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View Full Version : Timing belt issues...


DeViOuS
10-23-2005, 12:55 PM
Ok so its come to the point where I have to replace my timing belt. Also, I have found out that my alternator and my water pump arent lined up right. The alt sticks out a little further than the water pump, eating away my belt, and making it squeel. So how to I change the Timing belt, and whats the best way to adjust the alt so that it goes in closer to the engine?:dunno: :dunno: :stupid:
A20A1
10-23-2005, 01:24 PM
hrm... you need to make sure you install the washer... I assume your washer for your alt is missing that is why your belt is not alligned.
DeViOuS
10-23-2005, 01:46 PM
Where does the Washer go? On the inside bracket? Im confused...
A20A1
10-31-2005, 02:32 AM
Hrm I'll have to get a pic.
But year it goes between the alternator and the bracket. It's a thick washer.
DeViOuS
10-31-2005, 06:15 AM
Ack. The idiots that worked on my car last didnt tighten the bolt on the bottom of the alt. So its been off. Now it lines up just right. Idiots. Ok, how do you get the crankshaft pulley off? THis lil bastard wont sit still.:uh: :stupid:
Poncho Villa
10-31-2005, 07:22 PM
I just replaced my timing belt over the weekend and the best way to get the crankshaft pulley bolt loose is with a very large impact wrench, 19mm socket, and massive amounts of air. You can use a breaker bar and 19mm socket but I don't know exactly how to keep the crankshaft from spinning. I read that you can "wedge a screwdriver in the ring gear" to keep it from spinning but I'm not certain exactly where this "ring gear" is located. If this is the same gear on which the starter spins, then it seems like quite the PITA to remove the starter to do this job. Nevertheless, I recommend that you do NOT use the cam sprocket to try to keep the crankshaft from spinning. As I quickly learned, it's a quick way to rip teeth off of the timing belt and get your cam and crank out of synch. DOH!
One more note, the Chilton's manual mentions tightening the crankshaft pulley bolt to 83 ft lbs when you put it back together. My experience is that the factory must have tightened the original to about 83 million ft lbs, used LocTite, and spot welded the thing for good measure. It was a b!tch to remove and I resorted to my alternate vocabulary.
A20A1
10-31-2005, 08:35 PM
Maybe remove the starter and lock it from the flywheel/torque convertor?
I forget how I did mine.
88Accord-DX
10-31-2005, 08:45 PM
That crank pully bolt is the tightest bolt on the whole car. I used 3/4" sockets & extentions past the fender well on top of 4x4 blocks to break that bastard loose. Also had to wedge a thick flat-headed screw driver on the flywheel. Good luck with it man, all I can say.
EDIT- I tried to use an impact wrench before I resorted to 3/4" extentions & 4x4 blocks, it had plenty of air too.