Idle Problem

[VTEC_Inside]

Ok, I had a huge choke problem last year. I ended up changing the choke puller and thought my days of f'ing with the thing were over.

Another problem I had been having is that I wasn't getting full heat out of the vents in cold weather until I got on the highway. The guage showed full running, but there was no way it could be.

Well the weather is getting colder again, and my idle started to hang at 1200rpm untill I had been on the highway. After my experiences last year, I made an almost immediate connection to the coolant temperature/thermovalve issue.

I had suggested to my dealer last year that I suspected a thermostat problem, but was pretty much told it couldn't be, I mean it wasn't overheating right?

Anyways, I went and got a new thermostat today. I drained and flushed it out with a garden hose. As I was about to put in the new T stat I compared it with my old one. I could open the old one a little bit VERY easy, and open it a lot with out too much effort. I couldn't budge the new one.

New T stat installed, fresh coolant (still have to check it with a hydrometer as it seemed as though I was pushing a lot of water out the bleeder hole). I started it to finish the top off and the results were almost immediately apparent. The car hadn't been kicking itself off the high idle for a LONG time, it did so today within 2min.

I got in, went for a short drive, and had SCORCHING heat from the vents within minutes.

Anyways I had to share, because the initial effects of my weakening thermostat weren't immediately apparent. It could be the cause of some other peoples problems so I had to share.

[Acid X]

Hmm. Sounds viable. Wonder if it'd help my hard idle? :p

[VTEC_Inside]

I may have spoken too soon in the other thread.

The problem isnt as bad now, but there is still something up.

As my car warms up, it will drop to about 1200rpms, and stay there. The choke plate is almost completely open at that point, but not straight up.

I can't seem to see what opens the plate the remainder of the way. Once it does, you tap the gas and the idle drops to normal. I don't get it, the choke puller works, that other little black thing at the back is pulling.. Arg.

So far the only saving grace is that with the new thermostat it eventually does open all the way up much sooner than it had been.

[VTEC_Inside]

Replaced the bi-metallic spring, and the hot air diaphragm earlier.

I'll know tommorow for sure if its still doing it. I think the spring was screwed. The hot air diaphragm was leaking HARD core. The one I put on leaks, but not as bad... Wish me luck.

[VTEC_Inside]

All appears well now. I think it was just behaving a bit weird because I had the spring out and unplugged while tinkering.

With everything together on a cold start it behaves properly.

[VTEC_Inside]

Ok, I'm pretty sure I've asked this question before, but I can't remember.

I have an '89 Accord LX coupe (Canadian before I get busted about models).

The engine was replaced with one from an older ('87) one a few years back.

I have the entire original engine in my basement.

My question is can I just put the distributor from my original engine onto the "older" engine that is in my car now? I've been told no, but they look damn similar.

Its not a huge issue, but every time I have to get a cap and rotor for this thing (do it 2yrs on avg), I either forget entirely, or they order the wrong one anyway and it becomes an ordeal.

[A20A1]

86-89 will all be fine...

the only difference is the tec and hitatchi... I think hitatchi had two models... one with a metal vacuum advance diaphragm and a different one with a plastic diaphragm.

the caps are different between the tec and hitatchi

[VTEC_Inside]

Thanks so very much oh 3geez God. Its times like these that I wish it was possible for a big 3geez group hug... lol...

I just got a new TEC cap and rotor for the one on my car, so it will be a while, but I'll be swapping the whole thing before next time.