mhopton
06-25-2006, 03:57 PM
89 Accord LX Auto - 156k - original cv's.
While replacing a piece of the brake system's flex line on Friday afternoon, I noticed a fairly recent tear in the CV Boot on the passenger front. The grease was fairly gunky, so it had probably been torn for awhile but was not yet clicking or making noise.
After reading this thread:
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28515
I decided to give it a go. I'm a fairly o.k. mechanic but I like to have good instructions to work with, so I studied the above thread and the haynes manual before deciding to give it a go myself. I figured it'd be a hell of a lot easier to do the whole axle with both new boots than to try and do just a boot, so I picked up a reman axle at NApa, a new bag o' gloves, some tranny fluid, got a big ole cup of coffee, some good tunes and went to work this morning.
Everything was fine til it came time to "pop" the lower ball joint loose. I had a 4" gear puller but all that did was bend and contort even after soaking in WD40 for an hour. So I skipped that step and went straight to the lower fork bolt, which popped right out with no problem. I did unweight the joint by raising the jack up under the disc and used a phillips head screw driver to push the bolt all the way through.
After getting a ball joint tool (looks like a tapered tuning fork), the ball joint separated in two whacks with a hammer. From there I lifted it up out of the lower arm, following the directions in the above thread and swung the knuckle out of the way.
With a large flat blade screw driver, the axle popped right out and the new one went right back in and everything bolted back up in 30 minutes. Even spending an hour on the balljoint before using the right tool, it only took 3 hours. When the other side goes, it'll be an hour and a half at most.
Next: Upper and lower balljoints and tie rod ends....
thanks to whoever you are that wrote that thread. the pics were great! If you are wondering whether you can do this, I guarantee that you can!!
Mike
While replacing a piece of the brake system's flex line on Friday afternoon, I noticed a fairly recent tear in the CV Boot on the passenger front. The grease was fairly gunky, so it had probably been torn for awhile but was not yet clicking or making noise.
After reading this thread:
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28515
I decided to give it a go. I'm a fairly o.k. mechanic but I like to have good instructions to work with, so I studied the above thread and the haynes manual before deciding to give it a go myself. I figured it'd be a hell of a lot easier to do the whole axle with both new boots than to try and do just a boot, so I picked up a reman axle at NApa, a new bag o' gloves, some tranny fluid, got a big ole cup of coffee, some good tunes and went to work this morning.
Everything was fine til it came time to "pop" the lower ball joint loose. I had a 4" gear puller but all that did was bend and contort even after soaking in WD40 for an hour. So I skipped that step and went straight to the lower fork bolt, which popped right out with no problem. I did unweight the joint by raising the jack up under the disc and used a phillips head screw driver to push the bolt all the way through.
After getting a ball joint tool (looks like a tapered tuning fork), the ball joint separated in two whacks with a hammer. From there I lifted it up out of the lower arm, following the directions in the above thread and swung the knuckle out of the way.
With a large flat blade screw driver, the axle popped right out and the new one went right back in and everything bolted back up in 30 minutes. Even spending an hour on the balljoint before using the right tool, it only took 3 hours. When the other side goes, it'll be an hour and a half at most.
Next: Upper and lower balljoints and tie rod ends....
thanks to whoever you are that wrote that thread. the pics were great! If you are wondering whether you can do this, I guarantee that you can!!
Mike