Weber Carb problem that I'm stumped on....

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Well frankly I'm getting quite peaved with the accord right now. When I try to start the car it smokes and pops out of the carb. I re-jetted the carb.
CLICK HERE FOR UPDATED! WEBER JET TUNING INFO, MUST READ IF YOU OWN A WEBER (http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4223)

I haven't upgraded the fuel pump yet but I highly doubt it's the pumps issue. It's got to be something with the carb.

When I try to start it without pressing on the gass pedal it seems like it gets running but it quits. When I try starting it with pressing on the gas it smokes and pops.

I lost my Weber book so I can't use that to trouble shoot.

I installed my FPR and Fuel pressure gauge b/c I wanted to make sure I had decent fuel pressure.

My fuel pressure is right on the 3 psi. I also changed my fuel filter element.

I have had problems setting the choke for winter but the car was running fine up until a few days ago when this started happening. I mean there's quite a bit of smoke coming out.

I also had it running this morning to pull it in the garage but now it's doing this crap again.

I put a can of that heat in the gas tank and also poured some Seafoam down the carb.

I love the car but it never seems to want to treat me right. Someone please help me out I'm out of ideas of what to do.

Oh yeah I rebuilt the carb last winter in school. And I bought the Weber rebuild kit and not the generic one.

Could it be something wrong with the power valve or accelerator pump?

And it's been a real gas hog so that's the main reason I re-jetted the carb. I put a dual pump 055 jet instead of the dual 060 that I had in there.

Change the main & secondary jets. And both air correction jets. I also changed the primary idle jet.

Please please I hope someone knows what's wrong with it.

-Mike

[A20A1]

I dunno if this is your problem but check the float valve... it may be unscrewing from the top of the carb and putting pressure on the float needle causing it to cut off your fuel supply.

I forget what size socket the float valve uses.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

I will take the top hat off and check it out after lunch. Let me know if you think of anything else Mike.

Thanks again,
Mike

[StressSolutions]

Pops? like a backfire?You didn't mention checking timing. Nice that's been warm, huh?

[Mike's89AccordLX]

I haven't checked the timing b/c I know it should be good b/c it was running. I honestly think my electric choke is f***ed up. It was 100% closed yesterday and I remember setting it with it 100% open about a month ago. Either I'm setting it wrong or its screwed up. After I set it 100% open again it started up.

I'm thinking that had to been it. Too much gas and no air = smoke and maybe fire.

Anyways I found an exhaust leak while trying to set the carb again.
It's leaking right out of the header flange. I checked the bolts and some weren't very tight but one was stripped out. Actually the threads in the head are stripped out. Anyone know what I can do to fix that?

[88Accord-DX]

Timing as allways a good thing to check when it "pops/ backfires" out of the carb., along with valve lash setting.
If the bolts going into the head are stripped, you more than likely will need to tap them out & use bigger exhaust head bolts. Hopefulley you can find some the same length & don't have to tap out the exhaust header if they slide through.

[voiceinurhead05]

It's obvious that your fuel mixture is way too rich. This could be due to a choke malfunction, improper float level setting, and there is a small chance that it could be your fuel pump (I'd say it's worth checking). Another thing that people overlook sometimes is the cooling system. Since the thermostat has such an influence on what the carb does, it's important to make sure that your antifreeze is clean and that your thermostat is functioning properly. The thermostat is responsible for opening the choke (pain in the ass if you ask me) and balacing out the air fuel mixture during the fast idle/ warm up process.

[A20A1]

I haven't checked the timing b/c I know it should be good b/c it was running. I honestly think my electric choke is f***ed up. It was 100% closed yesterday and I remember setting it with it 100% open about a month ago. Either I'm setting it wrong or its screwed up. After I set it 100% open again it started up.
I'm thinking that had to been it. Too much gas and no air = smoke and maybe fire.



Make sure the distributor bolts haven't shaken themselves loose.

Try changing the idle jets to something leaner... then you can close the choke more without the carb being so rich. You have a good accel jet so I think you'll still be okay when you stomp the pedal. If you get sputtering, bog, hesitation when the car is fully warm and choke open you're either too lean or too rich. You can find online tuning help for your weber, I found some in the past. I just liked having the book cause it was convineint.

You might want to check your valve lash... make sure your valves are closing.
If you get odd idle surges check the valve timing.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Alright I leaned out the mixture and got it running and then I set it to Stoich. I had to install a heli-coil for one of my header bolts.

I noticed that I couldn't always hear the fuel pump when I keyed on. And when I got the car running I was only getting like 2.8psi

I popped open that cover above the gas tank and was just checking out how hard it would be to install my new carter fuel pump.

I only saw 2 wires and 1 hose.

Could I just disconnect those 2 wires and put them on the new pump and connect hose to the new pump and leave the old pump not hooked up but in the gas tank? I just don't want to hassle with old rusty bolts and making a fuel pick-up tube that is correct.

Would I be able to leave the old pump in the tank not hooked up and be ok?

My vacuum gauge reads a constant 17 or 18 so I don't think I have any engine problems that's causing it.

-Mike

[HondaBoy]

i would think you'd want to put the new pump in the tank. it was really easy to remove and replace the fuel pump in my accord. i think all i had to do was put some new crimp connections on the wires and it was as simple as that wiring it up. i got a carter replacement some time back. its worked great since then. i think it would work better to take the old pump out though. they get awfully clogged as does the screen on the pickup.

[Cant Stop]

what kind of carter did you use? is it like a replacement for ours or generic? model number would help thanx.

[A20A1]

just get a fuel line to replace the gap where the pump goes, and make sure the pickup isn't disturbed.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

I just went to the store and ordered a carter replacement pump and assembly. It will make it easier to install. And I will sell my other carter pump.

I hope that the stock replacement carter pump has good psi where I would need to keep my FPR and gauge on still. Otherwise I really wouldn't need them.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Alright I installed the Carter stock replacement fuel pump. It took a little bit the assembly to sit in the tank properly but it wasn't hard at all.

The fuel pressure was reading 4.5 to 5 psi so I will have to knock it down to 3.5 psi. Took about 30 minutes to do from start to finish.

After I got the car running and set the idle at 1250 rpms I let it run for about 5 minutes and shut it off and started it back up and did that like 6 more times to make sure it would start right away and not acting like it was before.

Cost me $130 but now I have the car running again and hopefully with the new jets in I will be a little more fuel efficient.

-Mike

[Mike's89AccordLX]

So to set my FPR I want to do that with the car not running right? But when the car is off the pressure goes back down to 0. So do I just use the trial and error procedure or do I adjust it while the car is running? I bought a Holley adjustable fuel regulator. A20A1 recomended that in a post awhile back. Gotta do what the carb gods tell you I guess ;)

-Mike

[A20A1]

I think it depends on the pump and the regulator if pressure drops when the car is turned off.

Pressure between the reg and the carb will drop too.

The car needs to be running to set the psi.

[lostforawhile]

you need to set it while it's running,and adjust it slow so it has a chance to stabilize, and i hope the carb gods intervene with that intank carter pump,thats the biggest pos i've ever run into, I went through a bunch of them in a row before they gave me my money back and i got a different brand. I'm having ok luckwith the masterpower pump but i'm going to go to bosch because thats closest to factory.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Well hopefully I will have better luck with it. I will go out and set the fuel pressure correctly.

[lostforawhile]

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/2050000-2050999/2050019_79.jpg I think thats the same regulator,i have a digital fuel pressure gauge so thats the sender on one end of it.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Well when I went back out to adjust the fuel pressure it was like 2.5 psi and I was like wtf it was at 4.5psi before. So I adjusted it to a little over 3 psi and tightend it up. I drove the car to get some gas and it seems to run pretty good. My air/fuel gauge is saying it's leaning out at idle though so I might need to change an idle jet or just leave it to save gas ;)

-Mike

[A20A1]

if the car is idling it might say it's lean... it depends on your o2 sensor too. Mine would cool off and give bad readings.

A wide band gauge and a heater sensor will be better if you want to be sure what your running.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Thanks a lot Mike. I think I will just get at cheap heated sensor. I forgot how inaccurate the 1 wire sensors are.

-Mike

The car idles fine but 1 out of 10 times it might diesel on. That's a little embarassing so any hints for that?

[A20A1]

Idle speed too high or ignition timing too far advanced.

CLICK HERE FOR UPDATED! WEBER JET TUNING INFO, MUST READ IF YOU OWN A WEBER (http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4223)