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azazel_18_2
11-11-2005, 02:17 PM
I recently rebuilt my A20A3 and wanted the best internals. I wanted some good rod bearings and nobody had any high performance bearings. I did some research and ended up buying some rod bearings for a B18A/B. They work perfectly. I just thought I would add some info that I hadn't heard on here yet.

white ricer
11-11-2005, 02:40 PM
good find man that great to know. What brand bearings were they?

2drSE-i
11-11-2005, 10:57 PM
i was about to scream at white ricer for driving at 6.5k RPM without a seatbelt.

hes just lucky i can see the spedo :-P

way to research before you post dude! nice find

Robs89LXi
11-12-2005, 06:10 AM
For A20A3:

ACL: Rod bearings - p/n 4B1946
Main bearings - p/n 5M1947

bobafett
11-12-2005, 11:16 AM
i dont have the part numbers on me, but KING makes a sweet tri metal bearing for the a20 as well. :) i can post part numbers eventually. :)

Ace
11-12-2005, 12:37 PM
Hey robs whats the price on those parts if you do not mind me asking

Robs89LXi
11-12-2005, 01:23 PM
My machinist got them for me. Cost was $120 for both sets (rods + mains).

azazel_18_2
11-14-2005, 08:24 AM
ANy brand will work. I got Toga rod bearings. I was a little skeptical at first but when I got them in they were identical. They are working out great in my 3g

white ricer
11-14-2005, 01:22 PM
i was about to scream at white ricer for driving at 6.5k RPM without a seatbelt.
hes just lucky i can see the spedo :-P
way to research before you post dude! nice find
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Lmao :rofl: :rofl: i was waiting for someone to catch that

b8er
11-14-2005, 05:05 PM
weird, my no-seatbelt indicator is up above the gas gauge, did they change for any given year or was it a case of auto to manual?

stat1K
11-14-2005, 08:50 PM
i think it was an auto/manual thing. sweet about the rod bearings, i've been looking for some myself.

halxi
11-14-2005, 09:59 PM
mines a 5spd, its on the cover in front of the rear view mirror... no surprise that the drivers side is burnt out, haha

white ricer
11-15-2005, 01:09 PM
i have one there and on the dome light... wierd?

Kabuki
11-22-2005, 12:14 AM
The Rod bearing part numbers are are either 13211-PK1-751, or 13211-PC6-003. Both are identical. They fit 2G/3G Accords, Preludes (3G carbed only) and Integras.
The main bearings are 13321-PC6-003 and fit 84-5/3G Accords, and 2G Preludes.
If anyone is interested, I can ship out both sets anywhere in the US for $90 shipped. And you have your choice of NDC or ACL bearings.

touring 1
11-22-2005, 09:06 PM
not to burst anybody's bubble,, I replace my bearings from NAPA for 40 bones. on the car. the trick isnt the quality of hte bearings, but the quality of the oil. you run synthetic in any performance modded car, the bearings will never see any wear, per my friend who build rabbit engines to race in ovals at 9 grand second gear! So, my advice, having learned this, replace your bearings in anything over 200 K miles, it is easy, cheap, and reassuring after you start hearing rod knock in your $200 POS (Mine!) (which I love, and am fiercely resisting my wifes encouragement to have it towed to the yard. after I replace the fuel pump, I will go for the oil pump, cus it is really slow to build pressure and I can hear the mains knocking on startup. see next post.

bobafett
11-23-2005, 10:00 AM
cheap bearings are a shame to use if you are rebuilding your motor. a set of nice bearing are 90-120, and thats worth it IMO. sort of like using a napa timing belt vs a honda timing belt... its a no brainer to me.

synthetic oil will stay stable longer, but grime in the oil will do the same damage. regular oil changes will help more than synthetic vs dyno oil, but i agree that synthetic oil usually frees up a hp or two and is never a bad idea on a new motor. dont just go using it on a tired motor cause it can cause our seals to leak