car stumbles under 3500rpm?

[sjsjbb]

have 89lxi when i take off the car willspit and sputter till i hit 3500 rpm than it will run good when i downshift and get below 3500 it will spit and sputter till i get back up there i do have a 2 blink code that i looked up and havent changed yet,\. not shure which one is the b one any help would would help on why my car sputter and which one is the b oxygen sensor .

[shepherd79]

I don't know which one it is, but it is a good idea to replace them both at the same time.
If that doesn't fix the problem, change the spark plugs, distributor cap and distributor button.

[SeattleSilver]

I have the same problem. I had a tune up done at a dealership in hopes that it would correct the sputter, but it is still there. I have the exact issue as described by author of post. From the notes left by the dealership it says that #1 cylinder is not firing.:idea:

What I would like to know is what is required to fix and possible cost. Would I save money if I have somebody else other than the dealership do the work? Any suggestions are much appreciated.:)

[Whistler225]

I have the same problem. I had a tune up done at a dealership in hopes that it would correct the sputter, but it is still there. I have the exact issue as described by author of post. From the notes left by the dealership it says that #1 cylinder is not firing.:idea:

What I would like to know is what is required to fix and possible cost. Would I save money if I have somebody else other than the dealership do the work? Any suggestions are much appreciated.:)

Geez....the dealership tuned your car and they left #1 not firing? A real tune-up should include a new cap and rotor, new plugs and wires, ignition timing, oil change, tranny fluid change, radiator flush and refill.

What did they do? What did they charge (if I may ask)? It sounds like they didn't tune up your car properly if you ask me.

[SeattleSilver]

Geez....the dealership tuned your car and they left #1 not firing? A real tune-up should include a new cap and rotor, new plugs and wires, ignition timing, oil change, tranny fluid change, radiator flush and refill.
What did they do? What did they charge (if I may ask)? It sounds like they didn't tune up your car properly if you ask me.


In fairness to the dealership the sputtering was there beforehand. They did include a new cap and rotor, plugs and wires, timing, oil change, tranny fluid change, radiator flush and refill. Thought the problem still exisits. Intake manifold air leak possibly? Though that would have been found during tune up. Anymore ideas? Thanks

[Andrew]

The symptoms sound similar to a problem I was having not too long ago, my fuel pump was on it's way out the door.

Also, about three months after I bought it I had similar problems, got the carb rebuilt and it fixed the problem.

[SeattleSilver]

The symptoms sound similar to a problem I was having not too long ago, my fuel pump was on it's way out the door.
Also, about three months after I bought it I had similar problems, got the carb rebuilt and it fixed the problem.

I have EFI. The engine has about 100K on it. I have not had the fuel pump replaced since then. That may be it, but think it would affect the entire engine. I wonder if it maybe the pressure regulator, but think if that was out then the entire engine would be affected more than just #1 cylinder not firing. For quite sometime a slight leak around #3 injector has been noticed and replaced, but light leakage still is visually present (seems very minimal). Could a faulty resistor be to blame. This would not cause the valve to open in the injector which maybe could back things up causing the slight leak I was speaking of (my 2 cents)?

[sjsjbb]

if no. one cyl is not fireing than plug would be discolored i checked mine and they all look the same color.

[SeattleSilver]

if no. one cyl is not fireing than plug would be discolored i checked mine and they all look the same color.
The sputter was there before the tune-up. they did find a bad spark plug wire, replaced it and the engine still has the hesitation. For some reason (not a mechanic of Hondas by any means) I think it may have to do with the "reisitor". Its decribed in my Haynes manual as regulating the amount of fuel sprayed by the injector (I could be off on this one), That is the only ting that I can think of that may not b inluded in the tune-up. I mean the injector could be good if they inspect it, but if the component that regulates how much fuel should be injected is broken; then I think it could be the reason (again...my 2 cents:)
In the meantime my battery died today so....1 problem at a time...ugggg

[Dow]

Same problem here, except I have done a few things that have made a difference.

Spark Plugs. When I change them, the problem disappears until they foul out.

Now what is causeing them to foul out? Not oil, the plugs look normal, but I had a mechanic friend who had similar problems with his Kawk KZ1000 and discovered it was a "Fuel Foul" that caused his problems.

I think that is what is going on with my engine, but finding that problem is going to be awful.

So what plugs should I use that will not foul as quickly. I tried NGK stock plug lasted 2 weeks, the Bosch P4 lasted 4 weeks, and will clean themselves up if I run for a while at high rpms.

I don't want, don't have the money, to experiment with other plugs, so I am hoping someone here will help me with the next set of four plugs I should purchace.

I saw the post on plugs and Denso was mentioned, I am tempted to buy the NGK Platimum, or the Irridium ones, but I would be just wild if they fouled too at 9 dollars a plug.

I do have to fix my temp sending unit. it is bad, and so I by-passed it by setting the resistance to a medium temputure range, where I know I can start it after short trips, I am tempted to put a manual potentiometer on the wires so that I can vary the resistance of the input from inside the vechile.

any comments?

[pos89]

I have EFI. The engine has about 100K on it. I have not had the fuel pump replaced since then. That may be it, but think it would affect the entire engine. I wonder if it maybe the pressure regulator, but think if that was out then the entire engine would be affected more than just #1 cylinder not firing. For quite sometime a slight leak around #3 injector has been noticed and replaced, but light leakage still is visually present (seems very minimal). Could a faulty resistor be to blame. This would not cause the valve to open in the injector which maybe could back things up causing the slight leak I was speaking of (my 2 cents)?
Yea i have the same problem and also the leaking injector to. Everyone keeps telling me its the fuel filter but i dunno.

[girlcrazy_4]

Exact same problem over here. Keep me informed. Just bought the car this evening.

[Swap_File]

I have a similar problem with the 1st cylinder not firing. My car seems to idle and run very rough at low RPMs.

I have swapped injectors between cylinder 1 and 2, and listened to the injectors with my stethoscope (sound good), and checked them with my meter for proper resistance, and have checked to make sure they are getting the correct pulses from the ECU. I have replaced my spark plugs, and spark plug wires. Also checked my resistor box with my meter.

Distributor cap and distributor button will be replaced shorly, but I am getting good spark already. If I unplug the spark plug wires one at a time, with the engine running, I can see a good strong spark jump between the pulled wire and the plug on the distributor cap.

When I unplug any wire other than the wire for the 1st cylinder, I can hear the engine slow down and run alot worse. Same with unplugging the injectors one at a time. When I unplug the 1st cylinder, I hear little or no change.

My compression is approximately 195, 195, 185, 185 (with our old "press and hold in the sparkplug hole" gauge).

After I replace the distributor cap and button, next up will be checking the fuel system I guess (pump, filter, and regulator).

I will also be checking and adjusting my valves in the coming days... but my compression test was good so I do not know if this will help.

[Swap_File]

I think I found the problem...

I went back to the Honda Accord Shop manual, and found how to test the output of the fuel system. Basically you...

1. Short these two pins on the plug from the main relay.

http://img117.imageshack.us/img117/5043/fuelpump003large0jm.th.jpg (http://img117.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fuelpump003large0jm.jpg)

2. Let off the pressure in the fuel system (loosen, then re-tighten that 12mm special bolt on the fuel filter), then hook up a hose to the regulator and run it into a bucket.

http://img53.imageshack.us/img53/6026/fuelpump005large8cf.th.jpg (http://img53.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fuelpump005large8cf.jpg)

3. Turn the key to ON for 10 seconds. You should have approximately 8oz or more of gas in the bucket.

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/5465/fuelpump006large9wm.th.jpg (http://img209.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fuelpump006large9wm.jpg)

I had 1.5 oz.

This narrows down the problem to either...

1. Bad Fuel Pump
2. Bad Filter
3. Bad Regulator
4. Junk in the pipes/hoses

I will probably just replace it all, and flush the system as best I can.

Since the #1 cylinder is the last cylinder on the fuel rail, I guess it would make sense that low fuel pressure would starve that cylinder first.

Also, I used to have some leaking injectors, but I fixed them a few months ago. I grabbed a set of injectors from the junkyard, and took the best of those 4, with the best of my 4, and made one good set.

[girlcrazy_4]

it turns out I have 35psi in ONE of the cylinders. 160 in the others. I wonder what is causing this.