Need help with motor mounts

[carotman]

Well, Since I've put my Edelbrock Manifold. The motor mounts have been a pain.

I had to get rid of the stock top torque mounts. As a result, the engine moves quite a bit in the enginebay.... to the point the distributor bracket hits the hood.

I already have eurethane in all 3 remaining mounts but it doesn't seem to be enough. Maybe the fact that the rear mount doesn't move anymore makes more stress on the front mount and allows the engine to be lifted up instead of pivoting in the enginebay.

I would really hate to get rid of this manifold since it gives a nice powerband :D. I also busted the driver side axle today. I don't know if it's related to the mount but it sure doesn't help.

I was wondering if you guys had any thoughts on this. Maybe I could keep the front eurethane mount and reinstall a stock rear mount?

Thanks for your help.

[Kabuki]

Is the rear mount just welded? Or is it poly? Is there no way to make a curved upper mount to get it around whatever is in the way?

[carotman]

The rear is Poly.

I guess I'll haveto fabricate a rear upper torque mount in a curved fashion. The thing is, the stock mount sits level with the ground so the force applied to it tries to compress the rod on the firewall, which is impossible. If it's made at an angle, the force wouldn't be as direct and could lead to problems. I'll see what I can do.

Oh, BTW, the PK2/PH3 hybrid improved performance. I totally smoked a B16A civic EG this morning (just before the Axle busted). I waited until he was in Vtec and slammed it. We were head to head but I was puling steady in front of him :D

I'll get pictures of the busted axle. Not pretty.

I noticed that the driver side Accord axle is just 1cm longer that the 3rd gen Prelude one. With a lowered car, I don't see why I couldn't just use the Prelude one instead of fabricating a custom axle. They are close enough I think. 496mm for the prelude and 506mm for the Accord

[gfrg88]

can you give us any more info on that PK2/PH3 you put on :deal:

[carotman]

I'll gefinetly try to get more info on this chip.

For the motor mounts. I think that the eurethane in the front mount might have come apart from the metal shell. Since the engine sits on the mount, it makes it impossible to detect unless you pull the mount out. I'll get that sucker out and check everything.

[carotman]

Well, my theory proved right. The front mount is busted alright. THis caused the engine to hit the underside of the hood.

I'll have no choice but to make a custom mount for the front or try to find a way to use a torque rod in the rear. I could go with a solid front mount but the vibrations would just kill me

[gfrg88]

johny o is selling solid motor mounts, front and back, you could try those :)

[carotman]

Hmmmm, interesting

[88LXi68]

vibrations = shitty

[smufguy]

Why dont you find a way to move the mount down or lower? It coes off the tranny, so fabricating it to hook up to the rear cross member would be an alternative.

[A20A1]

It should be about as linear as if you had a straight pipe to the firewall, but it gives you that open space... also it isn't placing it lower so you have the same amount of leverage at the same angle/direction as the stock brace.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b351/Wendy_girl/ybone.png

[carotman]

Hooking it up to the Xmember might be an idea. I was thinking exactly about something like A20A1 posted. However, the bracket that bolts to the transmission also had to be removed, this is what interfered with the TB. It would have to be really close to the engine and I'm not sure if there's enough space. I'll have to fabricate a bracket and that Y-Bone A20A1 posted. I'll keep it as a template and write your name on it :p

Solid mounts would sure make alot of vibrations. I guess I'll just install a B18B intake maifold while I work something out. I want to drive the car so baaaaadly :D It's been stored all winter.

[A20A1]

hrm, I'm having a thought... I'm going to go outside and fiddle with my car while it's still with me.

[carotman]

Lol, that's the spirit!

I guess I'll get the welder out sooner than I thought. If I can get rid of that problem, I might not have to remove that wonderful manifold

[A20A1]

There are a few bolt size holes in the bracket that brackets the brace... buh buh buh beee :lol:

anyways I just flipped around the brackets. It's a little off center and I'm not sure if it will hit something under the manifold... but at least it brings you closer to the firewall and is pretty low profile. maybe you can weld to it... but you need to consider taking it off again. The way it is now some of the bracket hugs the aluminum parts of the trans and the only way to get them off is in peices.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b351/Wendy_girl/car%20stuffs/DSCN2366.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b351/Wendy_girl/car%20stuffs/DSCN2367.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b351/Wendy_girl/car%20stuffs/DSCN2369.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b351/Wendy_girl/car%20stuffs/DSCN2370.jpg

[A20A1]

The problem with it being so low is that it doesn't have the same amount of leverage I talked about in my fisrt post.

This should help but I dunno if you have room to make it... but I think it should bring the leverage back up and maybe you can fit in a mini dog bone.



http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b351/Wendy_girl/car%20stuffs/DSCN2370b.jpg

I left the offset in the bracket in the photochop... if you could get rid off the offset somehow it would make thinigs easier and stronger.
again here is the pic of the offset.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b351/Wendy_girl/car%20stuffs/DSCN2367.jpg

[carotman]

Hmmm, I could weld something perpendicular to it and bring it to the height of the firewall mount, then use a mini torque rod.

Great idea!!!! I'm not sure if it would work but this is worth investigating for sure.

(edit, you were faster to reply than me hehe)


One of the brackets is curved. Maybe I could use 2 traight brackets, then use 2 curved ones that I would cut and weld to the ctraight ones. This should bring the bracket up and straight in front of the firewall.

I'll have to check if I have enough Room for that tough.

http://carotman.no-ip.com:8888/personal_site/my_accord/2005/photo4.jpg

It's pretty cramped up in there.

[carotman]

I thought about modding the front mount to a cylindrical type on the X-Member and a box type on the Engine.

This would be the engine bracket:

http://www.3sxperformance.com/images/stock-motor-mount-bracket-md153738-02-300.jpg

And something like this for the X-Member mount
http://images.google.ca/url?q=http://www.mirage-performance.com/sonata/EngineMounts/Bolts003.jpg

I think this would be easier to do than mess with the rear bone mount and will provide better performance as well.

In fact, every 3G Accord could use such a mount :D


Edit:

In fact, It would be easier to weld the cylinder to the metal front bracket that bolts on the engine. There is a bent iron type bracket that would be easy to weld on. Then, the box bracket could be bolted to the X-Member without trouble...

Hell, a rear VW mount could even be bolted to thsi bracket...

http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/A700026230GER.JPG

[gfrg88]

hmmm, i like that idea carotman posted above :thumbup:

[carotman]

Well, I was looking at the 94-97 Accord front mount, it looks like a viable solution with minimal modifications.

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/catimgs/13sv20_j26.gif

Or the 98-2002 that seem similar too but the bracket goes further to the front.

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/catimgs/13s820_j25.gif

I got to get my hands on those and compare....

These mounts are a bit soft and would need to be filled with window weld for sure.


Edit:

The 3rd gen Prelude mount seems to be quite close to what I want... The bracket seems a bit long (due to the engine tilt) but the actual X-Member mount looks like it would be fine.

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/catimgs/13sf10_j31.gif

[carotman]

Well, I installed my spare B18B manifold that I had here. It doesn't clear the DC sports strut bar.

I'll go back to stock I guess.

[carotman]

Well, I found an easier solution....

http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=52510

This rocks!