Heater Blower Motor On High with Low cfm output at vents.

[kilgorq]

Hey Guys haven't been in for awhile but I need some help again with these ones.
1) When I have the heater fan set to high I get very little air out of the vents. I have run across something similar on an Acura Legend and they had a filter between the Blower assembly and the Heater core that was plugged up. I do not see one on my accord though. Is there something I am missing or do I actually have to pull the blower out.
2) Also the car takes forever to warm up even after replacing the thermostat. It takes about 30 minutes to get to normal operating temperature. My other Accord only takes about 5-7 Minutes. Why???

[Oldblueaccord]

Well the only thing I know as far as the car warming up really just need to drive it. It should warm up in about 5 miles normal driving. Letting it idle yeah it will take mine atleast 15 minutes to goto full warm up and I'm sure your alot colder then me.

You could try putting some cardboard in front of the radiator. Experiment with the size of it to get it up to temp. you want. I hadda do it all the time on my old Hondas when I lived up north.


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[smufguy]

exactly what Oldblue said, i have the same thing too. its not that the flow is lower, its just u dont feel it like u feel the cold air. put it on recirculation and then switch it to fresh so u wont fog up ur interiors.

[lamontlamont]

if the motor isnt blowing as hard as it is supposed to that is a sign of your motor dying . you dont have to remove anything to test it. just go under the dash and you will see the plug plugged into the motor, remove the plug and run some jumper wires from the battery directly to the motor. if it runs at full speed it isnt the motor and is probably the switch, if it runs slow it is the motor and will have to be replaced. i replaced mine and it is a beeoch to replace but its not that hard if you are a decent mechanic i hope you have small hands.
also clean the contacts on the plug cause sometimes tarnish can reduce the speed.

[Honda-Master]

87 ccords do not have a cabin filter like some of the newer accords,, in your case the evap could be partially plugged thus minimizing air flow..

[smufguy]

There is a small foam filter on the side of the fan blower that filters the cabin air under recirc mode.

[Honda-Master]

if blower motor fan speed all work properly and fan speed is on high with low air flow ,,,you got a partially plugged evap or misadjusted heater control doors ..

[kilgorq]

I Think I will just start tearing into it and find out what the problem is. The guy I got it from smoked in it a lot with the windows up. There was a nicotine film on everything and I would bet the evaporator core is no exception. I Also noticed that the warming up slow was more about the heater and not the engine temp. The car get to normal operating temp in about 10 minute but the heater takes about 30 minute to make it feel warm inside the car. ??? I am wondering if I may have a plugged up heater core on top of the fan problem. I Might as well kill 2 birds with one stone. Remove the evaporator, seal the holes and replace the heater core. Is there any problems that I will find from removing the evaporator. (Besides No AC)

[NXRacer]

you might have a vac leak thats not opening up the directionals correctly, or you could have broken fins on your blower.

[Oldblueaccord]

You know check this out too. Make sure your 10 amp fuse for like I think your AC isnt blown. The fuse box under the dash. Mine was loose a few times last year and NONE of my heater/hi-lo/vent/defrost lights would light up. My fan would blow but there wasnt hardly any air blowing outta anything. It was air to no where. Just a thought.


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[kilgorq]

So here is a very specific description.
Electrical checks out good... Fan is getting the correct input voltage for all speeds. The heater is changing from defrost to heat to vent just fine.
Fan Sounds normal on high. If you feel around the housing near the firewall there is cold air coming out of the seam between the blower and the AC section. This is almost like the blower is trying to force air into a restriction.
The Heater core has not been flow tested yet but could be a problem. I doubt that it is all of the problem. Becase it will get warm in the car after a half hour. Warm not hot.
The decrease in air flow is about 30% lower than that of my other accord. (Same Year with more miles)
I Just had to replace all of the bypass hoses because they broke when the thermostat went out. I also noticed that there was some water on the interior of the car. I have been watching for a leaky core but it doesn't appear to be leaking. Also the antifreeze level has been consistant and does not seem to have lost any water. I do however suspect a plugged core because the thermostat had a lot of rust and other buildup on it. Plus it is the only part of the cooling system that is not new.
I probably will try flushing the cooling system before I go any further. if I get no good results the blower will come out next and be inspected for broken fan baldes and any obstructions. If that all looks ok I will pull the AC Condensor and Heater Ccore out and clean them up real good.
From there I will figure out what to do next if I still haven't found the problem.

[Honda-Master]

yo Kil..........the air flow goes from blower through the evaporator ,, if it is plugged it will restrict air flow i have seen a few of those plug up after so many years ..........chk the evap out before you start thinking about a bad core..........On the interior of car was it water or coolant??? if you have been running the a/c the water you see could be coming from a plugged drain hose on the evap ( plugged evap ) .. if it is coolant it is the heater core leaking

[Kabuki]

I must agree with H-M... And no, there is NOT a filter in these Accords. The foam of which Smufguy refers is not a filter, but a seal around the air flow control doors. The blower should be easy enough to remove, just pull it and remove all of the debris that is in that chamber.

[POS carb]

1) there is no cabin filter, the blower pushes firsth through the evaporator and then through the heater/vent box. If you have low output either A there is a leak (usually between the blower housing and evaporator) or its time to change your blower. I had no idea mine was bad until I hooked up a volt meter and saw how much current it was sucking.
2) warmup should be pretty quick if you have a proper thermostat, don't run the heater while its warming up either if you want it to heat faster, the heater plumbing bypasses the thermostat.

[kilgorq]

yo Kil..........the air flow goes from blower through the evaporator ,, if it is plugged it will restrict air flow i have seen a few of those plug up after so many years ..........chk the evap out before you start thinking about a bad core..........On the interior of car was it water or coolant??? if you have been running the a/c the water you see could be coming from a plugged drain hose on the evap ( plugged evap ) .. if it is coolant it is the heater core leaking
The AC is wasted. The last owner rear-ended someone and that is why I got the car for free. I Had to replace the fuel pump and carb but that was all. I Could not detect any coolant in the water I noticed and it very well could have been snow that was tracked in. Also if the core was leaking, I think I would have problems with the defroster fogging up the windows instead of defrosting them. I am just going to have to get out in the nice cold weather and pull the blower out. Or tolorate it until the weather gets a little better. It has been below freezing here for almost 3 weeks. Great time for my heater to malfunction... ( Modifed Murphys Law " If anything can go wrong it will at the most unoppertune time" ) But then again if the weather was in the 40s or more I would not even be using the heater... I Just need my heater to warm up the steering wheel, Shifter and defrost the windows. Plus the rear defroster quit working today.
This car is falling apart quickly. In the last month
1) Died during a snow strom and left my wife stranded. When I got there it started right up and has not acted up. (??? Wet Disty I Think ???)
2) Pass Side CV going out.
3) Blew 2 Bypass hoses. (Replace thermostat and hoses)
4) Clutch starting to slip
5) Heater Blower Not Blowing well
6) Pass Door latch quit working... (Bad Latch)
7) Rear defroster Died
8) Blown tire on Pass side front. ( Les Schwab will not warranty---Blaming CV Axel)
9) Trunk will not latch without slaming it.
10) 3 of 4 Speakers blown out ( Cheap POS Speakers )
Theres more but I cant remember them all. I Am seriously considering just parting it out and using the carb and trans on my 1985 A20A1 Prelude. ( Fun Project that was... And after all the work just to find the trans does not work in 2nd and 5th.)
But all in all I cant complain I have about $30.00 invested into this car. Not counting tires. and We have been driving if for over a year. It has saved me tons of money on fuel.

[Kabuki]

7) Check the fuse... :)
8) Try a different Les Schwab. Here in Salem, we have four, though that's kind of a lot for one town.
9) Try adjusting the strike plate. You may need to add a small shim.

[Oldblueaccord]

Try running your vents on the REC mode as much as you can without fogging the windows up. Help store up some of that heat in the cab.


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