotted they dont have specific left and right part numbers (at least i dont think so, but my EBC's do)i've had a terrible time with cheap aftermarket rotors. they keep warping. I found the aftermarket good ones at tirerack.com i like the slotted ones but they carry brembo for our cars and they are far better rotors even if they aren't slotted. the slotted ones aren't really designed for high performance driving, more for looks. i used to race with brembo rotors and i can tell you from experience they are good rotors. so i've decided to go back to them. the ones i'm talking about now are from auto zone,they aren't worth a crap, the first time i had to brake hard they warped. if you are going to be going up and down hills i would go with a good performance rotor and quality performance brake pads, they won't warp and the brake pads won't fade all the time.

Busted_Blue
08-16-2005, 07:13 PM
i've had a terrible time with cheap aftermarket rotors. they keep warping. I found the aftermarket good ones at tirerack.com i like the slotted ones but they carry brembo for our cars and they are far better rotors even if they aren't slotted. the slotted ones aren't really designed for high performance driving, more for looks. i used to race with brembo rotors and i can tell you from experience they are good rotors. so i've decided to go back to them. the ones i'm talking about now are from auto zone,they aren't worth a crap, the first time i had to brake hard they warped. if you are going to be going up and down hills i would go with a good performance rotor and quality performance brake pads, they won't warp and the brake pads won't fade all the time.


the hell are you talking about slotted is for looks.


Slotted = vents gas outwards faster
Cross-drilled = lighter rotor

From my understanding of how rotor works, slotted helps prevent a layer of gas building up causing brake fade. It helps vent the gases out of the rotor. Cross drilled is merely a form of lightening the rotor. This is why many F1s have slotted/cross-drilled because it is a great compromise of better braking as well as lighter rotors.

lostforawhile
08-16-2005, 10:20 PM
the hell are you talking about slotted is for looks.


Slotted = vents gas outwards faster
Cross-drilled = lighter rotor

From my understanding of how rotor works, slotted helps prevent a layer of gas building up causing brake fade. It helps vent the gases out of the rotor. Cross drilled is merely a form of lightening the rotor. This is why many F1s have slotted/cross-drilled because it is a great compromise of better braking as well as lighter rotors.i know that it helps some, i'm talking about a lot of high speed braking, they have a tendency to develop fatigue cracks along th holes and the slots. there is even a warning on tirerack.com about having to inspect them carefully after every race because of this. i have heard of slotted rotors cracking before. anytime there is a pressure ridge in metal i.e. a stressed machined area that has corners, cracks will tend to develop in that area because of pressure ridges in the metal. i'm not posting this to start an arguement or anything just some safety information. QUOTE: IMPORTANT REMINDER: Slotted, drilled or dimpled rotors offered as OEM replacements should not be considered appropriate for high-speed track use.

While grooved, drilled and slotted rotors offer an enhanced appearance and add some resistance to the boundary layer of gasses that can build up between the pad and rotor, they are not designed to withstand the extreme temperatures that are produced on the racetrack. If they are used on the track, it is very important that the rotors be carefully inspected and should not be driven on if even minor signs of deterioration are seen. Note, too, that if any products are used on the track they are not warrantable

Busted_Blue
08-16-2005, 11:08 PM
Well said lostforawhile. It definitely doesn't apply to our cars since we don't do much highspeed braking (since we can't get up that high loool)

Legend_master
08-17-2005, 02:08 AM
I will just post this (http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/results.jsp?autoMake=Honda&autoModel=Accord+LX+Hatchback&autoYear=1986&category=Pads&category=Rotors&autoModClar=) link fro brake rotors and pads and tell you the bolt pattern on the legend is 4x114 and the rear is a different setup on all years then the 3gee. The front is very similar and I am not sure if it would swap out. I dont know if anybody has looked at the 97 accord v6 rear suspention, but it looks very similar to our cars.

spanky
08-25-2005, 11:32 AM
at autozone the rotors are 14 bucks for value craft w/ 3mo warr. here's PT# 3182B.also rear drums are cheap value craft w/ 3mo warr. 12 bucks the part # is 3569B. and while there off if you into the paint the drums and claipers thing there u go u'll have a clean drum but to paint the calipar u'd have to clean em.

lostforawhile
08-25-2005, 11:54 AM
I will never put those "value crap" rotors on my car again. i had to use a set of them because of money,the first time i hit the brakes hard they warped.and they wouldn't cover it because they say warping isn't covered by the warranty. there is a hugee difference between cheepo rotors and good rotors like brembo and bendix. thats why they cost more, it's not the brand name.it's the quality of materials used in the rotor.oh the v6 accord suspension looks like our cars because the suspension used on our cars starting in 86 is basically the same suspension used on accords to this day. with minor changes of course. four corner double wishbone. that suspension was adapted right off of the honda indy car. the only real difference was instead of using lever shocks mounted sideways,they used conventional strut springs.

86AccordLxi
08-25-2005, 12:20 PM
Well, all the honda challenge racers at H-T use autozone rotors on their race cars without problems, though I too bought Brembo blanks from Nopi. Realistically, high performance rotors are a waste of money. They're mostly designed to dissipate heat more quickly and thus endure better under hard braking conditions. I think very few people on here actually drive their cars to the point where they need rotors beyond stock replacments.

Alex

lostforawhile
08-25-2005, 12:36 PM
I do a lot of hill carving around here,so i can eaisily get my brakes to the point they smoke,i really need rear discs or something. i know the hatches came with stock bigger brakes on the front, i wonder if it has something to do with the weight distribution. the auto zone rotors i had gotten warped the first time i had to stomp on the brakes, i've just had really good luck with the brembos as far as road course racing on honda's in the past. I drive pretty hard so i'm working on someway to upgrad the brakes.

86AccordLxi
08-25-2005, 12:44 PM
Honestly though I don't think you're using your brakes more than the race cars. I think you need some better pads.

Alex

lostforawhile
08-25-2005, 12:59 PM
oh I know that,it's just easy to overcome the stock brakes. while i'm on the subject,as far as i know all hatches had the same brakes right? i know sedan calipers won't bolt up,already tried it,i'm wondering because the spindle assemblies i'm going to be installing my new wheel bearings in are from an 89 lxi hatch. my hatch is an 86 dx. i'm going to powercoat the spindles first then put in the new bearings and ball joints. are the splash shields that important eithier? all mine ever do is get bent. if they aren't important i might get rid of them or slot a couple at the bottom so they can be installed with the hubs in. I thought about powercoating the spindles bright yellow or something high performance looking like that

truetune
08-25-2005, 08:22 PM
the splash/dust sheilds do nothing if you ask me, your breaks get better air flow with them off. better pads and some break balance controler set-up to even out the distrubution of weight under breaking due to the increased grip of better pad in Front and only O.E. quality brake shoes in the back if you have drums. or you could just live with the nose diving style of the added front braking force but either way you still break faster and therefore you don't have to exert as much braking force to slow down or stop.

now I have read somewhere that with all the stoping power up front the rears go to waste due to the weight being takin off the rear so much, causing the back to lockup and thats a NO No. when the goal is front lock up before the rears. with most of the weight transferd to the front you end up in the same boat possibly worse off......

ummm well if any off that is wrong, off, or unclear feel free to correct me. my spelling sucks.

lostforawhile
08-25-2005, 08:39 PM
it's almost impossible to lock the rears before the front,if they do lock you've got a bad proportioning valve. almost all the braking force is designed to go to the front anyway. the rear brakes do very little.now if you have rear discs you have a different proportioning valve anyway so more braking force to the rear.most of your weight is in the front so the weight of the vechicle transfers to the front wheels during hard braking. this also puts more downforce on the front tires helping keep them in contact with the ground and maintaining a bigger tire contact patch between the car and the road surface.

oldschool3g
03-17-2006, 10:28 PM
man this sucks!!!!!...i ordered myself some powerslot rotors for my hatch from tiretrack.com, took them to the shop to get replaced and turns out that they wouldent fit!!!!!:rant: so i brought them home and the bolt holes dont even match up!...i mean they should be the exact same roters and the should line up...there both 4 lug patterns but one rotter has the 4 holes too close to the center of the rotor...and the other one has them close to the outter edge!..

Legend_master
03-18-2006, 06:21 PM
man this sucks!!!!!...i ordered myself some powerslot rotors for my hatch from tiretrack.com, took them to the shop to get replaced and turns out that they wouldent fit!!!!!:rant: so i brought them home and the bolt holes dont even match up!...i mean they should be the exact same roters and the should line up...there both 4 lug patterns but one rotter has the 4 holes too close to the center of the rotor...and the other one has them close to the outter edge!..


go to www.tirerack.com they had my stuff to me in less then a week and called to varify the car and that they had the pads and rotors in stock.

ZackieDarko
03-18-2006, 06:50 PM
i can vouch that the 88/89 rotors WILL fit on the 86/87 hatch (up front)

i put 88/89 LX-i/Se-i rotors (power slot) on my hatch and they work just fine, fits perfect :)

power slot + AEM "high performance" pads = good times :)

89AccordResto
03-19-2006, 01:44 PM
i've had a terrible time with cheap aftermarket rotors. they keep warping.

I've heard warping almost never happens. It's usually because you overheat your pads, and have uneven pad deposits. I'll see if I can find the link. In any event, I've always used cheap rotors and really nice pads, and I've never had a problem. Ever. This is true for all of the vehicles I've ever owned.

Oldblueaccord
03-19-2006, 03:46 PM
I've heard warping almost never happens. It's usually because you overheat your pads, and have uneven pad deposits. I'll see if I can find the link. In any event, I've always used cheap rotors and really nice pads, and I've never had a problem. Ever. This is true for all of the vehicles I've ever owned.


I dunno where you heard that . Most cars warp rotors pretty quick. Theres a TSB on our car as well. I'm not sure why the rotor size is generous for our weight car. I would guess it because they float instead of a hub/rotor combanation like that on most older domestics.


wp

89AccordResto
03-19-2006, 05:57 PM
I dunno where you heard that . Most cars warp rotors pretty quick. Theres a TSB on our car as well. I'm not sure why the rotor size is generous for our weight car. I would guess it because they float instead of a hub/rotor combanation like that on most older domestics.
wp

Heard it from this guy: http://www.carrollsmith.com/

He's a professional race car engineer. This is what he says about rotors warping. Please only read if you have an open mind, and realize that the masses can perpetuate stupidity.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

Something to keep in mind before you spend money on fancy rotors. Again, I have $12 rotors on my accord with good pads (I forget what they are, I installed them 2 years ago), and I've had ZERO warping issues, absolutely no pedal puslation, and they're quiet and very smooth.

89AccordResto
03-19-2006, 05:58 PM
Also, some people don't follow proper break in procedures for bedding the pad. That's a good way to ruin a set of rotors.

Oldblueaccord
03-20-2006, 03:07 AM
I read it long ago.

I say this. take a rotor chuck it up in a lathe and put a dial indicator on it. If its off more than .005 you ll feel it on the front. You can do it on the surface that the pad DOES NOT TOUCH and it still will be warped. End of story. I dont sell brakes BTW.

Sure pad build up will make it pulse too its a high spot.


If you don't get warped rotors good for you. some of us here do including myself and i dont have a good fix for it at this time.


wp

3gmodifier
03-20-2006, 04:39 AM
i just put on my new brembo cross-drilled rotors (front-rear) and akebono ceramic pads. fuck me. this was one hell of an upgrade. i got my rotors from AJ-ASU.com. they have cross drilled brembo's, slotted brembo's, and cross drilled and slotted from baer or some other brand, i forget. pretty decent price. my fronts were like $144 and the rears were $118.

89AccordResto
03-20-2006, 05:27 AM
I read it long ago.
I say this. take a rotor chuck it up in a lathe and put a dial indicator on it. If its off more than .005 you ll feel it on the front. You can do it on the surface that the pad DOES NOT TOUCH and it still will be warped.

A used rotor or a new rotor? Because all of my cheapo used rotors have been true when they were new. And if you break them in properly (even distribution of pad material by overheating your pads consistently without coming toa stop making a pad imprint), use good quality pads, and avoid coming to emergency stops and then sitting still letting your pads cook themselves onto your rotors, you won't get any pulsation. Show me a pic of your used rotors, and I can tell you if they actually warped or if you didn't bed them properly or came to an emergency stop and sat there while the pads cooked on. :)

You should NEVER see uneven pad material on a rotor, or the imprint of a pad on a rotor.

oldschool3g
03-20-2006, 06:58 AM
has anybody boughten an installed the powerslot rotters?

89AccordResto
03-20-2006, 09:17 AM
Do a search. Probably find some people who have them. But nobody 'boughten's them. Bought= already past tense, fyi. Rotors have one T. But ... like I said. Cheap rotors are fine. Just don't skimp on pads. Slotted rotors eat pads away faster, an htey were originally developed for when pads emitted a lot of gas under hard braking. Today's pads don't really do that much, but the slot can help keep everything smooth, as it constantly slices away at the pad.

ZackieDarko
03-20-2006, 10:07 AM
has anybody boughten an installed the powerslot rotters?


i have power slot rotors up front with aem "high performance" pads

oldschool3g
03-20-2006, 03:29 PM
really? is yours a hatchback?...cause i bought those rotters too but they dont fit

AZmike
03-20-2006, 07:18 PM
The front rotors are larger for 88-89 fuel injected models regardless of body style.

89AccordResto
03-20-2006, 07:25 PM
Larger diameter or width? Why isn't this a regular upgrade for all DX and LX users?

oldschool3g
03-20-2006, 07:44 PM
well they said that they would fit my 1989 lxi hatch but its weird cause the new slotted rotters i got dont line up. when i put them together to make sure the 4 lug nut holes lined up and they didnt....one had the holes too close to the center and the other too spread out...one of them should fit but they sent me a wrong one i think

ZackieDarko
03-21-2006, 12:19 AM
i have the power slot sloted rotors for the 88/89 LX-i/SE-i on my hatch (86 LX-i) everything lines up fine i have had ZERO problems with them...i have no modified the brake system at all everything is booooone stock :)

bobafett
03-21-2006, 12:24 AM
thats strange... i wouldnt think that the 88-89 EFI rotors would fit with the 86-87 calipers and hubs. :)

now i guess the thing to check is wether or not the calipers are much better? if not, and the larger rotors just fit.... then hey thats an easy upgrade... but i find it hard to believe that they would fit...

when you put on the new 88-89 rotors did you notice that they were larger than the ones you replaced?

Oldblueaccord
03-21-2006, 01:04 AM
really? is yours a hatchback?...cause i bought those rotters too but they dont fit


you need to call and get the corerct ones. Sounds like they drill the bolt pattern way off. I'd send them back.

Shold be a 4 x 100 mm pattern. Reguardless if the hub part is off the bolt pattern should fit if you flip the around just to try. If it don't there defective.


wp

oldschool3g
03-21-2006, 08:40 AM
i think they are defective...i mean they look exacly identical as far as size and thickness....and the bolt paterns are 4 lug...but they just dont match up as if they drilled them wrong....im going to try them myself to see which one is the right one...cause the shop probably only tried one...

gp02a0083
03-21-2006, 09:27 AM
not shure about the front calipers all i know is the knuckle for the 88 and 89 are offset so that means u cant use the bigger brakes without the knuckles

oldschool3g
03-23-2006, 08:15 AM
well guys i tried the rotters myself today to see if they would fit....turns out that the left roter first perfect...but the right one doesnt...they sent me the wrong right rotter. so i called tirerack and their going to send me the right one....thanks for all your help guys