those w/ 4 discs

[89lxihb 00lude]

Hey guys how far does your pedal depress with the engine running. I can push mine to th efloor with a some effort but I didn't notice it going done this far with the drums.

Normal yes no? booster bad?
with car off pumping does raise pedal so I assume the booster is ok and just replaced MC which helped but I want a rock solid pedal for road racing. Ideas???

Thanks guys

[PhydeauX]

Not normal, you probalby have a little bit of air left in the system.

andy

[ACCORD EX]

yes air !

MIKE

[89lxihb 00lude]

I did bleed them but it was with a one man bleeder and we all know they suck lol. I did plan on rebleeding but I don't think it'll make that big a difference hope it does though.

[smufguy]

barkes are a senstive shit and u cant mess with it unless u know how to bleed, even a lil bubble in the system makes a huge difference from u being dead or alive. make sure and double check everything if u have any bubbles left. ask your friend to help you for the first couple of times who knows about it.

[89lxihb 00lude]

I do know how to bleed done it dozens of times. I just had to use a one man bleed cause it was late. I'm asking if any one with 4 wheels discs noticed a difference with the rear discs. I've had a softer pedal ever since they have been on. I have braided lines also so It shouldn't be as soft. It's softer than my 2000 prelude. I got the simple stuff covered and had done every check the service manual overviews. I'm just stumped. I want to have a solid pedal dammit. LOL

[PhydeauX]

When they are right you should have the same if not a slightly harder pedal, esp with the braided lines. Did you change the proportioning valve too. (I always do when doing a conversion, but some people say they got away fine with out changing it). That thing can be a bitch to bleed out.

andy

[night]

are you using a vacuum pump with a little resevoir on it ?
thats the best way to bleed them.


and dont forget the breaks will never take up as fast as a new car. they have master cylinders designed for 'quick take up'.

personally i hate brakes the catch so damn fast

[89lxihb 00lude]

yes i changed propo. valve lol do u have to bleed that separate i hope not the rear discs have been on for over 4 years. lol

I wish i had one of those bleeders would be so easy ususally I have GF pump them for me. LOL "are you done yet my legs are getting tired" lol

screw it maybe I'll just put the prelude brakes and h22 on it :bow:

[PhydeauX]

Well, your're supposed to, but that just makes it quicker. If its been on for that long the air probalby has worked its way out, but you never know. It bleeds similar to a master cyl if you want to check it.

andy

[OldSchoolSwap]

In my experience, "YES" the brakes felt much firmir and a much better positive feel.

You probably left air bubles in your lines or you have a master that will go soon.
The proper way of bleeding a system is to start from the farthest wheel from the master cyl. In our case, I start to bleed from the rear right, then rear left, front right and front left.

Once this is all done (making sure that their's always brake fluid in the reservoir) My paranoid ass double checks everthing again and i'll rebleed to make sure that no air is in the system ;)

My 02

[89lxihb 00lude]

my master did go thats why it's been replaced. the pedal does feel firmer than when posted first. I also recheck everythign often. I think I just need to rebleed the system then should be good. The way the pedal feels now even though it probably has air in it my master must have gone bad long ago. LOL

[89lxihb 00lude]

finally was able to bleed the brake with my GF pumping brakes. the right rear caliper let out a bunch of bubbles the the one man bleeder left. MAN WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!! Now with the new master cylinder I can lock up the tires at almost any speed. Before I wasn't able to treshold brake because the worn master wouldn't get to lock, but now WOW this thing stops. LOL as you can tell I'm a little excited now I can race it in SCCA ITB and not have to worry about not stopping. LOL

[rocky2]

The thing I don't like about 4-disc brakes are the rear disc's takeing up the slack. Theres some kind of auto-adjuster thingie that always frezzes up not allowing a firm pedal. Drum brakes age better. I don't like anti-lock brakes either...to much to go wrong.

[89lxihb 00lude]

don't have abs i converted a lxi

[2Fast_Fiero]

I don't see how there would be any difference, My 87 LXi has drums and the drums only work with the e brake, I don't know if you guys are talkin about hitin the normal brake and the Drums are working with that, cause with my car, they only expand and work with the e brake, the front discs are the only ones that respond to you hitin the brake.

[89lxihb 00lude]

dude all four wheels get braking force when u push teh brake.

[OldSchoolSwap]

Thats correct. All four wheels will stop (even drums) when you stomp on the brake pedal. Even though drums SUCK!

[superaccord]

do u have to open the brake fluid reservour when you bleed the brakes or do you leave it closed?

[shepherd79]

damn, talk about bring old threads back to live.
yeah open the brake fluid reservoir and keep the eye on it. don't let it go below min mark. try to keep it above the middle between the min and max lines.

[superaccord]

Hey... I bled my brake lines really good this time. Brakes seem to work good so far, but i hear like a clank noise from the disk in the driverside rear when i hit the brake. Kinda like the pad hitting the disk. Any one know why that is?

[Busted_Blue]

Hey... I bled my brake lines really good this time. Brakes seem to work good so far, but i hear like a clank noise from the disk in the driverside rear when i hit the brake. Kinda like the pad hitting the disk. Any one know why that is?

hate to bring up another old thread, but I got this same problem too..in fact the EXACT same problem in driver rear. Any ideas?