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RamThis
12-01-2005, 01:22 AM
Ok, now that my other major problem is fixed, the motor mounts, I need to move on to the next big thing in the near future. This engine leaks oil like a sieve!! It appears to be leaking from under the valve cover, around the distributor and/or from under the head near the distributor, from the oil pan gasket, possibly rear main seal, and from some breather looking apparatus that has a tube connected to it leading to the oil pan on the backside of the engine.

I know the oil pan is straightforward, drop the center crossmember and downpipe from the exhaust, and voila, access.

Valve Cover is self explanatory as well....but.....

How do I replace the rear main seal with the engine in the car? Is it possible? Or do I have to pull the crank???

What is that breather on the back of the engine that connects to the oil pan? Oil looks like the oil is more coming from the tube connecting to that thing than from that breather thing itself. Is this a common leaking point?

And am I to assume the distributor is straightforward to replace the O-ring? Just pull the two screws and it should pop right out?



I have to put new CV shafts in the car eventually as they are making noise in a turn, though the boots are in good condition (180K miles on them though). I figure while I had the car down for CV's I would start chasing down and fixing oil leaks.

A20A1
12-01-2005, 01:34 AM
The Breather is the PCV valve Oil Seperator. It is supposed to be there because it has baffles inside the box that help keep oil from getting sucked into the PCV vavle and then into the intake manifold.
You need to keep all of your PCV system working properly.

The distributor O-Ring requires you to unbolt the two bolts securing the Distributor to the cylinder head... before you loosen any bolts make some scratches in the metal on the head and scratch into the distributor arm... that will later become your allignment mark so you don't have to set your ignition timing with a timing light after you reinstall the distributor.

I used a big beefy O-ring that I got from a hardware store... it had some trouble fitting into the cam bearing hole the distributor slides in. Once I got it in the O-ring never leaked... honestly the replacement O-Ring you get is too thin.

A20A1
12-01-2005, 01:36 AM
Many members have reported a simple fix to their rough idle problems...
http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=48173

that link is the most recent.

It goes to show that your PCV system, when healty will help your engine run better.

Kabuki
12-01-2005, 11:36 AM
The distributor O-Ring requires you to unbolt the two bolts securing the Distributor to the cylinder head... before you loosen any bolts make some scratches in the metal on the head and scratch into the distributor arm... that will later become your allignment mark so you don't have to set your ignition timing with a timing light after you reinstall the distributor.

I used a big beefy O-ring that I got from a hardware store... it had some trouble fitting into the cam bearing hole the distributor slides in. Once I got it in the O-ring never leaked... honestly the replacement O-Ring you get is too thin.

That just depends upon the distributor. The 30110-PA1-732 Distributor O-Ring was originally just for the Tec distributors. It works great for all of them. But the Hitachi dizzies originally used the 30110-PC6-005, which is the same outside diameter, but is thicker. Honda discontinued it (the PC6) a couple years ago claiming that the PA1 was "close enough". I have recently found that one of my vendors was able to order some more PC6 units directly from the manufacturer, Ishino. So I have some if anyone wants them.

The rear crank seal does not require removal of the engine, OR the crankshaft itself from the vehicle. But it DOES require removal of the transmission. you'll want part number 91214-PH3-751. That does supercede to some newer numbers, but they are all the same seal and manufacturer.

russiankid
12-01-2005, 01:28 PM
replace the valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, the little rubber o-ring that goes where the distrubitor hooks to the cam, the seal where you screw your oil filter onto, its the whole hosing thing or w/e, i forgot how its call, but it is held by 3 nuts, PIA but its do able
Good Luck!

A20A1
12-01-2005, 06:00 PM
That just depends upon the distributor. The 30110-PA1-732 Distributor O-Ring was originally just for the Tec distributors. It works great for all of them. But the Hitachi dizzies originally used the 30110-PC6-005, which is the same outside diameter, but is thicker. Honda discontinued it (the PC6) a couple years ago claiming that the PA1 was "close enough". I have recently found that one of my vendors was able to order some more PC6 units directly from the manufacturer, Ishino. So I have some if anyone wants them.

The rear crank seal does not require removal of the engine, OR the crankshaft itself from the vehicle. But it DOES require removal of the transmission. you'll want part number 91214-PH3-751. That does supercede to some newer numbers, but they are all the same seal and manufacturer.


as long as you sell it to me for 10 cents or less. :) other wise I'll stick with my hardware store.

Kabuki
12-01-2005, 10:30 PM
as long as you sell it to me for 10 cents or less. :) other wise I'll stick with my hardware store.


I'll stick with the one that's made for the application... BTW, what is your O-Ring supposed to be from?


Applicable part numbers to this thread:

Pan gasket 11251-PC6-010
VC Gasket 12341-PH4-000
VC Washer 90441-PC6-000
Oil Filter Housing Gasket 15205-PC6-014
Lower Breather hose 11854-PC6-010

RamThis
12-01-2005, 11:35 PM
I have recently found that one of my vendors was able to order some more PC6 units directly from the manufacturer, Ishino. So I have some if anyone wants them.




What would you want for a couple? Got Paypal?

Thanks for the info as well. :rockon:

Kabuki
12-02-2005, 10:03 AM
$2.00 Each, mailed to you. PM me if you want them. :)