Lost power and won't start

[powderkey2]

Help me Cecil!!!!! My son was on his way home this evening and the car (1989 LX) lost power and stopped. I am starting here w/ the wise. Any suggestions on where to start checking?

The battery is up and the starter is cranking. I took the coil wire off and checked for spark. When trying to turn it over got one quick spark and then no more. There was no spark from the distributor to the wires.

I took off the timing belt cover and when it's cranked the belt doesn't move.

OK...where do I start?

[A20A1]

Hrm... not sure.

Do you think the starter isn't engaging the flywheel, or torque convertor?
Or do you think the mechanical problem is deeper, like the crank itself... or the belt is bust. How is the slack on your timing belt?

Can you check the Top Dead Center TDC allignment?


If it was just the distributor I would have said, Stator Reluctor Gap (Distributor)... odd thing is I'm not sure why, how, and if it was really the problem.

[powderkey2]

There is about a 1/2" - 3/4" slack in the belt. I will try to turn it to TDC this morning. LMAO...I took this problem to bed last night...I woke up once dreaming it was a spun bearing and woke up from a dream that several guys were standing around laughing because I had installed the "flip plate" upside down...hahaha...where the hell did I get a part called a "flip plate"...dreams geez...

[powderkey2]

I tried to move the crank pulley w/ socket and it was spinning and not moving the cam pulley. Guess my timing belt broke.

Guess my question is now...how do you get TDC if the belt is broken?

[powderkey2]

OK...think I researched enough info to get the TDC for the crank and cam. Do I need to remove the alt, power steering and AC units or is possible to work around them. I assume the driver side wheel comes off and the gravel guard needs removing to get to the crank pulley and lower belt cover.

Is there any way to check for valve damage without replacing the timing belt and rotating the cranK? I would hate to go through all this and the valves be damaged.

[A20A1]

the alt isn't in the way... a lot of things are not in the way, they need to be adjusted and pushed aside, but not removed.

The belts should be removed though.

[powderkey2]

yeah...this evening I took off the gravel/splash guard, the valve cover, & upper belt cover, loosened the alt belt, ac belt & ps belt. I'm having a bit of trouble locating the timing mark in the tranny hole. But after reading several articles found out the car needs to be in neutral...duh...that will probably help and I'll wait on daylight...damn slow ass sun.

I called an auto repair shop and asked about their cost on replacing a thrown timing belt...$550 to replace the timing belt & $1800 if the head needs rebuilt. And as a side note...the fellow did say it was an interferring (I believe is the term) motor and said the head is most likely damaged. So it's off to autozone to buy a belt. I think the tensioner pulley seized but i'll wait to buy that piece after I see if there is any head damage.

If so...there may be a really nice '89 LX up for sale. 89k miles, ac, full console w/ cupholders, automatic, new Honda dizzy, remanuf. carb, all new vac hoses, Acura front lip, excellent interior, beefed up grounds and set up for sub...guess it doesn't hurt to do some pre-selling just in case.

[powderkey2]

OK...count me as one of the lucky ones. Put new timing belt on and no valve damage. Installed a new crank seal, water pump and all new belts while I was in there. Guess I'm good to go for another 60k miles or so.

[1989accordaz]

Lucky indeed, my timing belt stripped a few teeth, it didn't break. And no valve damage either.

[Whistler225]

A20A1, please correct me if I'm wrong, but again, we've had this debate in another thread. I believe the general consensus, particularly after someone spoke to an employee at the plant in OH where the engines are made, is that this is a NON-interference engine, meaning there will be no damage to your valve train when you throw the t-belt.

[Oldblueaccord]

OK...count me as one of the lucky ones. Put new timing belt on and no valve damage. Installed a new crank seal, water pump and all new belts while I was in there. Guess I'm good to go for another 60k miles or so.

Thats great news!

I have gone 100k on a newer belt so don't sweat it to much if you run over.

Dont forget to check your timing at some point.


wp

[powderkey2]

lol...yeah i read that thread...but whatever...I'll gladly step to the side of 'no valve damage;'.

thanks again too all that posted