Hesitation below 2200?

[FyreDaug]

The carbed 87 hatch is at it again. When I got the car it was doing something very similar and I replaced plugs and wires from my other car (which were almost new) and the problem went away. But now it seems like the same problem has arrisen. Anything over 2200 is fine and its got a normal amount of power. Any ideas? Is it ignition again and its misfiring?

[shepherd79]

check the plugs, make sure they are clean and adjusted between factory specs even if you have aftermarket coil.

[FyreDaug]

Would it do THIS though? Because it ran perfect when I first put em in, and it seems to be getting worse the more its driven. I ran some seafoam through it before too when I did the plugs, but it seems that its back... if its not plugs could it be a fuel filter problem? Ive yet to check em.

[russiankid]

check the fuel filters, it's possible that they are clogged and your not getting enough fuel

[FyreDaug]

Hmm, well it would seem that if it idles at 1100 (as opposed to 900) it doesnt misfire, and it pulls like it should. The only way its at 1100 is if its ALMOST done warming up, I cant really tell when its cold because its just slow all the time without the secondary, but im thinking vacuum maybe?

[FyreDaug]

I feel ignored :(

[89AccordResto]

Um... keep in mind that in peak condition, it doesn't make much power at lower RPMs. I've noticed almost a 'vtec' like effect with my accord, and it starts pulling hard at about 3 grand or so.

['89AccordLX(Rus)]

Hmm, well it would seem that if it idles at 1100 (as opposed to 900) it doesnt misfire, and it pulls like it should. The only way its at 1100 is if its ALMOST done warming up, I cant really tell when its cold because its just slow all the time without the secondary, but im thinking vacuum maybe?

At 1100 rpm idle during warm up your choke is still not fully open. If it runs well at this point but not as well once its warmed up all the way, you might be running too lean with choke fully open. Check for vacuum leaks because that can surely introduce extra air into the intake manifold and cause you to run lean. Use the old carburetor cleaner spray trick to check for leaks. Hope this helps.

[A20A1]

whats the clearance on your accel pump... is your powervalve working, is your primary booster okay? Is your secondary opening too early, is it manual?


Battery terminals, ground wires, pcv valve,

In peak condition it's a fuel economy car.
We've got a very restrictive primary to break up the fuel and help run a leaner mixture, not so good for making the most power.
With some care and with the right fuel mix and ignition timing you can spin tires and have crisp throttle response from idle to 3,600 rpm.
Problem is finding that elusive mixture, I've done it before when I had my stock carb and I'm automatic.

[FyreDaug]

Yeah I had my last accord running awesome, I removed all vacuum and shit like that though and figured it out manually (no abc controller in canada) and it ran great after my tune up, but its been cold here and I havent had time to work on it. Ill check out the vacuum lines once it warms up. Clearance on accel pump=na powervalve=na, primary booster=na. Secondary seems to be opening at the same time as my last one, so I dont think thats the problem. And when its not fully warm it doesnt open at all like it should. I need to be able to get a warm temperature to fix it.

[A20A1]

na?

[FyreDaug]

not available

[A20A1]

what you have no power valve? that doesn't make sense. even on a no-emission car you have a powervalve.
And no accel pump?
the accel pump is supposed to richen the mixture when you press the pedal to help fill the fuel curve transistional demand gap whatchamacallit.

I'm confused, sorry.

[FyreDaug]

my information was not available because I havent checked. Unable to check right now

[A20A1]

oh okay