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civic_90_08
01-11-2006, 04:54 PM
Ok...i have a 87 Accord Hatch, its a Lx-i and i want to lower it...i want it to look nice and i want it to handle good, whats the best way to do it, i have $150 to my name and i was wondering how it would ride if i just got springs...

some one help me with this...i need to know soon!


thanks,
Jordan

gfrg88
01-11-2006, 05:55 PM
did you look at the top of this section??? it has a crap load of info you want about lowering and handling, just search around a little

3gn86lxi
01-11-2006, 06:29 PM
Just use the SEARCH feature, then read. You really can't do it right for that amount of money though.
Good luck.

AZmike
01-11-2006, 07:53 PM
You can't have 'look nice' and 'handle good' for $150. The worn stock shocks won't be able to control the stiffer springs you're considering.

civic_90_08
01-11-2006, 08:22 PM
...ok then whats going to happen if i do get springs?

AZmike
01-11-2006, 08:25 PM
The damper’s main function is to stop the suspension from oscillating. They work in both the compression (bump) stroke and rebound (extension) stroke. Compression damping effectively adds to the springs rate, reducing how much the suspension compresses for a given bump. Higher compression settings make the ride noticeably rougher. Rebound damping dissipates the energy stored in the compressed spring, preventing the wheel from being pushed back so fast that the car continues to bounce after the bump.

Springs that are stiffer than stock require dampers that are stronger than stock. Switching the springs and leaving the old worn out dampers or simply replacing them with OEM equivalents will leave you with a bouncy, floaty ride. If you don’t have enough money for good shocks and springs and you want to improve how your car handles, just get quality dampers—they make a bigger difference. Just swapping springs will lower the car, but it will be so unsettled through anything but smooth, constant radius corners that you lose much of the handling benefit of the stiffer, shorter springs.


Shock v. Struts

Third generation Accords do not have struts. Strut suspension (MacPherson strut) uses only a lower control arm, a toe link (rear) or steering link (front), and the strut to locate and support the suspension. Our cars use upper control arms to locate the suspension and coilover shocks to support the car. The springs surround the shocks so it is a coilover configuration—coilover doesn’t mean threaded and adjustable.


Damper options for the third generation Accord:

Koni Specials
no longer made, but sometimes available used
Good for springs up to about 350 lb/in without revalving
Rebound adjustable; can be converted to external adjustable or rebuilt

Bilstien HD
Quality OEM replacements as purchased (not for use with stiffer springs without revalve)
Can be revalved with specified compression and rebound settings; instructions below
Non adjustable

Tokico
About 10% stiffer than stock
Many users with stiffer springs notice bounce, especially in the front

KYB GR-2
About 10% stiffer than stock according to KYB
Generally considered an OEM replacement

Everything else available is an OEM replacement.


Lowering much more than about 2” puts your shocks at the risk of being bottomed out frequently depending on the condition of your bumpstops. Shocks are designed to stop oscillation, not support the car. Bottoming them out can quickly destroy them. This damage is typically not covered under any warranty.


How to get Bilsteins revalved (from Jim):

If you purchase the shocks from www.shox.com, ask to speak to Darrell. Tell him you want Bilstein HD shocks for the 86-89 accord part numbers are B36-1135, B36-1136, and for the rears you'll need 2 B36-1089. Tell Darrell that you want them revalved by Bilstien and that you have the specs that Jack French at Bilstein needs. 100 for compression and 300 for rebound works well for H&R/Neuspeed. Stiffer springs willl probably work better with higher settings around 110 and 340. Factory Bilstein specs are 46 compression, 195 rebound. Speak with Jack French at Bilstein (1-800-537-1085) if you're unsure about what settings are likely to work well for you.

The price will be:
the cost of the shocks ~$370
the shipping to Bilstein
the revalve fee is $65 per shock $260
return shipping charges from Bilstein to you

If anyone already has the shocks or if they buy them off another vendor like eshocks.com you can send them to Bilstein yourself:
Krupp Bilstein of America
14102 Stowe Dr.
Poway, Ca 92064
Attn: Jack French

They will only work on your parts if you pay the revalve fee in advance or use a credit card. Turnaround time is about a month.

civic_90_08
01-12-2006, 05:24 PM
The damper’s main function is to stop the suspension from oscillating. They work in both the compression (bump) stroke and rebound (extension) stroke. Compression damping effectively adds to the springs rate, reducing how much the suspension compresses for a given bump. Higher compression settings make the ride noticeably rougher. Rebound damping dissipates the energy stored in the compressed spring, preventing the wheel from being pushed back so fast that the car continues to bounce after the bump.

Springs that are stiffer than stock require dampers that are stronger than stock. Switching the springs and leaving the old worn out dampers or simply replacing them with OEM equivalents will leave you with a bouncy, floaty ride. If you don’t have enough money for good shocks and springs and you want to improve how your car handles, just get quality dampers—they make a bigger difference. Just swapping springs will lower the car, but it will be so unsettled through anything but smooth, constant radius corners that you lose much of the handling benefit of the stiffer, shorter springs.


Shock v. Struts

Third generation Accords do not have struts. Strut suspension (MacPherson strut) uses only a lower control arm, a toe link (rear) or steering link (front), and the strut to locate and support the suspension. Our cars use upper control arms to locate the suspension and coilover shocks to support the car. The springs surround the shocks so it is a coilover configuration—coilover doesn’t mean threaded and adjustable.


Damper options for the third generation Accord:

Koni Specials
no longer made, but sometimes available used
Good for springs up to about 350 lb/in without revalving
Rebound adjustable; can be converted to external adjustable or rebuilt

Bilstien HD
Quality OEM replacements as purchased (not for use with stiffer springs without revalve)
Can be revalved with specified compression and rebound settings; instructions below
Non adjustable

Tokico
About 10% stiffer than stock
Many users with stiffer springs notice bounce, especially in the front

KYB GR-2
About 10% stiffer than stock according to KYB
Generally considered an OEM replacement

Everything else available is an OEM replacement.


Lowering much more than about 2” puts your shocks at the risk of being bottomed out frequently depending on the condition of your bumpstops. Shocks are designed to stop oscillation, not support the car. Bottoming them out can quickly destroy them. This damage is typically not covered under any warranty.


How to get Bilsteins revalved (from Jim):

If you purchase the shocks from www.shox.com, ask to speak to Darrell. Tell him you want Bilstein HD shocks for the 86-89 accord part numbers are B36-1135, B36-1136, and for the rears you'll need 2 B36-1089. Tell Darrell that you want them revalved by Bilstien and that you have the specs that Jack French at Bilstein needs. 100 for compression and 300 for rebound works well for H&R/Neuspeed. Stiffer springs willl probably work better with higher settings around 110 and 340. Factory Bilstein specs are 46 compression, 195 rebound. Speak with Jack French at Bilstein (1-800-537-1085) if you're unsure about what settings are likely to work well for you.

The price will be:
the cost of the shocks ~$370
the shipping to Bilstein
the revalve fee is $65 per shock $260
return shipping charges from Bilstein to you

If anyone already has the shocks or if they buy them off another vendor like eshocks.com you can send them to Bilstein yourself:
Krupp Bilstein of America
14102 Stowe Dr.
Poway, Ca 92064
Attn: Jack French

They will only work on your parts if you pay the revalve fee in advance or use a credit card. Turnaround time is about a month.
...so in other words its gonna ride like shit?

3gn86lxi
01-12-2006, 06:48 PM
Yep. If you get some cheap e-bay springs and use your old struts, it will ride like shit.......bottom out all the time also.
Save up and at least get a set of Tokico's. Thats what I ran for a while till I found my Koni's.
I'm dropped 3 inches in the front and 2.25 in the back, and the Tokico's were o.k.

civic_90_08
01-12-2006, 08:12 PM
Yep. If you get some cheap e-bay springs and use your old struts, it will ride like shit.......bottom out all the time also.
Save up and at least get a set of Tokico's. Thats what I ran for a while till I found my Koni's.
I'm dropped 3 inches in the front and 2.25 in the back, and the Tokico's were o.k.
do you still have your old ones?

3gn86lxi
01-12-2006, 08:16 PM
Yes, but I'm keeping them. Sorry
You can get a full set of four Tokico's for $209 plus shipping on e-bay.

civic_90_08
01-12-2006, 08:22 PM
yeah...but i need $200...lol, dang i need to find a job:sad2:

3gn86lxi
01-12-2006, 09:05 PM
yeah...but i need $200...lol, dang i need to find a job:sad2:
lol......

civic_90_08
01-14-2006, 09:49 AM
so...will CB or CD springs work on our 3geez?, i've heard and i seen where it said it in the top of the section...but i need to find out for myself...will and can they work, also the struts...???


EDIT:...i know they will now, but...its says coil overs, what about just lowering springs???...also, i wasnt going to slam it, and i wasnt going to use cheap~o~ebay springs...i was going to get something fairly nice...but i dont have enough money for struts....damn this is gettin confusing-i just counted up all my change and money together and i have $172.80...so

Acid X
01-14-2006, 12:08 PM
I hate to say this, but do yourself a favor.. Get a job first, and THEN worry about lowering your car. By then, you'll have the funds to do it right and you'll like it. If you just get springs you'll hate it.

gfrg88
01-14-2006, 02:50 PM
you need atleast $305.29 for a nice set-up lo, jk man just do what cory said and find yourself a job and then do it right, i want to upgrade my suspension too but i need to find a job too lol

civic_90_08
01-14-2006, 05:44 PM
yeah...but how bad would the ride be...thats what i want to know...i could handle it if its not to bad....i found some H&R race springs for about $150, there for a CB....www.kingmotorsports.com

3gn86lxi
01-14-2006, 05:50 PM
yeah...but how bad would the ride be...thats what i want to know...i could handle it if its not to bad....i found some H&R race springs for about $150, there for a CB....www.kingmotorsports.com
The ride may not be all that bad. But whats going to happen is your struts will bottom out, and eventually blow. Then you wont have any shocks basically.
I would say you could get springs and do the struts later.

civic_90_08
01-14-2006, 06:08 PM
i think thats what im goin to do man...i wanna do this...lol, im out


later
-Jordan

civic_90_08
01-15-2006, 06:54 PM
nvm........

civic_90_08
01-15-2006, 07:11 PM
i need to know y0...come on...

akylem
01-16-2006, 04:54 PM
whtever you do dont cut them mine is cut 3 coils in front and 4 coils in the rear rides like crap its like driving trapoliene

civic_90_08
01-16-2006, 04:58 PM
i wasnt plannin on doin something RETARTED like that...lol j/k

My b-day is March 7th so...im hopin i get cash if anything...so i can get my suspension done...





later
jordan

akylem
01-16-2006, 05:12 PM
i might be able to get a discount on the parts you need so find the part numbers you need send them along i work at a parts house

civic_90_08
01-16-2006, 08:37 PM
thanks...but i dont even know what im goin to do right now....im a little confused about what i should do...

thanks anyways

later
jordan