disappointed in 19's

[89accorder]

My carbed 4 door 'cord is pretty slow. i ran high 19's with vac removal stage 1. the other day i had a 2 1/4 in. exhaust made w/ a straight through muffler(my old exhaust rusted through at the cat). no mandrel bends though :sad2: anyway i ran a 19 flat last night w/ manual sec.(im using the beltronics accelerometer, and im assuming its accurate) does this sound about right? well ever since ive joined ive wanted to get a weber38. but then i noticed everyone talking about modding the stock 2bbl kehin. what should i expect to run if i did the complete choke plate removal and vac removal? or would it be worth it to get the 3838? or the dcoes????(i know getting them and making them work would put me well over $1000)

[Vanilla Sky]

i'm willing to bet that your motor isn't in that great of condition.

[SteveDX89]

What do you expect? You have a 2600 lb. car with 98 hp. Seems a little on the slow side tho. I ran 18.08 on a G-tech with vac removal and cat-back exhaust. My car is lighter being a DX tho.

[bobafett]

sounds about right. i ran a 16.6 with all my mods and totally gutted... so i think low 19's sounds about right. i have driven my brothers stock a18 accord, and its terrible, i would guess 20 seconds minimum. :)

i would probably be around 16 flat with better tires and a motor that didnt have 266k on it

[A20A1]

My carbed 4 door 'cord is pretty slow. i ran high 19's with vac removal stage 1. the other day i had a 2 1/4 in. exhaust made w/ a straight through muffler(my old exhaust rusted through at the cat). no mandrel bends though :sad2: anyway i ran a 19 flat last night w/ manual sec.(im using the beltronics accelerometer, and im assuming its accurate) does this sound about right? well ever since ive joined ive wanted to get a weber38. but then i noticed everyone talking about modding the stock 2bbl kehin. what should i expect to run if i did the complete choke plate removal and vac removal? or would it be worth it to get the 3838? or the dcoes????(i know getting them and making them work would put me well over $1000)


Ebay might have some cheap carbs.

- The weber adapter plate for 32/36 (can be used with 38 ) is $50
- The cable bracket and linkage $30
- The air filter is about $20
- The 4cylinder jet kit for 38 weber $70
- You can make your own gaskets $5
- Fuel lines and filters maybe a another $20
- Aftermarket fuel pump $120 or less
- Fuel Pressure Regulator if needed $40
- Weber Tuning Book $20

- Pre Total $375

- New Weber 38 $400 ___ Used Weber 38 $150

- Total New (-Gaskets) $770 ___ Total Used $525

.

Problem with the 38 is the synchronized throttle... it may hurt your low end, I don't think anyone on here has used a 38.

You may want to do a tune-up first... in order to tune a carb right your motor has to be in good condition. If you just slap it on then you'll be trying to compensate for bad conditions and you wont get the most out of your carb.
.
.
.

[gfrg88]

19 secs is about right for our cars, i ran a 19.2 on an lx-i with cai and exhaust....

[89accorder]

what do you consider a tune up?
i assume u mean

-valve clearance
-cap, rotor, plugs, wires
-ignition timing
-tune carb
i also plan on an accel coil. u guys just buy the universal one?

my car only has 211k which isint a lot for a honda.
i was planning on getting a head from a junkyard to play around with try and port it. and have napa replace all of the seals and of course get a head gasket. it dosent smoke often but when it does its a lot.
ill do a leakdown and compression test on it. i might pick up a motor from the yard and rebuild it. over the winter.

[86AccordLxi]

Well, your 211k mile motor may have a lot of life left in it, but it's still not running at 100% which serves as a contributing factor to your 19.2 run.

Alex

[A20A1]

what do you consider a tune up?
i assume u mean

-valve clearance
-cap, rotor, plugs, wires
-ignition timing
-tune carb


Yeah and check fluids and compression.



i also plan on an accel coil. u guys just buy the universal one?


http://www.3geez.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3232

.
.

[89accorder]

ok thats the coil i was lookin at. does it really make that big of a difference in power?
or just better throttle response. tomorrow im gonna pick up a carb from the local j-yard. how much should i expect to pay? i plan on just filling all of the holes and removing the choke just to see how much of a difference i will really get from the 100%vac removal.

thank you all!

[bobafett]

i can tell u i installed msd ignition, wires, and blaster ss coil at one time, and noticed 1 imaginary crank horsepower... it smoothed out the topend a bit. but honestly i dont think i gained any power. still im not regretting the purchase. :)

[bobafett]

what mods? i saw a damn near stock lx-i run 16.2 so i know an lxi with some bolt ons can do faster than a 16.6.... my excuse is high milage, high milage clutch, and 185/70/13 all season tires.

nah but this car had really low miles and like short ram intake and exhaust... thats it.. ran low low 16's.... :)

[A20A1]

ok thats the coil i was lookin at. does it really make that big of a difference in power?
or just better throttle response. tomorrow im gonna pick up a carb from the local j-yard. how much should i expect to pay? i plan on just filling all of the holes and removing the choke just to see how much of a difference i will really get from the 100%vac removal.

thank you all!


Slow down. :)

Which holes are you filling?

if you do 100% vacuum line removal you'll lose vacuum advance and the powervalve.

I suggest you hold onto the A, B, C Air jet controller, and the power valve, and the vacuum advace.

Removing the choke is fine though, and the A/C idle boost.

[89accorder]

well thats what i meant. i was going to keep all necessities. ajc and the advance#2. what is the powervalve? and i had my carb off before, and i noticed a waffle like grid on the spacer(gasket?) below the rear(primary?) barrel. can i take(cut?) that out?

[A20A1]

Yes, I thought I listed punching out the EFE screen in the how-to, I think there was a picture.

Anyways here is another thing you might want to make use of.

If you plan to rebuild your carb. or at least replace the Top Hat Gasket use the image below as a stencile. and trace it onto gasket paper... the thin brown kind or gasket paper. If you don't know how to acces and replace the top hat gasket look at this thread: ( http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=5350 )




Gasket v 2.0

Here is the Gasket you can use to sort of block the Accel pump bleed... it also has more gasket material making the gasket a little more sturdy... I added material mostly on the float bowl side to reduce the gasket intefering with the air flow in the barrels... but in the primary barrel I made it very rough so you might want to fit the gasket on the car as is and crop any overhang inside the primary and secondary barrel...

I'm not sure how big a hand held hole puncher is but it should make a clean cut for the bolt holes and the other holes as well as giving you rounded corners to avoid tears.

Print @ 300 DPI

EDIT: Hmm Try printing it out at 4.75"

EDIT 2: I changed the image so it should print out okay as is at 300dpi, just double check to see that it's 4.75"

You should be able to print directly on a thin brown gasket sheet... just cut it to the size of a regular paper... and pop it in the ink jet.


http://www.3geez.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3843

[A20A1]

Warning!!!
Just a reminder, the EFE plate flows coolant through it... if the gaskets do not seal right... and they probably wont if you take the carb off and reinstall it... then you run the chance of coolant leaking into the intake manifold and messing up your engine.

.
Here is the EFE screen removed from the EFE plate.
.
.
http://www.3geez.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3342

[89accorder]

whats that do? will i gain any noticable power from it? 1/10?

[Vanilla Sky]

i noticed a couple things with that EFE plate gone. more erratic idle when cold, smoother idle when worm, better flow, and more upper end pull. i have one that i modded to block of the coolant, too. i can sell it to you for $25 shipped, negotiable of course. less restriction and better flow.

[89accorder]

ok, i think i just need the freakin thing tuned, cause it smells reallly, reallly rich. it also bogs badly if i floor it from a stop. It feels like theres a little more power there that im not getting. i have today off, so i might try it (along with the efe screen thing) but imn kinda confused. i set the idle frist then the A/F screw? i dont think i know where it is.

[A20A1]

The A/F screw is for idle. and partially off idle.

It does not affect the a/f ratio of the intire carb. The jet size, the venturi size, the float level... how good the fuel pump is... those will effect the A/F ratio of the carb.

[cody509]

i noticed a couple things with that EFE plate gone. more erratic idle when cold, smoother idle when worm, better flow, and more upper end pull. i have one that i modded to block of the coolant, too. i can sell it to you for $25 shipped, negotiable of course. less restriction and better flow.

25 is kind of steep for a stock modded part. what make/model is it off of?

modded to block coolant? elaborate.