How to swap in a b series without a kit..pics inside

[Accordtheory]

Rather than jacking someone else's thread, I thought I'd start my own..Here is what I have done so far. Starting with the driver's side mount: This mount took me several hours to make. All of the mounts were made by butchering a set of crx swap mounts from innovativemounts.com. 75A hardness bushings for minimum movement in my soon to be high whp turbo application.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/814000-814999/814838_4_full.jpghttp://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/814000-814999/814838_5_full.jpg
Next we have the passenger side mount: Also done but not shown, strategic hammering of the engine bay adjacent to the tranny for clearance. And yes, I know that gloss black paint looks like shit!
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/814000-814999/814838_7_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/814000-814999/814838_6_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/814000-814999/814838_8_full.jpg
The back mount was very difficult. Look at the first pic of the integra bracket, major fitment issues. I had to cut a section out of it, bent it down, and patch it back together. See how nice and curved down it ended up? Then I fabbed up the piece that I welded onto the crossmember. No clearance problems, no moving brake lines, etc!
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/814000-814999/814838_9_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/814000-814999/814838_10_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/814000-814999/814838_11_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/814000-814999/814838_12_full.jpg

[Accordtheory]

next up: test fitting the 90-93 integra axles and installing the shift linkage...
I have an idea about how to simplify the shift linkage conversion without welding, I've done enought of that recently..we'll see.

[mkymonkey]

which b series is that?

[Justin86]

very cool work. I'm very interested in what will work for axles.

[getready]

so, like the first post i ever made on this site was asking about b-series swaps in these things, and like i got so much shit for it... NOW look at the site, theres like 3 b-swaps going on... I'm so pissed!

[SteveDX89]

so, like the first post i ever made on this site was asking about b-series swaps in these things, and like i got so much shit for it... NOW look at the site, theres like 3 b-swaps going on... I'm so pissed!

It's probably because you didn't search. I've got a B-series in my car. It's no big deal.

[getready]

it was more of a comment, i'm not really pissed. Nice work, bseries guys

[bobafett]

accord theory is also one of a handful of members who have successfully turbo'd there cars... he is a go getter, and and has the ambitions to actually carry his ideas out... so if he says hes gonna try something, its more than just talk (like most people who talk about b-series swaps on this board)

keep up the good work man, looks like a good project!

[Accordtheory]

Thanks, bobafett..

Having a b series is no big deal...If you have the kit. As far as I know, I am the only one to fabricate and complete the mounts myself. The mounts were a 2 day affair..and something I was a little intimidated by, but mostly because I am a perfectionist. After the leftover pri kits all get used up, hopefully my pics will help out someone who wants to do this on their own..

I want to upgrade to the 88-89 style front brakes, so I think I'll wait on the axles for that. (different spindles/steering knuckles, my car is an 87, no point in assembling it just to take it all apart again..)

In the meantime though, I'll post a pic of the shift linkage after I figure it out.

[Accordtheory]

which b series is that?
81.5mm b18a with a gsr crank, eagle rods, and endyn pistons. Since I just "junked" the car in cali to avoid another $600 in fines, It will soon b a gsr clone, with the vtec head. The only thing it won't have is the gsr/b16 oil squirters for the pistons. However, endyn pistons are like the best you can buy, and will hold any hp level you can create. I'll probably run a small external oil cooler, since the ls doesn't have one.
Eventually it will have:
victor x IM with my 740cc wrx injectors
either my current holset he341 turbo or something bigger on a nice manifold..
p28 ecu with neptune? I haven't read to many good things about hondata's s300 on H-T, so...
my tranny is a 93 ls ys1 with an action 2ms clutch.

[SteveDX89]

Thanks, bobafett..
Having a b series is no big deal...If you have the kit. As far as I know, I am the only one to fabricate and complete the mounts myself. The mounts were a 2 day affair..and something I was a little intimidated by, but mostly because I am a perfectionist. After the leftover pri kits all get used up, hopefully my pics will help out someone who wants to do this on their own..
I want to upgrade to the 88-89 style front brakes, so I think I'll wait on the axles for that. (different spindles/steering knuckles, my car is an 87, no point in assembling it just to take it all apart again..)
In the meantime though, I'll post a pic of the shift linkage after I figure it out.

There's another dude on there that posted his B16 swap. He made his mounts himself but he did use a PRI axle. He doesn't post here much and his car is kinda gay looking. I don't think I've ever seen a pic of your car.

[HondaSi88]

have you ever thought about selling these mounts? or making a few?

[ICEMAN707]

you got the same idea i have with an h-series using the same concept as putting an h22 in a crx. good job. let us know how that b-series works out after it's all done. :rockon:

[Accordtheory]

have you ever thought about selling these mounts? or making a few?
shit, the pri kit is a bargain compared to this effort..

[stat1K]

nice thread, the pri kit might be a bargain but it's also not that good.

[SteveDX89]

nice thread, the pri kit might be a bargain but it's also not that good.

How so? Granted they're not as pretty as Hasport mounts but they do the job.

[Accordtheory]

Stevedx89, you're right. Having a b series is no big deal, making the mounts yourself isn't either, lots of other people have made their own mounts, they just don't post pics for some reason, and nothing could ever be better than your precious pri kit.
...anyway...
Sarcasm aside, no, I don't think I'm the shit for doing this, and you know I haven't said anything negative about your pri kit either. I just thought it would be ridiculous for me to buy it when I've already invested in a mig welder, plasma cutter, etc. And I'm not paying top dollar for that shit either when I lose money on every fucking part I sell off.

Hasport? who cares..

What hardness are the bushings used in the pri kit?

I'm not saying my kit is better than the pri, but it is welded to reinforced surfaces, a strength result the pri kit could achieve if it were welded in too, so assuming the bushings are comparable, the only clear benefit is my back mount doesn't interfere with anything.

[Legend_master]

Stevedx89, you're right. Having a b series is no big deal, making the mounts yourself isn't either, lots of other people have made their own mounts, they just don't post pics for some reason, and nothing could ever be better than your precious pri kit.
...anyway...
Sarcasm aside, no, I don't think I'm the shit for doing this, and you know I haven't said anything negative about your pri kit either. I just thought it would be ridiculous for me to buy it when I've already invested in a mig welder, plasma cutter, etc. And I'm not paying top dollar for that shit either when I lose money on every fucking part I sell off.

Hasport? who cares..

What hardness are the bushings used in the pri kit?

I'm not saying my kit is better than the pri, but it is welded to reinforced surfaces, a strength result the pri kit could achieve if it were welded in too, so assuming the bushings are comparable, the only clear benefit is my back mount doesn't interfere with anything.


POS.......J/P those mounts look great and as for the axles. You have two options unless you go custom. Either use 90-93 integra axles and remove the dust ring from the passenger side hub or use a 90-93 integra driver side axles and an 86-89 passenger side axle. The onyl problem is that I don't think they have any high HP 86-89 integra axles. G/L with the swap.

[SteveDX89]

Stevedx89, you're right. Having a b series is no big deal, making the mounts yourself isn't either, lots of other people have made their own mounts, they just don't post pics for some reason, and nothing could ever be better than your precious pri kit.
...anyway...
Sarcasm aside, no, I don't think I'm the shit for doing this, and you know I haven't said anything negative about your pri kit either. I just thought it would be ridiculous for me to buy it when I've already invested in a mig welder, plasma cutter, etc. And I'm not paying top dollar for that shit either when I lose money on every fucking part I sell off.

Hasport? who cares..

What hardness are the bushings used in the pri kit?

I'm not saying my kit is better than the pri, but it is welded to reinforced surfaces, a strength result the pri kit could achieve if it were welded in too, so assuming the bushings are comparable, the only clear benefit is my back mount doesn't interfere with anything.

If you noticed, I just knocked my PRI kit. Hasport never made mounts for us but I wish they had. I would have bought those over PRI anyday. I'm not knocking your work. I think it's great. I was just wondering why that other dude was saying the PRI mounts are crap. They do the job they're supposed to do. No need to get all defensive. Plus you're the one who said buying the PRI kit would be a bargain compared to all this work.

[Accordtheory]

Sorry steve, I thought I was detecting a little hation from you. I still think the pri kit is a good way to go. Maybe even if you have welding equipment. If you cut a v section out of the rear integra mount bracket, I'm sure you could also lower the pri back mount to avoid having to clearance the brake lines or anything.

I'm still working on the shift linkage. actually, working on motivating myself to work on it.. I already have 90-93 integra axles, but they look kinda weak. "Yonaka motorsports" some crap off ebay..they have a smaller diameter than the accord shaft, I'll probably break them shortly after installing my holset turbo.

[SteveDX89]

Sorry steve, I thought I was detecting a little hation from you. I still think the pri kit is a good way to go. Maybe even if you have welding equipment. If you cut a v section out of the rear integra mount bracket, I'm sure you could also lower the pri back mount to avoid having to clearance the brake lines or anything.

I'm still working on the shift linkage. actually, working on motivating myself to work on it.. I already have 90-93 integra axles, but they look kinda weak. "Yonaka motorsports" some crap off ebay..they have a smaller diameter than the accord shaft, I'll probably break them shortly after installing my holset turbo.

I did weld in my rear mount and side bracket but boy my welding skills are piss poor at best. No way I would have attempted cutting that bracket apart and putting it back together. I dunno about the other guy but in addition to moving brake lines out of the way, I also had to pound a dent in the firewall to clear that rear mount. Kinda scary when you gotta beat on your car with a mallet.

[Legend_master]

I did weld in my rear mount and side bracket but boy my welding skills are piss poor at best. No way I would have attempted cutting that bracket apart and putting it back together. I dunno about the other guy but in addition to moving brake lines out of the way, I also had to pound a dent in the firewall to clear that rear mount. Kinda scary when you gotta beat on your car with a mallet.


I dident have to beat in the firewall at all, I just unbolted the brake lines and moved them up. I will be welding my tranny side mounting bracket in place on wednesday and I will also be rewelding the factory drivers side mount postition. I would recomend that to Accordtheory also, becuase honda did not weld those in there for a High performance motor. As for the back, I dont know if I am going to weld that or not. There really dosent seem to be that much need for it. It bolt down pretty snug and has alot of surface area to push agaisnt. Now if the motor TQed the other way I might worry about that mount pulling up or something. I think I will just let it go for now.

[SQ is the SQUAD]

i hope i am not classified as one of those people who always talk about b seires but never do it. i know i been putting my shit together for 3 years now but you gotta rember, its time permitting and i am doing alot more than just putting a b series in. allot of shit needs to be fabbed and i dont have a welder. right now in boston, its about 12 degress and snowing. i dont have a garage so i prob wont get back out to worknig on the car until march when it starts warming up.

right now i got a stock b18a form a 90 teg going in with my solex sidedrafts, and the custom wire harness. we all seen my pics, there around here and on h-t.

i am working on a b20b bottem end as we speak. this is the actuall motor i am going to be using for the car. trying to locate a p8r head for this setup

[SQ is the SQUAD]

for the tranny side mount i want to use this setup from a 96-00 civic.
http://img485.imageshack.us/img485/2975/trannymount16iq.jpg

i see it more simple to weld in

[Legend_master]

i hope i am not classified as one of those people who always talk about b seires but never do it. i know i been putting my shit together for 3 years now but you gotta rember, its time permitting and i am doing alot more than just putting a b series in. allot of shit needs to be fabbed and i dont have a welder. right now in boston, its about 12 degress and snowing. i dont have a garage so i prob wont get back out to worknig on the car until march when it starts warming up.

right now i got a stock b18a form a 90 teg going in with my solex sidedrafts, and the custom wire harness. we all seen my pics, there around here and on h-t.

i am working on a b20b bottem end as we speak. this is the actuall motor i am going to be using for the car. trying to locate a p8r head for this setup


It took me about a 1 and 1/2 years to get mine going, but that included finding the right car. I dont see you as one of those people. Because you actually put effort into getting the job done right, and purchasing the motor wasent a bad start either.

[SQ is the SQUAD]

i still got the 90 teg, i am going to be junking it soon. its a 4dr rs if anyone needs any parts. i took basically everythnig swap related.

i was also considering cutting the mount brackets out of that frame from my accord.

legend, did you have to cut your front cross member at all to get your header to fit, i know steve from CT with the ls/vtec had to knotch his

[Legend_master]

i still got the 90 teg, i am going to be junking it soon. its a 4dr rs if anyone needs any parts. i took basically everythnig swap related.

i was also considering cutting the mount brackets out of that frame from my accord.

legend, did you have to cut your front cross member at all to get your header to fit, i know steve from CT with the ls/vtec had to knotch his


I took it completely off. It is only there to support the transmission since there is no tranny mount. Sorry to thread jack Accordtheory

[Accordtheory]

You would recommend reinforcing the factory mount? It never occured to me that would be necessary..even with like 600whp. Have you ever tried to remove one of the factory mounts? I have, at my friends house with a disk grinder and a big hammer, and it was surprisingly difficult. We had to grind and beat the Shit out of that thing to get it to come off, especially for how thin the metal is. Those weird factory welds aren't bad.
Also, if you start welding around all those seams, you're going to be gagging on a huge amount of smoke and toxic shit, even after you try to clean away all the paint and that weird sealer shit honda puts all over their welds/body connections. If you don't clear away all that shit nicely, you'll end up with a lousy weld. You can turn up the gas flow and heat to try to vaporize that all that shit, but still..probably better to clean it as well as you can first.

[Legend_master]

You would recommend reinforcing the factory mount? It never occured to me that would be necessary..even with like 600whp. Have you ever tried to remove one of the factory mounts? I have, at my friends house with a disk grinder and a big hammer, and it was surprisingly difficult. We had to grind and beat the Shit out of that thing to get it to come off, especially for how thin the metal is. Those weird factory welds aren't bad.
Also, if you start welding around all those seams, you're going to be gagging on a huge amount of smoke and toxic shit, even after you try to clean away all the paint and that weird sealer shit honda puts all over their welds/body connections. If you don't clear away all that shit nicely, you'll end up with a lousy weld. You can turn up the gas flow and heat to try to vaporize that all that shit, but still..probably better to clean it as well as you can first.

One of my friend has swapped LS motors into a couple of CRX's and that mount has broken on bolth of them. I will be scrapping and sanding before I weld that mount, I dont really need to do it yet, but I figure I might as well before it ever becomes a problem.

[SQ is the SQUAD]

preperation is key

i have an angle grinder with wire brush ready to get down to bare metal before i start cutting and welding

[Accordtheory]

That is weird about the breakage..I know several people with b series motors in their crxs, and no problems. Could you post a pic of that broken mount at some point? Maybe the mount was being stressed in a way it shouldn't have been..although one friend of mine ran his crx at the dragstrip with no front mount, a stock rubber back mount, stock passenger side mount, and poly driver side mount. Maximum stress, no problems. What kind of mount setup was on the car that had that bracket break..?
disc grinder + wire brush is how i usually do it too, but on something like a mount, you can't get at every surface..

[Legend_master]

That is weird about the breakage..I know several people with b series motors in their crxs, and no problems. Could you post a pic of that broken mount at some point? Maybe the mount was being stressed in a way it shouldn't have been..although one friend of mine ran his crx at the dragstrip with no front mount, a stock rubber back mount, stock passenger side mount, and poly driver side mount. Maximum stress, no problems. What kind of mount setup was on the car that had that bracket break..?
disc grinder + wire brush is how i usually do it too, but on something like a mount, you can't get at every surface..


Well I dont have any pictures of the mount, but I can show you what I mean when I get home. It was the seem between the frame and the mount houseing that actaully seperated. Maybe his was rusted or something, but for it to happen to two seperate cars is just odd. He was running hasport mounts.

[my86dx4dr]

Thanks, bobafett..

Having a b series is no big deal...If you have the kit. As far as I know, I am the only one to fabricate and complete the mounts myself.
theres a guy here in oregon with a b16, he used all stock mounts from the 3 gee but the rear mount is custom

Pretty good swap too. the car is a work in progress but the motors is in and drives :welcome:

[SQ is the SQUAD]

theres a guy here in oregon with a b16, he used all stock mounts from the 3 gee but the rear mount is custom

Pretty good swap too. the car is a work in progress but the motors is in and drives :welcome:


is that the kid with the yellow 3g

[Accordtheory]

theres a guy here in oregon with a b16, he used all stock mounts from the 3 gee but the rear mount is custom

Pretty good swap too. the car is a work in progress but the motors is in and drives :welcome:

I'd be curious to see that..and not just to clown it..I'm actually curious. pics?

[Vanilla Sky]

you guys are forgetting juan (oldschoolswap). his first b16 was done custom.

[Legend_master]

you guys are forgetting juan (oldschoolswap). his first b16 was done custom.


I thought he had a PRI kit, I had no idea it was custom. That was the car that lead me to know that a b-series could go into a 3rd gen. I always liked the hatch, but I never considered buying one untill I saw his car.

[SQ is the SQUAD]

i miss juan

dont see him around much

[Accordtheory]

are there any pics of that setup floating around?

[SteveDX89]

First, about the notching of the crossmember. SQ is talking about the front one that goes across the car, not the front to back one. 88LXi68 had to make a big notch because he's got a 4-1 header. I have a 4-2-1 header and I just had to cut the lip off. You could probably clear it with the stock manifold or a 4-2-1 but I cut the lip off cause it was really close.

2nd, remember Juan's had 2 3g's. His first had a B16 with a custom swap kit. The 2nd had/has the PRI kit.

[Accordtheory]

I was, maybe still am, contemplating replacing the front crossmember with a different piece entirely. I'm trying to run a 3" downpipe through there. I won't run rod ends on my radius arms though, that is not a street setup. (no boot/lubrication)
After pulling my entire exhaust off today, I was observing how the a20 downpipe clears the front to back crossmember, by going parallel to it, but with the b series, I guess I'll have to remove it due to the oil pan being more in the way. I don't want to though, I like having as much structural integrity as I can get.

[Legend_master]

2nd, remember Juan's had 2 3g's. His first had a B16 with a custom swap kit. The 2nd had/has the PRI kit.



what did the first one look like?

[SteveDX89]

what did the first one look like?

Same as the 2nd. He took everything and swapped it over.

[Accordtheory]

a couple updates...I adapted an integra clutch cable to eliminate the ridiculous routing necessitated by the length of the stock cable..the integra cable itself (the inside) was too long (out of adjustment) so I had to cut a slot in a long nut, about an inch long, and fit it over the cable, hammering it flat to act as a spacer to take up the extra slack. I also used 2 of the same integra brackets on the valve cover, since the integra bay locates the cable a little differently. (stock integra 2 different brackets)

I had the wrong upper bracket for my p/s pump, they create a different offset for the different pulley configuration depending on the years (90-93/94-01)..so I got the right one, p/s setup is done, looks clean..had to modify the hoses though.

Still lagging on getting the steering knuckles so I can put my axles in..went the junkyard for the knuckes, ended up coming home with a whole b18..lol..but no knuckes..

So once I get this stupid thing refereed, in go my 740cc injectors and my holset turbo, most likely on a top mount manifold. There is thread on h-t by a dude from full-race about dyno comparisons between one of their bottom mount and top mount manifolds, and the top mount kills the bottom mount across the entire rev range..both of the manifolds are over $1k..

Also finally got a timing cover..

I had to modify Every single thing in the engine bay. I even had to change my fpr to match the fuel return hose.
I might change the throttle cable too..

To connect the coolant hoses, I had to cut up a set of integra hoses to get th right fit with my civic radiator, and mix and match integra and accord heater hoses.
I'll post pics soon. My goal is to have one of the cleanest engine bays in a 3g, too. It'll be hard to imagine this bay once being involved in a toasty situation that bubbled the shit out of my hood..(coolant is flammable. Believe that. Don't ever add coolant without water (that's all I had) if you have a leak that could get onto your exhaust, Especially with a turbo..

[Legend_master]

a couple updates...I adapted an integra clutch cable to eliminate the ridiculous routing necessitated by the length of the stock cable..the integra cable itself (the inside) was too long (out of adjustment) so I had to cut a slot in a long nut, about an inch long, and fit it over the cable, hammering it flat to act as a spacer to take up the extra slack. I also used 2 of the same integra brackets on the valve cover, since the integra bay locates the cable a little differently. (stock integra 2 different brackets)
I had the wrong upper bracket for my p/s pump, they create a different offset for the different pulley configuration depending on the years (90-93/94-01)..so I got the right one, p/s setup is done, looks clean..had to modify the hoses though.
Still lagging on getting the steering knuckles so I can put my axles in..went the junkyard for the knuckes, ended up coming home with a whole b18..lol..but no knuckes..
So once I get this stupid thing refereed, in go my 740cc injectors and my holset turbo, most likely on a top mount manifold. There is thread on h-t by a dude from full-race about dyno comparisons between one of their bottom mount and top mount manifolds, and the top mount kills the bottom mount across the entire rev range..both of the manifolds are over $1k..
Also finally got a timing cover..
I had to modify Every single thing in the engine bay. I even had to change my fpr to match the fuel return hose.
I might change the throttle cable too..
To connect the coolant hoses, I had to cut up a set of integra hoses to get th right fit with my civic radiator, and mix and match integra and accord heater hoses.
I'll post pics soon. My goal is to have one of the cleanest engine bays in a 3g, too. It'll be hard to imagine this bay once being involved in a toasty situation that bubbled the shit out of my hood..(coolant is flammable. Believe that. Don't ever add coolant without water (that's all I had) if you have a leak that could get onto your exhaust, Especially with a turbo..

That all sounds like you are doing a real good job with your progress and damn your gas milage is going to suck with those injectors. A couple of questions I have are, why do you need a new knuckle is it for swap purposes or is there a problem with your old one. For the hoses I just used the factory Fuel return hose on the FPR and clamped it down tight, I used and integra lower radiator hose and clamped it down tight (yours should have worked with the civic one, but I don't know how you mounted the radiator or anything), and for the heater hose I used all the factory hoses without any problems. Good luck and keep us up-to-date with the project.

[Accordtheory]

I don't forsee any real mpg decrease with those injectors. If what I've been reading is true, I'll be cruising a little lean, around 15-15.:1 af with a little more timing. (leaner = higher dynamic compression, higher manifold press with the same fuel.. Compression has a tremendous effect on efficiency, this is sort of way of cheating) The only time where the 740s could be a little weak would be at idle, but my friend has the same ones on his wrx, and it idles fine. I think with my a/f and timing alterations, my mpg will be better than stock.
Except when I boost..
The reason why I had to cut up the hoses is the location of my civic radiator. It is a little over to the driver's side from where it would normally be, and I had to accomodate the coolant switch in the lower hose.

The reason I am swapping the steering knuckles is the 8-87 brakes are garbage. Try stopping from 130 mph overheating and warping the shit out of your rotors. I figure since I have to replace my rotors and a lower ball joint, I might as well do the whole thing now. I already have the 88/89 disks and calipers.

[Legend_master]

Ok we have a mission for everybody that ever goes to autozone. The length on the PRI axles are Drivers side 24 7/8" Passenger side 23 3/4". Lets all check every autozone you can think of to find something that is smilar to this axle length. Thanks to Hash_man for hookin us up with these numebrs.

[SteveDX89]

Ok we have a mission for everybody that ever goes to autozone. The length on the PRI axles are Drivers side 24 7/8" Passenger side 23 3/4". Lets all check every autozone you can think of to find something that is smilar to this axle length. Thanks to Hash_man for hookin us up with these numebrs.

Problem is with everyone making their own mounts. One person could have their engine shifted over a 1/4" or something so the axles for one person won't work for them.

[A20A1]

Purdy rear mount you got there accordtheory.
Very impressive. :)

[Accordtheory]

are those lengths with the axles compressed all the way?

The autozone in my town is always busy as f, I doubt they'd want to have customers lined up for like half an hour while they try to find me axles..maybe I'll try carquest or napa..

but damn, now I don't even have cores, I just have new integra axles, there's no way I'm going to trade them in..

So what are we looking at anyway? d series civic, older prelude, but no integra, or f22/h22 prelude/accord..? Not a lot of options here, the civic/crx/del sol/integra 90-93/94-01 basically the same shit, right? At least with a b series..I assume people use the integra axles with a swap into any of those chassis, so with that chassis, the stock d series axles are the only ones to look at..?
What do the the crv front axles look like?

Why don't the integra axles work anyway? Does the integra have a different track width/distance between the spindles than the 3g?

[A20A1]

Problem is with everyone making their own mounts. One person could have their engine shifted over a 1/4" or something so the axles for one person won't work for them.

Thats what gets me... it's like why not fit the axles first then the engine... or at least an axle on one side... then you can work it out from there with mounting positions and the other axle

[Accordtheory]

Purdy rear mount you got there accordtheory.
Very impressive. :)

Thanks..

[Accordtheory]

Thats what gets me... it's like why not fit the axles first then the engine... or at least an axle on one side... then you can work it out from there with mounting positions and the other axle

I think the engine kind of just ends up where it ends up. I mean, you start out with the driver's side mount to set the height, side to side and tilt angle, and then you basically just try to keep it straight and level while you do the other mounts. You won't have that much adjustability with side to side or front to back because the driver's side mount hits the block bracket if you try to go too far to the driver's side, and the tranny hits the chassis if you try to go the other way. We're talking about like 1/4" here. Same with front to back, I have about 1/8" of an inch between part of the back of my tranny and the rear crossmember, and you can't really adjust that unless you want to have your drivetrain not be parallel in the engine bay, since the driver's side mount has already located that side of the engine. I still wish I had the pri axles though, then I would have made damn sure the engine/tranny was located properly for them.

[Legend_master]

are those lengths with the axles compressed all the way?
The autozone in my town is always busy as f, I doubt they'd want to have customers lined up for like half an hour while they try to find me axles..maybe I'll try carquest or napa..
but damn, now I don't even have cores, I just have new integra axles, there's no way I'm going to trade them in..
So what are we looking at anyway? d series civic, older prelude, but no integra, or f22/h22 prelude/accord..? Not a lot of options here, the civic/crx/del sol/integra 90-93/94-01 basically the same shit, right? At least with a b series..I assume people use the integra axles with a swap into any of those chassis, so with that chassis, the stock d series axles are the only ones to look at..?
What do the the crv front axles look like?
Why don't the integra axles work anyway? Does the integra have a different track width/distance between the spindles than the 3g?

Well I already checked all the d-series and the only one that migh work on the passenger side is the 86-89 integra. All the other d-series are the exact same size as the 90-93 integra (i dident check the drivers side, because I think they are one solid axle like the 3g accord ones). The next cars we need to start checking is all the accord and prelude. I checked one from a 92 accord and the length was good, but the spindle looked to thick. When people swap the motors into civic they use the integra axles, because they are a little beefer. I dident even think about the CRV, I bet those axles are similar to what we need considering the width of the chassie and the placement of the motor. I will have to go check it out and see whats going on. You should try your axles in your car, before you go buying anything else, because you motor looks like it sits in the car a little different then mine.

[Accordtheory]

I checked one from a 92 accord and the length was good, but the spindle looked to thick.

You should try your axles in your car, before you go buying anything else, because you motor looks like it sits in the car a little different then mine.

That's what I thought too, that the f22/h22 axles had bigger ends..

Yeah, definitely will try my axles out before I buy anything else..I still have to get the damn knuckles and get my brakes together though..man, I have been Lagging on this car!

[Accordtheory]

stupid double post..

[Legend_master]

That's what I thought too, that the f22/h22 axles had bigger ends..
Yeah, definitely will try my axles out before I buy anything else..I still have to get the damn knuckles and get my brakes together though..man, I have been Lagging on this car!


damnit man step into gear and get this shit done J/P :) . I know how it is, it took me a year and a half to get it done and I had the PRI kit.

[SQ is the SQUAD]

i work at advance auto parts so i can check axle lenghts one day, but the problem lies in the hub, if it fits or not. ill check all the teg, vigor, legend, civic, accord axils to see whats what

[Legend_master]

i work at advance auto parts so i can check axle lenghts one day, but the problem lies in the hub, if it fits or not. ill check all the teg, vigor, legend, civic, accord axils to see whats what


that would be awsome. Even if you find one that is the right length but the hub dosent fit. write it down anyway there would not be to much trouble switching out the spline on the end.

[Accordtheory]

are those lengths with the axles compressed all the way?

sq, that would be Pimp shit if you could figure this axle bs out.

[Accordtheory]

well, I Finally got my steering knuckles today, so hopefully I'll be test fitting some axles tomorrow..provided it isn't raining..

[Legend_master]

well, I Finally got my steering knuckles today, so hopefully I'll be test fitting some axles tomorrow..provided it isn't raining..


good stuff, can't wait to see what happens G/L :eek5: .

[Accordtheory]

well, all I got done was installing the knuckles/brakes and test fitting the driver's side teg axle, which was a couple inches too short..

[Legend_master]

well, all I got done was installing the knuckles/brakes and test fitting the driver's side teg axle, which was a couple inches too short..


Well that means the Passenger side is going to be to long :chainsaw: . I am going to find a factory application for this swap.

[Accordtheory]

well, I'm about to go check out the passenger side axle, but I was thinking for the driver's side, take the slightly longer passenger side 3g axle and put the integra intermediate shaft end on it, provided the cv tripod thing is the same size..
Only problem is, like a dumbass, I sold my old accord axles..

[Accordtheory]

..and yes, the integra passenger side axle is too long..I can only push it in about 1/4" at the spindle end with the axle nut off before it bottoms out..

[Legend_master]

..and yes, the integra passenger side axle is too long..I can only push it in about 1/4" at the spindle end with the axle nut off before it bottoms out..


Damn I just finished swapping a motor into my brothers 3g :chainsaw: :rant:, my B-swap went ten times fast then that did. I did find something kinda odd though. My engine code just said NT not a20 WTF is that about . Ok back on subject we might have to look at brands other then honda for our axles. I am sure there has to be an axles that will work. I noticed Haspot makes a b-swap kit for a 1g teg and it comes with custom axles. I wonder if that would help us?

[Accordtheory]

the pri axles are D 24 7/8" and P 23 3/4"? Well, I just measured the stock 90-93 teg axles, and they came out at 23 1/2. Yet the passenger side is too long, wtf. In the book, the teg length is listed as 24".

I just spent about 2 hours trying to find suitable axles at kragen and carquest. No success. I think the closest might be the old civic 4wd axles, as weird as that might be. I was unable to find a book that listed length alongside the application, I had to keep going back between length, splines, etc and the applications to try to find the part #s..what a fucking pain. I need a drink.

[Accordtheory]

I suppose one of us could ask hasport..

[Oldblueaccord]

the pri axles are D 24 7/8" and P 23 3/4"? Well, I just measured the stock 90-93 teg axles, and they came out at 23 1/2. Yet the passenger side is too long, wtf. In the book, the teg length is listed as 24".
I just spent about 2 hours trying to find suitable axles at kragen and carquest. No success. I think the closest might be the old civic 4wd axles, as weird as that might be. I was unable to find a book that listed length alongside the application, I had to keep going back between length, splines, etc and the applications to try to find the part #s..what a fucking pain. I need a drink.


http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=NCV&PartNumber=8001&Description=Constant+Velocity+(CV)+Driveshaft+-+Left+Front+-+Remfd

they list the lengths.

EDIT: lol it does but my link it doesnt go figure. www.napaonline.com


wp

[Bac89LXI]

I have an 89LXI hatchback and i also have a 95 integra GSR that recently was involved in an fender bender that was considered totalled but the front was un harmed. I need some helpfull info or some suggestions others my have concerning my B18C1 motor swap
THANK, Barry

[B16KILLA]

I have an 89LXI hatchback and i also have a 95 integra GSR that recently was involved in an fender bender that was considered totalled but the front was un harmed. I need some helpfull info or some suggestions others my have concerning my B18C1 motor swap
THANK, Barry

Do you have pics , i'd love to see that even though it's bashed a lil...My suggestion is that if it was only a fender bender like you say it was ,why not fix it.?

[Accordtheory]

This is a little off the subject at hand, but I just have to say that my harness from rywire is one of the worst products I have ever paid for, and that says a lot. I've had to basically tear the Entire thing apart and put it back together, after paying over $300 for this shit. In addition to the ghetto drilling out of my old injector clips to fit, (instead of replacing them) and the wires from the extension harness coming out by the passenger headlight when they're supposed to go under the driver's seat, (!) the other wires are all the wrong lengths and come out at the wrong places too. My tps and map connectors don't even reach, for fuck's sake, and neither do the reverse light connectors and TW connector. The harness just looks like shit overall. The connectors that do reach either have way to much slack, or just barely reach. It's obvious that not only did these guys not have a 3g in front of them, they also didn't even take the time to fit the harness to a normal b series engine, or even try to copy the stock b series harness. There is also a wire that goes to nothing, it just ends in the branch that goes to the injectors/TA. I don't know what is up with that. And nowhere on the harness was any provision for securing itself to anything, so it would just flop around in my engine bay like a limp dildo.
I told ryan from rywire (yeah, real clever name too, huh) about some of my problems, and he started weaseling out of any responsibility, but I didn't push him on it at all, I just said, it's up to you, but a partial refund would be just. I've already done like 37 solder joints over again..

..."37?!" -Clerks

[Accordtheory]

I have an 89LXI hatchback and i also have a 95 integra GSR that recently was involved in an fender bender that was considered totalled but the front was un harmed. I need some helpfull info or some suggestions others my have concerning my B18C1 motor swap
THANK, Barry

here's a helpful suggestion, fix the integra or buy another one with the insurance money, fuck the 3g, it's not worth it to do the swap..

The only reason I'm doing this shit is I like to torture myself.

[Justin86]

The only reason I'm doing this shit is I like to torture myself.

I can totaly realted to that. After a few yrs of nothing but custom work to get your car up to spec is very frustrating. Even though I love my car, if it ever got totaled I would probably be glad.

[Accordtheory]

yeah, I just spent almost the whole day working on the wiring. Maybe I'll post a couple pics of the finished harness and subharness tomorrow..

[Bac89LXI]

so where do i get the motor mounts for the swap?

[ghettogeddy]

well, all I got done was installing the knuckles/brakes and test fitting the driver's side teg axle, which was a couple inches too short..
well scence the driverside was to short and the passenger side was to long is there no way of switching the two around a seeing if the fit like that

[SteveDX89]

so where do i get the motor mounts for the swap?

No where. You make them.

[Accordtheory]

well scence the driverside was to short and the passenger side was to long is there no way of switching the two around a seeing if the fit like that
yeah, I wish..both are 23.5"..

so far my closest guess is an 89 teg p/s for the p/s, and an 87 prelude pass side with the integra end for the driver's side..23.1 and 24.6"

[Legend_master]

well scence the driverside was to short and the passenger side was to long is there no way of switching the two around a seeing if the fit like that


nope both axles are almost identical in lenght, the passenger side is just a little bit shorter, but not enough.

[masterkillalw]

Wow, I am glad my swap did not turn out to be this painful. I feel so bad for you guys and your 3rd gen problems. I used integra axles and my engine sits low enough that I didn't have to cut my hood up. I guess I just got lucky on my swap. I say good luck to all of you with your swaps and if you need specific help with something you can always e-mail me.

[Accordtheory]

..hey, do you think the prelude axle will fit into the integra hub? (on the end that fits into the tranny)?

[Accordtheory]

...damn your prelude..lucky bastard:)

[Accordtheory]

well, I just test fitted a pass side axle from an 89 integra on my pass side, it seemed legit with about an inch of inward play, so I promptly returned it to kragen and bought one off ebay..saving myself about $80, since I don't have any cores..

[Legend_master]

well, I just test fitted a pass side axle from an 89 integra on my pass side, it seemed legit with about an inch of inward play, so I promptly returned it to kragen and bought one off ebay..saving myself about $80, since I don't have any cores..


That is damn good to know. Thanks for tring it, but did you get the pass side 86-89 or the drivers side?

[Accordtheory]

passenger side, they're both listed as the same length, 23.1", but like the newer integra, I think the driver's side has splines the whole way down the end that goes into the intermediate shaft, so it wouldn't be right for the tranny connection..

I'm still trying to figure out wtf to do with the driver's side. I would have bought an 87 prelude pass side, but they don't have any on ebay right now..and I still can't find my old integra end that fits into the intermediate shaft, I must have thrown it away..ugh..

[carotman]

Yeah the left side axle has splines all the way through. Sucks :(

[DeViOuS]

i still got the 90 teg, i am going to be junking it soon. its a 4dr rs if anyone needs any parts. i took basically everythnig swap related.

i was also considering cutting the mount brackets out of that frame from my accord.

legend, did you have to cut your front cross member at all to get your header to fit, i know steve from CT with the ls/vtec had to knotch his


Hey I dont know if you have the Teg anymore, but if you do, Im wondering if you have the lights still. Are they 3 peices? If so, I wanna get the bracket for the fog light.

[masterkillalw]

..hey, do you think the prelude axle will fit into the integra hub? (on the end that fits into the tranny)?


No I had to get 3rd gen Accord hubs to fit the Integra axles in. My problem now is my shift linkage. Its not long enough. The Stablizer bar is too short on my lude and so I cannot shift right. I will keep you guys updated.

[Legend_master]

No I had to get 3rd gen Accord hubs to fit the Integra axles in. My problem now is my shift linkage. Its not long enough. The Stablizer bar is too short on my lude and so I cannot shift right. I will keep you guys updated.


are the accord and prelude shift linkage the same size, if not then you might try the accord one to see if it works.

[Accordtheory]

Well, I finally started the car today. It runs like shit, hopefully due to not having an exhaust or intake, not because of all my mismatched sensors.. Here is a pic of the mostly finished harness. Rywire can officially take my $300 and shove it. I made the harness, not them. After undoing all their half assed work and making the harness actually function and look somewhat acceptable, I probably have about 15 hours in this thing. In addition to my previously aired complaints, the harness had no TA connection or coolant temp. Wrong wires going to both. Legend master, look at where my foot is, that is the plug that the extension harness connects to, before going through the firewall.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/814000-814999/814838_19_full.jpg
Some things to observe: The "T" that contains the pcs, iac, tps, and map connections, and the length of all the wires in general..you want an example of the job rywire did, look at the vtec connections, they're the only wires they did that I haven't altered yet. Which ones are the vtec connections? I bet you can guess..The only wires that are Way too long, coming out by the o2/reverse switch/TW connections.

[Legend_master]

Well, I finally started the car today. It runs like shit, hopefully due to not having an exhaust or intake, not because of all my mismatched sensors.. Here is a pic of the mostly finished harness. Rywire can officially take my $300 and shove it. I made the harness, not them. After undoing all their half assed work and making the harness actually function and look somewhat acceptable, I probably have about 15 hours in this thing. In addition to my previously aired complaints, the harness had no TA connection or coolant temp. Wrong wires going to both. Legend master, look at where my foot is, that is the plug that the extension harness connects to, before going through the firewall.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/814000-814999/814838_19_full.jpg

Did you put that extention harness on there or did rywire. Mine look completely different then yours.

EDit: Good job on getting it going, mine ran liek shit when I first started it also. You just have to get the kinks worked out.

[masterkillalw]

wow.why not just use the engine harness? Thats what that looks like to me mainly. Execpt some other things. But. I am using all the harnesses and fuse boxes from the Integra. Just keeping my lights and what not on my stock fuse box and using the others for the engine and gauges.

[masterkillalw]

are the accord and prelude shift linkage the same size, if not then you might try the accord one to see if it works.


Already working on fixing that problem. Just gonna extend the stablizer bar and the shift linkage. Just got to get everything welded.

[Accordtheory]

No I had to get 3rd gen Accord hubs to fit the Integra axles in. My problem now is my shift linkage. Its not long enough. The Stablizer bar is too short on my lude and so I cannot shift right. I will keep you guys updated.

I don't think you understood my question, I guess I wasn't clear enough..what I meant was do you think I can put the end of the integra axle onto the prelude axle so I can fit the prelude axle into the teg intermediate shaft? The spline counts are the same, so I hope I can..I also hope the prelude axle is long enough..

As far as your shift linkage, time to bring out the welder..you know I had to..

[Accordtheory]

Did you put that extention harness on there or did rywire. Mine look completely different then yours.


I did! I made the entire harness! Rywire can juggle deez

[Legend_master]

I did! I made the entire harness! Rywire can juggle deez


LOL, good job dude. I am working with rywire right now to create an OBD-1 convertion for the a20. They dident do me wrong so I got nothing against them. I wish I had all the stuff to do a custom motor swap, I would drop a c27 into the 3g.

[masterkillalw]

I don't think you understood my question, I guess I wasn't clear enough..what I meant was do you think I can put the end of the integra axle onto the prelude axle so I can fit the prelude axle into the teg intermediate shaft? The spline counts are the same, so I hope I can..I also hope the prelude axle is long enough..
As far as your shift linkage, time to bring out the welder..you know I had to..


If I remember correctly, the prelude axles are smaller in diameter. Which means the integra axles and prelude axles aren't compatiable.

[Accordtheory]

not according to napaonline..27/26 splines, with the same thread size as the 3g/integra..

damn, I was hoping someone would solve this for me, but it looks like I'll be spending some time at a junkyard, trying to mix and match axle components..

edit: I might have actually found someone who can assemble an axle for me using all factory parts, with no core charge..

..as lil jon would say, Yeaayuhh!!

we'll see though..

[masterkillalw]

I am not talking about splines. I am talking about diameter. The integra is much bigger.

[SQ is the SQUAD]

Legend, how are those conversion kits comming along?

[Legend_master]

Legend, how are those conversion kits comming along?


We have it all planned out. He is making a sub harness for the ecu with a piggy-back wire that runs into the engine bay and runs to the distributor. I plan on removing my vacuume box and EGR also. I dont want to whore up this thread so I will make a new thread when I get the harness made.

[Accordtheory]

I am not talking about splines. I am talking about diameter. The integra is much bigger.
The axle you compared had 27/26 splines? I found 2 different spline counts for prelude axles, 27/26 and 25/24.. I would hope that if the ends of the axle are a certain size (a certain spline count), the rest of the axle will more or less match it..

[Legend_master]

The axle you compared had 27/26 splines? I found 2 different spline counts for prelude axles, 27/26 and 25/24.. I would hope that if the ends of the axle are a certain size (a certain spline count), the rest of the axle will more or less match it..


I switch out my passenger side axle with the 86-89 integra axle. It works liek a freakin charm. I think the Drivers side 90-93 integra axle will actually hold up to the stress, but it wouldent hurt to be about an inch or so longer. I will let you guys know when the drivers side axle wears out and how many miles it lasted. Thanks again Accordtheory for checking on that axle.

[Accordtheory]

I though you said your driver side axle pulled itself apart or out of the tranny or something..wtf
I wasn't even going to attempt to drive the car with that axle, it was so short the tranny end came apart as I was installing it..23.5" is just not long enough.

[Legend_master]

I though you said your driver side axle pulled itself apart or out of the tranny or something..wtf
I wasn't even going to attempt to drive the car with that axle, it was so short the tranny end came apart as I was installing it..23.5" is just not long enough.

I have a feeling that the axle was defective on the drivers side. The ring that snaps the axle into the halfshaft was not there (and I dident notice on the install day), so the axle must have pulled out and then flopped around a bit untill it snapped (i was going 70MPH down the highway). The new axle seems to be working alright, but will probaly wear out quick due to being a little short. I dident have to stretch mine as far as it sounds like you did. It was nowhere near coming apart. I jsut dosent have much play once installed. So nobody gets confused I am only talking about the drivers side 90-93 integra axle

[Accordtheory]

well, good luck with that new axle..

hey, what did you do to mount your ecu? Mine is just flopping around under my seat, banging against my j&s safeguard..I guess I'll have to fab something to hold everything in place..

Another thing: obd-1, 92-95, supposed to have that cold idle increase valve thing on the bottom of the TB? I have a 90 TB, it doesn't have that. I also have 2 other TBs, and they don't have it either..damn it. My engine is running like absolute shit, it won't even idle until it's warm, and even then it sounds like it's running on 3 cylinders. #1 hardly even makes a difference when I pull the injector clip or plug wire..and 150psi of compression when the others are 180, 180, 190..I think the valves are too tight..

[Legend_master]

well, good luck with that new axle..
hey, what did you do to mount your ecu? Mine is just flopping around under my seat, banging against my j&s safeguard..I guess I'll have to fab something to hold everything in place..
Another thing: obd-1, 92-95, supposed to have that cold idle increase valve thing on the bottom of the TB? I have a 90 TB, it doesn't have that. I also have 2 other TBs, and they don't have it either..damn it. My engine is running like absolute shit, it won't even idle until it's warm, and even then it sounds like it's running on 3 cylinders. #1 hardly even makes a difference when I pull the injector clip or plug wire..and 150psi of compression when the others are 180, 180, 190..I think the valves are too tight..


My Ecu is dangling also, because I want to be able to access it easily. Mine dosent seem to bang against anything though.As for the thermo vavle, it shouldent make a difference. I just bypassed mine, because it was defective. for the compression test. I wouldent think the valves would change the comp that much. Are you sure you dont have a HG leak or a bad piston ring?

[Accordtheory]

Well, they valves were tight, but the damn thing still won't idle or run worth shit overall..this is making me so pissed. I know I have different year sensors and ecu, but the sensors I checked, coolant and IAT, have the same part # on napaonline, so wtf. I also tried 2 different style map sensors, same thing. The engine will rev up initially but then stall until it's warm. Then it will idle roughly until something happens where it just acts like the ecu is trying to kill it, with the rpm dropping down to like 300. It doesn't die though, it just barely recovers in time and goes back up to around 750rpm, or whatever it's normal is. I tried adjusting the idle screw in the TB, and unplugging the pcs vacuum hose to give it more air to simulate the cold idle increase valve that it doesn't have, but that made it run even worse. When I open the throttle, it bogs and doesn't rev smoothly, and then if I hold it open above idle, it cuts out and drops off until I let it close, then it goes back into idling shitty. Normally that would tell me map or tps, but I've substituted both, by changine the entire TB. Ugh! No codes except for 20, the electrical load detector thing. I don't have any idea wtf that is. I want to try a 95 ls TB, since that's what my ecu is from.

I should note that I don't have the exhaust fully connected, just the manifold and downpipe. But still, I have never seen an engine run That bad because of just that.

[masterkillalw]

Sounds to me like your only running on 3 cylinders and need to fix that first. Then that way you can fix everything else. Do you have your o2 sensor hooked up? Your stalling sounds like an ICV. Located on the back of your IM, It would cause for your idle to be REAL low or stall when cold. Try swapping that out and see whats happens.

[Legend_master]

Well, they valves were tight, but the damn thing still won't idle or run worth shit overall..this is making me so pissed. I know I have different year sensors and ecu, but the sensors I checked, coolant and IAT, have the same part # on napaonline, so wtf. I also tried 2 different style map sensors, same thing. The engine will rev up initially but then stall until it's warm. Then it will idle roughly until something happens where it just acts like the ecu is trying to kill it, with the rpm dropping down to like 300. It doesn't die though, it just barely recovers in time and goes back up to around 750rpm, or whatever it's normal is. I tried adjusting the idle screw in the TB, and unplugging the pcs vacuum hose to give it more air to simulate the cold idle increase valve that it doesn't have, but that made it run even worse. When I open the throttle, it bogs and doesn't rev smoothly, and then if I hold it open above idle, it cuts out and drops off until I let it close, then it goes back into idling shitty. Normally that would tell me map or tps, but I've substituted both, by changine the entire TB. Ugh! No codes except for 20, the electrical load detector thing. I don't have any idea wtf that is. I want to try a 95 ls TB, since that's what my ecu is from.
I should note that I don't have the exhaust fully connected, just the manifold and downpipe. But still, I have never seen an engine run That bad because of just that.


Ok try what masterkillaw said, check for spark and fuel on all cylinders. As for my problem I had was the wrong gasket on the TB and that made the car idle very roughly, put your hand on the TB while the car is ideling and see if the car idles down or even suckes in your hand (if you dont have a vaccume leak the the TB will suck the hell out of your hand). As for the ELD it is located in the fuse box of the civics and integras. I just used chrome to turn off the ELD in the fuse box. Try cleaning out the IACV with some carb cleaner and a toothbrush. If all this dosent help we need to start looking at the TB

[Accordtheory]

I know the idle air control thing is ok because if it wasn't it wouldn't rev up initially. Several of my exhaust valves were tight, bleeding the cylinder press into the exhaust. I just kept putting off doing the lash adjustment because I couldn't find my feeler guages, until I forgot I hadn't done it at all..but I could tell from the way it sounded in the exhaust what it was.
I know it is an electronic problem now. I just don't know wtf it is..what would cause it to rev up like normal when started but then stall right away after the rpm comes back down? I would think it would be lack of the cold idle thing..I guess I'm about to try to get a 95 ls TB..
..I better measure my coolant temp sensor with a meter too..

This is really annoying, because I'm going to replace all of this shit anyway with a vtec head, etc, etc. I'm wasting effort getting 2 combinations running..stupid california smog laws. I want a 70mm TB to go with my bbk IM, and it's not going to have any coolant lines going through it.. I should be able to make it run ok without it in the programming though..

[Accordtheory]

I put my new axle in today, accord shaft with integra end..unfortunately, I still can't drive the car, it refuses to run well enough. I tried changing the TA, TW, still no effect. Also double checked most of the wiring too. officially clueless.

[Legend_master]

I put my new axle in today, accord shaft with integra end..unfortunately, I still can't drive the car, it refuses to run well enough. I tried changing the TA, TW, still no effect. Also double checked most of the wiring too. officially clueless.


I bypassed the thermo valve, but I still had to have it installed to make it work right. There was a small plastic piece inside that had to be tightend down to make the car run right. Have you check for vaccume leaks? Are all you spark plug wire hooked up right? have you checked for a leaking injector?

[Accordtheory]

I'm bet it's something stupid like the tps and map connections backwards on the obd0 jumper..

damn rain..I wanted to get something done on this today..

[Accordtheory]

well, it was the wrong injectors, I don't know what the hell they are. I thought all hondas were 240cc, except fot the prelude and s2000..they're acting like they're a lot bigger than that. My friend who gave them to me said they were integra injectors..
..the idle is still going up and down until it's warm though, but f it..

[Legend_master]

well, it was the wrong injectors, I don't know what the hell they are. I thought all hondas were 240cc, except fot the prelude and s2000..they're acting like they're a lot bigger than that. My friend who gave them to me said they were integra injectors..
..the idle is still going up and down until it's warm though, but f it..


Congrats dude, it took me about a week or two to get mine running well.

[Legend_master]

DO NOT RUN A 90-93 integra drivers side axle. I just ripped another one in half (thanks to autozone for there lifetiem warenty :cheers: ). I am going to dallas tommarow to have a custom axle made. If you would like one made I will get it done slap mine in, make sure it works, then have them made. All I will need is a new 90-93 integra axle, shipping, and $59.95. The guy at Axle king is going to make them for me.

[Accordtheory]

In told you not to! I already have a custom axle in place. Hopefully it's legit. I wanted the prelude shaft with the accord and integra ends, but just ended up with an integra end on the accord axle. Looks like it's ok though, but I still haven't driven the car, no exhaust..

+ I want the damn gsr head and type r cams, I might just buy that shit on ebay and then start driving it so the ls slowness won't be so annoying..

[Legend_master]

In told you not to! I already have a custom axle in place. Hopefully it's legit. I wanted the prelude shaft with the accord and integra ends, but just ended up with an integra end on the accord axle. Looks like it's ok though, but I still haven't driven the car, no exhaust..
+ I want the damn gsr head and type r cams, I might just buy that shit on ebay and then start driving it so the ls slowness won't be so annoying..


You could just turbo the LS for the time being :dunno: . I got my new custom axle in there, but it is to long and needs to be reworked. They used integra inner and outer pieces with a 98-00 accord shaft.

[Accordtheory]

how much did you pay for yours? I paid $105 shipped, no core charge either

[Legend_master]

how much did you pay for yours? I paid $105 shipped, no core charge either


$110.00 I drove to dallas with the old axle and they used the pieces off of that. It would have been $59.95, but the accord axle that he used was more expensive then most axles.

[SteveDX89]

Legend, the 86-89 Integra pass. side axle is what we need? I took my motor out yesterday and I think the guy that sold me all my PRI stuff gave me the wrong axles. I already replaced the driver side with a true PRI axle last year because it was too long. I think my pass. axle was too short. The axle was coming out of the boot on the tranny end. Grease all over the tranny case. I need a new one but need to know if the 86-89 teg axle is the answer.

[Legend_master]

Legend, the 86-89 Integra pass. side axle is what we need? I took my motor out yesterday and I think the guy that sold me all my PRI stuff gave me the wrong axles. I already replaced the driver side with a true PRI axle last year because it was too long. I think my pass. axle was too short. The axle was coming out of the boot on the tranny end. Grease all over the tranny case. I need a new one but need to know if the 86-89 teg axle is the answer.


Yep the 86-89 integra passenger side axles fits like a glove. That is weired that the problem you had was was completely different then mine. MY drivers side was to short and my pass was to long using the 90-93 integra axles. If you ever have to have the drivers side replaced then you will need to go custom.

[SteveDX89]

Yep the 86-89 integra passenger side axles fits like a glove. That is weired that the problem you had was was completely different then mine. MY drivers side was to short and my pass was to long using the 90-93 integra axles. If you ever have to have the drivers side replaced then you will need to go custom.

I bought my whole swap kit from another member as well and he gave me some axles that he said were PRI axles. I didn't give another thought to it until I started driving the thing. The whole car shook like crazy and I was like WTF? I ordered a new driver side from PRI and they're instructions talked about end play. Well, my axle had no end play. It was jammed in there real good. But anyway, whatever axles I ended up with were def. not PRI. Seems the tranny should have been shifted closer to the pass. side with the axles I had. I've been running the PRI driver side for the past year or 2 and that thing works like a charm.

[Accordtheory]

yeah, 89 teg pass axle for the passenger side is how we do it..and for the driver's side, the stock pass side accord axle + the integra end or the 84-87 lude axle with the accord and integra ends..

you and legend master, what do you guys think about having only 3 mounts as far as annoying vibration in the dash? I can watch my back mount flex back and forth, flexing the crossmember and transmitting annoying vibration into my dash..I am going to get a front mount and attach it to a tubular front crossmember that I'll fabricate to accomodate a large downpipe and turbo setup..

p.s. I thought my action 2ms clutch and act 12lb flywheel was going to be hard to drive..not even. I can let the car roll back down my driveway and catch it with the clutch without stalling, bucking, etc, too bad..that's cool for a clutch that will hold 500+whp, I've driven n/a combinations that I would consider undriveable, that wouldn't hold shit compared to what I have..

[Legend_master]

yeah, 89 teg pass axle for the passenger side is how we do it..and for the driver's side, the stock pass side accord axle + the integra end or the 84-87 lude axle with the accord and integra ends..
you and legend master, what do you guys think about having only 3 mounts as far as annoying vibration in the dash? I can watch my back mount flex back and forth, flexing the crossmember and transmitting annoying vibration into my dash..I am going to get a front mount and attach it to a tubular front crossmember that I'll fabricate to accomodate a large downpipe and turbo setup..
p.s. I thought my action 2ms clutch and act 12lb flywheel was going to be hard to drive..not even. I can let the car roll back down my driveway and catch it with the clutch without stalling, bucking, etc, too bad..that's cool for a clutch that will hold 500+whp, I've driven n/a combinations that I would consider undriveable, that wouldn't hold shit compared to what I have..


I am in the work of a front mount right now. I had to fab up a bracket for the block, but I am using the stock accord mount. If that dosent work I am going to try an H22 front mount.

[Accordtheory]

I'm just going to get the front mount from innovativemounts.com for the 90-93 b series and make my own bracket at the crossmember. I haven't decided on what hardness I'm going to use yet though. I have the 75a hardness on my 3 mounts now.

[SteveDX89]

I get vibration around 1200-1800 rpm. Other than that, it's smooth as stock. I've revved my engine at the TB and that sucker doesn't move around at all. At least from what I can see, there's probably some inperceptible movement. Try welding your rear mount to the crossmember. Maybe that will remove some of the vibration.

[Accordtheory]

I get vibration around 1200-1800 rpm. Other than that, it's smooth as stock. I've revved my engine at the TB and that sucker doesn't move around at all. At least from what I can see, there's probably some inperceptible movement. Try welding your rear mount to the crossmember. Maybe that will remove some of the vibration.

all my mounts are welded. I can watch the rear crossmember itself flex..the stupid bushings are so hard they put th flex and vibration right into the metal structure. Sort of like getting brake pads that last forever but chew up the disks..

hey, what did you do about your vss? I keep getting the damn code for that.
how about you too, legend master?

[Legend_master]

all my mounts are welded. I can watch the rear crossmember itself flex..the stupid bushings are so hard they put th flex and vibration right into the metal structure. Sort of like getting brake pads that last forever but chew up the disks..
hey, what did you do about your vss? I keep getting the damn code for that.
how about you too, legend master?


I used chrome to disable the VSS and ELD codes in the system. I am about to dissable the O2 sensor, because I keep getting a code 43.

[Accordtheory]

so you have the moates 'ostrich' thing? I don't know what to do about management yet, but I want my turbo..damn it
stupid neptune rtp isn't out yet. I'm not buying hondata, and the aem is too much..

steve, did you have to do anything about your vss?
My shit doesn't turn the cel on every time, just most of the time.

[Legend_master]

so you have the moates 'ostrich' thing? I don't know what to do about management yet, but I want my turbo..damn it
stupid neptune rtp isn't out yet. I'm not buying hondata, and the aem is too much..
steve, did you have to do anything about your vss?
My shit doesn't turn the cel on every time, just most of the time.


Just tune it with uberdata and run it rich with low boost untill you can afford better managment. Either way your going to have to dish out a load of cash for something to properly tune a turbo car. All those companies charge way to much for what they offer.

[Accordtheory]

well I was thinking of cromepro + the ostrich, but I don't know how the f you go about buying cromepro. I downloaded a couple 'plugins' for it that are supposed to be part of the 'pro' package, but I don't know, I'd rather just pay the $150 and know I have the most current shit, like the best expanded boost resolution. The boost resolution in cromepro pisses on hondata like r kelly pissed on...nevermind..

I'm done buying something for the time being. I've wasted so many thousands of dollars doing that. Now I just want ot have nothing until I can have good shit. I think my holset turbo will put down 500whp though, not bad for $275 shipped..

[Legend_master]

well I was thinking of cromepro + the ostrich, but I don't know how the f you go about buying cromepro. I downloaded a couple 'plugins' for it that are supposed to be part of the 'pro' package, but I don't know, I'd rather just pay the $150 and know I have the most current shit, like the best expanded boost resolution. The boost resolution in cromepro pisses on hondata like r kelly pissed on...nevermind..
I'm done buying something for the time being. I've wasted so many thousands of dollars doing that. Now I just want ot have nothing until I can have good shit. I think my holset turbo will put down 500whp though, not bad for $275 shipped..


LOL @ the R-kelly comment. $150 is not bad for chromepro, hondata is 5 bills + any options you want to add. Sounds like your ride is going to be sick, can't wait to see.

[thegreatdane]

the latest beta version (1.1.11) of crome has some nice features! Esp. for PRO users. If you want to go PRO just click "register" on the pop up screen when starting crome.

[SteveDX89]

My VSS works just fine. I have no codes for it at all. I know the stock gauge cluster has a wire going to the ECU and I'm pretty sure that's all I'm using. Using the cable driven VSS, btw, not the electronic. I put the 86-89 Teg axle in today. Seems a bit short. We'll see how long it lasts. I guess I should start buying them somewhere that has a lifetime warranty so when the shaft gets ripped out of the CV joint, I can get a new one for free. BTW, I f*cking hate putting axles in and out. If I didn't have to do that, I probably wouldn't mind ripping my engine out.

[Accordtheory]

do you have obd1? This vss code is really starting to piss me off..not only does the light come on, but the idle kicks up to lke 1500 rpm.
I fucking hate california. I can't believe I'm still here. They require a smog to even get the Title to a car. I won't be here much longer though..

[SteveDX89]

No, I'm OBD 0

[thegreatdane]

do you have obd1? This vss code is really starting to piss me off..not only does the light come on, but the idle kicks up to lke 1500 rpm.
I fucking hate california. I can't believe I'm still here. They require a smog to even get the Title to a car. I won't be here much longer though..

guaynabo89 figured out how to convert our VSS signal to OBD-1.

[Accordtheory]

well, there is supposedly a thread about the vss adaptation around here somewhere..

edit: Ok, I found it..6k ohm resistor between the vss wire and 12v. Should be easy enough

[Accordtheory]

well, it was, but it doesn't work though. Another thing. My car has some kind of limiter, sometimes it just doesn't go after 80 or so mph. I try to downshift, it just cuts out until the speed drops. It doesn't do it all the time. vss related? Incredibly annoying.

[Legend_master]

well, it was, but it doesn't work though. Another thing. My car has some kind of limiter, sometimes it just doesn't go after 80 or so mph. I try to downshift, it just cuts out until the speed drops. It doesn't do it all the time. vss related? Incredibly annoying.


I never had that problem, I just got an cel light and that was it. Thats sounds like an ECU or distributor problem if you ask me :dunno: .

[sinisterfuzzy]

shit, the pri kit is a bargain compared to this effort..


what's the pri kit?

[Legend_master]

what's the pri kit?


Dude you said you searched in another thread, but I am guessing you didnt. The PRI = Place Racing Incorporated (the only company that made swap kits for our cars). They have long been out of Business and the mount kits are hard to find. I know you want to swap a b-series, but you will need some serious welding skills to get the job done. Good luck to you if you can pull it off.

[SteveDX89]

From what I've read about OBD 1 conversions, the VSS signal is not one that I've ever heard of having to convert. As far as I know, all we need is the conversion harness, dizzy, and 4 wire 02 sensor. You're positive it's the VSS code?

[Legend_master]

From what I've read about OBD 1 conversions, the VSS signal is not one that I've ever heard of having to convert. As far as I know, all we need is the conversion harness, dizzy, and 4 wire 02 sensor. You're positive it's the VSS code?


It is true I had the exact same error when I first converted my car.

[Accordtheory]

I'm strongly considering getting the 'tuner package' or whatever from xenocron right now and saying fuck the vss..it includes a socketed/chipped ecu, datalogging cable, moates eprom emulator, and wideband..then I just need to get the newest version of cromepro and I'll be set..

[thegreatdane]

That's basically what I'm using, only I bought the LM1 wideband and not the LC1. Bought it from xenocron too. Nice dude.

And yes, VSS does need to get converted in order to work. If you dont have a working vss there will be some features you wont be able to use.

[bobafett]

thats what im planning on getting too! :)

[Accordtheory]

What are the features that I won't be able to use without the vss? The only thing I can see myself wanting is gear based boost control..

[Legend_master]

What are the features that I won't be able to use without the vss? The only thing I can see myself wanting is gear based boost control..

I know that full throttle launch and full throttle shifting require VSS signals to work. There are probaly more options that require it to.

[SteveDX89]

What are the features that I won't be able to use without the vss? The only thing I can see myself wanting is gear based boost control..

VTEC

[SQ is the SQUAD]

dont you mean VTECH

[SteveDX89]

dont you mean VTECH

yeah, that's it :D

[Accordtheory]

vtec can be engaged regardless of vehicle speed with the programming..rpm dependent only..

but it doesn't matter anyway, I connected the output wire from the dash connector A2 to the wire from the speed sensor amplifier to the ecu, C1 at the back of the dash and no more code..

[SteveDX89]

vtec can be engaged regardless of vehicle speed with the programming..rpm dependent only..
but it doesn't matter anyway, I connected the output wire from the dash connector A2 to the wire from the speed sensor amplifier to the ecu, C1 at the back of the dash and no more code..

Hehe, as you can tell I don't read every post. I was refering to a stock ECU setup. Good to hear you got the issue resolved tho. :thumbup:

[88LXi68]

but it doesn't matter anyway, I connected the output wire from the dash connector A2 to the wire from the speed sensor amplifier to the ecu, C1 at the back of the dash and no more code..


Can you explain this better? I have had this European B20 cluster sitting in my garage that I want to use. EVERYTIME I put it in I get a VSS Code and I cant rev over 7k. As soon as I put my stock unit back in, the car is fine.

[Accordtheory]

did you read my short thread about this? basically there is a circuit that modifies the output from the speed pulser and sends that to the ecu, what I did is bypass that in favor of the speed pulser output to the cruise control. You then connect a resistor between that and 12v so the signal goes in 0-12v pulses to the ecu.

[88LXi68]

I'll check it out...thanks for the info

[Accordtheory]

here a lousy pic of my newest mods, completed this morning..ebc yellow pads in the front, (88/89 brakes/spindles although my car is an 87) and new bilstein shocks valved to 375/120 front and 300/100 rear with sprint drop springs all around. Annoyingly, the car sits higher in the front due to the lighter b series motor..
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/814000-814999/814838_20_full.jpg

[Legend_master]

here a lousy pic of my newest mods, completed this morning..ebc yellow pads in the front, (88/89 brakes/spindles although my car is an 87) and new bilstein shocks valved to 375/120 front and 300/100 rear with sprint drop springs all around. Annoyingly, the car sits higher in the front due to the lighter b series motor..
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/814000-814999/814838_20_full.jpg


Looking good dude, I plan on rebulding my suspention this summmer. I will be going all out and replacig everything. So how does the car ride with those bilsteins? I am thinking about getting those for the rear, but I dont want to waist the cash if it is not worth it.

[Accordtheory]

The front is too high, but the valving is fine as far as I can tell. Very controlled, dead feeling, no bounce. I can't say the same for the rear, unfortunately. It feels like it is contantly moving, and while I can't say exactly what it should feel like, it just doesn't feel stiff enough, in my opinion. I don't get it. Steve dx89 said he has the same combo and it is almost too stiff. However, the car does not rock when shifting, braking or cornering at all. Totally flat, like it should be. Ground controls are coming up..

[Accordtheory]

Well, in my never ending quest to avoid breaking the law every day in the state of california, which I currently do, in a variety of different victimless ways, I took my car to the smog ref to get it inspected, and of course, failed. HC and nox emissions too high, and my idle wouldn't settle down enough for them to be able to check the timing. It also failed the visual due to me not paying the CARB $100,000 and getting and Exemption Order sticker on my intake tubing. Yes, that is how much the companies have to pay to be able to legally sell a part in cali. That is why there is only 1 legal aftermarket turbo kit available for the integra, made by Greddy. So now I have to get the cheapest possible legal intake, probably a used AEM shortram, which will actually make my shit run worse than factory or than with my own cobbled together CAI. The ref also wrote my shit down as a '94, although my motor is a b18A1. The CARB site has the b18a1 listed as a 94-01 motor, anyone who knows shit about hondas knows it is a 90-93 motor, the 94+ ls is a b18b. I told his dumb ass to put it down as a 93, but he didn't listen.

[Legend_master]

Well, in my never ending quest to avoid breaking the law every day in the state of california, which I currently do, in a variety of different victimless ways, I took my car to the smog ref to get it inspected, and of course, failed. HC and nox emissions too high, and my idle wouldn't settle down enough for them to be able to check the timing. It also failed the visual due to me not paying the CARB $100,000 and getting and Exemption Order sticker on my intake tubing. Yes, that is how much the companies have to pay to be able to legally sell a part in cali. That is why there is only 1 legal aftermarket turbo kit available for the integra, made by Greddy. So now I have to get the cheapest possible legal intake, probably a used AEM shortram, which will actually make my shit run worse than factory or than with my own cobbled together CAI. The ref also wrote my shit down as a '94, although my motor is a b18A1. The CARB site has the b18a1 listed as a 94-01 motor, anyone who knows shit about hondas knows it is a 90-93 motor, the 94+ ls is a b18b. I told his dumb ass to put it down as a 93, but he didn't listen.


I feel your pain, I failed the exact same thing HC and NOX. I put some RPX in it and advanced the timing and passed the HC with flying colors, but still failed the NOX. I was told that the car is being run as a car that requires an EGR and that is why I am failing the NOX.

[Accordtheory]

The front is too high, but the valving is fine as far as I can tell. Very controlled, dead feeling, no bounce. I can't say the same for the rear, unfortunately. It feels like it is contantly moving, and while I can't say exactly what it should feel like, it just doesn't feel stiff enough, in my opinion. I don't get it. Steve dx89 said he has the same combo and it is almost too stiff. However, the car does not rock when shifting, braking or cornering at all. Totally flat, like it should be. Ground controls are coming up..

update: After driving the car out to south dakota and then several thousand more miles, I realize that the rear of the car has no bounce, that is just me flying around in my bouncy ass seat.

My hard motor mounts are slowly driving me insane, so I called innovativemounts.com, thinking that I would be able to buy softer bushings and swap them out. However, they don't sell just bushings, but they will swap them for you for $10 +shipping. Not a bad price, but a lot of good that does me when I drive the car to work every day and my back mount is welded in. Fucking ridiculous. The people who answer the phones there must have all previously worked at the dmv, been rent a cops, meter maids, or some parasitic cockblocking profession like that. "Oh no, we just don't do that. we don't sell you bushings separately. Why? We just don't. And you are mistaken, we don't sell on ebay either." Ignorant piece of shit stopped just short of calling me a liar! Go to ebay right now and see if there are any innovativemounts.com kits on there. And then they want to argue with me as if they have a Clue compared to me. Oh no, there's no difference between 3 hard mounts and 4 soft ones. Not having a front mount puts about 2x the force on the back one! Fucking Idiots!

[SteveDX89]

update: After driving the car out to south dakota and then several thousand more miles, I realize that the rear of the car has no bounce, that is just me flying around in my bouncy ass seat.
My hard motor mounts are slowly driving me insane

Hehe, I warned you about that rear end. It's pretty rough. I hear you on the hard motor mounts too. Rattles the whole car.

[Legend_master]

I have the same problem with the motor shaking, but I have come to like it. I have been working on making a front motor mount for my setup, but I want there to still be enough room for a turbo.

[shepherd79]

there was an article in one of the magazines (import, modified or someother one).
They were talking about how to pass emissions in california after engine swap. In the article they said to keep it as stock as possible including stock exhaust manifold, stock air piping and so on.
Also, in the article, the smog guy explained that JDM B16A can not pass emission test due to high compression or something like that. But USDM B16 will pass with flying colors. In both test they used sniffing device.

[Accordtheory]

Well, I'm in SD now, so f cali..
As far as the mounts, I'm going to solve it properly. I might even use factory integra front and back mounts + a torque arm, I don't know..

[Tomisimo]

Thanks, bobafett..
Having a b series is no big deal...If you have the kit. As far as I know, I am the only one to fabricate and complete the mounts myself. The mounts were a 2 day affair..and something I was a little intimidated by, but mostly because I am a perfectionist. After the leftover pri kits all get used up, hopefully my pics will help out someone who wants to do this on their own..
I want to upgrade to the 88-89 style front brakes, so I think I'll wait on the axles for that. (different spindles/steering knuckles, my car is an 87, no point in assembling it just to take it all apart again..)
In the meantime though, I'll post a pic of the shift linkage after I figure it out.


If you did documentet wark!? You can do a How to: B-Series Engine Mounts.
There you'r pics will come usifle.

[thegreatdane]

Lol I was just searching for this old thread when you bumped it. What's the status on the swap Accordtheory?

[Accordtheory]

just got softer mount bushings, trying to save up money for the gsr head, a gt35r, etc..but that's not happening. I have too many debts, and just had to replace the tranny in my silverado, $ ouch.. I like my new tranny though, the 'level 2' 4l60e from performabuiltautomatics.com. I can't drive the accord that much now, the khumos and ice/snow don't mix. It might as well have skis instead of tires, they're so bad.

[Accordtheory]

Well, today I did 2 out of the 4 mounts. I completely cut apart the passenger side mount, rewelded it, and replaced the bushings with softer ones. It sits about 2 inches lower now, closer to the motor/tranny's axis of torsional vibration. I also replaced the driver's side bushings too. I'll post pics as I go, I still have to replace the back mount bushings and build a front mount. I can't use the teg style front mount, it will hit my crossmember..so time for more welding, I guess..
I also want to see if I can use my old hard bushings for my radius arms, that would be really nice. Hopefully the wheelhop/excessive annoying vibration will be gone soon.

[SQ is the SQUAD]

lets see some pics

[Accordtheory]

Today, while sliding all around on that same piece of snow covered ice that is my front yard, I replaced the bushings in my rear mount. I only installed one bushing, though. (The mounts all take 2 bushings, 1 per side.) I wanted it to be nice and soft. I was afraid to hit 2nd hard or launch it after doing that, since I haven't built the front mount in yet, (really did Not want to tear that bushing..) but I did it a couple times anyway.. At first it seemed tight, but then it loosened up, (I don't understand that..) and it started making a thunk sort of like a factory 94+ teg. I don't know what's bottoming out, and I don't like it. Overall the car is much smoother though, and I think a lot of the wheelhop is gone. Time for the front mount now, I guess some time next week when I'm off work..

[rfiks]

wow, my brain is smokin' now! um goin' to sleep!

[Civic Accord Honda]

how did i miss this thread :confused:

[rfiks]

here a lousy pic of my newest mods, completed this morning..ebc yellow pads in the front, (88/89 brakes/spindles although my car is an 87) and new bilstein shocks valved to 375/120 front and 300/100 rear with sprint drop springs all around. Annoyingly, the car sits higher in the front due to the lighter b series motor..
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/814000-814999/814838_20_full.jpg

:huh:lighter b-series???

[Demon1024]

aluminum vs iron man

[Accordtheory]

Well, I suppose I could update this thread a little. I wrote before that something was bottoming out when I shifted hard, that was my back mount internally bottoming out, due to the bushing being torn apart. That's what I get for installing only a single 60a bushing in one side of it with no front mount. So I then screwed around with that some more, and built a front mount too, with another single 60a bushing.
However, my front mount broke, the piece the bushing fits into broke apart, amazingly enough. Never thought that would happen. Fatigue failure, I guess. So I just said fuck it and put an 80a bushing + another 60a in the back mount for now. However, I did something different with that setup. I enlarged the inside of the 80a bushing so it doesn't touch the metal tube that the cross bolt goes through until the motor torques. So the 60a bushing controls the motion until the motor torques enough for the 80a to contact the cross bolt aluminum tube thing, then they both control the motion. It's like 2 mounts in one. This results in a much more refined driving experience, since the 60a conducts a hell of a lot less vibration into the chassis, while the 80a is still strong enough to hold up to me chirping the tires hard into 3rd.
I really hope to have this car going with my holset hx40 this spring. I don't drive it anymore these days, the current suspension is too rough for these roads and the car needs a lot of body work, due to me fucking it up in various ways. The car is also way too loud, n/a with a 3" exhaust, even with 2 magnaflows, is still too loud. The turbo will make it a lot quieter. Guess we'll see how it all ends up in the spring time..

[rfiks]

well it sounds like swaping a b16a(gsr etc.) isn't easy:pc: and there isn't really a step by step w/pix on how to exept 4 ACCORDTHEORY! thanx dude! so im thinking of selling my 3rd g:eek: and buying rexi shell for $300 for my b16a.... (discouraged)

[gfrg88]

well it sounds like swaping a b16a(gsr etc.) isn't easy:pc: and there isn't really a step by step w/pix on how to exept 4 ACCORDTHEORY! thanx dude! so im thinking of selling my 3rd g:eek: and buying rexi shell for $300 for my b16a.... (discouraged)

3rd gens arent that great for swaps... with these accords, i'd only go the turbo route. a rex would be great with that b16 though :rockon:

[rushell]

i really need to talk to you my name is rushell i have a 1989 lxi and i have a 1993 teg i need to know what i need to do to swap the b18 from the teg into the lxi also i need to swap the gears because the gears in the teg grind and i want the taller gears of the lxi please contact me at 706 955 8860 home or 762 215 1646 cell thanks

[86silude]

hi there, i went to look at your pictures, but am having trouble loading/accessing them.
i have tried on both a computer and a phone :( any suggestions? Can anyone at all help with this, or send me some pictures?


Rather than jacking someone else's thread, I thought I'd start my own..Here is what I have done so far. Starting with the driver's side mount: This mount took me several hours to make. All of the mounts were made by butchering a set of crx swap mounts from innovativemounts.com. 75A hardness bushings for minimum movement in my soon to be high whp turbo application.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/814000-814999/814838_4_full.jpghttp://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/814000-814999/814838_5_full.jpg
Next we have the passenger side mount: Also done but not shown, strategic hammering of the engine bay adjacent to the tranny for clearance. And yes, I know that gloss black paint looks like shit!
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/814000-814999/814838_7_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/814000-814999/814838_6_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/814000-814999/814838_8_full.jpg
The back mount was very difficult. Look at the first pic of the integra bracket, major fitment issues. I had to cut a section out of it, bent it down, and patch it back together. See how nice and curved down it ended up? Then I fabbed up the piece that I welded onto the crossmember. No clearance problems, no moving brake lines, etc!
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/814000-814999/814838_9_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/814000-814999/814838_10_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/814000-814999/814838_11_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/814000-814999/814838_12_full.jpg

[Shane86]

hi there, i went to look at your pictures, but am having trouble loading/accessing them.
i have tried on both a computer and a phone :( any suggestions? Can anyone at all help with this, or send me some pictures?

You can't see the photos because Photobucket has taken them. This is a old thread but you can buy mounts to do the swap. And you can rework the harness and added a ECU jumper