What makes that vacuum removal mod so good?

[FyreDaug]

Ive done it on my last car and I just did it on my hatch today.. Its such a better responding car. Much better power in the low end. I dont even use any of the thermovalves at all. Ive ogt like 5 vacuum lines and thats it.

Still on the factory top box, gonna switch to my short ram soon (tomorrow?) and get the exhaust off the other car, re-welded and put on this one (headerback 2.5")

Everything is better on this car now, except idle is a little low and almost dies with system up, but its good everywhere. Much better 1500-3500 response, and thats where it needed it. 3500+ is stil about the same, no system vacuum going to anything and secondary open so I dont notice much there, but a little I guess.

Highly suggested to those who havent yet

[A20A1]

I consider it a potential vacuum leak(s) removal mod... you also make it easier to work on the car and gain access to areas under the intake manifold and such.

Also you'll gain a bit of richness... and with the EFE screen punched out you'll let in more air.

So am I to assume your 5 vacuum lines are (A.B.C-2-14)

Forget the short ram... get something like this. http://www.racetep.com/ramflolynx.html the 1000CFM one is a nice shape, I used a simmilar one called a pro-flo from edelbrock. The 300 CFM should be okay, but I'd say go for the 600.
modify it (dremel) to fit our carb... make sure you keep the rubber ring that is on the stock air box so you can use it with the filter.

The closest neck diameter to ours I think is the 88mm one. Which means we'd get the 600 cfm one.. part number "RF-6-54" or they offer blank base plates "RF600BP"


Convert to a weber 38 and you only need 2 vacuum lines.
one for brake booster and one for the vacuum advance.

[SQ is the SQUAD]

can i remove the black box with an efi setup?

[w00tw00t111]

So I was just thinking about this. Since, when you do the vaccum removal mod you pretty much gurantee failing the emissions portion of inspection could you get one of those "vaccum blocks" or I guess make one and then when you're not taking the emissions test just block up all the holes that are uneeded and then when inspection time rolls around you reconnect them? I don't know why that just hit me or for that matter if it would even work but, I'm assuming that the reason you fail emissions is because of the added fuel but, if reconnect and readjusting the idle fixes the problem then wuala you've gained power but, w/ a couple hours of work can also pass emissions. Just a thought, y'all think it'll work?

[86-accord-lxi]

You could (remove the black box) But it's not recommended. It will make the ecu go crazy.
I think maybe a couple people on here have tried the vacum removal on efi,
and it caused problems, No one reallly ever got it all down pact. Atleast, Not that I know of.

[bobafett]

there is a lot of stuff that you can remove from the black box, but some of it even *I* wouldnt want to remove. there is a vaccum regulator, and i think thats about all i would want to keep. well the map sensor too i suppose. :)

[SQ is the SQUAD]

id wire up a map sensor. but if i am converting to odb1, will i still need it. ill have a different dizzy, and prob a different intake manifold

[FyreDaug]

Ok, well Ive got a little more than 5 lines, this is how I did it. First off all you know that vacuum tree on the right side of the intake mani? (when you are looking at motor), well I got another one of those from my parts car and put it on the right side, just incase it was doing something with cylinders 3/4 by using vacuum I just split up the vacuum on them.
ps, im bad with names
1-Idle solenoid
2-front left of carb, choke solenoid?
3-same, put 2 just in case
4-Back left of the carb, the thing with the wires going into it
5-secondary to carb
6-Vacuum advance (which then T's off, going to both vac adv ports)
Then Ive got a long vacuum hose going from tree to tree... Dunno why really, had the extra hose lyrin around and had 2 ports on the trees left...

Ive already got the short ram on the other car, just a matter of taking it off and putting it on this one.

Sine im not using any emmissions like EGR and what not, can it cause my car to run rougher? It runs good, idles a little low, but thats easy to turn a screw. I dont totally understand what EGR does... for catalytic converter right? puts fresh air so it stays cooler? Thats ok, ive got a catless headerback exhaust going on soon

[Vector]

i have 2 vacuum lines, one to distributor and one to my vac gauge, i love it, even changed my pvc so it doesnt have to use vacuum, or have to worry about it failing as there isnt one now. car runs soooo nice now

[FyreDaug]

As for fuel consumption will it increase or decrease under normal driving conditions, assuming before and after were driving the same

edit: oooh, 1100

[boogeyman728]

i have 2 vacuum lines, one to distributor and one to my vac gauge, i love it, even changed my pvc so it doesnt have to use vacuum, or have to worry about it failing as there isnt one now. car runs soooo nice now
do u have efi or carb cuz i have a EFI HATCH AND WANNA get rid of the infamous black box

[A20A1]

He has a DX, DX is carbureted, at least in the US it is.



i have 2 vacuum lines, one to distributor and one to my vac gauge, i love it, even changed my pvc so it doesnt have to use vacuum, or have to worry about it failing as there isnt one now. car runs soooo nice now



So you hooked your PCV to the exhaust using an exhaust vacuum valve?

[accord upset]

im carbed but there is no black box in mine just a pretty lil webber most every thing was tossed if not important, msd controls spark, weber controls fuel theres not any vacume lines except egr and dizzy advance my puter didnt go crazy.. but if you have efi i could see how it might freak out computer controls pulse width and length the fuel injectors are open.

[sinisterfuzzy]

Ive done it on my last car and I just did it on my hatch today.. Its such a better responding car. Much better power in the low end. I dont even use any of the thermovalves at all. Ive ogt like 5 vacuum lines and thats it.
Still on the factory top box, gonna switch to my short ram soon (tomorrow?) and get the exhaust off the other car, re-welded and put on this one (headerback 2.5")
Everything is better on this car now, except idle is a little low and almost dies with system up, but its good everywhere. Much better 1500-3500 response, and thats where it needed it. 3500+ is stil about the same, no system vacuum going to anything and secondary open so I dont notice much there, but a little I guess.
Highly suggested to those who havent yet

where is the tut on doing this, and throughout all my different stages why hadn't anyone brought this up when i was in my high powered carb stages? lol

[FyreDaug]

where is the tut on doing this, and throughout all my different stages why hadn't anyone brought this up when i was in my high powered carb stages? lol

well you shouldnt really need a tutorial. All you really need is vacuum on the ones I listed. Just hooked them up from a vacuum tree (big 3/8" rubber tubing on the sides of the intake mani)

[A20A1]

well you shouldnt really need a tutorial.

Thats what I said years ago and I still had to make it for some people. go figure.


BTW you should try to redo your list, I'm not sure but it sounds like a few are not named right.

Are they really going to solenoids or are you connecting them to diaphragms?

[FyreDaug]

im not good with the words, diaphrams maybe
But going from memory here, the left (passenger side) tree connects to the evap cannister, the idle solenoid thing, and 1 vacuum advance. The secondary is connected directly off of carb vacuum from the front port, and the right tree connects to the other vacuum advance, the choke puller (2) and the fuel evap thing on the (looking at engine bay) closest to the right side of the carb, right where the 3/8" line goes into


Thats what I said years ago and I still had to make it for some people. go figure.
BTW you should try to redo your list, I'm not sure but it sounds like a few are not named right.
Are they really going to solenoids or are you connecting them to diaphragms?
well not to say I never used it to figure out what things were, but I actually didnt follow it in the end. Where is that link anyways?

[A20A1]

You mean the red fuel vapor hose to the charcoal cannister? or the vacuum line that lets the charcoal cannister vent the fumes?

Or do you mean the PCV filter hose to the valve cover?

why isn't your powervalve connected?


I would like to get the canadian carb just to get rid of the ABC properly instead of running richer. thought you can leave some ABC ports unplugged and others plugged and that is about as much tuning as the US carbs get with the ABC removed.

here is the link.

http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11067

[A20A1]

well not to say I never used it to figure out what things were, but I actually didnt follow it in the end. Where is that link anyways?


I wasn't refering to you... I was talking about the 50 some odd PM's a week asking me for a how to, and not the real how-to either but one that kept all the extra junk which kinda defeated the purpose in a way.

[FyreDaug]

Which one is the powervalve? I think it is connected.

Well I have a 3/8" "fuel line" hose running from the big vent thing on the carb that goes to the cannister with the little vacuum line on it and the line going back to fuel tank. Thats the one I was talking about.

Never had to deal with ABC ports and on 209km ive been getting 550km on a tank (341 miles) on 48 liters of fuel (12.3 gallons) about 27mpg(85% city). I will be upgrading to a spring that averages 37mpg city, I should be getting like 38-39mpg so thats a 37% increase in fuel economy, so if I pay say 1000$ per month in fuel for my accord, by theory it shouldnt be 37% less fuel, but rather 1370 dollars worth of fuel in the accord would cost 1000 in the sprint, so thats like a savings of about 250 bucks a month.

[FyreDaug]

wow that got out of hand, sorry guys :cool:

[DDRaptor]

I've searched and i guess there is no write up. Hmm from what i read from this thread it's no good for ppl that have to emissions test. So i'm putting 2 and 2 together so does this mean a civic air box would mess me up with testing.

I'm just trying to get my facts straight. i got a A20a1 i'm just trying to get that big filter box out.

Thanks alot guys i've learned alot from here.

[A20A1]

getting the filter box out is easy.

though you'll want to add individual filters for each hose connected to the air box except #8 and #33 which would be plugged to avoid a vacuum leak upon removal of the air box.

http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38108

[DDRaptor]

shoot thanks a20 i was searching for vaccuum. so i'm guessing this would be emissions legal.

[A20A1]

it shouldn't be a problem, baring cold weather.

what filter are you going to run in it's place?

[DDRaptor]

i was hopeing to snag on of those cheap intakes from ebay for a teg, then get a k&N cone filter.