replacing axles is a good thing kids

[NXRacer]

I was going to replace both axles this weekend, but was only able to get the driver side done. The passenger side wouldnt budge even with me jumping on a breaker bar. The driver side axle had fallen apart and the only thing that was holding it together was the fact it was still in the car and the boot was in tact.

next week i'll get the other one replaced. I think these were the original axles because they still had the yellow paint on the bolts from the factory.

[86AccordLxi]

Weren't you telling me about axle replacements about....3 months ago lol. Glad you got around to it!! Also, check the meets section for upcoming Oregon meet :)

Alex

[MrBen]

Yep my car had the original axles still at 240k I think. Still had life in them, probably another 20k at least, but they were replaced more as a process of elimination in finding out what the hell was wrong with my car

[86AccordLxi]

Yep my car had the original axles still at 240k I think. Still had life in them, probably another 20k at least, but they were replaced more as a process of elimination in finding out what the hell was wrong with my car

:mod: :mod: :mod:

:bowrofl:

Alex

[A20A1]

Mine are original too but I'm only 200k or there abouts.

[bobafett]

266,000 on mine baby. all original. maybe i will get some whp's from replacing them.. my bright yellow NAWZ stickers didnt help as much as the eBay ad said they would!

hehe... are u coming to the meet?

[NXRacer]

yeah i should be able to make it. now that my car is halfway reliable to drive. :kekeke: I'm glad i havent replaced my clutch yet because thats the only thing that was saving me from blowing the axles out sooner. I can tell a huge difference in the way the car responds to just about everything with just one new axle. cant wait to get the other one on. they were so bad they click in either direction and one is/was starting to click just going straight!

[snow_man_20]

i need to do my axles too but mine only click when turning in cold weather, so i haven't heard a click in almost a month. Did you get them from honda or did you buy from a part store? New or rebuilt? How much?

mike

[NXRacer]

I just called around and got the cheapest i could find. I paid somewhere around 50 a piece for them. I think they're rebuilt, but i'm not sure.

[my86dx4dr]

my driver side axle was bent, my pass side was ripped, the driver side vibrated its self out, so i paid 50 a peice for a new set, that was 4 days after i put a centerforce street/race clutch in... talk about being pissed... shoulda just done it all at once, why cant i just be lazy and get away with it!

[NXRacer]

i was going to wait to do my axles when i had a clutch, but i couldnt wait any longer they were getting so bad and i only had enough flow to get the axles.

[mcwille117]

i am doing both of mine right now and i am having a seriously hard time. can anyone help me? my big problem is the long bolt on the bottom of the fork. on both sides. i'm doing it with hand tools till my friend bring over his compressor to use an impact wrench. now my problem is i got the nut off the one side but the bolt is frozen in there on the driver side i put i pipe on the socket and pulled up with everything i had and all it did (after alot of effort) was start turning the rubber that the bolt goes through inside that arm.... and i know mine are not the original because on the pass side that bolt it 3/4" insted of 17mm and they have a rubber balancer on both of them thats not on the new ones. should i just put the impact on it and spin it till it hopefully comes loose? any one have any ideas? i can't even budge the pass side not even with the pipe......

[NXRacer]

have you tried using a hammer?

[mcwille117]

have you tried using a hammer?

yeah... to the point i lost my temper and almost hit my fender :mad:

[NXRacer]

which fork bolt are you trying to remove? the one on the strut?

[mcwille117]

which fork bolt are you trying to remove? the one on the strut?

this one
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/9/web/393000-393999/393638_67_full.jpg

i got that from "how to" page here

[NXRacer]

all i can say is get yourself some liquid wrench or even better, marvel mystery oil. It sounds like its just seized real good.

[jlros75]

6 years ago I had the same problem while replacing one of my axles, I ended up taking the lower control arm with the pinch fork to a shop were they applied 6.5 tons of pressure to pop that big bolt. :sad2:

[BlueBead]

I'm looking at doing mine too.... the shake is just too much to handle now that I have decent sound and I fixed my exhaust.
I remember doing the pinch bolt in my hatch.... that biatch took an hour with a hammer, prybars, and a pushbar to push it thru the fork.
you could try a torch.... I'm just going to cut the bolt and smash it thru on the front suspension I pulled off my parts car tonight (note to self: start with ratchet, finish with socket; not vice-versa)

[mcwille117]

Nail it with PB Blaster.

Screw back in about 1/8 of an inch.

More PB blaster.

Screw back out as far as you can get it.

Take out a junk screwdriver, or a cold chisel that can fit into the thread cavity and press up against the other side of the bolt.

Smack the ever living piss out of it.
Jiggle the arm up and down. Put a floor jack underneath it and give it some offset load.

Try to undo it again. ;)

(Eventually that thing will come out.

Getting nowhere? Torch/ice it.


i can't even get it out far enough to do thati will post a pic of my progress tonight

[carotman]

The problem is often that the bushing sleeved is seized on the bolt. You end up tearing the bushing apart. Once you do that, you need to get the control arm out to replace the bushing. This usually ends up in lot of frustration and bad words because the control arm bolt will be seisez on the front X-Member too.. (been there, done that)

[maka_RTH]

speaking of siezed control arm to crossmember bolts.., what would be the best way to go about cutting that bitch out?

[Immeraufdemhund]

i went in with a sawzall on both inner sides. Then i went to advance and got the bushings and torched that bugger out of their. Although finding out it would have been better to just burn it out then gut the metal bushing part instead of torching it out. oh well. It works.

[halxi]

I just bought a new drivers side today, $162.76 from napa, $80 core charge, so the total balance will be around $80 after i take my old one in to them. Plan to do it saturday night, i was told it shouldnt take more then 1.5-2 hours WITHOUT air tools, i have to agree seeing as how it took 3 hours to pull an entire tranny. So much for new exhaust or my sound system install this time around :(

[mcwille117]

I just bought a new drivers side today, $162.76 from napa, $80 core charge, so the total balance will be around $80 after i take my old one in to them. Plan to do it saturday night, i was told it shouldnt take more then 1.5-2 hours WITHOUT air tools, i have to agree seeing as how it took 3 hours to pull an entire tranny. So much for new exhaust or my sound system install this time around :(

i wish it was only taking me 1.5-2 hours :banghead:

[mcwille117]

i went in with a sawzall on both inner sides. Then i went to advance and got the bushings and torched that bugger out of their. Although finding out it would have been better to just burn it out then gut the metal bushing part instead of torching it out. oh well. It works.

wait i am confused what would be easier to do cause that sounds pretty simple.... any part #s on the bushing or what exactly is that called?

here is my progress
http://www.phatness.com/mcwille/progress.JPG

here is the source of all my troubles
http://www.phatness.com/mcwille/bolt.JPG

whats left of my shaft... the rest is still in the trans
http://www.phatness.com/mcwille/shaft1.JPG

[Justin86]

whoa thats a lot of rust, your problem is that your suspension should look like this................

http://img357.imageshack.us/img357/3830/aemfont9jc.th.jpg (http://img357.imageshack.us/my.php?image=aemfont9jc.jpg)

[mcwille117]

is this the bushing i would need if i were to cut it and then burn it out?
ebay auction (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/82-89-HONDA-ACCORD-Control-Arm-Bushing-NEW-101-3614_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33583QQitemZ798248 9152QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V)

[deflxitones]

hello, im a nubie who is about to change his driver axle on his 88 accord lxi coupe, im doing it because i dont know whats making all the ratling noise in my driver side engine compartment. I already changed my shocks and that didnt solve my problems so now i was guessing hub assembly but will hope its just the axle.... please someone give me reasureance that its just going to be the axle and not the hub.

[halxi]

could be the wheel bearing, loose axle nut, loose tie rod, anything thats loose, it could also be the cruise control unit. Superaccords cruise control unit rattles like a mother when he revs it a little, probably explains why it doesnt work :lol:

[NXRacer]

hello, im a nubie who is about to change his driver axle on his 88 accord lxi coupe, im doing it because i dont know whats making all the ratling noise in my driver side engine compartment. I already changed my shocks and that didnt solve my problems so now i was guessing hub assembly but will hope its just the axle.... please someone give me reasureance that its just going to be the axle and not the hub.
depending on the rattle i could be something other than the axle. I replace both sides and i still have a strange rattle at low RPM's. . . .

[BlueBead]

I did my axles last night; passenger side was a dream, but the damper fork bolt on the drivers side was seized and wouldn't turn more than an 1/8th with 140psi on an impact gun. I ended up taking the inner CV apart and reassembling.
It was way easier than fighting with the bolt and messing up the lower control arm bushing. If you are having issues with the damper fork bolt I recommend highly that you take the halfshaft apart to get it out/ put back in.
To do this:
undo the clamp on the large section of the inner CV joint and slide the end off of the spider. make sure you have a clean drop sheet down so that if you drop a roller you don't get crap in the grease. Then you slide the main shaft through the opening in the damper fork and put the CV joint end back on to the spider. Slide the boot back on to the 'cup' and gently push a small screwdriver under the lip to equalize the pressure. then put a new clamp on the boot and tighten it up
this took me maybe 10min tops and was way nicer than beating the shit out of my front end.