why only MT?

[Whistler225]

I was looking at this Weber conversion kit as a possibility for my Accord, but the description specifies manual transmission. Can anyone think why this might be? I would think it should work on either.....

http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/Dataresults3.asp?Kit_Nbr=K728&Model=ACCORD

it looks like a pretty good deal. I would love to pull all my vacuum lines out of the damned car (well, the ones that can be removed with this mod anyway), but can't find a complete conversion kit anywhere else that says it's for 3G's......

[A20A1]

It has to do with the TV cable on the auto cars... thats it.

The kit doesn't come ready with a TV linkage so they can't list it for auto cars or they'll get in trouble and get complaints when the owner installs the carb and doesn't know what they are doing.

you use the same kit... just buy it anyways. I have the how to ffor the auto cable somewhere.

[Whistler225]

hrmmmm....I could have sworn my tv cable went to my pedal anyway....I'll have to look again. Your Howto was what made me go looking anyway....I figure instead of struggling against my stock carb it might be worthwhile to just put in the weber.
Just went out and looked, and my tv cable indeed goes through the firewall next to the throttle cable, so no worries there.

Now you mentioned somehting in the howto about if using the 32/36 you need to either port the plenum or fill in the gap (which I assume is the gap created at the top of the divider by the addition of the adapter plate). Is this totally necessary? in the pics you posted it looks like the adapter plate is divided as well....or am I looking at it wrong? Since I don't weld, I would probably end up having to port the manifold....how difficult is this to do? do you simply put a hole in the dividing plenum?

[A20A1]

well I mentioned filling in the gap and continuing the wall heigt so it completly seperates the primary and secondary barrels all the way to the base of the carb.

It's not necessary but if you're keeping the wall you might as well keep it intact... it's not uncommon to have a plenum wall not reach the base of the carb, but I think it will help in our case not to leave any gap.

I got rid of the divider because I intended to run a 38 or 4bbl, the 32/36 was temporary. The 38 is synchronous so a divided plenum isn't doing the same as with a progressive carb like the 32/36

you don't need to know how to weld... you might try alumaloy. and rig up a tiny mold then fill the mold with the alumaloy and get a flat file to smooth down the surface. A good file if used right can do a good job of surfacing your adapterplates. The plates that come in the kit should be resurfaced to make sure they are all flat, it also keeps the base of the carb from getting warped when sitting on warped plates.

[Whistler225]

so I could remove the plenum without doing any harm to the way it runs, correct? when the secondary kicks in it would simply add it's cfm to the mixture already going into the intake, on both sides....I can't weld (never been taught how), so removing the wall or leaving it the way it is would be my only two options.

Could the gap be filled any other way, say screwed or riveted sheet and some steel putty?

[A20A1]

alumaloy isn't welding really, it's just a propane torch. I think there is a how to on alumaloys site... it's super simple and it much nicer when you want to file it down. you could use metal putty but I would trust the alumaloy more. I dunno if the metal putty would come loose and they get sucked into the motor. I did test the metal putty though (quick Steel) and it does seem to stick okay to the intake manifold, just make sure you wire brush and maybe even rough sand some areas to get a good rough clean surface to bond to.

[Whistler225]

hrmmmm....might try the alumalloy thing....now I do have soldering experience....maybe that will help me learn how to use the allumalloy. I want to do this right...I'd like to be able to eliminate the carb and vacuum as potential problems with this car.

rig up a tiny mold....what did you use to make your mold out of? You would need something you could bend up the sides to contain the alumaloy I assume. And obviously it would need to be roughly the same length as the original divider....sorry just thinking out loud.

[A20A1]

Another reason for the alumaloy is that you can seal your adapterplates and never have to worry about them coming apart. You'll have to alumaloy one plate at a time and resurface and prep as you go.

The adapter plates leaking really ruins the performance and gets in the way of selecting the right jets for the weber.


If you want to wait a while I can get an adapter plate and do all the work for you... it'll probably be a long wait though.

[Whistler225]

wow....are the adapter plates they send out that warped? or do they just have mold edges left on them....

[Whistler225]

ah.....how long are you talking? It might be better if I can let someone who knows what the hell they're doing set up the adapter. (i.e. you rather than me)

[Whistler225]

I also noticed the kit I'm looking at comes with the throttle linkage plate....it shouldn't need to be modified like in your how-to I assume. If I bought the kit and sent you the adapter, could you set it up and ship it back to me? I'd obviously pay for shipping both ways.

[Whistler225]

The adapter plates leaking really ruins the performance and gets in the way of selecting the right jets for the weber.

I just noticed this part of your post....are you saying the carb doesn't come with jets, or are you saying it's difficult to tune them when the plates leak? I figured the carb would come basically ready to go....

btw, I didn't mention it, but naturally I would also be willing to pay you for your work if you are willing to work the adapter plates for me....I dunno what kind of time is involved in this, but I trust you not to stiff me....let me know what you think is fair.

[A20A1]

the carb comes with jets but you may want to change them around some... mostly the idle jets, and accel pump jet needs to be changed. Unless you're leaning up top then you may want to mess with the main jets.

Well let me get back to you on how things will work out. I'll be gone for about a month or 2 cause I'm headed for austrlia. But after that I'll have time.

If you read my uhm buyer seller rating in the market place you find that I usually ship out something extra. :)

[Whistler225]

sounds good.....I haven't looked at your marketplace feedback yet, but by the time you read this, I probably will have....

So let me know when you have the time to work on it....till then I think I've isolated some of my problem. I checked my coolant level today and added about half a gallon....now the car seems to idle ok at stops. I'll still be looking to do the conversion though.

[Whistler225]

wow....well, the only thing I found was someone said you sent them a free carb with their adapter plate....is that what you were talking about? If so....what you must have a bunch sitting around or something huh? So what is the typical fee you get for this sort of thing?
Hey have fun is Aus....I've always wanted to see it. Will you be around here at all, or will you not have access? Anyway, I'll wait to hear from you on the carb thing. You can email me through my profile or directly at [email protected]
Thanks
Dan

[shepherd79]

I have carbed maniford that i ported the carb pleanum to fit bigger carb.
I bored out to fit 350 cfm holley carb, but it will work with weber.
Let me know if you want. I just have it sitting and doing nothing.
I will sell it to you dirt cheap.

[A20A1]

Awe shep. :) I was trying to get him to send me the adapter plates so i'd have an excuse to buy a lot of alumoloy for his, mine, and my future projets.

I think he wanted to keep the dividing wall, I was offering to use the alumaloy to fill in the gap left in the wall by the adapter plates.

I have the stock manifold so all I need really is the adapterplate and the alumaloy and I can get to work.

Anyways I guess this gives you more options.

[A20A1]

Shep... how about we send Lostforawhile our holley 2bbl 4bbl manifolds and he can do an intake manifold shootout. ;)

I can give you some money if he doesn't want to buy it from you.

[Whistler225]

I do want to keep the dividing wall. I'm willing to wait awhile to get it....so no worries A20A1....but thanks for the offer there Shep.

[Whistler225]

Shep... how about we send Lostforawhile our holley 2bbl 4bbl manifolds and he can do an intake manifold shootout. ;)
aw....does that mean you aren't going to do the job for me?

Edit: oops, didn't read closely enough lol

[shepherd79]

oh i see what he wants to do.
I think you will be alright ifyou just convert to weber, but i can assure you that later on you will be thinking about bigger carb and more power.
Mike if you know anyone who wants mani let me know.
I have no use for it and i hate to see it to go to waist. i put a lot if time into porting. I still have the carb adapter plate for the holley that can be made to work with the mani.

[Whistler225]

I dunno....it's possible at some point down the road, but first I gotta get it running right, and get rid of the cancer it has here and there. I bought it to be a work commuter, so it'll be a little while before I go looking to boost performance by much and kill my gas mileage....

[shepherd79]

well, weber will make life easier but i am not sure if you will keep the same gas mileage. You probably will have to retune after you get it going. This way you lean lean it out and make it use less gas.
you can also remove all the vacuum lines with stock carb and gain perfomrance and mileage.
If you go weber, you should know that in some states that have visual inspection, you will fail the inspection. Also, emission test may be a problem unless you tune the carb properly.

[Whistler225]

luckily, in NH my car is too old for emissions testing, and the guy that does my inspections is kind of a friend of the family, so he doesn't do much beyone the basics....lights, horn, gaping rust holes and the like, so I'm not too worried about that....And yeah the main reason I'm going with the weber is to get rid of the vacuum stuff....my vacuum circuits are rusted (the hard lines) and the hoses are all hard, and hell if I know about my mainfold gasket until I get the carb off....I do know the idle is pretty inconsistent, and it's getting old. I figure the simpler I can make the fuel system, the better. I can do basic carb work, but the stock one is over my head as far as all the crap connected to it.