A/C Compressor Removal

[TechnoGecko]

The clutch in the A/C compressor is a dead short - 1.1 ohms, so it looks like I'm going to need to replace it. I found another compressor in the junkyard out of an 88 4 door, but it was different from the one in my hatchback. Looked the same (Khlein vs Denso) and the mounting holes were the same, but the clutch, location of the hose connections, and so on were different.

So, I'm looking to find another one and just replace the entire unit. So, can someone confirm the directions for removing the A/C compressor, as well as correctly identify which compressor I am going to need to get the A/C working in this 88 Accord Hatchback?


Thanks in advance!

['A20A3']

You want the Denso. Fuck a fuckin keihn.

[TechnoGecko]

Are the Denso's the larger ones or the short stubby ones? Also, will the hoses need to be changed using a Denso vs Keihn, or will it be a direct bolt in?

Mine looks like this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-89-honda-accord-OEM-ac-compressor-w-clutch_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33543QQitemZ8012 340732QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

[TechnoGecko]

Also, to remove the compressor can you just unbolt the power steering pump and remove the driver side fan and pull it up between there, or is there a different way to remove it?

[Swap_File]

Also, to remove the compressor can you just unbolt the power steering pump and remove the driver side fan and pull it up between there, or is there a different way to remove it?

Thats how I did it.

[TechnoGecko]

Good to know. Is there any type of rebuild I should do to a compressor I pull from a junkyard, or just install it and bring it somewhere to be evac'd and charged? Also, will most places charge it with R-12, or are they going to require a retrofit to R-134a?

... anyone know a good place in Phoenix/Tucson that'll charge it?

[TechnoGecko]

I've been looking in to doing the recharge myself and it doesnt sound like it would cost all that much. Here is what I'm looking at - someone good with A/C stuff or someone who has done this in the past please feel free to comment...

Pump - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AIR-VACUUM-PUMP-GAS-A-C-CHARGER-CONDITIONER-R12-R22-new_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46094QQitemZ8054154 250QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

I've got a 20 gal air compressor that should work just fine. Has anyone ever used one of these before? I'm at sea level, so I should be able to put enough vac on the system.

R12 Replacement Coolant
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/R12-Retro-Nipple-Hose-GAUGE-Maxi-R134-FREON-SUBSTITUTE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46094QQitemZ 8045342154QQtcZphoto
Not sure how many 12oz cans the system will require, anyone know? Also, after you evac the system I understand that you then have to add both oil and the coolant in to the system. Whats the coolant to oil ratio? This says no vac is needed, but somehow I doubt that. Same for oil, is it inside the cans with the coolant?

What am I missing? Thanks!

[Swap_File]

For switching to R134 I got the set of manifold gauges and the vaccum from harbor freight. ( www.harborfreight.com ). The manifold set goes on sale for as low as $40, and the air vacuum thing normally is around $15.

Make sure to get an R134 vacuum pump if you get an R134 manifold so everything matches up. R134 manifolds have a 1/4 inch acme connector, while the R12 has a 1/2 acme connector. If you need both sizes it's cheaper to buy both pumps than to buy an adapter.

Those venturi effect vacuum pumps work, but it will take a long time to pull a decent vacuum. Small pumps may not be able to keep up, and you may have to keep shutting the manifold and air compressor valve off, and waiting to build pressure again.

There is usually a free shipping or a $5 off orders over $50 deal going on at Harbor Freight too.

Check out your local Wal-Mart. They should be cheaper for R134 than it would be on Ebay (especially after shipping). I don't think we ever paid over $10 a can last year.

Also, some R12 alternatives (I believe envirosafe) use special connectors. These can be a real pain. While its not the "right" way to do it, its probably cheapest to just convert it all over to R134 style connectors (and fill it with the R12 alternative stuff anyway). Personally I would just switch it over to R134.

Make sure to get new compatible oil in the system, and change the dryer. Read up here http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19188

Edit: Links

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92475
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92649

[TechnoGecko]

Thanks. I know the system has a charge on it right now, I just can't do anything with a broken a/c clutch coil obviously. So I have a few options...

1. Replace the compressor entirely w/ a Denso and convert to 134a
2. Replace the compresssor entirely w/ a Keihn
3. Replace just the clutch

At this point I think i'll try and find a unit with the same clutch assembly and replace it to start. Then after I get the A/C working i'll check the pressure on the system and decide either to go ahead and evac and replace with a r-12 substitute.

If I do decide to throw a Denso in there, is it a direct swap? Are the brackets, hoses, etc different?

Also, I currently have a compressor/cllutch that looks like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-89-honda-accord-OEM-ac-compressor-w-clutch-CHEAP_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33543QQitemZ80410 66114QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW


... has anyone successfully seperated the clutch assembly/coil from the compressor w/o releasing a charge? It appears that if I unbolt it from the car ( after removing the fan and power steering pump ) that I could pull it up top with the hoses still connected and be able to replace the clutch. That possible?

Thanks.

[Swap_File]

The bracket and hoses leading to the Denso are different. I grabbed the compressor, hoses, and bracket at a junk yard really cheap.

I do not know if you can pull the pump all the way out without releasing a charge or not. It would definately be a tight fit.