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View Full Version : jdm rebiuld final questions for the gods carot, rob, yk



mykwikcoupe
12-09-2005, 08:50 PM
Ok so Im in the process of tearing down one of my spare engines for rebiuld as I install my other one. Im waiting on the LSD and Im thinking Ill use the small setup till I get the rebiuld done right and all. Ive been reading over a bunch of old posts but wanted to touch base again just to make sure.

Ive got a USDM clutch and pressure plate but using the JDM flywheel. this means I do not have the gring my bell housing like yk did since he used the usdm flywheel correct?

Next, Im in need of a crank pully, is there one that matches that i can use or that anyone has lying around?

Im getting my cams reground to b18a turbo specs. Ill probably go to delta since there local and all. Any thoughts while thats getting done

The head is getting a basic port just a smoothening of the curves and such. Its a really good design as is so Im not going to mess with it much. Id like to get a ITR manifold but cant find one for a decent price anywheres. Will the bbk manifold work or does it conflict with the dizzy? Thats a carot question. I think if the bbk one doesnt fit the JG/Edelbrock is my next choice?

OK so for applications the car is going to biult as a street/strip car. T3T4OE precision turbo 60/63 with a 54 trim. stage 3 wheel and dual ball bearings. Im using a precision 25x3.5x6.25 FMIC. OBD1 swap, Uberdtata with a P06 dizzy, MSD 6AL not sure what rev chip Ill use yet have to tune it to see if the 550cc injectors will be enough up top. Ive got a HKS super sequential Blow off, tial 35mm wastegate, HKS evc 4 for boost controller,

Im not sure if I was to shot peen the rods and have them polished if that would be enough or if i should just get new rods. I know rob had issues with his pauters so im leaning more towards the stockers with wok done. I think there forged but not sure if they are H beams or I beams. Ill find out when i get to the bottom end.

Ive been looking at psitons. I will not go low compression as it kills the low end drivablility. Im looking at the srp 9.1 or 9.3 pistons but does honda use total seal or file fit rings. tunertoys.com has a special right now on srp pistons. Basically 400 shipped.

So that being said I want the car to be a consistant low 12s car full interior no cage street drivable car. I run a very modified suspnsion since Im an autocrosser first. DC strut bar, koni reds modified by gordon at koni with sprint springs, poly bushings, addco bars, the whole 9.

any thought on anything Im missing Oh heres my clutch think it will hold or should i go with a 6 puck sprung?
http://www.advancedclutch.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=860&amake=Honda&amodel=Prelude&ayear=1988&aengine=2000cc,%20212mm

if thers any other tips or whatnot please let me know this is a one shot deal once this rebiuld is done Im done. This has been a 4 year process Ive got over 15k invested in this car with tons of extra parts. Ive spent over 3k in the last 2 months redesigning my setup. I want it perfect the first time.

Options, darton sleeves, 1050 installed,
o-ring job, never heard of one that worked on a honda yet
aftermarket TB and fuel rail
lightened flywheel
powdered polished crank

AccordEpicenter
12-09-2005, 09:41 PM
Bah, dont need sleeves. Lightweight flywheels are cool. You dont need an aftermarket fuel rail. I have no idea about that clutch, i think you should give clutchnet a call and see what they can do for you. As for rob, the pauters required notching, and the machine shop didnt install them with enough clearance, so the actual rods were fine, its just that the machine shop screwed up. You can run stock rods (shotpeened w/good rod bolts) or aftermarket rods. Aftermarket rods are soo cheap that it might be worth it to get them because they wont require any machine shop work to prep them, like the stockers would. Dont use total seal rings, hondas use file fit rings, and thats what you should use for a boosted setup. Im not sure about that intake manifold though