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Ichiban
03-28-2006, 11:53 PM
here we go...finally some pictures of the car guy hates...i apologise for the stupidly sized pic's
i'm thinking of putting together a how to on bodywork welding, as a lot of our
cars are dying of cancer, and MIG+new sheet metal seems to be the cure. here is some of the work i've done so far, i'll get a writeup on here as soon as i have time
(and the booze wears off)
i've redone both rear quarters with Europarts patch panels and the rockers with custom bent pieces from the local sheet metal shop (18 bucks each)
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j263/guyhatesmycar/100_0398.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j263/guyhatesmycar/100_0399.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j263/guyhatesmycar/100_0400.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j263/guyhatesmycar/100_0401.jpg
...and doing the heads on my chevy, for you V8 guys
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j263/guyhatesmycar/scan0001.jpg

Ichiban
04-10-2006, 08:43 PM
Today i was trying to iron out the other side, where i replaced the fuel door as well as doing the quarter patch panel. this was the first side i did, and it is the worse of the two for sure. for some reason, the weld "sank" into the sheet metal causing a sort of a valley with the weld at the bottom. other areas are mis-aligned, with the patch metal being higher/lower than the original metal, requiring a deep (1/8'') of fill (lead, with epoxy filler on top). i've been experimenting with heating and quenching, as well as heating and hammering, the latter being the most effective. anyhoo, i'll have some pics to post once i get to the leading stage, hopefully in a day or two here.

A20A1
04-10-2006, 11:23 PM
Nice work.

PhydeauX
04-11-2006, 06:11 AM
Do you have the common frame rot on the frame rails right in front of the rear wheel wells? It seems these cars love to rust out there. Might as well take care of that while you've got the welder out.

andy

Ichiban
04-11-2006, 09:45 AM
i've actually replaced about 10 inches of the drivers frame rail with old road sign (it makes wicked patch panel material) and a small area on both rails right above where the trailing arm crosses underneath. there were originally several layers of thin metal there which i replaced with one thick piece, countersunk in flush and welded with a wide weave to join all the thin pieces to the patch. i ground off everything and polished it with a flap wheel because the car has to be inspected, and sectioning of structural panels is forbidden in BC. if i could get the pic's off of my stupid phone, i'd post pictures of just before the undercoat went on.

PhydeauX
04-12-2006, 07:48 AM
Did you drill a hole in the bottom of it so the water can drain out? I beleive there was one originally there stock or some where in the vacinity of that area. But since every 2g I've ever seen has rusted out in that spot I can't be sure. It's a real bad area. They don't let you patch your frame in BC? That sucks I would have expected that it would be common, unless they don't salt the roads up there either ;). I assume they just expect you to drive with a rusted out frame or scrap the car, cause everyone can just afford to buy a new car. Road salt or not 2gs are rust magnets :(. I've still yet to fix mine, been lazy and they keep letting me slide at inspection.

andy

Ichiban
04-12-2006, 10:25 AM
there was a drain hole stock but it was too small and plugged with years of crap, so i drilled it out to 1/2'' and flushed the crap. i coated the inside with weld-thru zinc and the roadsign i used for patch is nickel plated. (not stainless though). the frame rail itself is a bitch to weld to because all the scale between the layers is impossible to clean out and causes porosity. i ended up welding and grinding it out several times and then doing a wide cap pass to eliminate all the bubbles.

edit:hehee!! check out the ad's at the top of the page that this thread causes! that's great!

Ichiban
04-15-2006, 09:39 PM
i've scrapped the lead filler idea as the panel is under too much stress, and the tinning won't
stick to the leftover scale left along the weld. so i've sandblasted the panel clean, paying
careful to clean all the crap along the edges of the weld. The paint marker doodling all over
the car is courtesy of chad, guy's little brother.
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j263/guyhatesmycar/100_0486.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j263/guyhatesmycar/100_0485.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j263/guyhatesmycar/100_0484.jpg
here is the passenger's side panel in primer. Here i did use lead and finished with glazing putty.
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j263/guyhatesmycar/100_0483.jpg

denhonda
04-17-2006, 12:13 PM
Panel looks pretty fine in its primer coat!

Good job.

Ichiban
04-17-2006, 08:29 PM
thanx...

today i laid on the first coat of primer on the drivers side, revealing a pile of little details that need attending to. i'll post a pic as soon as it's ironed out.

Gerroni
04-17-2006, 08:37 PM
Thats hella good welding. Bravo.
:cheers:

carotman
04-17-2006, 10:44 PM
Nice Job!

Ichiban
05-03-2006, 10:22 PM
Update: I've finished the filler coat on the drivers side, and blocked out both with olive coloured primer. I found a couple of problems on the passenger side and so i tore it up with a 40 grit disc and layed on some plastic filler. most of it got boarded off and now it's straight. Pictures will happen soon.

Ichiban
05-08-2006, 10:08 PM
So today i was gingerly removing the windshield trim so i could clean up a little rust along the roofline and the front valance, when i discovered that the trim had been glued on by some inept retard. Of course i found out by busting the otherwise flawless windshield all to fuck. Oh, and i trashed the trim as well....how hard can using the clips be?

Ichiban
05-10-2006, 11:48 AM
....welded up about an inch-long chunk of missing pinch weld on the passenger's side corner of the windshield. guess this is why I always had a puddle on the floor after a rainstorm.

2ndGenGuy
06-22-2006, 07:25 AM
I know this is a couple months old, but great job man! Looking good so far. (Yeah I know you won't read this message until August)

When my car got the repaint, we wound up welding in new sheetmetal around the windshield as well. The passenger side below the windshield was pretty much gone. We sandblasted around the entire windshield, fixed up the holes, and hit that shit with some anti-corrosive coat before we primed it. That should keep that from ever rusting out again. At least for a while.

There was some rust in the roof too, when we hit that with the sandblaster, it left a hole up there that we had to fill in too. But now there's no whistling noises anymore, yay!

BTW What does it say about lowered Honda's on the back of your tailgate? LOL

2ndGenGuy
11-06-2006, 12:23 AM
Just reread this thread after some time. Its pretty cool stuff you've got going on. Seeing it in person is even more amazing. Half the stuff you've done to the car, you can't even tell you did! Thats what I call good work, you want the car to look untouched, and for sure it does... I shoulda taken more pictures of it while I was up there. You should post more pics with your next update. Looking forward to it.

Civic Accord Honda
11-09-2006, 04:34 PM
cool i need to do that to my 3gee
do you have any newer pics?

Ichiban
11-09-2006, 04:38 PM
cool i need to do that to my 3gee
do you have any newer pics?

I will in a bit. I have to finish putting together the engine for my truck and then I'll start working on the car again.

RamThis
12-14-2006, 11:47 PM
I see now what you meant over in my thread. Yep, we both got some major work ahead of us LOL. Looks like you are more into curing 3G cancer though. I'm luckin in that respect, as the worst rust on my car was a small bit of bubbled up paint in my rear wheel well under that black rubber trim that they put along the pinch weld on the backside. Seems to be a bad water holder right there. Other than that, the only other rust was a few spots of minor surface rust that sanded out with die grinder, like a couple small spots around my windshield, and one where the fender bolts onto the cabin.

You need to get some update pics up soon! :)

Ichiban
12-15-2006, 07:52 PM
99% of the welding is done, until I fab the headers and motor mount. It's gonna turn into the mud and paint thread.

Civic Accord Honda
01-17-2007, 12:29 AM
Plz Take New Pics I Am Biging You

offthahook
01-19-2007, 07:34 AM
BTW What does it say about lowered Honda's on the back of your tailgate? LOL

I thought it said "Powered by Honda." We may never know for sure since it's cut off in the pic!

2ndGenGuy
01-19-2007, 11:50 AM
You're right, it does say that. Remember, I drove 8 hours to see that car in person. :)

Ichiban
01-19-2007, 11:50 AM
I thought it said "Powered by Honda." We may never know for sure since it's cut off in the pic!

It does, I'll try to update some pic's today.

2ndGenGuy
01-19-2007, 12:29 PM
-

Ichiban
01-31-2007, 09:13 PM
Today I finished welding up the trim holes in the passengers side door. All I have left for welding is the hole in the front drivers floor mount I put in with the jackstand. I hope to have pics up tomorrow or Friday.

Ichiban
02-01-2007, 12:57 AM
Here was my 20 minutes of work tonight. I welded up the 3 or 4 holes in the passengers door, I'm shaving the trim. Also included are some close ups of the rocker panels I replaced, the chunk of missing pinch weld and a back shot of the quarter panel, as well as some general car shots of it as it is.


http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j263/guyhatesmycar/100_0837.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j263/guyhatesmycar/100_0836.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j263/guyhatesmycar/100_0835.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j263/guyhatesmycar/100_0834.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j263/guyhatesmycar/100_0833.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j263/guyhatesmycar/100_0841.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j263/guyhatesmycar/100_0839.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j263/guyhatesmycar/100_0838.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j263/guyhatesmycar/100_0846.jpg

MessyHonda
02-01-2007, 08:15 AM
looks better and better i wish i had a garage to do work now.

teck
02-01-2007, 08:18 AM
lookin good

2ndGenGuy
02-01-2007, 08:21 AM
Lookin good! I didn't see the pics last night... Keep pluggin away at it and you'll be driving it in no time!

seancornelis
02-05-2007, 05:01 PM
Oh man you've done a ton of work on this thing, it's gonna look super-clean when it's done!

Ichiban
02-05-2007, 06:56 PM
Update: This weekend I cut out that rusty blotch near the rear of the door, and filled it with sheet metal and weld. I hammered and dollied for about 2 hours because of the severe warp it put into the metal. Every time a weld cools, it pulls the metal around it in, gathering it into folds and wrinkles. The solution is to hammer the weld bead out, stretching the metal and allowing it to relax.

Cheeseburger
02-05-2007, 07:29 PM
pimp!

2ndGenGuy
02-05-2007, 07:46 PM
Man bodywork is long and tedious. The result is something that can't be replicated any other way. What you put in is what you'll get out, so I know that it's going to be a good looking car.

lostforawhile
02-05-2007, 07:51 PM
great thread,it's good to see someone else fixing their accord the right way. not just slapping some body filler over the rust. now people can understand why my car is taking so long. I didn't have a terrible amount of rust,but I did weld up the antenna hole and washer hole with sheet metal. the rear of the drivers side rear fender was smashed up flat under my car as well as buckling the hatch floor. all fixed now though. the worst was the trim piece that fits under my rear lights,I simply couldn't find one anywhere,so half of it is rebuilt from scratch. the other half looked like swiss cheese. all those holes were filled with weld and reshaped. and that piece is paper thin. we just got a new electric bead roller and english wheel at the school so now just about anything can be fabricated from scratch. if you lived here i could help you more. oh by the way somebody duct tape CAH to a chair, tape his eyelids open and make him read this thread about a hundred time. THIS is how you repair rust....... now write on the blackboard 300 times,I will not bondo over rust holes...I will not bondo over.....

Ichiban
02-11-2007, 05:34 PM
I've been thinking about buying an electric bead roller from the Eastwood catalog. Also, I'm tired of drilling and plug welding, have you heard much about portable resistance spot welding?

Bglad420
02-11-2007, 06:15 PM
Your not drilling holes for a snatch bar to pull out dents are you?? Cause if you are thats a lot of wasted work. Use a nail gun, and pull them with that, it welds a brass nail to the metal and then you pull the dent out and twist the nail off, no holes no welding. And if your not doing any of this diregard my comment. Good luck with your project!

Bglad420
02-11-2007, 06:15 PM
PS: You spelt ugly wrong on your hood.

lostforawhile
02-11-2007, 06:19 PM
I've been thinking about buying an electric bead roller from the Eastwood catalog. Also, I'm tired of drilling and plug welding, have you heard much about portable resistance spot welding?east wood makes a good pin spot welder for pulling dents,at school we use the resistance spot welder with a slide hammer head,it welds to the body,you pull on the dent with the slide hammer,and you simply twist it to make it pop right off. it leaves a very small amount of weld which I remove with a 30 grit disc in an air grinder,at very low rpm. if you look at my home page in my signature, look for the flashing camera on my home page,click on the link,then look for the bodywork pictures album. there are a couple of pictures of my wife pulling dents with one on my car.

Ichiban
02-11-2007, 07:06 PM
In regards to the portable resistance spot welder, I was referring to the clamp shaped device for spot welding lap joints, Ie pinch welds along windshields, rocker panels, wheel wells etc. For dent pulling, I just tack weld nails, pull them with the slide hammer, then grind 'em off.

"ULGY" Haha i just noticed that. That BTW wasn't me.

offthahook
02-11-2007, 08:24 PM
Man bodywork is long and tedious. The result is something that can't be replicated any other way. What you put in is what you'll get out, so I know that it's going to be a good looking car.

Proper bodywork is long and tedious... Earl Scheib will do "bodywork" but their defintion is rather loose. You're right-- input will equal output. It takes patience to do proper prepwork. It's worth it in the end when you have no ripples, flat spots, etc. because the paint just sets up perfect on the metal.

Civic Accord Honda
02-12-2007, 10:40 PM
oh by the way somebody duct tape CAH to a chair, tape his eyelids open and make him read this thread about a hundred time. THIS is how you repair rust....... now write on the blackboard 300 times,I will not bondo over rust holes...I will not bondo over.....

lol ...this is how i want to do body work just dont have the money too :( and i found out i cant work cuz of my grades :( no work perment :( :(.but the reson i did my car that was was cuz it's cheep and it looks beter then a rust hole i plan on redoing it b-4 it gets painted but for now it will just have a cheep rattel can job

robertjordan44b
05-12-2007, 08:49 AM
Howdy im aquiring a 85 accord lx with some precancerous looks to it and some body repair needing to be done wanna come to tn for a bit haha... maybe you guys can explain some of this in more lamens terms for me or jsut give me some ideas in a pm or two...

Ichiban
05-12-2007, 09:30 AM
Basically, you sandblast the surface rust, cut out any badly corroded metal, fit your patch pieces to the holes you cut out, weld them in, grind the weld smooth and skim coat with a little polyester filler. Then paint.

robertjordan44b
05-13-2007, 10:07 AM
Werd..... on thos patch pieces.. anything you suggest it be since i ge tthe gist the originals were fairly prone to cancer?



Basically, you sandblast the surface rust, cut out any badly corroded metal, fit your patch pieces to the holes you cut out, weld them in, grind the weld smooth and skim coat with a little polyester filler. Then paint.

Ichiban
05-13-2007, 12:22 PM
You can try and find a donor car and cut the pieces out, you can buy a sheet of annealed steel and bend it into shape, or you can find scrap sheetmetal and use it to patch the holes in the car. As long as you seal and treat the new metal, it should last.

lostforawhile
07-25-2007, 07:38 PM
the metal in these cars really isn't that bad,it's mostly the climate they were in. i know in coatal areas,the second generation ones get holes in the body just from the salt air. if you really want to keep one from rusting,strip it to bare metal,treat the metal,then spray the entire thing with quality 2k epoxy primer,to seal the metal. much better then the factory corrosion protection. also take the inside apart,and spray the inside of the quarters, doors,etc. with the same thing. it's a lot of work,but it's worth the effort. i live in an area without a lot of rust problems,so i haven't done this,but i would if i lived in an area with salt. a lot of the rust starts from the inside. example. in salt areas, salt gets in the quarters inside of the car,just like dust does, also inside of the doors, then moisture gets in there,eithier from water,or just condensation,and bam!! you have highly concentrated salt water eating the panels from the inside.

BotchedExperiment
10-03-2007, 11:46 AM
I've got a 1g that I'm messing around with. I definitely don't know what I'm doing. There was some rust holes in one of the wheel wells, so I cut out all the rust, bought a piece of 30 gage galvenized steel, cut it to fit, and glued it in with 3M automotive structural glue (as suggested by some guy somewhere on the internet--the ultimate reference). Then I primered it, and sprayed it with a bunch of rattle can "rubberized undercoating."

What do you think? Will the glue hold? Was that the right type of metal to use?

Thanks.

P.S. Seems like you're doing a really good job. Definitely the way I'd like to do it, if I had the skill, patience, equipment, space, time, money. . .

Ichiban
10-03-2007, 08:02 PM
Galvanized steel might have problems with the glue.

lostforawhile
10-13-2007, 07:54 AM
I've got a 1g that I'm messing around with. I definitely don't know what I'm doing. There was some rust holes in one of the wheel wells, so I cut out all the rust, bought a piece of 30 gage galvenized steel, cut it to fit, and glued it in with 3M automotive structural glue (as suggested by some guy somewhere on the internet--the ultimate reference). Then I primered it, and sprayed it with a bunch of rattle can "rubberized undercoating."

What do you think? Will the glue hold? Was that the right type of metal to use?

Thanks.

P.S. Seems like you're doing a really good job. Definitely the way I'd like to do it, if I had the skill, patience, equipment, space, time, money. . .na,it nees to be fixed right,thats just a temp fix,the holes need to be fixed with steel and it needs to be welded in. i decided that after i take auto collision i'm going to take the diploma program in welding, i can fabricate all day,and machine stuff, but if i can't weld that good what is the use? i really need the welding skills.

denhonda
10-13-2007, 11:18 AM
I'm hoping to start on an evening welding course in January. The course was meant to have started in September, but some lame excuse at the college meant it was was postponed.

At least with the above 'temp fix' he's sort of got it right by having cut the rusted metal out...

Ultimately theres no substitute for doing the job right.

Finally the best thing about this thread (for those unaware), is that the work on the car has been done & finished & thats some achievement in itself !

Ichiban
11-05-2007, 03:58 PM
Finally the best thing about this thread (for those unaware), is that the work on the car has been done & finished & thats some achievement in itself !

Thanks, it wasn't easy or quick;). Unfortunately, some of the finishing stages of the bodywork were slightly rushed, but mainly on the lower section of the car that I plan on repainting anyway. I actually found the welding to be easier than the final stages of bodywork, but that's probably because towards the end I was severly pressed for time.

2ndGenGuy
11-05-2007, 05:04 PM
How's she holding up? Still happy with your choices in paint and materials?

Ichiban
11-05-2007, 08:58 PM
There aren't any rust explosions yet. The paint did lift up along the upper body crease on the rear passengers quarter panel, about 4mm wide by 15-20mm long. That didn't impress me much. There is also the odd chip along the back of the car from when I was trying to line up the hatch on zero hours of sleep. For now I'm just going to touch up these areas, I'm considering doing a quick scuff and respray once I get organised enough to do the black and stripes like I want to.

AccordB20A
04-16-2008, 05:29 PM
Man you have done a lot of bodywork. came out good too :)

Ichiban
04-16-2008, 05:35 PM
Update: A few paint bubbles, on the upper shadow line, and a couple on the rocker panel crease. Found out that this is most likely due to not enough drying time between wet sanding the primer and topcoating. Also, there was some sort of adhesion problem on the rocker panels, I think they just might not have gotten a full film of paint. I ground them both clean last weekend and hit em with rattle can primer and rock guard. Pics to follow.

Hazwan
04-16-2008, 06:09 PM
I want to see pics. I have few paint bubbles with mine too :(