redrum
04-02-2006, 05:25 PM
I'll apoligize in advance for what will probably be a long post. I'am in the process of building an 87 accord ( 2.0, 5 speed, EFI) for oval track racing on a 4/10s mile asphalt track. This class (all FWD cars) allows for the removal of the dash, gages, stock steering colume and any non essential equiptment ( AC, heater, cruse,etc ) and pretty much anything else not necessary for going, turning and stopping. The first thing I noticed was the large bundle of wires running under each front fender. While this looks ok for most applications stock car racing is often a contact sport. It seemed that a crunched fender or a shreaded tire could cause all kinds of electrical problems. The wiring harness on the inside of the front firewall was also in the way of some of the necessary changes to the steering and the installation of the roll cage. I decided that it might be a good idea to relocate some of the electrical system out of harms way and to eleminate as much of the unnessary wiring as possible in the process. I started by removing the entire wiring harness. While I have done a good deal of racing this is my first experience with a Honda or for that matter any computer equipt racer. In view of my limited knowledge I deceided to take a careful approach. I placed the harness, main relay, cpu, fuse boxes, etc on a table beside the engine bay and reconnected all of the wiring and grounds. To my suprise it cranked and ran normally. Before I go any futher with this strange tale let me say that prior to doing this I replaced the gas tank with a fuel cell and the stock fuel pump with an MSD in line pump. The crank function of the ign switch was also eliminated with a push button starter switch. Both of these were wired directly from the battery, indepentently of the exsisting wiring on the car. The engine was cranked and run a good deal after these changes. Following the removal of any wiring ( cruse, instument pannel, turn sig, head light relay, power windows and the list goes on) I would crank the engine and make sure that the changes hadn't had any ill effects. The pile on the floor got bigger the bundle on the table got smaller and yet she still ran like a swiss watch. Finally I gave it one final test (with great results) and proceeded to unhook everything and install it in the right front floor board. After rehooking and remounting everything in its new home I attempted to fire up. You have probably guessed by now the result. That was a week ago. I have checked and rechecked all connections. I checked the main relay and injector resistor according to the Haynes repair manual. Both check out ok. I am full of fuel and have plenty of fuel returning when the pump is on, have new plugs and wires and enough fire to light a city at the plug. I' ve grounded everything that was grounded before and as far as I can tell haven't changed anything from the way it was when it was running when the wires were on the table. It seems that the injectors are not getting a signal to fire. The plugs are dry. After sitting a little while it will hit a couple a licks like a small amount of fuel had leaked into a cylinder then nothing. I need to determine how to check the circuit to the fuel injection system to see if its getting a siginal or not. I have all of the tape off the wiring if i only knew which color to check. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks