1989 Accord Surging

[Grin]

1989 2.0 AT...
It has been surging at cruising speeds of 20-30-40 KM and sometimes 80-90 KM. It will drop to 1000 RPM's and kick up to 1500 RPM's. Idles nice. I've disconnected EGR no result, new plugs, cleaned carb, new fuel filters, no vacuum leaks when checked with brake cleaner, coolant level up and has been bled.. I did notice a red / orange film in the distributor. What is this from? Also the surging started around the same time the cruise stopped working. May or maynot be related. any help appreciated..thnx.:slap:

[Grin]

DESPERATE
A little extra info......
I know that the surging will only occur when the vehical is at full operating temp. It happens mainly at 2000 RPM's. Is there a vacuum line that only comes into use at this RPM? Or is it possible the red dust in the distributor is the sure sign my problem is the dist. I guess the question is if I replace the distributor could it have a possitive effect on the surging? I have checked the engine ground and it is good.
Any ideas as to what to look for would be greatly apreciated.

[FyreDaug]

Since I dont have a complete answer for you, go buy a vacuum tester and check all your vacuum lines. Or even just replace them ALL, it'll cost maybe 10 bucks, plus you wont have to buy a tester that way.

Not neccesariliy the problem, but it should be checked.

The film in the distributor... was it on the electrical posts? Or just sitting on the bottom (side) when you took it off?

Sounds like water got in there, and that color is because of rust. Take some fine-ish paper (150grit) and sand the connections inside the cap lightly and the rotor. See if that does anything.

[A20A1]

yes check for a vacuum leak

it's good that you checked your coolant level is full because coolant will effect thermovalve operation and thermovalve effect vacuum.

if a thermovalve was faulty then it wouldn't control vacuum properly and you could end up with a leak after the car has fully warmed up.

you have at most 3 thermovalves.

The two at the rear of the intake manifold
plastic and quite fragile and easily broken...

and a thermowax valve on the thermostat housing behind the distributor.

[Grin]

Thanx Guys..
I'll get a chance to try these ideas this weekend. I had no idea about the thermovalves. Also I'm sure I can borrow a vacuum tester. As for the film in the dist...I replaced the cap and rotor and sealed the dist with gasket maker because moisture was getting previously. Probably the source of the red dust.
I will post my findings.:cool:

[A20A1]

the red dust is the bearings in the distributor grinding away. :)

[Kabuki]

Thanx Guys..
I'll get a chance to try these ideas this weekend. I had no idea about the thermovalves. Also I'm sure I can borrow a vacuum tester. As for the film in the dist...I replaced the cap and rotor and sealed the dist with gasket maker because moisture was getting previously. Probably the source of the red dust.
I will post my findings.:cool:


Ack! Just use a new distributor cap gasket! No silicone! Also, while MOST of the Honda distributors can be rebuilt, I have been unable to locate replacement bearings for the 3G Accord units. I do have the seals, though, if oil starts leaking through.