Power windows

[Nospeed]

i've got an issue with them. they work when they want to. some days, they work, other days, they dont. yesterday i was going to the in-laws, and stopped for gas. after i started her up again, the windows wont work. i took the master switch apart and cleaned the contacts - nothing. i checked the fuses - all good. the only thing i didnt check is the window controller, which you cant get into. any suggestions? im going to the j/y today to pick up another controller. little help here.

[MessyHonda]

after 19 years the motors get warn out. my friend had an 89 and the windows would go up slow and he changed the motor and they worked fine

[Nospeed]

after 19 years the motors get warn out. my friend had an 89 and the windows would go up slow and he changed the motor and they worked fine

i understand that...but i really dont think its a motor issue. my drivers window motor isnt hooked up to the window, and when my windows decide to work, you can hear the motor working just fine, same with the passenger side...both motors work just fine-----just when they want to.

[speedpenguin]

If you're sure it's not the motor then you have loose connection somewhere

[Nospeed]

well...i replaced the window controller, and the master switch.......NOTHING

where could a short be?? i checked the fuses and they are ok. all the plugs seat and latch correctly.

fusible links??? if so, where?

['89AccordLX(Rus)]

Have you checked the wiring in the doors? With use the wires can break inside the flexible cover that connects to the chassis. If the driver's door wiring is damaged, you won't be able to control the rest of the motors. Particularly if the power wires for the window switch/control unit are broken.

P.S.: It IS possible to get into the control unit. You need a sharp razor blade/knife and some small screwdrivers to pry the thing open.

Hope this helps.

[Nospeed]

Have you checked the wiring in the doors? With use the wires can break inside the flexible cover that connects to the chassis. If the driver's door wiring is damaged, you won't be able to control the rest of the motors. Particularly if the power wires for the window switch/control unit are broken.

P.S.: It IS possible to get into the control unit. You need a sharp razor blade/knife and some small screwdrivers to pry the thing open.

Hope this helps.

i just swapped all of the drivers door components, but this was happening even before i did the swap. i had to replace the door, so everything got changed. when i did this, i pulled the all the wires out of the door, when i did that, everything looked good. so im stumped.

[Blkblurr]

Have you done any voltage measurements at the window switches to see if they have power present? Check for voltage at all points in the circuit you can right up to the motor. Might want to get the manual to look at the schematic for this.

[Nospeed]

Have you done any voltage measurements at the window switches to see if they have power present? Check for voltage at all points in the circuit you can right up to the motor. Might want to get the manual to look at the schematic for this.

i would if i had a meter...im working on that though.

[Cant Stop]

find the harness plugs and check those for good clean contacts over time they could get corroded i had a rust bucket ford that would do the same thing ghost in the system they would just stop working after driving for a while , car would cool down and windows would work again

[smufguy]

The regulator gets stuck from time to time. Since ours is mechanical cross bar rather than the gay/popularly used cable mechanism, we need to lube the joints. So take it apart. spray some silicone/greece on it and see if it works. Spraying silicone spray lubricant on the tracts of the window edges do help a lot if you ask me. the felt guides tend to get gunked up with dust and whatnot creating more friction between the glass and the guides.

[w261w261]

I assume that both passenger and driver's windows do not work when this happens. Everything else works ok, though? So it isn't the ground connector screw, because other stuff goes there. The first connector upstream from the ground screw is a 14 pin orange one on the dash fuse box (I have an '89, so your specs may be different). You might try unplugging it and cleaning. The ground wire coming from the windows is black, btw.

Moving back to the driver's door, the ground wire is spliced together with other grounds. The next connectors are separate for the driver's and pass windows, so if both windows don't work, I don't think the problem is there. The ground wires are all black it seems. I guess you could have an intermittent break in the harness as it goes through the flexing of the door on the way to the dash (i hope not, I had a break in a harness like that on a '67 Lincoln convert and it took me all day to track it down).

On the supply side, it looks like connector C317 (white, 10 pin) inside the drivers door up and a little back from the speaker routes power to both drivers and pass windows. Maybe it's dirty. Again, if both windows (you have a 2 door, right?) don't work, there's only a few common connectors upstream.

[Nospeed]

I assume that both passenger and driver's windows do not work when this happens. Everything else works ok, though? So it isn't the ground connector screw, because other stuff goes there. The first connector upstream from the ground screw is a 14 pin orange one on the dash fuse box (I have an '89, so your specs may be different). You might try unplugging it and cleaning. The ground wire coming from the windows is black, btw.
Moving back to the driver's door, the ground wire is spliced together with other grounds. The next connectors are separate for the driver's and pass windows, so if both windows don't work, I don't think the problem is there. The ground wires are all black it seems. I guess you could have an intermittent break in the harness as it goes through the flexing of the door on the way to the dash (i hope not, I had a break in a harness like that on a '67 Lincoln convert and it took me all day to track it down).
On the supply side, it looks like connector C317 (white, 10 pin) inside the drivers door up and a little back from the speaker routes power to both drivers and pass windows. Maybe it's dirty. Again, if both windows (you have a 2 door, right?) don't work, there's only a few common connectors upstream.

yeah, both windows dont work when this happens (i have a 87 hatch). i dont think i broke wires when i swapped doors, but i dunno. ill check the wires tomorow after work, and see if i can clean all the connections out. what do you suggest for that? just compressed air? ill look at the orange harness as well.



The regulator gets stuck from time to time. Since ours is mechanical cross bar rather than the gay/popularly used cable mechanism, we need to lube the joints. So take it apart. spray some silicone/greece on it and see if it works. Spraying silicone spray lubricant on the tracts of the window edges do help a lot if you ask me. the felt guides tend to get gunked up with dust and whatnot creating more friction between the glass and the guides.

i can see how this is a problem. yet my drivers door is hooked up, but for some reason the window just wont go up or down (i dont think the motor is hooked up right), it just moves freely. so you can hear the motor running, but nothing happens. the passenger door works just fine.

so i've reverted to the civic until i can fix the accord. its just sitting, and im pissed.

[w261w261]

There's an electrical connection spray cleaner they sell at Home Depot. It's not as good as the old ones before the EPA got busy, but it will clean off oxidation etc pretty well.

[Blkblurr]

Sounds like a mechanical problem with one (the one that runs but nothing happens) and an electrical problem with the other maybe a borken wire.