ive got 2 oil leaks from hell

[newaccorddriver]

ive finally had a chance to pin point my sources for an oil leak. its my distributor and my oil pan gasket.

replacing the oil pan gasket should be pretty straight forward. im having problem finding the part i require to fix my distributor leak. its leaking at the base where it pretty much sits on the head. does anybody know which part i gotta replace?

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1986&catcgry3=4DR+LXI&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=DISTRIBUTOR+%28PGM-FI%29+%28TEC%29

[A20A1]

7

You might consider alternative O-rings. Remove the distributor from the head... pull off the o-ring on the end.

[88Accord-DX]

7 & 8 for sure. O-rings are cheap, sure both need replacing..

[newaccorddriver]

well, its pointless to replace it now i guess. probably gonna have to buy a motor to rebuild over the winter considering theres those 2 leaks i mentioned and i found another one today, the head gasket. after finding out the head gasket was shit, i decided wether its time to retire my accord. its weird how i never noticed the head gasket leak until i did a compression test.

compression test results also sucked, 130, 125, 125 and 130 which is probably pretty low for our cars. it doesnt burn oil, but the rings are shot to hell probably.

[HondaBoy]

you sure its a head gasket leak? and why do you think it is a head gasket leak. you getting oil in your coolant? oil leaks dont just happen by themselves though. check on your PCV valve to see if its working or clogged. that has made a big ass difference in how my car leaks oil after replacing it. but i still had to replace some gaskets. i still havent replaced the O ring for my distributor, but i have it sitting here. i've had it for a while now so i think i should just put it in since its simple.

oh i forgot to say this. my oil leaks i thought was from the oil pan gasket was really the oil filter base gasket. and as for when i thought my head was leaking, it was really the valve cover gasket. i thought that because it was just on a corner and looked like it was on the seam where the head butts up to the block.

[newaccorddriver]

you sure its a head gasket leak? and why do you think it is a head gasket leak. you getting oil in your coolant? oil leaks dont just happen by themselves though. check on your PCV valve to see if its working or clogged. that has made a big ass difference in how my car leaks oil after replacing it. but i still had to replace some gaskets. i still havent replaced the O ring for my distributor, but i have it sitting here. i've had it for a while now so i think i should just put it in since its simple.
oh i forgot to say this. my oil leaks i thought was from the oil pan gasket was really the oil filter base gasket. and as for when i thought my head was leaking, it was really the valve cover gasket. i thought that because it was just on a corner and looked like it was on the seam where the head butts up to the block.


between the head and the block right around cylinder #1, there are oil stains there and oil drip marks. not on the head, but from the block going down. also, right around cylinders #2/3/4 there is no oil coming out from there. there is oil leaking from around the oil pan as i can easily see the oil mark on the pan and where its dripped onto. ive used a mirrior and looked around the block and the only other place its leaking oil from is the distributor.

im no expert, but if there is any other way to verify if theres an oil leak, im all ears. i would use a flourescent dye in my oil, but those things are somewhat costly for me right now, and my car isnt insured at the moment so i cant drive it around anyways.

[VTEC_Inside]

My damn pan is rusted through in a small spot. Just noted it dripping today...

sigh...

[shepherd79]

since your engine is worn out and started to leak, i would look into replacing it with a newer one, that has good compression.
Look on this board, call local junk yards, check the local nes papers for junk 86-89 accords (doesn't have to be the same model, you can swap EFI or carb between the long blocks).
Look around. It would be cheap alternative. Unless you really want to spend money and get a new/used car.

[newaccorddriver]

since your engine is worn out and started to leak, i would look into replacing it with a newer one, that has good compression.
Look on this board, call local junk yards, check the local nes papers for junk 86-89 accords (doesn't have to be the same model, you can swap EFI or carb between the long blocks).
Look around. It would be cheap alternative. Unless you really want to spend money and get a new/used car.


im looking into rebuilding a motor then swapping my old one in for the rebuilt one. problem is, a guy wants $100 for his block/head and some attachments which is pretty cheap, but the problem is it ran low on coolant and has no compression. im guessing it was a cracked block, and i dont have a truck to get one from the junkyard... how much do you figure the whole engine weighs? i can always buy the engine as a whole, and then bring it back home piece by piece, shouldnt take more then a few trips

[VTEC_Inside]

Not worth starting another thread, so I'll just add here quick.

Wire brush wasn't the greatest idea I had all day.

On the bright side, it forced me to "fix" it and I wont have to worry about it for another little while. I plugged the actual hole with a small computer screw and covered in a small amount RTV sealant. Waited for that to set and then fiberglassed the ever loving piss out the pan.

[88Accord-DX]

If the block is cracked, there is no point is messing with it. You need to find a good block that is rebuildable. It could be a blown headgasket though. You need a compression gauge to test all the cylinders before anything. Cylinders 2 & 3 are the ones that have low & no compressions.

Same thing with a cracked head. There are specialty shops that weld cracks in heads though, few & far between.

[newaccorddriver]

If the block is cracked, there is no point is messing with it. You need to find a good block that is rebuildable. It could be a blown headgasket though. You need a compression gauge to test all the cylinders before anything. Cylinders 2 & 3 are the ones that have low & no compressions.

Same thing with a cracked head. There are specialty shops that weld cracks in heads though, few & far between.


well, i went to the junkyard today(i made a post about how sad it was), and there were quite a few wrecked accords, so i might take AZMikes suggestion about taking an engine from a wrecked accord. the only problem is its front end damage mostly, but the damage doesnt extend to the engine, mainly up to the radiator. theres no real way i could test out an engine thats outside of the car or in a junkyard though, so its really a risk either way.

[VTEC_Inside]

Fiberglass fix didn't work worth crap, but I guess it would have helped had I let it set up.

I just finished replacing the oil pan/gasket. I never want to do this job again. So much BS for one f'in thing.

The ultimate kick in the sack is that I still have an oil leak from the oil pan breather hose :(. In retrospect it was this leak that made me go poking around under there in the first place.

Oh well, the pan was pretty bad sooo....