a20a3 engine high components wanted???

[87-89hondaaccord2.0]

hey im new here but where can i find light weight connecting rods valves springs and retainers. I need them bad beacuse im turboing my 89 lx i 2 door.

[SteveDX89]

No where. That's custom stuff.

[2drSE-i]

here, ill save you the next 10 posts

SEARCH

use the search bud, it helps alot

search mother F@(*&#($

just search dude

dont listen to these assholes, they never help. youd have to customize all that stuff

...yea i only made it to 5, but you get the jist

[LiTtLe xOx BitT]

There isn't too much aftermarket support for this car, thats the reason a lot of us love it so much, its all custom. And one of the most important things you can do here is abuse the search option, its amazing what you can find if you just search. Welcome to the board and good luck.

[LiTtLe xOx BitT]

I just noiced your user name. 87-89 isn't supposed to stand for the generation years is it??

[Accordtheory]

hey im new here but where can i find light weight connecting rods valves springs and retainers. I need them bad beacuse im turboing my 89 lx i 2 door.

What the hell is an 'engine high component'??

Why would you want light weight connecting rods?

For a serious build up, the first thing you need is forged pistons. Custom. You can use eagle rods for an integra b18a/b/b20b/z, but the wristpin diamter is bigger than on the stock a20 pistons.
And you don't need anything 'bad' internal engine wise anyway, as long as you're running under 14psi or so, or raising your rev limit. What you Do need is an obd-1 setup, like everyone else here on 3geez. If you run 12psi with stock internals, halfway decent turbo/intake/exhaust systems, and a halfway decent tune, your car will be about as fast as an srt-4, maybe high 13s/low14s. That's about where I was, and my engine was garbage, Well over 200k on it, horrible oil press.

If you want to increase your rev limit reliably, that is where the rods, retainers, and springs come in, along with the aebs 'typhoon' IM (the 2 stage IM is pathetic. the integra gsr has a 2 stage and it's ok, but the 88-89 accord one isn't) matching b series TB, and maybe a larger cam, so your VE doesn't drop off horribly at that higher rpm. Also figure on at least a 2.5" exhaust. I have a 3".
As far as turbo selection, get something that will flow enough for at Least 400hp, not some junkyard crap, seriously. For injector sizing, go to the rceng.com site and use their worksheet. A lot of people use dsm 450s off a 1st gen eclipse gst 5spd for relatively low power set ups, like 220hp or so, that's what I had.

[baby D]

:uh: sory bud but here is a lesson in old school rodding, number one, lighter stronger usaly spins faster, number two,the lighter the rods the less resistance to spin, 3, the lighter easier to spin engine creates more power, and oh, by the waysa y you and i built an engin like this and other wise exactly like yours was, this would create another 15 to thirty percent more power, also better balance the engine, another 5 percent, get it? lighter stronger= BETTER, THE BOTTOM END ON THESE THINGS ARE BULLET PROOF, NOW IT IT WAS LIGHT A SPOON WOULDNT HAVE SHIT ON USE AFTER SOME CUSTOM PISTONS AND CAM.:sadwave: , OH YEAH, AND WHEN YOU DO IT DO IT RIGHT THAT WAY YOU WIN INSTEAD OF BEING TOWED HOME. AND MINE HOLDS 65 PSI OIL, AND ITS SEEN 12OOO RPM. SO HAVE A NICE DAY KID.




What the hell is an 'engine high component'??
Why would you want light weight connecting rods?
For a serious build up, the first thing you need is forged pistons. Custom. You can use eagle rods for an integra b18a/b/b20b/z, but the wristpin diamter is bigger than on the stock a20 pistons.
And you don't need anything 'bad' internal engine wise anyway, as long as you're running under 14psi or so, or raising your rev limit. What you Do need is an obd-1 setup, like everyone else here on 3geez. If you run 12psi with stock internals, halfway decent turbo/intake/exhaust systems, and a halfway decent tune, your car will be about as fast as an srt-4, maybe high 13s/low14s. That's about where I was, and my engine was garbage, Well over 200k on it, horrible oil press.
If you want to increase your rev limit reliably, that is where the rods, retainers, and springs come in, along with the aebs 'typhoon' IM (the 2 stage IM is pathetic. the integra gsr has a 2 stage and it's ok, but the 88-89 accord one isn't) matching b series TB, and maybe a larger cam, so your VE doesn't drop off horribly at that higher rpm. Also figure on at least a 2.5" exhaust. I have a 3".
As far as turbo selection, get something that will flow enough for at Least 400hp, not some junkyard crap, seriously. For injector sizing, go to the rceng.com site and use their worksheet. A lot of people use dsm 450s off a 1st gen eclipse gst 5spd for relatively low power set ups, like 220hp or so, that's what I had.

[baby D]

:uh: sory bud but here is a lesson in old school rodding, number one, lighter stronger usaly spins faster, number two,the lighter the rods the less resistance to spin, 3, the lighter easier to spin engine creates more power, and oh, by the waysa y you and i built an engin like this and other wise exactly like yours was, this would create another 15 to thirty percent more power, also better balance the engine, another 5 percent, get it? lighter stronger= BETTER, THE BOTTOM END ON THESE THINGS ARE BULLET PROOF, NOW IT IT WAS LIGHT A SPOON WOULDNT HAVE SHIT ON USE AFTER SOME CUSTOM PISTONS AND CAM.:sadwave: , OH YEAH, AND WHEN YOU DO IT DO IT RIGHT THAT WAY YOU WIN INSTEAD OF BEING TOWED HOME. AND MINE HOLDS 65 PSI OIL, AND ITS SEEN 12OOO RPM. SO HAVE A NICE DAY KID.




What the hell is an 'engine high component'??
Why would you want light weight connecting rods?
For a serious build up, the first thing you need is forged pistons. Custom. You can use eagle rods for an integra b18a/b/b20b/z, but the wristpin diamter is bigger than on the stock a20 pistons.
And you don't need anything 'bad' internal engine wise anyway, as long as you're running under 14psi or so, or raising your rev limit. What you Do need is an obd-1 setup, like everyone else here on 3geez. If you run 12psi with stock internals, halfway decent turbo/intake/exhaust systems, and a halfway decent tune, your car will be about as fast as an srt-4, maybe high 13s/low14s. That's about where I was, and my engine was garbage, Well over 200k on it, horrible oil press.
If you want to increase your rev limit reliably, that is where the rods, retainers, and springs come in, along with the aebs 'typhoon' IM (the 2 stage IM is pathetic. the integra gsr has a 2 stage and it's ok, but the 88-89 accord one isn't) matching b series TB, and maybe a larger cam, so your VE doesn't drop off horribly at that higher rpm. Also figure on at least a 2.5" exhaust. I have a 3".
As far as turbo selection, get something that will flow enough for at Least 400hp, not some junkyard crap, seriously. For injector sizing, go to the rceng.com site and use their worksheet. A lot of people use dsm 450s off a 1st gen eclipse gst 5spd for relatively low power set ups, like 220hp or so, that's what I had.

[Accordtheory]

what the hell? Did you just refer to me as 'kid'?? What are you, like 17? I'm 24. And I can't even decipher your nice double post..you need to go back to your high school english class.
Now, you think you're going to school ME on anything automotive? You need to spend a lot more time learning and reading before you try to post after me like that, unless you like to look like a total moron in front of other people.

Do you even understand elementary shit like rate of piston acceleration and rod/stroke ratio? How about why a 4 cylinder engine is torsionally unbalanced?
If you understood that, you would understand that the acceleration of the crank and piston is inversely proportional..ie, as a rod/piston accelerates, disregarding the power stroke for the purpose of illustration, the rotational velocity of the crank decreases, and as the piston decelerates, the rotational velocity of the crank increases. There is no energy loss in a reciprocal situation, only frictional losses. You really think a small reduction in reciprocal mass would reduce frictional losses enough to result in a 15-30% hp increase? Well, you are sadly mistaken, young rookie. And another thing, USING CAPS MAKES YOU LOOK EVEN MORE RETARDED.

[2drSE-i]

wow dumbass. 65 psi oil, that does alot of good. 12000 rpm....yea about the same. how about you look at how much WHP his accord has over yours. lets just say, for urs to be just as fast, youd have to put on 130 type r stickers

[b8er]

o man this is turning into another sweet thread, im pretty sure your gonna lose this one babyd

[RiCANACCORD]

:stupid: :rockon:

[POS carb]

you're all retarded!!! :bong:

you want light weight for obvious reasons... you want strength for obvious reasons.
Since all this shit is custom your weight:strength ratios and engine abilities are going to be dependant on the size of your wallet.
The head isn't designed for 12K rpm use, neither is the intake manifold, the valvetrain, or the rediculous rod/stroke of the A20. Get a B16 if you want to hear that.

So you want to work with what you have, why not get a turbo setup with lower compression pistons, a quick spool wheel, some better valve springs. If you want to get more complex stick some oversized valves in there. New rods are a nice touch but you'll only need them if you are over-revving the engine or boosting say 20 PSI. Rebuild the engine and make sure you use the correct bearings and replace your oil pump, that's the most important part of the engine

Add a megasquirt ECU and an electronic ignition you can tune about anything

[Ichiban]

agreed.

oil clearance determines oil pressure, as well as the flow capability of the pump. if your bearings are screwed, you won't have oil pressure, and you should probably not be turboing an engine in such a condition.

High rpm long duration n/a cams have no place with a turbo. you're probably better off with stock

Lighter means faster, within reasons of structural integrity. if you reduce reciprocating mass to the point you maintain durability at higher rpm, you can take advantage of more power strokes per unit of time, as well as cam/intake/exhaust to further increace your power. reduction in mass doesn't specifically make more power, it lets you rev higher in order to do so and not blow up.


NOW IT IT WAS LIGHT A SPOON WOULDNT HAVE SHIT ON USE AFTER SOME CUSTOM PISTONS AND CAM.

i dont understand...

have a nice day

[gfrg88]

hahaha baby d is trying to lecture accordtheory :lol:

[Accordtheory]

you're all retarded!!! :bong:

yeah, you just keep hitting that bong..is that what you do before you post on 3geez..? Fuck it, I can't blame you..:cool:
Anyway, I already recommended the eagle rods. My point was that emphasizing Lightness with a turbo A20 engine is not exactly the first priority. The engine has way too many other limitations. And what, this guy is going to buy rods lighter than the eagles?
And also, I did explain how a lighter rod doesn't do much for anything earlier, did I not? A slight reduction in frictional losses because of reduced inertial loading that wouldn't even show up on a dyno. Having heavier rods puts more stress on the crankshaft and block structure, but honda cranks are strong as hell anyway, and the a20 is a cast iron block. The reciprocating component that really should be light is the piston, mostly to reduce tensile loading on the rods at high rpm. (On an n/a engine, the stock rod breaks on the overlap cycle, because of exceeding the recommended rpm.) On a turbo engine, the stock rod usually breaks on the power stroke because of increased cylinder pressure caused by boost, unless it breaks when you're revving it over the limit like you would if it were n/a.
And if you break eagle rods n/a, (yeah right) the rods you would replace them with would end up being heavier anyway. Unless you want to run eagle's new titanium rods, $$..ouch..

p.s. Type r cams are the way to go for a high whp turbo b series, not b16 cams..what does that say about duration/overlap/lift..?

[87_HaTcH]

there is a place to get parts off all sorts for our cars but no body knows where to get them. I think some people on here prolly kno but they dont want to tell people. Go TO
www.kmodifiedracing.com
Go to pruducts and then 86-89 accord
they got everything call em and see what they can do.
DOes anyone else know about this web-site?

[gfrg88]

OMFG!! where did you find that site?!? ive never seen it before and theyve got all the parts that i have been looking for just for our cars, where exactly is this shop located at? this is awsome :rockon:

[Strugglebucket]

that shop went bankrupt or something. they just sort of disappeared and still owed a lot of people money and parts.

[Legend_master]

that shop went bankrupt or something. they just sort of disappeared and still owed a lot of people money and parts.


damn that's a shame, as I was reading that site all I could think about is the potential for an all motor a20.

[gfrg88]

^^thats exactly what i was thinking, damn that really sucks so were back to basically all on our own :/

[Accordtheory]

damn that's a shame, as I was reading that site all I could think about is the potential for an all motor a20.

What do you care, you're rockin the b series.. vtec powa!!

..after your wiring harness is fixed anyway..lol

[Legend_master]

What do you care, you're rockin the b series.. vtec powa!!
..after your wiring harness is fixed anyway..lol


I know, but I still wouldent mind seeing some all motor a20. I think with the right parts you could pull some great numbers out of them.